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Found 7 results

  1. Hello Forum, I've got a 2021 ZS212 with the 409hp engine. All of the sudden when Idling out of the marina the forward gear popped out and wouldn't go back in. Reverse is no problem. If I switch off the engine and then immediately back on, the forward gear would once engage for a few seconds before it pops out again. The longer I leave the engine off before switching back the longer the forward gear would engage before popping out. Reversing works always. Don't have any strange noises from the transmission, fluid levels for transmission and v drive are fine. Anybody got an idea?
  2. Hello Forum, I've got a 2021 boat with a 409hp engine. All of the sudden when Idling out of the marina the forward gear popped out and wouldn't go back in. Reverse is no problem. If I switch off the engine and then immediately back on, the forward gear would once engage for a few seconds before it pops out again. The longer I leave the engine off before switching back the longer the forward gear would engage before popping out. Reversing works always. Don't have any strange noises from the transmission, fluid levels for transmission and v drive are fine. Anybody got an idea?
  3. Hey guys, I have a 2000 centurion eclipse v drive with the Walter v drive. I have to replace the bushings on my strut and am curious, can I remove the v drive and remove the prop shaft through the inside of the boat instead of going through the pain of removing the coupler and reinstalling the coupler. It appears if I remove the v drive I should have plenty of room to clear the shaft inside
  4. So it appears that I have developed an oil leak somewhere on my V-drive. It's difficult to pinpoint where exactly it is coming from. I believe, and my fingers are crossed that it is coming from the pan seal. Actually, it'd be awesome if it were just a loose drain bolt or something, but I'm being slightly more realistic. There has not been any issues with this boat for the previous 4 years that I've owned it. I believe the issue may have started because of sitting water in the bilge in the fall may have deteriorated the seal. My driveway slopes down to the street so the boat sits bow down. Anyway, I've searched high and low for a thread on replacing this seal, but have had no luck. After talking with Duramatt, he said a few fellow crew members have had similar issues. Any knowledge on this issue would be greatly appreciated. If it's not the pan seal... how much of a PITA is it to remove the V-drive? Does it actually need to be removed to fix the seal!?
  5. I know it's not brand new, 1998, but it has a small wake plate and some aftermarket bags. Even one in the front footwell, which I'm planning on moving into the left ski locker area. Pics here: http://web.me.com/mark_armstrong/Site/Centurian.html So why this post? The RADIO SUCKS, aka, non existent, and as you can see, NO TOWER SPEAKERS!!!! Sold my Larson I/O for this boat, so we can wakesurf, but I need audio suggestions and help that fits our budget. Here is my initial thoughts, spend a "small" amount of money to: - Put a new HU in, preferably with wireless remote. Pyle fits the budget... maybe upgrade next year. - Put in an old car AMP that I have had since pulled out of my last car (see attached), it's an ALPINE V12, 4/3/2 channel - Buy some Wetsounds or Polk tower cans, I found them used on craigslist for around $300. - I have an old 12inch sub I was planning on installing in the driver footwell. About the only place. So my question to you audio folks, is this a good initial set up? We are trying to spend LESS THAN $1,000 bucks, prefer to spend less than 600 if possible. I can wire and solder, so I think I have that covered, and I can pay attention to directions. I'm most likely going to have to drill the tower to run wires. What I am confused about, is how to wire the 4 existing speakers in the boat WITH tower speakers. Will the amp be enough? I am not trying to wake the neighbors just have enough sound for the wakesurfer and boat occupants. I have been searching for diagrams on line, but nothing that looks easy yet. I saw some "tower wiring" kits online, but 2 speakers at 4 ohms or 4 speakers at 2 ohms. Probably want to stick to at least 4 ohms, right? The small Bimini top pretty much is in the way of any drop down cans, so will I have to mount them on top and look stupid? So with those thoughts in mind, should I take on this job myself or just have a pro do it? What concerns me is that you can hear the "pump switch" and pumps whinning through the speakers, so apparently someone has a few wires crossed on the boat. GRRRRRR Any suggestions is appreciated and I have thick skin, so you won't offend me if all my ideas are crap! happy surfin' Mancho
  6. Just pulled the C4 out of winter storage and the minute I engage the prop it starts to squeel. I greased the fitting and checked the water supply which seems a bit weak. Any ideas?
  7. We just purchased a 2001 Eclipse V drive with air warrior package. So, now that I've gotten into the inside of the boat and found some things out, I really want to add some weight to the ridiculous 250 lb center ballast tank. I've been reading a lot of posts on here and other sites, checked out wavemakers and I'm trying to figure out the best and simplest system that I can convert my current set up to. Currently it just has the stock, center hard tank = 25 lbs, which to be honest makes little to zero difference in the wake size. There are 2 stock Atwater 750A pumps with 1" tubing, one for filling and one for draining. If anyone is familiar with these boats and this stock set up and has already added a set up, please direct me in the right direction. Here is what direction I am currently headed in: Leave the stock 250# hard tank - I'm thinking of filling it, capping it off and leaving it that way - disconnect the pump and just forget about it. Add 2 400 lb sacks in the back, one on each side of the V-drive in the lockers. Add 650 lb sack in the front bow. Run them with 2 pumps. Not sure if I should change the pumps, add pumps or? Connect it all with the same intake that's already there, and the same venting set and everything. This will give me 1700 lbs total. I can always add another 500 lb sac on the floor, drivers side for surfing. I surf goofy footed. Im okay with them filling in 15-20 minutes, but would like it to be faster if its not going to cost me too much. Any ideas? Anyone done this already with this boat? It already has the switch on the dash and the manual open/close valve mounted just under the walk thru.
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