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Found 5 results

  1. Hello everyone We took out the new boat on Tuesday and wanted to test out the wake surfing capabilities of the boat. We filled all the ballast bags and when we tried to go we noticed we could not get over 3300 RPM's and could not get over 10mph. Also, I see the prop on the boat is an acme 537, which is 13.5 x 16 x 1 1/8. We reset all of the settings on the mercmonitor and went back and changed things and still only topping out at 3300 RPMS. If we have all the ballast empty then we can hit 5000 RPM around 37 mph. When we were on the test drive we had the same amount of people in our boat a didn't have any issues, but when we got it home we had to move everyone to the front of the boat to even get it close to 10mph. Would a new prop help with the RPM issue? Thank you for any help possible!
  2. My 2005 C4 just turned over 550 hours and I had to recently replace the computer. Bought the boat with 200 hours and have been keeping up with all the maintenance. Replaced the belt, bearings, impeller (every 100 hours), water pump, and alternator in the last 4 years and now the computer died. She runs great but now I'm thinking of stepping into something newer if I can consistently expect major items to begin to fail or need work. Wanted to know how many hours I could expect out of a motor, transmission, and vDrive before I had to start planning for larger issues. I grew up on Mastercraft's back in the 70's and 80's and could usually get ~ 1000 hours out of them before major engine work became necessary and I've seen posts that tell me some folks are getting as many as 2000 hours out of a motor. Just trying to gauge where I am in the cost cycle at this point. Thanks - J
  3. This has been the year of "extended maintenance" for my 2005 Avy. The real trouble started with a stuck fuel injector earlier this year. I limped the boat back to the dock (20 minutes to go ~3 miles) with white smoke and un-burnt fuel coming from the exhaust. The computer was throwing a injector group #2 stuck open error. I replaced all of the injectors, inline fuel filter and water separator. I also changed the oil and oil filter because the oil had 2 quarts of fuel in it. The next time I took the boat out, the boat started and 2-3 seconds later the engine died. The only way the boat would start was to crack open the throttle but once it started and warmed up it ran but would run rough at idle. After doing some research I replaced the IAC ( and the muffler that goes with it. The muffler was clogged up before I replaced it. Since then the boat would start with some hesitation but it would run very rich and unstable at idle. Anything above idle the boat runs great. I have hooked up the Rinda computer and tried doing a IAC test. The RPM does not change when I try to open and close the valve. (RPM bounces around between 580-650) I have also tried cycling the valve without the engine running and the rod does not move. However, the valve will make a buzzing noise around +30%. I put the old valve back on and it acts just like the new one. I have bought 2 IACs and between the old one and the 2 new ones they all act the same. The 2 new valves are a Standard AC423 and a BWD 50558. This is what the Mercruiser 862998 cross referenced to. Interestingly enough after running around 2000 RPM for 15 minutes or so the IAC Duty Cycle reads ~30% when I first go back to idle. The boat runs pretty good here. However, the longer I sit at idle the more the IAC Duty Cycle will creep back to 99.9% and the boat will run rougher and rougher with a strong smell of gas and black exhaust. Does anyone have any experience with trouble shooting an IAC? Shouldn't the Duty cycle sit a close to 30%? Shouldn't you be able to move the IAC with the Rinda back to a point where the engine pretty much starves of air at ~-90%? I'm getting a bit concerned that I'm looking at a new ECM...Any thoughts on where to go from here? I have already checked the resistance of the valves (12.5 ohms). I also checked the resistance back to the ECM and that checked out. The ECM will send a warning signal (2 beeps) only when the IAC is disconnected. The harness is reading battery voltage (12.4 Volts) with the engine off.
  4. I have a 2016 FS33 and I have had 2 fuses fail on the start relay, not a big deal at all but I am wondering if anyone else has seen this issue. Its a 20AMP Bussman fuse
  5. 2012 Enzo - Ok - this just happened yesterday. The MPH and RPM indicators (analog) will pop up on start, then fall all the way to below zero and don't function. Also the Oil Pressure and Water Temp (I think this was the other gauge) on the display don't show any measurements (these are the two vertical "bar graphs" on the display). PLUS my ballast tanks won't fill... I've had my MPH gauge not function in past, but it was the large breaker just above the front battery, however this didn't resolve issue this time. I've checked the breakers under the helm as well as above the batteries - any other location these might be in? I did replace both batteries this past week, but the boat was working just fine since then (just one day). Any ideas??
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