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  1. With the season right around the corner, (and a nice bump from the Tax man) I am getting ready to put a new stereo in the boat. Attached is what I think is a good wiring diagram, but would like some opinions. First of all, this wiring diagram is trying to accomplish two things: 1. Wire up some more battery power for my new stereo integrating the Blue Sea add-a-battery and (2) add some relays so that my ballast pumps are more reliable. The one thing that I know this diagram is missing is a shore charger. Unfortunately due to the boat storage situation I do not have access to power, however the boat gets used quite frequently. (2 or so times during the week and all weekend during the summer) Also getting out of our wake zone to get to a place to surf takes about 20 minutes. I only mention this because it allows time to charge, however I don't know how effective 1500 rpms is in charging. 1. Right now the stereo is (2) Class D 700 watt amps and a head unit. No EQ or other equipment. One amp powers the Rev 10's, the other does (4) in boats and a sub. I am considering adding a 3rd amp to power (2) additional in boats, so the additional amp will be small, however that will probably happen next year. I drew in the 3 amps to make sure I had enough connector space in my distribution blocks for the future. Right now I do not have any batteries. (I had one Group 24 last season that barely made it to the end) Battery is located under the observer seat with (2) fatty wires running from the engine. I am planning on purchasing (2) or (3) non AGM batteries. I am going with non AGM because I can not keep them properly charged without a shore charger and I figure that for the cost difference, I can just purchase new batteries next year if needed. Stereo will be played will we hang out and lounge for 2-3 hours. I would say at 1/4 volume. Not looking to be "that guy" on the lake. As I mentioned above, our hang out spot is usually a good 20 minutes of WOT away from our wake zone which is another 20 minutes at idle. Plenty of time to charge. Not sure if I even need the 3 batteries, but figured I would draw it in. It would be (2) batteries in parallel for the stereo and other goodies and (1) for starting/helm stuff. The head unit will be wired to a SPST switch using power and ground from the amp. In reading some other forums, I came across this diagram which suggest that wiring the head unit this way is a good way to eliminate any noise in the system. See link for the thread. http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=727021 2. The rest of the diagram addresses adding some relays for my ballast pumps. I have two johnson pumps. Basically one for the port and one for the starboard. Last year, with only on battery I was not able to run both pumps at one time. As it was with one pump running, I was barely pulling enough voltage for my Perfect Pass to stay on. I would usually have to put it in neutral and put some RPMs behind it. Even then if I switched on the second pump, the voltage gauge would show a severe hit and the perfect pass would lose power temporarily, and the second pump wouldn't run. On early morning surf runs before work, 2 pumps is a must to get one side filled while the other is emptying. To solve this I was planning on running a 4 or 8 gauge cable from up front (off the Blue Sea Safety Hub 150 http://bluesea.com/viewresource/1446 that is being installed for the stereo) to the smaller Blue Sea Safety Hub 100 http://bluesea.com/productline/overview/416 will be near the motor, close to where my pumps are so I don't have to make such a long run with wires from the pump. The safety hub 100 has (3) lugs. I plan on using one for each of the pumps and the third will be perfect for a shower install later in the summer to keep us surfing on into the winter. Grounds for the relay will go to a buss bar that comes off the negative of the starter. Couple of other questions I had while drawing up this diagram: 1. Is it okay to leave the helm buss hooked up as is? Meaning, I don't need to switch the wiring of that to the stereo side since it will only be running lights, gauges, etc. 2. Should I consider moving my Perfect Pass wiring to the House or Stereo Side? 3. Did I overdo it on the gauge of wire since I have somewhat short runs? Sorry for being so long winded. In doing all this research it seems like there are a million ways to hook this stuff up. Hopefully the attached diagram makes sense. I am totally open to any and all suggestions. Enzo Power Wiring Diagram_v1_03272012.pdf
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