TexP51

JMB - Really appreciate you taking the time to respond. That sounds like really the only successful way to do the repair is in using marine HDPE, compared to replacing with plywood again. Couple questions - 1) Did you use just a hardware grade SS piano hinge, or did you find a source for a marine grade hinge? I saw where West Marine use to have some marine grade hinges listed, but wondering if there any real difference. 2) Did you use white HDPE? Thinking that will be better than the black for reducing reflective surface heat, even with vynal upholstery covering it. 3) For your engine cover did you drill completely through the HDPE and that work okay using flush screws under the upholstery, or just use wood screws to secure the hinges to the cover? Appreciate any feedback. - TexP51

2002 Centurion Elite V-Drive C4 She’s twenty years old and running great. On back of boat has large sun deck area with center manual engine cover, and on left and right the sun decks open as storage lockers using gas lifts. On one side the plywood has rotted and piano hinge has pulled out. Repaired with SS screw multiple times. But not much to work with anymore. Would like to just replace all the deck covers back there. Couple of questions to the group: 1) Anyone have experience replacing entire deck cover, or do most people just take it to a trim shop? 2) Does anyone have deck templates for DIY they’d be willing to share? 3) Is there a better material than marine-grade plywood these days?

Thought I’d give a product review for some of the ‘seasoned’ Centurion boats. I have a 2002 Elite V C4 Air Warrior that was recently purchased over in FLA. On the drive from FLA to TX to get her home the Tach bezel cracked. If you’ve been on I-10 you’ll understand! The boat had the factory Faria gauges. Playing around in the dash I found the instrument harness had seen several radio upgrades and was pulled up tight in places with zip ties. As I moved my hand inside in the IP the tach bezel on the outside broke completely off. Old plastic and too much force. The Gaige’s are mounted through the front of the Instument panel and use a squash ring on each gauge to hold in place, so all the force is on the outer ring. Well mine broke and the tach gauge fell into its hole into the IP. All of my Elite’ power went through through the tach connection. Faria has a lifetime warranty for the original owner of A Centurion boat, but they didn’t respond to my email inquiries. I Just ordered a replacement Faria white gauge, giving up on finding a Centurion logo with the chrome bezel, and since the speedos were acting up, went ahead and ordered matching GPS speedos that do not used the paddle wheel, and now have internal GPS antenna. Depth gauge was dead so I replaced it as well. On Amazon the tach was $120 w/ Hobbs meter, and each speedo was $79, the Faria depth sounder was $140 for a in-hull system. The euro white worked out well for my taste, but the Chesapeake has chrome trim. If you prefer that., Don’t be in a hurry as it does take time figuring out the leads. Generally you could just hook a replacement exactly as the old one, but I had to remove the wiring blindly in the Elite IP configuration, and figure out wiring afterwards. Also got rid of a few harnesses that were in the IP, as in 2002 you got all harnesses for the various options whether they were installed or not. Anyway, the GPS Faria speedos (F33147) are especially interesting as an option for us replacing older dash/IP setups. The speedos have internal gps antenna and just need ground, and a hot wire coming from the ign switch, and 3rd hot for illumination. Hope this helps somebody else.

From inside the boat open the engine hatch, and right side, rear, lower, of engine (in the bilge area) you will find your belt driven lake water pump. The spin on water/fuel separator is beside that water pump. $20 at West Marine to $12 on Amazon.

I put new cables on my dual battery setup this past winter on my 2002 Elite V when I added a dual battery maintainer. If you have the normal Perko marine battery Selector switch you should be able to easily get back on the water. The ground (-) / negative wiring you are seeing is that both batteries negative cables come to the same single point to ground probably on the engine. See if this diagram helps. https://www.perko.com/help_guides-wiring_a_battery_switch/

Never fun problems. Here are some diagnostic suggestions if you have a OE Mercruiser ignition & fuel system: W/ hard start and believe engine is in normal wear condition. Emphasize just hard start, as you didn’t mention rough running, backfire or spitting through carb. 1) Replace fuel filter. Test. Perfect world, also test fuel pressure to see if you have a weak fuel pump. 2) I’d suggest you unclip the distributor cap & check the 8 contacts inside for corrosion, & same for the rotor - if so replace. Test. 3) Next, pull one spark plug & look for 1 of 3 conditions on the electrode end - that will look like dusty brown, dark burnt charcoal or, oil covered. You want the dusty brown look. The dark charcoal look is rich mixture - that commonly could be caused by carb issues, or ignition timing is off. If oil covered replace all 8 plugs. Now need to TIME the electronic ignition. 4) If you can get the engine started you can time the engine. It has to be running @ 1800 rpm. Borrow/rent a Inductive timing light & adjust the distributor to set timing to proper position. Make sure to use #1 spark plug wire for the timing pickup. The timing Instruction for Mercruiser Thunderboly electronic ignition systems is on the web - make sure to follow instructions as you need to use a jumper wire to connect to the ‘ignition system timing lead’ (PUR/WHT wire) to a good engine ground (-). This locks the electronic ignition module into the “Base Timing Mode”. - using the timing light to look at the timing mark on the crank & line up w/ v-indicator on timing chain housing indicator. Loosen distributor to adjust & then lock it back down. Test. 5) If those don’t improve your hard start - find shop to overhaul carb, or buy rebuilt or new one. You can do OH yourself if comfortable, but recommend left to pros. Good luck.

Optima are solid today. You are in good shape. Anglers on my lake love the D31M blue tops, and Academy Sports now sells them - should make it easier if you have to get a warranty claim. Two batteries are hard enough, but Triple bats is going to be a stiff bill! I ran 54 hours last year, and probably another 25hrs floating w/ stereo on - 15” sub, 600w amp driving 6 interior speakers and 6 on the tower. To help I did change all our interior and running light bulbs over to led, and a more efficient whale bilge pump. With all that, I’m really hoping my battery maintainer stretches the life on our current bats for years to come.

Was trying to make the point to consider buying most CCA/Ah and Reserve Capacity that’s reasonably affordable. Option is to use a flooded with high CCA/Ah over just buying a gel or AGM. Flooded lead is good choice if you use your boat a lot, or have a maintainer. The Gel and AGM offerings store so much better than a flooded lead in boats not used much, and now here come the new marine lithiums - suppose to have 8-10 year life - but pricey. Referencing Optima was poor example, as they do have high CCA these days - but my opinion cost a bit more. Some folks run a starter and deep cycle combo battery setup. I like the newer dual-purpose batteries are cool. My 2002 elite-V had two ancient Interstate auto 24 series in it. I went old-school and replaced both w/ two Tractor Supply 24MS for less than $200 total. Each had like 1000CCA and decent reserve capacity, made sense for me as I have a nice dual-bank battery maintainer on board. I get it’s not everybody’s style, but worked for my budget.

Couple of other things regarding alternators - ther’re expensive no mater how you look at it, but spend a little more and do it right. The alternator no matter the size, creates a current field and ours have a built in regulator to hold voltage output to around 12.8-13.5 volts. Really low batteries might get it to near 14 v output, but from there everything is in your battery wiring gauge size, and your battery setup. Kinds like a hose and a holding tank. Battery (holding tank) can only accept current so fast based on wiring (hose). I find best practice is same type batteries, and highest cranking amps you can afford. While cranking amps equate to amp/hours, and that is like how deep/big your holding tank is. I keep it simple: - Recommend fresh or good condition batteries - New serpentine belt every other year - Suggest matched set batteries in highest CCA - whatever you prefer. I’d rather have lead/acid 850cca over blue top 650 gel for example. - Use good battery maintainer when you come in from the lake so your charge is full when you start out - 65a-85a alternator should be fine - Add another battery before going to crazy sized wiring and alternator

Something to check. The Mercruiser MPI is notorious for low voltage alternator output coming from slipping serpentine. The water pump takes quite a bit of leverage to turn over (not the engine’s Chevy water pump, but the mercruiser lake water pump) and worn belt or just a bit of slack will let the belt slip when it gets bilge water slapped on it at the lowest pulley (big harmonic balancer/crank at the bottom). Usually looks something like engine temp is a bit higher running hard, and voltage drops off at idle. Gotta be crazy tight. Might check that out.

Wow - That boat is slammed! I wouldn’t be comfortable with that at all. I’ve been flying for 35 years - and if I’ve learned anything,, engineers put thought and numbers into their designs, and pushing past that YOU become the test pilot. You asked if we’ve been able to surf, and the answer is yes, but not like the pros.. We.re taking baby steps from just extreme tubing. My 13 y/o takes his mom’s 10’ paddle board and surfs all the time with not much more than loading all our items in the LS rear locker and putting everyone in the rear and LS. Even then you start losing some rudder authority. Kids have fun. Just me, I want a safe boat that we can get back quickly if need be, were gonna try a suction wake maker this year.

Got around to installing our ‘02 Elite V’s battery charger/maintainer that it got for Xmas this weekend. I really didn’t have a great spot in our boat, so I built a mounting rack I thought someone else might be able to use. I installed in the left rear locker close to the batteries. The charger I got was a Cabela’s 2-bank 12a model - Pro Series Onboard 12. Cabela’s unit appears to have everything in a high-end charger without the Minn-Kota price, including all the steps for charming to maintaining, and able to charge 12a to a single battery if needed. It will handle flooded lead-acid & AGM batteries. They run $149-169 in the catalog, but we found all the Cabels units on sale in a store in Waco, TX, and this one was for $109. https://www.cabelas.com/product/CABELAS-PRO-SERIES-ON-BOARD-CHARGER/2416312.uts Required items: - Battery Maintainer 2-bank - Treated 2x10 cut to 28” length - Bunk Felt (Academy) - Spay paint/cheap - (2) 3” x 3/8”-18 SS Bolts, lock washers, nuts and oversized washers Tools: Saw, drill/bits, staple gun, scissors, hammer, tape measure Install: Measure location for board height in locker location Cut wood and take off extra 1/4” (for felt overlap when you wrap board) Paint board to help seal wood Fit wood into position - assist w/hammer Drill 1/4” pilot holes through fiberglass and wood - repeat w/ 3/8” bit Remove board and wrap in felt - fold felt like wrapping a package - staple Reinstall board - assist w/ hammer - make sure you have tight friction fit Install hardware Run wiring to batteries and install connections Mount Battery Maintainer to board Plug in -

Congrats, and enjoy! Nice looking boat. My 2002 Elite V C4 looks similar in hull design. The C4 was just a seating configuration that wrapped around - I think many, if not most, came with it. The 00-02 models could also have the Air Warrior pkg - still not sure beyond the graphics and paint what the difference actually was... Recommend replacing the bilge setup from the older style to the newer low profile Whale style That mounts lowering the transom bilge. Keep the water impeller replaced every 2 years and you should have a nice boat with those low hours. I attached a few pics of my boat for comparison. - Rob

Can anyone give some guidance on removing the bilge drain located in the bottom of the hull in front of the V-Drive? I don’t have a service manual and have searched and just haven’t seen any details on removing and replacing that drain location. Mine appears to have some type of compression rubber with a center threaded shaft. Mine appeared to be leaking last year and I’d like to replace it while I have the boat on a trailer versus on our boat lift. My hull is a ‘02 Elite V-Drive. I saw a newer 2013 Centurion Enzo and their front drain appeared to have been replaced with a t-handle garboard-style drain. Can I hear from a few of you that have replaced their drain before? Thx - rob

I will send a few pics this evening. At first glance when I saw it reminded me of a expandable freeze plug if anybody who remembers those. That’s a good idea thinking maybe the t-handle may have pulled off at some point in the past. I know it’s one of the lowest points in the hull, but mine appears to be leaking pretty good when the boat is in the water. She is in my shop for the little bit of winter we get and I’m planning to fix the few squawks over the weekends..

Check and make sure your belt is very tight. Later models have a single serpentine accessory drive belt, but your ‘82 I think had v belts. If they get wet they slip if not really tight. Other idea is the engine driven water pump could be a problem. Is water actually circulating through your block? The impeller most of us are talking about pulls lake water and provides it to the open cooling system, but the Chevy small block also has a mechanical engine mounted water pump that circulates the water in the engine cooling circuit. If either pump goes down you overheat.

Once you get it unsnapped you’ll find textured gel coat in the hull color. You will have several round access panels that are attached by ss screws for your fuel and ballast tank sending unit access.

Kinda have a strange situation that I'd like to hear some perspective on from members. Have a '02 Elite V C4 Air Warrior that we keep lifted in a boat house on our lake. Saturday I hit a submerged stump and put a small ding in the 3-blade prop, lots of vibration so idled in and pulled the boat out and trailered it a couple of hours home so I could exchange props on dry land. This boat never sits uncovered, and while home it sat outside the first night and wouldn't you know we had pretty torrential rains - like 4" Sunday nightt here in Houston. I came home from work on Monday and things were drying out but I noticed there was water on the driveway under boat. Looking closer I saw there was a steady drip - every 2-3 sec drip - coming from the prop shaft dripping water out from inside the boat. I looked in the bilge and found 5" of water standing in the engine and tranny bilge areas. I pulled the plug and ran the bilge to drain the water, and all is good. Got me to thinking I had never noticed a sizeable prop shaft leak, but then again maybe this is normal. Different perspective from water leaking into the hull, versus seeing water leaking out. One lesson- I need to pull the plug if/when I store this boat exposed to weather. Anyone have any thoughts if this is normal?

Get the weight out of the boat and watch your gauges - temp, oil pressure, and what angle the hull is at. Full boat - people, fuel, ballast, etc - at 12 mph the engine could be under a hard load depending on configuration- are you surfing, wakeboard, ski. - or might not. Are you burning lots of fuel? I’d suggest taking it out empty, configured for speed - and see how she does. Flat wake tabs, no surf devices, etc. baseline some performance. First hunch might be that they have wrong prop on boat since you just bought it. Keep everyone posted.

Agree w/ Tim. Direct Drive boats shouldn’t have the problem once you’re at ski speeds. Try w/ a spotter to go through and document wake size w/ various speed benchmarks. Wake should fade away at +18mph or so with no weight in boat. Your skier size will change things as more load on prop = more rooster tail. Aim thinking a good specific ski-use tow rope should have you beyond the rooster anyway.

Appreciate you taking the time to respond. After I read it I realize I pull the rear garboard brass bilge drain, but not the drain by the v-drive. Actually I never have needed to pull that drain. Wonder if the rubber seals have gone bad? Mine doesn’t look like a t-drain, but looks like a bolted-in mount. Is the normal t drain location just ahead of the v-drive?

This site could use a category for keeping these older boats maintained. I just posted a similar post regarding my 2002 Elite V and a drip. Here is what i’ve found - If you have the stock bilge pump (mounted on a block of wood in the rear of the bilge area most likely under the alternator) you’ll see even if it does a perfect job it would leave 2-3” of water in the bilge. The rear brass plug gets you down another inch - but you will have still have some standing water inside. My thought is it depends on how your boat sits on the trailer at what angle. You have several hull pass-thru points - could have a thru-hull transducer, strake mounts, rudder pinion seal, or prop shaft seal leaking. By the way, I went with one of the new Whale style bilges mounted lower than stock and really like the amount of water it removes - and to a lower level. That was one of the first things I replaced, along with upgrading all of the bilge and ballast hoses. Not a bad job. Hope this helped give you some ideas.

- Check brake fluid level in reservoir. - Check that the flex brake line quick-disconnect between reservoir and trailer is connected. - Cycle the surge brake actuator by hand to see if you have back pressure (on tongue) - See if hydraulic actuator (mini-looking shock absorber) in tongue is connected. - Check for brake fluid leak @ drums. - Bleed air out of brakes

Here are some pics...

Newbie here - ‘02 Elite V C4 - wondering about bunk height for proper shaft clearance for those of you that have boat lifts. I’m planning on switching our boat house bunks from pontoon configuration over to a V-drive setup for our Centurion. Plan is to place (2) 2x12x14 treated boards screwed together and mounted on end, resting on the lift’s cross-cradle as a bunk. I’m putting a 10 degree cut on the top of the 2x12’s to provide some angle, and cover that 3” edge profile w/ synthetic gator bunk cover. Wow, four of those treated 2x12x14’s weigh close to 300#! I’ve seen Mastercraft boat lift setup similar w/ 2x10’s. Are my 2x12’s overkill?