Anson

Does anyone know anything about these things? Was told today that the actuators are no longer available and they are proprietary. If anyone has any info or ideas, please let me know.

2006 Avalanche w/6.2 Black Scorpion. For whatever reason after running and then shutting down for more than 30mins, it will not start. It seems like a vapor lock. Runs good with no hesitation at all when running. I installed a new booster pump, water separated filter and fuel filter, but it still does it. I managed to get it started by using full throttle a few time. I’ve also had to be towed in a few times and have start without any problem in a few hours. After looking online, it seems to be a common problem, but I haven’t found a fix. If anyone has any idea, please help. Also, where is the fuel cooler installed on this thing and is it even possible to get to it without removing the entire engine.

2006 Avalanche with 6.2 will not start after hot soak. Is there a fix for this? Fuel boost pump and fuel cooler pump are new and working, but no start.

Really hate to ask this, but is there any info out there about the 2006 Avalanche? Just bought it and cant find any info at all about the shower, heater or anything else. Understand it’s a boat, but geeeez I cant find anything online.

Has anyone ever used the factory center drain as a ballast fill inlet on a 2006 Avy? Just looking for options before I drill two more holes in the hull.

Switchblade Wake sells a pre wired rocker switch that does away with the need for a computer, not really sure what it did anyway. The Lenco actuators don’t have a limit, they freewheel when they get to full travel (extended and retracted). Not sure when the fuse blew, but I think it’s when it was extended and under a water, I must have retracted it and maybe It’s too much for the actuators. Going out on the water in the morning and plan on testing to find out when it blows. The Lenco actuators are really easy to rebuild, but Lenco doesn’t support them. Got to go to EBay and not really sure if the new O rings are the right size or not. I do know that the are dry inside because I took them apart for the four time to check. Wish this Switchblade was a little heavier, it would make a good anchor. If anyone is interested in buying this thing, please let me know.

I though that was a possibility, but I don’t think so. I pulled them off and ran them while connected directly to a battery fully submerged (Switchblade said to do this to check if computer was bad) they work fine. Not sure if it’s the weight of the actual blade itself or what. Appreciate the response, whatever I get from you guys is a lot better than anything I’ve heard from Switchblade Wake. Don’t think they have anyone on staff that even understands what this thing even does.

I hate to keep rambling about this thing, but I got on the water today with the new Switchblade Wake Co. bypass switch. Let’s the system work without the Lenco computer. It’s kinda low tech, but OK (my 14yr old could make a better wiring diagram). It has four wires, power, ground and two for the Lenco actuators. It tested OK out of the water, but it consistently blows the 30amp fuse in the water. As soon as there is a load (water) on this thing it blows the fuse. Awesome, can’t wait to get this thing off my boat. It’s almost heavy enough to be an OK anchor.

It’s a bad deal. Actuators are proprietary and Lenco will not work with you on replacements. It’s a Switchblade Wake company problem. The sucky part is the gen 1’s are not compatible with gen 2 or gen 3 so the whole thing is completely unsupported by the company (Switchblade Wake). If that wasn’t enough the Switchblade computers are unavailable as well (also haves a Lenco sticker on it) and yes, there are gen1, gen2 and gen3 versions. Switchblade sells a bypass switch and does away with the need for a computer, but now I’ve got 3 holes in my dash to deal with, awesome. On a semi happy note, I bought lenco motors off Ebay and rebuilt the actuators for about 100.00 so for now it works, but when it fails and it will fail I’m ripping it out. Without any support from the manufacturer I would stay away from these guys. What absolutely suuucks, is Before I bought this boat i called them and checked on support for it and was told parts are,always available. It’s just not true. Sorry to ramble, but I have never seem a 5k+ system that is completely unsupported by the manufacture and with no upgrade path or some kind of parts pool or anything. It’s not a shock that these things aren’t on everything.

I bought an 06 Avalanche with a Black Scorpion 6.2 with really low time (230hrs) that looked like it had been taken care of, but it wasn’t. The latest issue is, the sea pump will not pump. After destroying a couple of impellers I finally checked the cooling lines and found an insane amount of broken impeller pieces in the tranny cooler. The boat had a new impeller in it (should have been a red flag) so I have no idea if more material is downstream or if anything can even get downstream. My question is can anything actually get passed the tranny cooler? I can now push water with a garden hose from the pump all the through the exhaust, so I’m wondering if I’m ok or I need to check the thermostat housing? Also, giving up on the original sea pump and replacing with a Harding SS. Sorry for the really dumb questions, but I cant find anyone in Arizona in the boat business that has an IQ greater than a pine cone. The previous owner is completely worthless, not sure how he managed to get it off the trailer.

Installed new impeller in sea pump, used a fake lake to check installation. Not getting any water out of exhaust, pump is dry. Tried priming or filling intake line with water, still will not pump. I have had several boat shops look at the pump and tell me it’s good, but it doesn’t work at all. Anyone have anything like this going on, ever? It’s the brass sea pump, it’s definately worn on the from and back of the housing.

Thanks for the response. O ring is in and I’m 99% positive there Isn’t any air leak, but the brass sea pump itself is scored internally pretty bad (inside the case as well as the back plate). They look like bad brake rotors (1/4 inch groves). Not sure about what kind of tolerance is needed, but both of the boat guys in town said it should pump. I was told there is a rebuild kit out there that comes with stainless steel plates that provide a new surface for the impeller to ride on. Anyone know anything about it?

Just bought a 2006 Avalanche, Storm III with 6.2. Looking for fluid capacities and type for engine, drive and trans. Also, does anyone know anything about steering cables. It’s extremely stiff and feels like it’s about to break.

Just bought an 06 Avalanche and figuring out things. Does anyone actually fold their tower? If so, what does it rest on when folded?

Thanks, really appreciate it.

Just bought a 2006 Avalanche and trying to figure systems out. Does anyone know how to troubleshoot the Switchblade? The manual toggle switch doesn’t light up at all and the unit in the back doesn’t move at all (bad actuators?). Fuse is good