-HONCHO-

I am a rookie boarder this year and I recently was able to drop the rope. I was fortunate enough to demo a Ronix Blender and I instantly felt really good about it and comfortable on it. My only concern was I kept dipping the nose, granted it was more then likely my limited riding skill. I had a plethora of board shapes and styles we were going through and I kept coming back to the blender, this one just felt right to me. I also had the pleasure of riding a custom made board that was very similar to the blender only thicker like a surf board and I did really well on that too so it left me wondering if there is a comparable board as the blender out there but thicker? I thank you in advance for your input.

Are you guys running the Acme 1617 prop?

I have a 2017 238 and I'm running the wake makers set up with 750s in the rear lockers and 250s I believe under the bench seats. I added 700lbs of lead last year in the rear lockers and have since acquired 600 more lbs of ballast for this upcoming year.

where are you located, Eastern or Western Wa?

So the other night we got home late from the lake after being out pretty much all day, the sun was already down and I was beat. I pull up to the house, disconnected the boat from my truck and go to pull away, I hear a clunk and feel a small jerk. I immediately stop. I walk to the back to see this still hanging from my hitch......... Yup, I forgot to disconnect the boat trailer emergency brake cable! Now the way my mind works is a two part process, first, it was a string of curse words that if heard out load would make a sailor blush. Second, I questioned how much money my self inflicting wound just cost me. Luckily through the power of the internet it actually was a very cheap learning experience. You can buy just the cable for around $13 but the catch is its almost $10 for shipping so I just hit up my local boat shop and bought a kit for under $30 which comes with a new cable, clip, and attachment plate. Now, I can only assume most of us are running some type of UFP hitch on our trailers. If you're not sure, they will be labeled just like this. UFP is the make and my particular hitch is model A-84. Google that and all your replacement parts will come up. As you can see this particular cable kit I bought covers multiple models The hitch is actually a pretty simple system. Trailer braking is controlled by the actuator mounted on the tongue of the trailer. When the tow vehicle brakes are applied, the “surge” or “push” of the trailer toward the tow vehicle automatically applies and synchronizes the trailer brakes with the tow vehicle brakes. The coupler slides into the actuator applying force to a piston inside of a master cylinder, which applies the trailer brake.At constant speed, the brake actuator master cylinder piston is in the free (extended) position; and the trailer brakes are not applied. The shock absorber controls random application of the trailer brakes when towing on rough roads. When the tow vehicle slows down, the trailer moves toward the tow vehicle. The actuator slides over the coupler, applying force to the master cylinder piston in direct proportion to how fast the tow vehicle is slowing and how much the trailer weighs. The piston moves into the master cylinder, building pressure to apply the trailer brakes. The shock absorber makes sure the brakes are applied and released smoothly. All actuators must have a way to apply the trailer brakes should the trailer become completely detached from the towing vehicle. The breakaway cable is the third line of defense after trailer separation. Before the breakaway cable is pulled, the coupler must become detached from the hitch ball and then the safety chains must fail. At this time the breakaway cable is pulled which will apply a braking force to the trailer. Note: The breakaway system is not intended to lock up the trailer brakes after tow vehicle separation but rather to apply just enough braking force to keep the trailer from free-wheeling down the road. The breakaway system must be reset manually after it has been activated. So with all that being said its time to get dirty! Before you begin you will need a pair of snap ring (circlips) pliers, without them you will not be able to even start this job. Here is what you're up against..... First order of business is to remove the two snap rings (circlips) from both pins. Once the snap rings are removed you need to pull both roll pins out. Once the pins are pulled you can pull on the hitch receiver mount to separate the inner member from the neck, exposing the internal workings such as the shock absorber, master cylinder and such. Now this little guy is the best thing invented since sliced bread, this is the electronic reversing solenoid, Its sole purpose is to allow you to back up without the brakes locking up. If you've ever tried to back your trailer up without having the plug in your rig then you know what I'm talking about. If you don't have one of these little buggers then you will have to use a lock out key or plug. The purpose of a lock out key is to fit behind the front sliding roll pin to "lock it out" from sliding back and engaging your brakes while reversing. it is also suggested to use even with the reversing solenoid when backing over soft ground or up an incline without the brakes fully engaging. The plug is just that, a plug that goes in your master cylinder reservoir and accomplishes the same results. Once you separate the inner member from the neck you can separate the pushrod assembly from both the master cylinder and the safety release bracket and pull the cable attachment bracket off and replace it with the new one. Yours may or may not be broken or distorted, mine was not but I elected to replace it anyway. After you replace the cable attachment bracket and connect the cable you can start to assemble everything. When inserting the push rod into the push bracket you have to depress press the safety release bracket to allow the push rod to slide in. The correct orientation of the clip is to face it so the cable pulls towards the boat first then loops back around to either stick out the front or side of the trailer hitch. About the only problem I ran into was once I separated the inner member from the neck these plastic spacers became dislodged and was a mother to get back in position when reassembling. They fit in a recessed area on the master cylinder at the rear pin area and are next to impossible to place while sliding the inner member past them. The correct orientation is smaller flange towards the master cylinder. Honestly its not that big or hard of a job. Maybe a touch intimidating because nobody wants to tear into their braking system of their trailer and mess it up, but it seriously took me all of 20 minutes to complete, and 15 of that was trying to line up those plastic spacers!

This is quoted from the facebook page, hope it helps on the '16 238, the goofy setup is 100% both hard tanks100% rear goofy pnp0% bow 0% center 0% trim tabSurf right tab click down until wave is clean11mphregular setup:100% both hard tanks100% rear regular pnp50% rear goofy pnp0% bow0% center50% trim tabsurf left click down until wave is clean 11mphwe also run 200 pounds of lead in each rear locker as far back as possible and also 200 pounds of lead on the corner seat of surf side.

No worries

I believe you're right, fortunately I have never had the pleasure of testing this theory

This is what $88k out the door in 2017 got me, wakemakers upgrade, 6 cleats total, bow fill cushion, heater with hot tube and 2 outlets, walk through wind block Gatorstep flooring, swim step, trailer steps, and fenders clarion CM-2 bluetooth AM/FM USB stereo with 6.5" wet sounds WS65B speakers and HT-6 amp, 2 sets of concert series wet sounds REV 8" tower speakers and a 12" sub swivel board racks for octo tower PTM edge HD mirror PNP rear ballast bags, bow ballast bag and quick surf bimini top with surf pockets, and boat cover depth finder/water temp 1 smooth trac fin touch screen dash monitor with trim tab display zero off cruise control 2nd battery package 6.0 409hp engine and a pimped out tandem trailer with led lighting.

+1 hydrogen peroxide and defiantly test it first cause it will bleach things out, maybe on the bumper of the trailer or somewhere it won't attract some eyeballing FYI it is gator step that you have and yours is called sharkfin, scraped texture

Has anybody gotten their hands on a repair or maintenance manual for the Supreme crusader engines? Does such a thing exist? I have the cheesy photocopied less then ideal pictures that came with the owners manual but there has to be something better out there, either from the manufacturer or an independent publisher I would think.......

Dealer never came through so I'm ready for that PDF as well

While at the lake this 4th of July I attempted to anchor up to shore for the first time in pretty rough water, up until now I've never had the need to. I was totally unimpressed with the anchor I had with all the rollers and chop blasting the beach which got me thinking, what is everybody using for an anchor system? Ive had my eye on the box anchors that fold down and can be stowed away. https://www.slideanchor.com/boxanchor/ As funny as it would be to roll with an anchor like from the Queen Anne's Revenge there has to be a pretty slick system out there that works well for our type of boats.

I got off of work early today and it was 92 out so we took the boat out with a couple hours of daylight left. I threw my new anchor system in the boat so i could sneak in a test run. Couldn't be more pleased! i threw her out with 50' of line in 28' of water and she held like a champ, granted the lake was pretty calm but the wind was a steady 10mph. Upon pulling her up i found two fist size rocks in between the sets of flukes. The flukes weren't even buried in mud like i thought, she was resting on the bottom. 25lb anchor held my 238 solid! Im pretty stoked. She folds up pretty nice and i keep her right next to my fire extinguisher under the passenger seat.

Just imagine the red arrow is the 3 lines coming from the rear locker to your bench.

Heres what it looks like....... This is the port side rear locker 750 bag.The yellow arrows are pointing to the 3 plumbed hoses running up from the 750 to the bench bag via under the rear corner seat. Stern is at the bottom and bow at the top of the picture. This is the port side bench bag These are the 3 plumbed lines coming from the port side rear locker 750 bag. The bench bags do not have a overflow or drain. As the rear locker fills so does the bench bag until it is full and the the rear locker bag finishes filling. The rear locker drains 90% and then sucks the bench bag into a pancake then finishes draining until it too pancakes.

As far as i know it is a custom set up. They piped the rear locker and the benches with 3 tubes instead of one. The benches do not have a overfill or drain, just the 3 incoming tubes so they act in tandem with the rear locker

Ive looked into upgrading my rear lockers from 750s to 1100s but what I have found out is, instead of the 3 hoses connecting my rear locker to my benches like it is now, it would only be 1 which would take forever to drain and fill so i stuffed 350lbs of lead in each locker to make up for it

Im running the wake makers PNP under my benches, https://www.wakemakers.com/supreme-s238-bag-buster-kit.html whats your question?

So in the quest for off shore anchoring i did indeed swing by West Marine today and pick up this anchor. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--stowaway-folding-anchors--P014063861 She is a beauty at 25lbs and galvanized dipped and is basically one side of the almighty box anchor and as Infinity said, how can you go wrong for half price? It came with its own stow away bag and folds down almost flat minus the pitch of the flukes which is about 2-3 inches. I also picked up the anchor buddy and a slalom buoy as a marker for when I'm out and about. I already own a sand spike and double braided 3/8 anchor line so i believe i am good to go. i won't be back in the water until Sunday but i will be sure to report back on my experience which I'm pretty sure is going to be top notch.

Roger that on the large sized box anchor. I ran across this little guy today while researching https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--stowaway-folding-anchors--P014063861 I believe the 25lb will do the trick. Most of the lakes I frequent around Washington State are sand or mud bottoms AND they sell the anchor buddy also. One stop shopping

So I've been investigating this set up; anchor buddy and the large box anchor. I believe this combo will be the cats meow. I already have a shore spike so I'm good to go there. I understand the principle behind the anchor buddy pulling your boat back out to deeper water but what I'm not understanding is, whats stopping your boat from being blown back to shore due to wind or heavy rollers or into another boat close by if the line can stretch?

+1 for the super hitch

oh, and my surf tabs are at 85%

mine are at 2.00 minutes fill and drain