JJOcean

Love the mods! On the phone charger mount, how did you go about re-routing the power cord? Did you solder off the the wires from the circuit board inside the charger housing, mount the circuit board behind the dash, drill out a small hole in the back of the charger housing and run new wire from the circuit board that's now outside the housing behind the dash to the soldered off wires inside the housing? I'm really tired of my phone ending up all over the place, so would definitely want to do something similar - just curious of your method. Thanks!

Cans - I'm guessing 3-4 cans.The coats are real thin, but you can put down several coats per can ... depending on how wide you overspray. Tape - I looked around a lot and settled on T.R.U. DC-PEF12P Black Double Coated Window Glazing Tape: 1/8 in. thick x 1/2 in. wide. Wide operating temp range. Worked fine. Was looking for something with more rubber in it, but couldn't find it. I would use this tape again on it. OEM clear - talking about the clear that came from the factory.

Finally took some pics of the vents after the new clear while I was out this weekend. Real happy with the results. Might be hard to see in the pics, but any areas that might have been slightly blurred are completely clear now. Also, the OEM clear seemed to have a little yellow tint to it. The new automotive grade clear is crystal - no tint ... almost of hint of blue which matches my boat even better. More likely is that the clear is picking up the hue of the gel coat that the OEM clear didn't. Anyway, very happy with the results. Just a pain to remove, sand, clear and remount. The real test is how long it stays like that.

I only went down to 1200 ... wet sand. Probably overkill. I used Eastwood's 2K AeroSpray High-Gloss Clear. Sprayed out well, but wasn't as thick as I wanted, so dropped it off at the auto body shop that does all my cars' paint and had them do "multiple coats of clear ... for a boat, so it will see a lot of sun and water". Don't know for sure, but guessing they did 5-6 coats. I could have ordered more cans and done it myself, but was travelling a lot and wanted to get it done sooner than later.

I ended up taking them off, removing the old seals, sanding them down a little with fine grit and then putting several automotive grade clear coats on them. I reinstalled them last week. They look great - even better than right after I would polish them. Time will tell how long they stay that nice. Here's the before photo. I don't have an after photo ... will try to take one this weekend then post. I also ended up re-seating the screen on both sides since they popped the glue spots in a couple places and were sagging a little lower in some spots (previous owner must have stepped on them a time or 2). Used JB Weld to adhere screen back to CF backing.

Got it back on. As stated by you guys above, just required me putting my big boy pants on and recruiting a second person to apply the pressure to keep the U tube aligned while I finagled the hose back on. 1 person can't do both of those things at the same time. A lot of sweat, body contortions and 6 bloody knuckles was the cost. As for how it happened, I think the hose clamps were never on tight or at some point were loosened and never re-tightened and it just slowly slide off over time. Where the hose slipped off - those 2 hose clamps were completely loose to the point I could easily spin them (and the screw) by hand. The ones on top were tight, they just show loose and moved in the pic I took because I loosened them up with a screw driver in an attempt to get it back on. I did find a post on here from 2010 when searching "exhaust hose", where somebody had a brand new boat where this same thing happened right after delivery and they concluded somebody at the factory never tightened the hose clamps. I don't know if that was the case with my boat, but it is certainly one of the possibilities. My recommendation is for you guys to check the tightness of your hose clamps the next time you go out.

I was out on the lake most of the day and about to finish up about 3 hours of surfing when I notice the exhaust note changed as I was sitting idle while changing riders. Flip up the back cushion ... more exhaust note and exhaust smell immediately noticed, plus more water than normal and i could tell the water in the bilge was moving around a little. All not normal. Could easily tell the exhaust output was partially discharging into the engine bay. Of course I'm sitting there with full ballast. Thankfully I was close to the dock. Once back and up on lift I was able to tell the large exhaust hose (guessing 4" diameter) that runs along the bottom of the hull had partially slipped off from the hard fiberglass U tube (my term for it). Basically, coming off the port cat it has a short ~6" rubber exhaust hose that then attaches to the "hard U tube" that then attaches to a +36" rubber hose and ultimately to the flapper down the line. It was the connection between the u tube and the +36" hose where it partially slipped off. Both the hose clamps were completely loose too. It also looks like the other side of the u tube that is connected to the ~6" hose had slipped some too, but it didn't slip off. Those hose clamps were fairly tight, but I loosened them in the pic in an attempt to get the lower hose back on. Any tips on getting the hose back on? It is a real PITA. Very tight quarters, rigid hose and the U tube has very little play - even after I loosened the top. Shot of lower hose seperation Shot of top hose slip - no seperation

I had templates for the pockets, but my bimini top angles up, flat for a little bit and angles down. I really didn't realize how much curve was up there until I laid my board up there. When I laid the templates out on the top, there were just too many curves for it to work well. The newer style biminis are really straight/flat and work well for pockets. I like the pockets, just couldn't figure out how to make them work well for my top.

Yes - I will have to stand on the gunwales to get the boards on/off. Yes - I have to take the racks off to take the bimini down. All trade-offs I made. My deciding factors were: I'm 6'4", so no way they could they go under - already hit head on inner speakers from time to time. As for the bimin, it stays up for us all season, so I wanted as clean and small as openings as possible. If I was trailering the boat I would have gone the zipper route.

No ... not much science there. I've attached the "official tech spec" for this procedure. I kind of laughed when I first read it, but appreciated them sending it. Obviously, if you've done it a couple times before you'd have a lot better idea of how much to take off based on the amount of pull. Definitely a rinse & repeat until you like the result ... and better to error on the side of not grinding off too much. And yes, I have a window rudder, but the rudder needed way more adjustment than what the "window deflector" could adjust. Mine is adjusted now to the point the rudder is dead straight. No adjustment needed on the "window deflector".

The bolt was not OEM (smaller diameter) and it caused the mounting hole in the actuator to wear out in an oblong fashion, so even when I got the correct bolt installed there would still be play. Not sure if it was the previous dealer or previous owner who put the non-OEM bolt on there. Much appreciation to Fineline - they stood behind it and replaced the actuator and bolt.

Updating post with final resolution in case anybody else runs into this.. Obviously, the CATS needed to be fixed. However, it had zero effect on the boat pull. It ended up that the brand new rudder needed to be adjusted (with a grinder on the trailing edge). More grinding than I expected. New dealer got it adjusted right.

Finally got the boat back from the dealer this week ... took forever on parts, some parts missing, wait for second shipment, etc. All working as it should now. Anyway, got the racks mounted. I hope to use them this coming weekend.

CF vents look great. Let me know how long they stay looking like that? Can't remember the product I've been using, but they turn out great after application, but they loose shine after 2-3 outings. Was thinking the only real way to fix it was to take them off and put a high quality clear coat on them.

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