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JJOcean

Centurion
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JJOcean last won the day on March 23

JJOcean had the most liked content!

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About JJOcean

  • Rank
    Weekender

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Atlanta

Previous Fields

  • Boat
    Centurion Enzo 244

Recent Profile Visitors

326 profile views
  1. CF vents look great. Let me know how long they stay looking like that? Can't remember the product I've been using, but they turn out great after application, but they loose shine after 2-3 outings. Was thinking the only real way to fix it was to take them off and put a high quality clear coat on them.
  2. Hull blisters

    Sent you PM
  3. Hull blisters

    What city are you in? Doesn't say on your profile. There was a dealer change here in Atlanta over the fall, so I can give you info/experience on the change if you're in Atlanta.
  4. The threaded 2" x 1/2" bolts are the only thing that holds the spacer & racks on - bolt simply passes through the rack & spacer (neither are threaded). You back that bolt out of the tapped hole in the tower - everything is completely disconnected from the tower. My plan is to put the bimini up without the racks on. The bimini has 4 1.5" holes cut & hemmed exactly where the tapped holes are & the spacers go - 1/2" extra clearance in the bimini holes for buffer. Once the bimini is up, I place the spacers up there one at a a time in each opening, put the rack on top of that & feed the bolt through both the rack/spacer and into the threaded hole in the tower to secure everything. I'll thread the bolts loose one at a time & then tighten down once they are all in. If I every need/want to take the top down - I just remove the bolts and the spacers/racks are disconnected. I just need to hold onto the spacer & rack when I pull the bolt out to make sure they don't slide down the side of the bimini and into the water I'll take pics of it all once I get my boat back from the dealer - pics will probably make it a little clearer.
  5. The risers are just 1" diameter aluminum drilled out 1/2" in center, angle cut to match tower drop, and a 1" weather-resistant EPDM rubber sealing washer (-20 to 212 deg. rated) on either side. I have a 2" long stainless steel 1/2" diameter bolt that passes through the rack, washers & risers into a 1/2" tap on the tower. You can see the "button" head of the bolt in at least 1 of the pics - allen head indention. I also had to drill out the rack slightly to pass the 1/2" bolt, but the drill out will also prevent any sliding of the rack which I wanted. I checked the cross bar clearance like 4 time before I tapped the tower. Nothing like a little pucker factor drilling 4 1/2" holes in a perfectly good tower! I too ended up going wider than planned. The tow rope won't be an issue for surfing. I expect I might have an issue wake boarding with boards up there, but I mostly surf & made the compromise. If I went out another 4" I probably could have completely resolved the wake boarding issue, but the tower really starts dropping off fast on that part of the tower. I doubt you'll have an issue with the tow rope in your setup given the height of your mounts. Definitely like the functionality you put into yours. I was trying to make mine as low profile as possible, but I had to take the tow rope limitation as a potential trade off to do it.
  6. I'm in the process of mounting 2 of Piper's rack up top on my Gladiator tower. I've got 4 speakers and lights all mounted on the tower now, so out of room under. Plus I'm 6'4" and I bump my head from time to time on my inside speakers ... would hate to catch my melon on a board. Boards will be up top with socks on. Here's a couple shots of the base install. I went with bigger bolts (1/2" diameter) since I'm offsetting the mount points on just the back side of the racks. Since those pics were taken, I've powder coated the racks and spacer mounts black to match the tower. I also just got the bimini back with 4 holes hemmed to allow the spacer mounts to pass through. My boat is at the dealer right now getting my tracking trued up after a rudder replacement. Once I get it back, I'll mount every thing and post some pics of the final install. Top quality racks ... can't wait to get them some use!
  7. Definitely need to post some pics when she is all done!
  8. Box Anchor on sale

    Appreciate the heads up. It was on my list to replace my mushroom anchor - just waiting for a deal. Pulled the trigger. Thanks.
  9. Got new Soulcraft

    Congrats! Very nice board. Jeff built me a 4'10" Voodoo ... finally got it about a month ago and only have been able to get out on it a couple times, but it is awesome. Certainly the favorite of the boards I have.
  10. Yeah, it isn't right. Confirmed that with dealer & Fineline today. A new actuator and bolt/washers/nut is in the process of getting ordered. Hopefully, that change out will correct the issues. The rudder still may need a little tuning, but my CATS needs to be fixed and is certainly masking if I need to tune the rudder. Only a matter of time before the eyelet on the actuator completely gave out.
  11. Ok, so I pulled the floor up early this morning to get a good look at the CATS. There clearly is some play in the CATS as you can see from the video below. If I push out the play by hand the CATS fin is aligned. However, in the shorter position of the play (where the system moves it to) it is not aligned. The reason for the play is that the bolt and nut that holds the arm on the other end (opposite the CATS fin side) is completely loose. The nut and bolt is on there – it just isn’t anywhere close to being tightened down. It has at least .75” – 1” of travel from the bolt head to the nut. I’m assuming that bolt and nut should be tightened down to prevent the horizontal movement??? I also don’t think that the nut and bolt that are currently on there is OEM because the diameter seems smaller than it should (has a lot of play within the hole) and if I did tighten down the nut, I’d have at least 1” of excess thread sticking above the nut. That space is real tight, so I’d doubt Fineline would spec the bolt that long. The plastic housing where the bolt goes through doesn’t appear to be cracked like I’ve seen on a couple other posts, but it is pretty hard to see given the tight quarters – I just felt around it with my fingers on the parts I couldn’t see. I also didn’t tighten down the bolt today because I don’t think the bolt is OEM. My plan is to get the OEM bolt/nut, replace what’s there and tighten it down properly. I also plan to get a replacement arm just in case. I plan to examine the current arm when I replace the existing bolt/nut to check it for cracks. Given the play that exists, I’m sure there’s been some abnormal stress on it. Any other suggestions or opinions on next steps vs. my plan?
  12. Sorry ... times 2, ditto, what he said. I got it through my dealer.
  13. X2 ... that's where I got mine for my SV244
  14. Thanks. I will try to run by the slip and check that this evening.
  15. Thanks for the input guys. I really think it is the CATS as well. I did pop the small cover to look at it yesterday. I’m using someone else’s pic, but I did check the pin out in the red circle to make sure it was in place and had cotter pin intact underneath – all good. That pin was an issue when I first bought the boat. The part with the 2 bolts in the pic seemed to look OK as well, but not sure if I’d notice what “normal” was. Is the area you’re talking about on the other end of the hydraulic arm that you really can’t see through the pop-out hole? I can pull up the floor and take a good look … assuming there’s a pivot point to examine and the housing surrounding it (going from memory the last time I removed the floor). I didn’t articulate the CATS why I had the cover open, but it did seem odd that I could manually move the fin one way about half an inch and then stop with a little more than light pressure. Never tried that before, so don’t know if that’s normal … guessing not.
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