49faith

OK, I'll bring it down then. That's too bad. It sounded pretty nice.

It is set to high pass, but the bass boost seemed like it helped the overall sound. The highs were really bright when everything was flat, so I bumped that a little and it seemed to even out. It's not cranked, but it sounded more full to me.

Finally had time to play around with the settings this weekend and the whole system is definitely much better now. The towers did need some gain and I even bumped the bass boost up a tiny bit. The REV's are really, really loud. I'm not sure I could even handle 4 of those in a boat my size. This is going to be great for the season, so I'll be back to asking more questions when it's time to put the 220 and sub in. Thanks again for all the help guys!

+1 I'm in for an S21 tray. I'll give dims if it's much different than your S226.

I went with the whole boat bling lineup and the hotsauce is great for getting hard water spots off and leaving a good quick shine. The vinyl sauce is a little subpar so I'll try something else next time.

That's a bummer. I just ordered some 1100's and I wanted to do the same thing. Lead might be easier.

OK, i'll start there. I was exhausted after the install so I didn't mess with the settings. I'm sure I can get them sounding better and having 80Hz as a starting point is helpful. I saw yours. I just assumed the foot rest was different on your boat. Nice to know I have some room to play. Thanks. The sounds quality is actually very nice. I just assumed there would be more punch (again, I know they're not subs) and volume. I was having a hard time hearing them over the sound of the engine, but gains/eq were not modified. It's not upsetting me, I just know I need to have it tuned.

Yeah I was thinking about getting it tuned, but figured I'd just wait until I have the sub and 220 installed. Just need something for the mean time, so I'll play with it. The area behind is the bow seat storage, so it's empty back there.

Well, I finished the install but the fishing of wires through the tower about killed me. This tower was designed by Satan, I'm sure of it. I got it up and running but I need to tune it, the sound right now is a little underwhelming. The manual for the SYN4 says to set up tower speakers for a 'high' on the crossover, but since I don't have a sub wouldn't this leave me without any bass notes? I'm obviously not trying to reproduce a sub on the tower, but I do want to hear them put out midbass at least. Here's a pic of the under helm area. Oar for size reference. Not sure what I can do with this space but I took your advice and left the 5&6 channel free on the HTX6 to power a ported sub in the future.

I have this issue when I dont have enough weight. For the most part I've been able to clean my goofy up with a suck gate and lead. With at least 2 extra adults (besides my wife and 2 kids, total 220 lbs) in the boat I tuck 200 lbs in the surf side locker under the PNP bag and then use a nauticurl. I still run it listed this way and i'm able to ride ropeless. I only do this for the goofy side though. The regular side seems to be worse with the nauticurl. I went out yesterday with just my wife and kids and now know that I'll need another 400 or so pounds of lead/bags on the surf side because the push was definitely lacking.

Nice looking boat. Just chiming in on the Nauticurl. I got one to clean up my goofy side and I'm really happy with the listed wave on my S21. I forgot to take it off at one point and was doing 20 or so and it stayed on. It doesn't come with the bag and it doesn't float like the Mission Delta, but it's half the cost. They have a 20 dollar off promo right now with code WORLD20. Cheers.

Thanks. REV10's so it'll eat up a little more room than factory 8's. Are the pull loops pretty tight? I thought stacked boards might chatter and bang into each other.

I'm thinking the same. I'll have to go measure it out.

I don't have a helm panel on the S21, but I get what you are saying. I saw his setup (or something like it) on here. It's just bare under there on my boat so I figured it would have to be a custom box, which I'm not equipped to do and have no idea on what that would cost to have made and installed for me. Is mounting a sub under the observers area generally a bad idea? I feel like I've seen a few factory setups with a powered AS-10 under there.

Do you think there is enough room to fit 2 side by side with the top speaker mounts used? I'm going to order at least 1. Curious if I could get 2 in there on my S21.

I'll run the 6x100 like I originally planned. I don't want to sacrifice a ton of space for a sub. Guess it's a good thing I decided to run a trunk to distros so I can add a separate amp/sub later. This is becoming a larger project than I had originally intended, but it'll be worth it. Thanks for all the help.

I'm going back and forth on the idea of leaving the unused channels for a future sub, but not really sure if the 300w is enough for a decent enclosed 12.

OK. I'll redo the towers then. It shouldn't be hard to run since it's prewired.

It's a 2015 and has 16ga to the in boats. I didn't trace them all but I know it's not running 6x100 from the HTX6 because not all of the outputs are connected (probably to allow for the prewired towers.) I thought it would be easier to just rewire them all with nice cable. It's not really that much work. The SYN4 will be run 3 feet or so. HTX6 is under a foot. I'l see if I can move some stuff around, but I dont think there is enough room on the same wall.

I had a hard time finding one when I was looking at boats. Did end up finding this one on Instagram though: https://www.instagram.com/p/BM4ZIeRg5UE/ Pretty clean.

Yeah I think I'll go with the 220 when I do the sub later. Since I'm going to leave myself room to grow I decided to use a distribution block for the power and ground. Any recommendations or are they all really the same? The wetsounds block only does 1 in, 2out and the power and ground are on the same block. There are ANL fuses on the block too, so I guess that's added protection for the 4ga wires going to the amps but I'm not sure I need that on top of the breaker on the 0 from the batts. I called them on Friday but didn't get anyone so I wasn't able to ask who the closest dealer to me is. I'm going to try to start and finish the install next week after work. Since I'm ripping out all the existing inboat wiring, is it worth it to go 'marine' grade speaker wire over standard OFC? The factory wiring isn't jacketed and doesn't look marine to me. It's purely freshwater lakes and it isn't stored on the water. I was just going to run 14awg all the way around and 12 in the tower but the tower already has 14 prewired. The leads going into the REV's are 14 also so I might be overthinking this again. Should I even bother with the tower and use the existing 14 gauge? Thanks for all the help. I've done a bit of car audio in the past but this is my first boat install and just want to make sure it's done right.

I'll look into my local dealer. I already have the amp and speakers coming, but I could buy the install parts locally and get some added help along the way. Thanks.

The boat has 6 inboats (XS-65i I think) with 4 pods on the tower prewired. There is a HTX6 powering all inboats, but in what configuration, I don't know. I was planning on rewiring it all if needed to run true 100x6 off the HTX6 as the front channel and the SYN4 / REV 10's as the rear channel off of the head unit. So I only have the two zones but I might add a sub later on down the line and if needed a 420 then with a third bow zone. I was trying to keep this simple for now so I can get it done and on the water as soon as possible. I was considering running a breaker for each amp. Is the distribution block the way to go for multi amp setups?

Thanks for tuning in. I've been reading a lot of the older audio posts in this forum with some of your past help. I'm going to run the 400x2 after all. I'm gathering the rest of my install components and I'm going to add an 80A breaker off of the battery power going to the amp, but is there a recommended maximum run for the power and ground wires? I know I need to keep the breaker within 12" of the battery, but to run from my battery switch to the amp total, it could be over 3 feet if mounted on the rear wall.

That was my first thought since I don't really want to rearrange the whole side wall of the locker. Do you happen to know what depth/length screws you used?