Cwazy1

Thread Purpose: As a forum community who the majority of which share a passion for wake surfing, we should work together to answer the question of "how should I setup my boat for surfing". Problems with the current state of collecting data include primarily scattered information across threads requiring owners to read pages and pages looking for the right information. Also there is never a lack of new topics being posted requesting the same information. Other problems revolve around suggestions for various model years. As there were much changes from 16 to 17 model year, it gives us a prime opportunity to start fresh and build a reference thread. Thread Guidelines: We should follow a few guidelines to keep this thread accurate and useful. 1. Please answer the reference checklist below in your reference post 2. Please ONLY comment for MY2017 boats. In an effort to ensure this thread is at a maximum efficiency, lets keep '16 and earlier discussion at a minimum. 3. Please include pictures. I use https://imgbb.com/ to embed my images. Reference Checklist 1. Boat Model: 2. Regular or Goofy: 3. Bow Ballast Percent: 4. Mid Ballast Percent: 5. QF Port Percent: 6. QF Starboard Percent: 7. PnP Port Weight: 8. PnP Starboard Weight: 9. Other Ballast Weight (ie. Lead): 10. Number of Crew and positioning: 11. QuickSurf Port Setting: 12. QuickSurf Starboard Setting: 13. Stinger Tab Setting: 14: Picture:

My two pairs of REV8 tower speakers powered by a wetsounds syn-dx(4?) amp are outputting a lot of really loud static when I turn the key from off to accessory, or from off to electronics on. This never happens when I first turn on the boat and usually happens after we are surfing for a bit and are changing persons - at which time I turn off the engine and then flip the key to electronics on. I can make this go away by turning the rocker switch for stereo to off, starting the boat, putting it in idle, and then turning the rocker back on. At which point the stereo will have no issues. At the same time, this is maybe a 50% - 75% chance of it occurring. Since my head unit is paired with bluetooth, when I turn on the electronics, the amps power up, starts outputting static, and then the bluetooth says connected and starts playing my music as well. I can unpair bluetooth at this point or choose a different source, but it continues. I can also reboot the stereo through the rocker, but as long as the engine is off, it'll still be outputting lots of static. I would appreciate any feedback or help with this issue. I'm not very knowledgeable with audio, so I would appreciate it if it was explained to me like it was for a 12 year old lol. All the searching I've found online has been from static while the engine is on, not the other way around.. Thanks!

Has anyone ever tried to make one of those bins that fill the space between the engine and the cover? Malibu has them and I really enjoyed putting wet stuff there to be heated up for my next set. I also noticed that there is a TON of space between the engine and the cover hatch. I feel like I should use this space.. There are plenty of threads on cargo netting, but I'd like to avoid that as it'll drip water from any wet stuffs onto the engine and any of the electrical in there. Ideas?

If it is, and the bungee is on the leading edge of the rope closer to the attachment on the pylon, I'd just tie a knot around it and avoid using it.

Usually they can be removed as another section of the rope. Is yours fully integrated into the primary length of the rope?

Small handle > t bar > braided rope. Some people just don't have the grip strength for a braided rope. T bar just looks weird. But get a small handle and never consider anything bigger than 8-10 inches. Thats too much risk for beginners. I hate bungees. They tend to shoot back at the transom of the boat, or back into the boat and worse hit someone in the head. Absolutely worst invention ever. I get it, it makes the sudden jerk of the rider on the wave easier to manage, but they either need to learn to deal with it or just fall. Not worth damage to boat or potentially injuring the crew.

I built a propane metered golf ball cannon 10 years ago which could shoot about 300 yards. It was about 12 feet long with the barrel though.. https://cwazy1.wordpress.com/advance-combustion-cannon/

This is where I'm glad the two lakes near me are either so heavily dominated by water sports (lake sammamish) or have wind swells bigger than any yacht wake (lake washington) that no one even bats an eye to our small wakesurf waves.

maybe if you could find one that is big enough? When I think of those things I think deep and not super wide/long.

Ha! I've luckily never experienced it. I'm glad to be wet slipped in lake union. Although I do live right across the street from the armory entry on 75th. I do love riding my electric skateboard down through magnuson to the boat launch to watch the crazyness. Always brings a smile to my face.

nah, magnuson now has white lines as well as white bumps within each line.

Just a touch too high IMO. In this season, I wouldn't go over 65-67

haha me too, need to ensure that it fills 110% full all the way to the vent port out the gunwale

They're great and worth it. Pattern match is great.

iirc, vdrive fluids only need to be changed if it becomes contaminated. If you do change it, its just the fluid.

And this is because during that service, they check the alignment of the engine to vdrive, and if off, adjust engine mounts. ^ I wouldn't even think about adjusting that myself if the alignment was off. But outside of that, I also do the routine stuff myself. PCM engines are easy to work on. They're very well designed and Fineline has done a great job making sure everything is easily accessible

aerators are not self priming, meaning that water may freely pass through the hoses even when the pump is off. reversible pumps are self priming and sealed, meaning no water can freely pass through them when the pump is off. an aerator pump fill line can siphon water out of a ballast bag when the pump is off a reversible pump fill line can never siphon water out of a ballast bag when the pump is off (unless you have a faulty impeller which has a leak)

Pull 6 plugs on the engine/manifold to drain. Pull heater hose on one end of engine and blow to clear hose and radiator. Remove intake strainer and dump out water Pull v drive plug Turn on ballast pumps to ensure no water between ballast pump impeller veins Open and close QF valves to ensure no water Extra pooh: top off gas tank, pour appropriate stabil oil change oil filter change replace impeller every other year quick inspection of all hoses/wires/belt/lines

haha true, I just don't like the interior finishes. I am going to demo one on sat with a friend who is looking to upgrade his '12 supra

I would be careful with one of these because it isn't a protected spark. If used in a bilge with open flow into the engine compartment, you need to ensure there is zero flammable fumes.

But its so ugly!

If you can get your hands on a shipping cover, that would go over your tower in a folded down position. Otherwise you'd need to get a custom one made, or use tarps bungee corded down. Dealers usually throw away shipping covers so you could probably ask the dealer for one that was from a different boat. If you can't get one now, keep asking through the busy season. That way you'll have a good solution next year.

did you decide on what boat you're going to be in next year?

Ah yes! thanks for clarifying that.

just one.