Jlagos

Great boat. Welcome to the site.

Exhaust manifolds and risers can at times corrode in as soon as 10 years. I would guess that the water jacket (the holes within the exhaust manifold) that carries the water prior to dumping out exhaust is starting to fail. Theoretically not difficult to change and easily accessible. Typically 4 bolts to unscrew however they are often stubborn or unwilling to remove. If this is your problem, change both sides as they are both likely ready to fail. Hopefully others chime in to correct or confirm my suspicions.

On an older boat I would be concerned about the risers corroding over time but I would be surprised if this was happening in yours. What year is your boat? I would be inclined to think the head gasket is the problem. The overheating may have weakened the gasket.To check can do a compression check on all cylinders. If defective you'll find a cylinder(s) that have lower compression than the others. You may have to pull the cylinder head and inspect the head and block for cracks. I would bet on the gasket.

Take a look sporadically at https://greatlakesskipper.com they often carry some of the centurion boat accessories.

I have not been lucky enough to see a 7. Have you? They are a sweet. They sound cool as hell in the videos I've seen.

Awesome waves on both boats. David I guess you now need to change your profile to reflect the new boat!

I'm sure others will pipe in who know alot more than I but if i prefer to select the battery for the specific purpose. Cranking to start the engine, and a deep cycle for the radio and accessories when floating. I would imagine the deep cycle, as opposed to dual purpose, is able to tolerate the constant discharge/charge cycles better having thicker plates. Do your batteries sit sometimes in a partially discharged state or do you completely discharge your batteries prior to recharging? Both scenarios will kill batteries more quickly. I get the deep cycle with the highest Reserve capacity I can find locally. I have heard the Duracell batteries at Sam's are made by a very good brand (can't remember which manufacturer). I have thus far just purchased the flooded and have had pretty good results. I too do not have a huge sound system that requires multiple batteries and am often moving when on the water. Not sure why your batteries are lasting only 1.5 years I would have thought longer.

Dr. Nate, I had the same thing occur this weekend. Disc brakes on my trailer (surge not electric). I trailered about 1.5 miles and thought the trailer felt heavier than normal. Got to boat ramp and the brakes sizzled as I backed up into the water (crap!). Do you recall your problem and fix.

Your going to need to find Chevron/Havoline. Apparently PCM does not want a synthetic product in the unit. From what I've read that is what the technicians recommend. Havoline Automatic Transmission Fluid MD-3 Havoline® Automatic Transmission Fluid MD-3 is formulated for applications that call for the former DEXRON®-III H, MERCON®, and Allison C-4 fluids.

Harbor freight sells small funnels for very cheap

Yes, insert fluid extractor tube down dipstick whole and remove. Small funnel is much needed when refilling. I can't remember seeing any boat threads ever talking about filters.

Pretty much everything you mentioned is correct but I believe there are 2 fill caps for the vdrive (one on each side). You might get 1.2 quarts out of the transmission to put back in when you replace. I believe it holds 2 quarts when 1st filled. I think your always best to measure how much you suck out in order to know how much needs to go back in. Check fluid levels when the boat is afloat so the position on the trailer doesn't give a false reading. I dont remember if the dipstick is inserted all the way in or until the base of dipstick touches the housing.

Your correct about not needing changing the fluid in the vdrive portion of the "transmission". I have not heard or read of alot of problems by following their recommendation so I suspect it is not selling gimmick. As you read, check on the level and appearance to make sure no water has entered the unit. Always check for water entry if water surprisingly enters the bilge area and stays very elevated. If it sits in or under water, the water is more likely to slip past the seals/gaskets. You probably realize however that the transmission fluid does need changing. Just not the v-drive portion. Don't have a clear answer for your question Unfortunately.

So I've searched the threads and I am considering 2 options to add ballast weight. The easiest is the enzo bags (1480 lbs) on both sides but I am also considering placing separate bags in the rear lockers and bags beneath the mid-ship seating which would allow individual control of the zones. The addition of ballast pumps and engine divider panel support are a given (along with likely taking out the "sprinkler system" used to control water flow). Question: has anyone fit the large 1280 lbs large rear bag from wakemakers into the rear locker? It measures 50L x 25W x 25H. I have seen numerous people add the 1180 lbs bag that are 5 inches shorter in length (45L x 25W x 25H) quite commonly. But if the 1280 lbs bag fits, why not. I am about 90 minutes from my boat and can't get there for about 2 weeks to measure. If anyone knows the dimensions, of those rear lockers it would be of great help.

Sounds like we have the same 240. Still undecided on the setup I'll put in but all info helps. Now I probably need to stop overthinking it.

Good insight. I do have a son who prefers to wakeboard more than other. Control of ballast weight will help.

Good to know. 2010 model year manufactured in 2009. I'll have to relook but I thought I saw people mentioning that the enzo's left some unused space in the rear lockers. I didn't pay attention to the model years which could account for differences in the size of the lockers.

X2

I am assuming your putting 1 bag in each of the lockers. The large hose you have a picture of is typically attached to a blower to pull gas fumes out of the engine compartment and also allows air to move throughout the boat when it is underway. It is unable to hold water to pump out. Hoses to pump water to and from your ballast bags will typically be 1 inch in diameter. The most simplistic way is to get a pump connected to the ballast bag attached via a hose which has at the end a pump that you lower in to water which then fills the bag. Do you have true vent hoses and fill hoses attached to ballast pumps already plumbed into the boat?

Never understood fins forward. I always thought it would put alot of pressure on the fins to try and twist the board so the point turns front forward. Is it meant to catch a board on a tie down strap if not secured down properly?

Yep, new boat syndrome. It's just a matter of time.

Simple question for lots of ya. My sv 240 has the factory standard 4-channel Kicker MX350.4 amp that generates 175 W bridged at 4 ohms which was driving the generic factory installed Skylon subwoofer which is now dead. I was thinking of a 10" JL Audio MX10IB3 (rated upgto 175w RMS at 4 ohms). My brother said he would give me a Wet sounds SW-10FA (left over from prior purchase). Other than being free and an obvious gimme, will the MX350.4 be able to produce a decent sound without upgrading the AMP even though the Wet sounds sub is rated upto 300w RMS and peak of 600w. I have more pressing wants to spend money on such as adding ballasts to the boat in addition to getting a carport like enclosure to protect from the sun when not in use. So the radio is going to take a back seat to everything else...

Infinity, The carport description is exactly what i was thinking including the tarp covering the front. Nick, How long does the covering last on your set-up? I really like the closing capabilities. I notice you dont have many tall trees hovering over the roof tops like we often have in the carolinas. It looks to be a good material.

Wylie, Thanks for the help. It appears the WS can also be placed into an enclosure vs free air. Would the sound be improved with the enclosure/box as opposed to free-air

Definitely would second guess the recommendation to not dilute 50:50. From what I've learned, undiluted antifreeze is unable to unload the heat it absorbs readily and can result in an engine running hotter. The water (distilled) makes the antifreeze more dense and actually increases the boiling and decreases freezing point.