BigFoiz

I blew one of the interior XS-650 speakers in my Enzo and I'm looking for a replacement. As far as I can see, they are sold only in pairs but I only need one. Anyone happen to have an extra one that they would part with? PM me if you want to sell one...

Let me know, I'm happy to order them and send one your way

I found a pair for $159 so I may just buy the pair and sell the other one if anyone else needs one

I pulled it and tested it with my multimeter just to confirm that it's toast

I have a short in the AUX/USB input cable connected to my head unit (Clarion CMD8 I believe). I would like to replace it so I crawled in to take a look behind the head unit and it appears that the cable can't be simply unplugged from the back of the stereo. Seems to be a permanent part of the stereo so I'm wondering how I can replace that. Is it something I can cut and splice to a new one?? Just curious if anyone else has had this problem and how they fixed it. Thanks!

I actually figured it out. What was throwing me for a loop was that the USB plug was coming out of the radio directly into the port with the AUX port that's mounted by the stereo. Once I got to looking at it a little closer I realized that the whole USB cord can just be unplugged from the plastic housing (it looked as though it was a permanent part of the housing initially). So, I did get it replaced but I'm still having an issue where my starboard tower speakers don't play in AUX mode. I get sound from all other speakers except those 2. I turn to Sirius/XM and all the speakers work fine. Go figure??

Last year I bought my 2012 Enzo 233 from a dealership in Florida (I'm in Texas) sight unseen. I did a ton of research on the dealership and owner and found out they were awarded dealer of the year from Centurion a couple years ago so I knew they were legit. They also provided me with contact info for many other people who bought boats from them out of state. The guy sent me probably 100 pictures of the boat in ridiculous detail and I feel like he made it sound like it was in worse condition than it was. I was pleasantly surprised when I got it with the exception that he incorrectly advertised the ballast package that it had so I ended up having to add a bit after the fact. However, I got such a good deal on it that I didn't mind much. The dealership has a full time employee who's only job was to deliver boats and he walked over the whole boat with me so I could inspect it prior to signing and taking delivery. I was really impressed and it all worked out well. Now if this had been a private party deal there is no way I would have taken that gamble. You may want to check out the same dealers site, it's called Transition Watersports and they have a fair amount of used inventory. Good luck...

I'm glad to see that the crew is coming around to the idea of wake shaping devices. Last year I made a few posts about the one I built and people scoffed at me for putting something like that on a Centurion that is built to be listed. I gladly took the heat though considering that my surf wave is INSANE now, even on the goofy side! No shame in that...

That's true, mine's definitely using a bit more fuel but soooo worth it. Glad it worked out for you too!

You must be mistaken as there's clearly no way you can achieve a better wave without listing. Grumble, grumble, stick with what works, deep-V hull, etc etc, etc.

I've been running at 11.5 mph. The wave on the port side isn't really tall but it has a lot of push. For some reason the wave on the starboard side is a little taller and not as long...go figure. Both sides have tons of push though.

I just attach the lanyard to the transom where I normally hook the tie down. It came off once and was dragging safely a few feet behind the boat, no problems. Since I got the Cosmos handle it hasn't ever come off, even when I forgot to take it off and hit 25 mph.

I posted this in a couple places already. This is with even weight on both sides and surfgate on starboard side. I was able to ride this wave til I was so exhausted I just fell over. I've never even been able ride more than a minute before now...

The HOD handle sucks, I tried it too and it didn't hold. Buy the aluminum heavy duty Cosmos handle from Amazon, its LEGIT

I made a home-brew version for my Enzo and it works like a champ. I still list the boat just a bit, and that seems to give me the best of both worlds. All this talk about "no replacement for displacement" I don't understand. When my boat is evenly weighted I have a lot more ballast weight in the boat than when its listed so I assume (and I'm no physicist) that the boat is displacing MORE water this way. My thoughts...build your own for $30 and then go buy that Ronix bag and you'll have both.

So here is my ghetto top/end/front drawing. On the side view I didn't have enough room to draw the front plate but you get the idea from the top view. Basically you will cut out a pattern in the HDPE that looks like the side view (you need 2 of those, one for each side). Then you cut out the plate. You will need to drill a couple holes through the HDPE side pieces and into the suction cup handle then run a couple bolts through to hold it together. I just used wood screws to hold the plate to the side braces. I wanted to repost a pic of my regular wave with this contraption, I think the results speak for themselves. Happy to answer any more questions...

I don't have technical drawing like some of these guys with CAD files to upload, but I can draw a little schematic and post it. Its really easy to do

I know these boats were made to be listed for surfing but I'm telling you that I haven't been able to go ropeless until I made a suckgate. I tried pretty much every ballast configuration listed HEAVILY and with a P5 Trident board (because I weigh 240 lbs). Last night I went out and filled both QF, both PnP, and the bow sac and the goofy wave was INSANE. Not only could I drop the rope but I was surfing 15 feet behind the boat with plenty of push. my 110 lb wife was so far behind the boat I needed binoculars to see her lol. Then when we wanted to pull a regular rider, I pulled it off and put it on the other side and 30 seconds later we were off with an even better port side wave. The handling is no worse than when the boat is turned on its side IMO, maybe a little more fuel burn due to extra ballast weight but well worth it. Just my .02

There are 2 guys on my lake with brand new FS33's that keep telling me to come out and surf their boats. I have resisted thus far because I know what will happen. That's like eating a nice steak after you just got done eating a TV dinner lol...

I made one and tried it out only because my wife absolutely hates driving the boat when it's heavily listed. What I did was list the boat only moderately (about 600# more weight on surf side) and slapped the suck-gate on the opposite side. Best wave I've ever had, hands down. I pull it off and switch sides in just a few minutes. One day I'll drop the big bucks on a new boat with all the bells and whistles but for now this works great.

Don't spend $500, you can make one for $30. It works like a champ!

I have a 2012 SV233 and am having some trouble with the subwoofer. It basically cuts in and out over the course of the day out on the water. Has anyone had this problem previously? My boat has the WS sub from the factory mounted behind the kick panel but that's the extent of my knowledge. Even when its actually working, it sounds as though its buried under 3 feet of dirt, just really muffled and crappy. My old boat had a custom box with a kicker 12 under the seat and that thing hit HARD and was clear compared to this set-up. Just looking for some advice to troubleshoot and maybe improve the sound once I get it working again.

I actually did take it to a local shop but when I got there I realized that "professional" was not a word I would use to describe the guys at that shop. I wouldn't have trusted them with my bicycle lol. I'll have to keep looking

Okay so I made the rounds and didn't find a problem. I went back to the sub and checked the resistance at the plug in the back of the box. No reading. So, I pulled the speaker out again and checked the terminals. They were all rusted out (go figure, its a sealed box). I cleaned them up really well and crimped the connections tight and it works like a champ now. I had checked it earlier and it was fine but I guess I needed to jostle it around a bit more to get it to lose continuity. Any recommendations on how to set up the amp and Clarion HU to get this sub to sound decent? Its pretty dull sounding over all even when it's working.

So I pulled the sub out from behind the kick panel. Its just a WS 10" sub in a fully sealed box. No amp attached, only speaker wire going into the box. I have WS Syn6 amp mounted up under the observers seat so I'm wondering if that amp is powering all the speakers by itself. If turned the stereo on and fooled around with the box a bit. I pulled the speaker wire and reconnected it and the sub was still going in and out. Pulled the speaker out of the box to check connections to the speaker internally and it all looked good. I guess I'll take a look at that amp and wiggle some wires on that end of things.