kgordon7378

A few comments. First, when you park on level ground, your trailer should be either level or the tounge slightly higher. If the tounge is lower, when you are going down a hill, the brakes are engaging, yet cannot back off as they are surge brakes driven off the tounge. If you get a different hitch, and raise it slightly, it would eliminate the problem. Also, California trailer works sells a conversion kit to change from drum to disk. It is a complete bolt on kit, and about $400. I recently did it, and very happy with the results.

Another thing to check, especially living in Colorado is the brake fluid on the trailer brakes. If you ever need help, I am not that far from you in Littleton, CO. Just shoot me a PM.

I have a dual battery set up in my T-5 direct drive, and have the two batteries against the walkthru wall similar to h2okings pics. Above the batteries, I have a dual bank battery charger, and the isolator. I did try to put 3 batteries in there, but it took up too much room, and I prefer the room and storage. I have been looking thru my pics and cannot find any right now. I will keep looking tho

You might want to check the inside of the hull. My T-5 had the allen head, but also had two nuts on the inside holding the bolt on. I pulled them off to powdercoat the brackets. Take a look, and let us know.

Going thru the same thing. Two weeks ago, we hit a rock. Almost same damage, except nothing on the hull. Going about 25 MPH, bent the prop up good, rudder same as yours, strut looks bent, guess is driveshaft is bent. We are going thru the ins. company, as in the event there is future damage, say to the trans, then they will cover it. Yea it sucks the season is over, but I rather fork over 250 then a few grand. Even doing it myself, sourcing cheap parts, I was over 1500.

For those that need to change seals, a little trick I use after removing lots of them. Spend $6 at harbor freight (the chalenge is just this) http://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-35556.html Once you remove the tire, and hub, mount the hub back on the wheel, put the wheel face down, standing on the tire, use the tool to hook under the seal and pry out, makes quick work with no damage (the seal will need to be replaced)

As Kevin stated, it will make that noise on the trailer, as the strut is lubricated by the water. It is normal. The harmonic noise you hear might be from the prop being just slightly tweaked. This will cause the prop to "sing". Could try a different prop to see if it goes away.

I just pulled my brackets off to paint them, and they had nuts on the inside. There was just a hole in the hull, with washers on it. Might be different with the different years and models, but it could be as simple as a new bolt and nut.

Chris you are correct, however on a 1987 I doubt it would have power steering, yet I could be wrong.

West Coast Canvas in Lodi, CA does great work. My family has known them for years, and have had work done with them. I have and would again drive from Denver, CO to get work done there. Quality is key to me, as I will have to live with it for several years.

If it is in fact a closed cooling system, the hose should come into a heat exchanger, which in turn has coolant in that flows thru the engine. The sea water comes up thru the outdrive, thru the heat exchanger, then out the exhaust, or outdrive. PICs would be very helpful, as most of us on here don't own IO boats, yet there is a lot of knowledge that could help you get pointed in the correct direction.

Being that is the shaft cooling line, I would be concerned about it coming off and then overheating the shaft. What Jeremy said should work. If not, let us know.

ATK, where are you located? There are many of us across the US and up north, maybe if someone is close can give you a hand here and there.

If you have a EFI boat, why do you 'pump' the gas when starting? My understanding is the CPU controls all that, thus just turn key. It has always worked for me. It was a huge selling point with the wife when buying the boat and spending extra on EFI.

When sanding the deck, I used a fine grit paper, and it was very slick, thus I sanded it again with a coarse grit, then oiled it, and it is not slick.