jtryon

if you have the Black Scorpion in your Elite V, i followed this procedure last year here in the cold northeast (boat is kept in a non-heated, detatched garage): i skipped the v-drive fluid and trans fluid change in the fall and did the other stuff. add Stabil or Startron to your gas tank before starting this procedure, and fill the tank up. i just pulled the 7 blue drain plugs and didn't put antifreeze in, but have a coathanger on hand to run inside the plug holes that you pull out to drain, to make sure there's nothing keeping them from draining completely.

thanks @Wylie_Tunes. i want to free up some storage space because i have 2x12's in a ported box taking up most of the space under the passenger seating area; will my bass go to crap by going to a single free-air 12 or 15" (if it fit) in that location? i'm definitely not looking to win contests, just have respectable sound.

for anyone who's done this cut, is the area under the footwell an area that gets water/moisture from the bilge area during normal boat use? i'm thinking of doing a free-air sub there but don't want it to get destroyed if that area gets damp at all.

Troy do you have an a-plate or double winged plate in that pic?

i have the sideswipe covers that came with my typhoon that are yours if you want to pay shipping. do you have an adjustable trim tab? if so, have the trim tab all the way up and no bow weight. lean it for the best wave if you're sticking with that weight for the season--full center ballast and full ballast only on the side you're surfing, with people also sitting on that side. upgrade bags in the off-season

yes, i've been told they can generally go down 1.5-2 without a problem. 100% call Nettle Props in TX, they are the best in the business. talk to the owner JT if you can, he'll give the right recommendation on the pitch to go to for your setup. do you have a 1.46:1 vdrive or 1:1?

you probably have a prop ding if you get a shudder when hammering down--it may not even be an obvious ding. as far as the pulling, the deep-v's are weight-sensitive and that could be why if it's not evenly weighted?

i use and love skisafe.

when you pulled the housing apart to install the new impeller, were there round scoring marks on the water intake side where the old impeller was rotating? I would bet $100 that's the issue. i had that problem a month ago when i replaced my impeller--old one was still working, i did it as maintenance. turns out they went to a newer design on the pumps where you get a stainless plate that fits over that intake half that gets scored up over time. the scoring causes the pump not to prime, hence the lack of cooling at idle. when you bump up the rpms it pulls enough water through to cool. i'll attach a pic of my old pump for reference. i priced out whole pumps, half pumps, etc etc and this guy was way cheaper than anyone else. he shipped a newer-style intake half of the pump with the stainless plate and took my old one in return for a discount. give him a call and he'll take care of ya. Steve - C & S Marine Pumps Inc 850-380-1731

you won't even think about it after a couple times out. 3M 5200 baby!

yes you'd be fine with two on one inlet, but if you're not trying to save money i'd do individual inlets for each pump to maximize flow.

if you're able to source a new PP screen for the stock Wakeboard Pro system, let me know because everyone tells me that i have to upgrade to stargazer to get a new screen.

add an a-plate where the plate is on the starboard side and that should clean up the port wave. search "a-plate" here or using google and add the term centurion, and you should see plenty of threads on it.

need more info--what motor? did you check power at the battery? check power while running to compare?

i have an '07 typhoon and here are my thoughts: leave the center tank, it's impossible to get to anyway. check that the empty pump for the center tank works--there's an access hole for it just inside the flip-up passenger seat so you can check that it turns on when you flip the empty switch. wakemakers has some 1280lb bags that fit perfectly in my rear lockers and i believe the Avy has the same locker space. measure yours and buy the biggest bag that will fit there, so you don't have to do it twice. are you going to list for surfing on the regular side? that boat will put out a killer wave with 1280 on the surf corner alone. on the goofy side you will have to get creative with lead or with a combination of walkthrough bags. for ballast pumps, i drilled a new 1" thru-hull and added a Rule 209FDP which is a 1600gph pump. it fills the 1280 in 6 minutes flat with 1" hose. mine was already set up for 3 pumps off a 1" manifold, so i left the tsunami 1200 that was there to fill the center tank and added another Rule 209FDP to fill the goofy side, and removed the 3rd manifold spot. for drain pumps (other than the center drain which i left stock) i used tsunami 1200's which drain those same bags in 8 minutes. does yours just have one fill pump? it should be located under the center rear seat in front of the vdrive. other things to check are maintenance items since you don't know what the PO did. definitely change the impeller, oil and filter, fuel filter, trans fluid, vdrive fluid, check the serpentine belt or at least get a spare. there's a good thread on here with details for all that stuff. also, look up the "IAC valve" threads on here to get an idea of the symptoms of that in case it ever happens to you because that's fairly common on that year boat. here's some part numbers if it saves you time, and if you have the 330 black scorpion: Impeller - 47-862232A2 Oil - Rotella 15w40 non-synthetic Oil filter - NAPA Gold FIL 1060, Purolator PL34631, Mobil1 M1-302 Fuel water separator – Quicksilver 802893Q01 Serpentine belt - Dayco 5060880, Napa 25-060878

i have a different motor, but mine looks like an oil filter and is located on the lower port rear of the motor, near the raw water pump.

no. wake shaper goes on the side of the boat to clean up the wave on the opposite side, while an a-plate cleans up the wash from the prop.

thanks. i have the template and have someone that said they're going to make me one, but i don't know when it's going to be completed. my goofy side wake is super washed out so i definitely need it.

i ran a single exhaust exit out of the back of mine like most boats are coming with now after pulling out Sideswipe. 4" to 3.5" reducers after the hose coming off the exhaust risers, 3.5" elbows to a tee, single exit with flapper. i agree that 740's will leave you wanting an upgrade sooner rather than later.

great to know, thanks!

I know that many people upgrade to the GPS version of PP and am hoping that someone has an original Wakeboard Pro 3.5" display in good working order sitting around? Mine is starting to lose pixels and is hard to read, despite working fine. I recently upgraded the wiring harness to the servo motor, the servo motor itself and the speedo cable so I'd like to keep this paddlewheel system working for a few more years. This would be for a 2007 Typhoon. TIA!

did you change to Stargazer? that would be good if the Stargazer screen is backwards compatible with Wakeboard Pro.

go as big as you can on the sacs...it will be worth it to spend the extra money now than to do it twice. my typhoon fits a 1280lb wakemakers bag in each locker perfectly, but i did pull out the sideswipe which made a little extra room. here's the link, and it's the 50"x25"x25" bag which is the biggest "UniversalFIT" bag they offer. https://www.wakemakers.com/wakemakers-rear-lbs-ballast-bag.html

you must have an a-plate on your avy? that's a CLEAN goofy wake

the yellow center drain pump is a mayfair 1000gph. mine was bad too and i replaced the cartridge with a newer red one here. when you get the new one just pull the cartridge out of the newer red housing and install it in the old yellow housing so you don't have to swap hoses and fittings--it works perfectly. there's a horizontal locking tab with a small screw on the side of the pump housing that you need to hold open just a little, then you can twist the cartridge out with the two big tabs on the top counter-clockwise to get it out of the housing. it's hard to get both hands in through that access hole, so what i did was to loosen that screw on the horizontal tab just a little so that it wouldn't keep locking back into place. leave the hose attached to the old housing as you're only replacing the cartridge. it only takes a 1/2" or so turn to get it free to pull out. the unfortunate part of all this is that it will be much easier to install the new one if you pull up the center floor to get at the wiring, but if you cut the brown and black pump wires close enough to the old pump, you might have enough wire available to splice in the new pump to those wires without pulling the floor up.