jtryon

dimensions for my typhoon are 10" height, 26" width under the passenger seat, so you can start there on wakemakers' site and get whatever length you need. check here, for instance they have a 50"L x 25"W x 10"H which gives you 500lbs, or a 60" long for 610lbs, or 70" long for 710lbs.

since you're halfway there, i'd just leave the tanks out and add ballast bags that fill the rear lockers. add two thru-hulls and pumps on their own switches to fill those new bags, and use the existing pump just for the center tank. that will make everything less complicated and give you better fill times. yours probably has what's referred to as a sprinkler valve, if you want to search here for more info on it. most guys just rip it out and upgrade it though.

i would definitely take the boat if you're essentially getting it for free plus your payout--you can probably have someone lined up to buy it for $5-10K within a week. was the motor pickled as soon as it was pulled from the water, i.e. got all the water out, no water in the oil after running it afterwards? if the motor checks out and has good compression still, that's huge. can you take your $47k, keep the boat yourself and drop it off at a shop to redo the important items after shopping around for better prices? you should be able to replace all the important stuff like gauges, perfect pass, etc. with new ones just as a peace of mind and still come out well on top.

13-year-old thread brought back to life, wow! since it's bumped up, there's a great thread on this site called "winterized my black scorpion" with everything a scorpion owner needs to know on proper winterization.

that's either the raw water intake or paddlewheel location i think...strange that either of those would leak when taking it out of the water. i can see a small amount coming out from there if it's the raw water intake, basically anything that didn't circulate though the motor, but that would be over in a few seconds. it would make more sense if it's the paddlewheel and the water that's coming out is from a bad seal between the paddlewheel housing and hull, so that's just the water draining back out from your bilge which had gotten full while the boat was in the water. check under your rear center flip-up seat and you should see the v-drive, and right in front of that towards the bow should be your paddlewheel that looks like a round black housing with a couple wires going into it. see if that feels loose? pour some water on that and see if it drains out from that same spot.

just pull out the valves and run one bag off the existing pump, and add another thru-hull and pump for the other bag. never worry about it again

i would check that the throttle cable from the servo isn't loose first. my old supra would have an issue like yours maybe once a season and it was always that the adjustment nut for the servo cable backed off a little.

post #7 in that thread from Bigcatpt goes into great detail with a diagram and everything.

i'd check your IAC valve or at minimum clean the IAC muffler. that's a pretty common issue on these motors that has been documented here. good thread on it here: http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/9368-guys-with-iac-issues-tell-me-what-you-think/

ugh sorry to hear that.

it's the Skylon Tribal, 2 ⅜” diameter tubes if you're adding accessories.

you'll be better off just adding another 1" thru-hull, but it would work. you could run two just fine off a bigger thru-hull like a 1.5" though, and re-use the 1" for the center ballast.

https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/forum/classified-group-buy-section/gear-for-sale-by-owner/631466-acme-1579-prop i'm not affiliated, but this was the prop that acme recommended to me for heavy ballast on my typhoon but i went with a little more aggressive 1619. i'm so tempted to buy it at the new shipped price of $200 just to have as a backup, but i also got my stock prop re-pitched to 14.25 last season as well so i should save the money. someone here should grab it quick though!

i'd go option 1. yellow will be a tough resale and is a love/hate for ownership. option 1 and remove the SURF decal and tribal decal and you will have a nice-looking, clean boat that looks to be in great shape. the plumbing is already there for sacs, so if the ones that it comes with aren't huge you can always just replace them with enzo sacs and be good to go.

check for scoring on the water pump when you have the impeller changed. if you feel ridges in the intake side of the pump where the impeller spins, have that half of the pump replaced otherwise it may not prime at idle and you will overheat.

any before/after pics? can you detail the method you used, i.e. 800, 1200, 1800 or whatever, followed by which buffing product(s) and equipment?

I'm on the other side and would look for a better deal. First, he's not giving you a "friend deal" at that price--you're almost doing him a favor High hours, so I'd want to know he was meticulous with oil, trans fluid, v-drive fluid and impeller changes. I'm guessing he wasn't if the interior was left to die along the way. The steering could just require a new cable which isn't a huge deal if you're doing it yourself. Gelcoat fading is going to take some man-hours with a buffer, but that's really expensive if you are having someone else do it. If it's also a walk-through in the rear and not a C4 I wouldn't even consider it.

agreed. when doing my typhoon build i had a lot of questions that sat unanswered, so i just had to dig for the info here and on other sites. i at least want to start a thread outlining what i've found out during my build once it's complete in hopes it might help someone else down the road.

i'll PM ya

no issues in my '07 Typhoon with 1300lb bags and individual aerators for draining. when you run the new drain and vent lines just run them up high and to the opposite side of the boat to keep any siphoning from happening.

so that water only flows the direction that it's intended to. when used between a fill pump and bag it keeps the water from siphoning back out through the pump. they should be installed at a high point in the hose. Wylie is right too--impeller pumps are more expensive than aerators but you could do two impeller pumps and only have to drill one new hole. ideally you will want to use pump timers for impeller pumps though so that you don't burn them up if they run dry, and they draw more current so you'll need to make sure to use the appropriate size wiring when hooking them up.

the minimum "budget" way i would do this is to add a manifold to the existing thru-hull and add two tsunami 1200's to it, filling all 3 bags off that thru-hull. thru-hull hardware is expensive so you will save a lot of cost there, and if you don't care about speed those 1200's should be fine sharing the same 1" thru-hull. that's hoping that it's a 1" thru-hull and not 3/4"? a manifold would just be your cost in plastic plumbing parts from home depot so that's cheap. tsunami 1200's are like $40 so you have $80 there for two new and fast pumps. add in some 1" fittings, one check valve for each line, and 1" hose for the bags, and 3/4" fittings and 3/4" hose for vents and you have the fill part taken care of. i've found hose cheapest here or here. for draining and venting you'll need to put some thought into it if you really don't want to drill new holes. ideally, i would buy two new drain ports and install them on opposite sides of the boat, and drain the rear bags on the side opposite they are installed on (this keeps them from ever siphoning). for this you will buy two more tsunami's that attach to the bottom port of each rear bag, so $80 again there. i wouldn't try to use one pump for this because then you can never control if you're trying to list the boat to surf on one side, etc. i definitely wouldn't drain them into the bilge like you were saying. you can likely get by with venting each rear bag to a wye on the existing center ballast vent or bilge hose. venting is necessary so that the bag doesn't fill with air, and acts as an overflow when filling. add check valves here as well. add two Carling fill and drain DPDT switches and some wire and you should be good to go. you have a $30K+ boat, i wouldn't try to shortcut spending $500ish to do this right, even the "cheap" way. ask santa to make all your presents be the stuff above!

black scorpion 330? are you getting good constant 14.2-14.3 voltage with the motor running? have you checked the fuel pressure? there are two fuel pumps from what i hear, one in the tank and one at the rear port side of the motor (black scorpion anyway) near the raw water pump. i'm assuming you've done the easy stuff first like fuel filter, plugs and wires since you also did the cap and rotor? if not i'd do all that as well as the IAC valve and maybe the CPS.

hey adam, here's a couple of relevant threads...

same here other than, between steps 5 and 6 i get it up to operating temp then pull the spark arrestor off and spray fogging oil into the throttle body until the engine stalls to effectively fog the cylinders.