grizfan

We usually take advantage of our nice sandy beaches and set up chairs, coolers, horseshoes, etc. So we wakeboard in shifts so everyone isn't trapped on the boat. I will keep you posted on how it works out.

Oops. Already pulled the trigger on the 537. It was $225, so not much of a risk. I will keep my eye out for a 1579.

I wanted to try the 537....I know it's uncool, but I don't surf. My group strictly wakeboards with an occasional wakeskater and trick wakeskier. I want a little more hole shot but not so extreme that it would kill my cruise speed. My boat came with an 817 which is a pretty extreme prop. I poured thru some posts and saw that it was a 1 1/8" and LH.

Hey Guys, I found a used prop I've been wanting to try. I wanted to run the specs by you before I purchase somethig unusable to me. 2006 Centurion Elite V C4 with Black Scorpion powerplant. 1 1/8" shaft and left hand rotation? thanks in advance.

I had to make my own template for my Elite V and I am very happy with the results. It turned out perfect and fits very snug. If I had to do it again, I would have made one minor adjustment. I stopped my carpet at the drivers cupholder (as the factory carpet does) but I wish I would have extended the DECKadence to the kick panel as WakeDoc has illustrated in his first picture. My own fault, so I have to live with it. No biggie. Thanks again WakeDoc for putting the Crew Deal together!! My old carpet was toast and was not looking forward to replacing the factory carpet to have it just fall apart again.

That surprises me. After adding the cooler, my avalanche's trany running temps dropped 20 degrees with daily driving. Trailered the Elite-V (loaded with 5 days of camping gear) 450 miles with decent uphill grades and saw a high temp of 201... in August. Before the trany cooler I had seen temps of 220 driving over Mt Hood, and I wasn't towing a thing.

A transmission cooler for a GM 5.3 is a must in my opinion. It has drastically reduced trany temps in my Chevy Avalanche. Cost was minimal, $100 for the kit. Cheap insurance. I tow my boat locally at least 3 times a week and it is more than adequate. If I trailered longer distances with greater frequency I would definately upgrade to a 2500 or 3500. I just don't want to drive one of those beasts to work everyday.

My tower makes no noise but it oscillates while under way. It doesn't feel unsafe, I just worry about too much movement eventually causing some spider cracks in the gel coat. Non so far, but just a concern.

Anyone else with a Swoop Tower have side to side shaking issues? Is this normal? My tower is the Swoop tower with the oval horizontal crossbars. Interesting discussion I had this weekend. A friend who has a Sanger with a different style Swoop Tower mentioned that my tower shook from side to side while under way. He said his Swoop is rock solid. I guess I never thought about it too much until now. Another friend has an Avalanche with the old Skylon Swoop Tuna Tower and his is rock solid too. I can grab my tower and rock it side to side. I'd say almost an 3/4" of deflection. Thinking back the tower has always been a little shaky, but now slightly more pronounced with (4) Bullet Hollowpoint 7.7s on the rack. I have tightened all the tower mounting bolts. All the hardware is nice and tight. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Where did you get your strainer H? Also, is the brass "T" you used to stub off the block available at Lowe's or Home Depot?

I found the wire leads for the shower last night. They are under the rear seat under on the starboard side. They ran a power and a ground on my Elite V. I have the Black Scorpion 330. I have not installed anything at this point. Just laying everything out. I am going off of a how-to done by H20 King on this site. Good luck

I'm getting ready for my shower install after reading a couple of the how-to-do threads. It appears Centurion has already added a fuse holder, fuse, and run accessory wires off the fusebox to the toggle cluster for the shower..it is even labeled "shower". It appears I can simply plug my new Shower Toggle into this. Am I correct in thinking that they have already run the power supply that feeds the pump? If this is correct, I would assume that they ran the power wire(to pump) back into the engine bay somewhere? Any clue where to start looking? Looking at the instructions that came with the heatercraft shower. Pin 7 is the ground (black wire) Pin 2 is power in (orange/white stripe) Pin 3 is power to pump (Tan with stripe) and the blue/white stripe would be light for toggle. I assume I need to chase down the tan wire and I am set. Thanks for your input

I bet True is right. You are probably missing the rubber blocks. My seats do not shift around at all. I do hear what you are saying about the seat behind the drivers seat. That particular cushion has a small overhang and if you step on it just right the seat cushion teeter totters. I installed two stainless hinges and this has helped stabilize the cushion. I have seen others on the site go the extra mile and install a shock as well.

Another budget option for you could be Aerial if the DIY doesn't work out. I went with Aerial board racks just to get some budget racks on my boat until I save up some money for the Sampson spinning racks. I had a pleasant experience with them and purchased 3 different racks and 2 different mirrors. They all came with numerous different rubber collars that have worked well with my Swoop Tower (1 7/8"). I really liked the mirror from them due to the quick release and the price. Fit and finish were top notch for the price and they have lasted me 3 summers so far and still look like new with a little aluminum polish. Good Luck..