Chevypower

Hey guys, I need some help. I have a 2003 Hurricane Elite V. I have about as good of a wake as you can get with it without sinking the boat. My 10 year old daughter and 13 year old son can surf without the rope, and my son is already moving into a more advanced board. The 21foot boat is just to small for the fam and friends, and I would like to get as good a boat with as good a wave as I can for the next 6 to 8 years I have the kids in the house wanting to spend family time together. I am staying under 50K and located in Southern Oregon. I have looked at 2010ish Enzo online, but don't know the difference between the SV, FS and whatnot. I'm not sure if this is even the boat you would suggest. Im looking to go 23ft for more room, and as wide a boat as possible, because I know my Elite V is skinny and really only seats 6 comfortably. So what would you suggest I look for? I assume online is my only avenue for finding something, and most boats will be in California anyway. Maybe I can find something in Reno area.

Thanks guys, I will pull the nut off the shaft and see what prop is on it now and report back.

Hey guys, I have a 2003 Hurricane running the stock prop at 4k feet. Surfing with about 1500 lbs of ballast. I have an aftermarket 4 blade aluminum prop that I can't identify. It has the numbers 0104 on the shaft, and 1318LS-X1 on it also. I would upload the picture bit it won't. Can someone help me ID this prop and decide if it's worth installing?

Infinitysurf, I have the stock prop now, but don't have much out of the hole when trying to pull up a surfer.

When I purchased the boat it had this prop on it. The owner of the boat only used the boat on Shasta Lake in California (800 foot elevation) , and I only run the boat at Lost Creek Lake in Oregon at 1800 foot elevation. Sooo, I took this 4 blade aluminum prop off, put the factory 3 blade prop on and ran it. Now that we only surf i'm looking for a better bottom end performing prop and wanted to see if this one will work. I'll post pic if i can figure out the formating.

Most my gauges didn't work in my 03. This spring I rewired the back of the gauges and they all work now. Bad ground or power wire connection was all I was having. Everything was tight, but I still cut off EVERY connector and replaced new. I also ran a distribution block for the power, and ran a new power wire from block to each gauge. I did the same for the ground and the same for the accessory wire (lights).

Hey guys, So I'm done with the dual battery / Perko switch install. I also purchased the NOKO 2 bank battery charger but have not installed it yet. I'll share pictures in another DIY. Now I'm on to installing my Faria Pilot 1 replacement. I'll add pictures and part numbers of everything once installed since there seems to be a ton of questions on what to replace it with. My question isn't how to install the thru hull transducer, but HOW DO I INSTALL THE WATER TEMP SENSOR. It looks like I would just drill a hole in the back of the boat for the wire, but how do I seal up the hole, and how do I glue the sensor onto the outside of the boat?

Thanks bud.

Thanks, You just fill up the hole that you drill and run the wire through and call it good?

I have the same boat as you do and just installed a second battery and switch. I put the battery in the locker closest to the seat. I just screwed down the battery box, left a couple of inches between the box and sidewall to run the wires. I then made a "wall" out of wood, covered it with black carpet and mounted it under the center back seat for the switch, relay and stereo relay. I'll mount my dual battery charger under the seat opposite the factory battery, in the black cubby so after a weekend you can just pull the wires out and plug it in. Im also going to install digital volt gauges because the stock gauge sucks. Make sure you get the newest Perko switch with the relay so it will separate the house and starting battery when you are sitting listening to the stereo. If you want pictures just ask and get them for you.

There are only 3 options. 1) it starts at 0 due to it being new 2) you can have it set to a specific number when ordering 3) it will reset automatically when installed I have not purchased or installed, so not sure, but you can ask when purchasing and find out.

Are you still looking? I just got these links today from Fariabeede. I spoke with Jason and he tells me there is no way to rebuild the pilot gauge anymore and no 4" depth, water and air temp gauge exists, only the 2". I told him the pilot gauge is out, and my others are not working properly. He gave me a link to the 2" depth with air and water temp, and the link to get replacement gauges. Now I need to find the 4" to 2" converter piece. Hope this helps. O, and the 2" gauge uses the same transducer ext. as the pilot did. http://www.boatersland.com/far-13752.html http://greatlakesskipper.com/ski-centurion-gsc019a-faria-silver-black-oversized-boat-multi-function-speedometer-gauge http://greatlakesskipper.com/ski-centurion-faria-gtc021a-marine-oversized-inboard-boat-multi-function-tachometer-gauge

This is my second full season with the 03 Hurricane and the last 2 trips out, the bilge is running at least half the time we are just floating letting the kids swim. I have used a wrench on the T handle to try and tighten it really good, and have the plug to the point I don't want to tighten it any more. Is there any other location I'm unaware of that water can get in? I've looked under the back seat and it appears water is filling from the back of the boat as it slowly creeps up to the transmission.

I'ts me again, with another problem on my boat. I just got the water leak fixed this past week by tightening up the nut on the V drive shaft, and then about an hour out on the lake, the serpentine belt broke. It made a huge mess as it was all tore up like when you loose a tire on the freeway, black shavings everywhere. Anyway, I just put this new belt on when replacing a squeaking pulley a couple weeks ago, so had the belt I took of as a spare. So I'm back there putting the replacement one on, in the lake, when my buddy said, why did it break? So everything spins except the water pump pulley in the bottom back corner of the motor (I think this is where the impeller goes). I can kind of turn in back and forth about a quarter inch but it's not moving after that. So I had him tow me in and load the boat up, run down and grab a different boat and finish the day out. So I have a guy coming by to look at it and try and fix it for me, but have any of you guys ever had this pulley stop spinning like that?

put the impeller back in tonight and when putting the belt on my mechanic found the upper motor water pump is hard to turn. We pulled it out, and it has casting numbers GM 10108455 but a google search found nothing for this casting number. I did find some references to it being a Small Block Chevy water pump, but I'm sure that Napa won't be able to match it up and i'll be stuck paying the $200+ dealer cost on this thing.

I took the impeller out last night and every fin was broke off. All the pieces were still in the housing, so I don't have to backflush and try and get anything out, just need a new impeller. I matched the factory belt to the DAYCO belt, it was a couple numbers off from what others on the site have said. I'll post the broken (oem) belt number and the DAYCO belt number when I get home so anyone doing a search will find it.

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, this weekend I checked and I wasn't getting any water leaking in, so i'm happy with that. Not sure why you would need a drip coming out, I just tightened the nut about 1 turn and it seemed to stop the leak. What is the purpose of having it drip 1 drop every 10 seconds, that's not lubricating anything, it's a seal.

Superdtf (hilarious by the way), I have read a ton on it, but never read anywhere about the nut being tightened down. I did find a thread about a guys boat that had constant drips so he turned it a quarter turn, but mine is a constant running of water, a little stream of water coming out, so I did a full turn. I'll see what it looks like this Saturday. I'll have to look up the price on the PSS vs. changing out the packing if it still leaks

So my boat doesn't have a grease zerk on it, and the mechanic in Medford said to loosen the jam nut and tighten the packing nut. I'm doing it now, but the big packing nut has already spun 1 full turn and didn't know if I could overdue it or not. Any experience with this???

OK

OK so I had the boat out today and up to this point have not done anything. Found a solid stream of water coming out directly under the transmission. So there is a shaft coming out of the bottom of the trans, looks to have a large nut on it that's threaded onto another shaft, and then goes into a rubber hose with hose clamps on it and from what I can feel, the rubber hose goes through the bottom of the boat. I'm assuming this is the drive shaft. The water is coming from what looks like between the nut and threads. Is this where i'm suppose to grease it like you guys are all talking about? I couldn't find any nut to remove or grease zerk. I did find a grease zerk for the rudder.

So the "how to" video just said to remove the nut and put grease in until the old stuff starts to come out. From an automotive standpoint, to do it right, you keep adding grease until all the old stuff is gone and the new stuff is squirting out, then you stop. I take it that's not the case with this seal?

Will a Ronix One Skimmer 4'10" be a good beginner surf board for a 5'8" 190lb guy? Found one on craigslist for $450.

Thanks guys, I'll look in the crew store.