mac19

Thank you in advance for any advice! I have a 2012 sv233 and I did not run it last summer it sat in storage winterized the last 15-16month. I want to dewinterize it this weekend and change the oil etc. I’m wanting to drain the fuel that is currently in the tank and I’m looking for some insight on how to easily drain it? Also any additional insight you guys might have or precautions after an extended period of winterization prior to firing it up? Respectfully-Mac19

Thanks Rhino! We pulled the switch panels out today and compared the wiring and the switch is definitely wired differently than in my boat which functions correctly. He's going to take it into the dealer and get it sorted. It was wired that way from the factory so I told him to give centurion a call as well, who knows they may help him out as well. Thanks for the feed back guys!

Thanks for the heads up Wylie!! I'll have a peak at with him tomorrow and see what we can come up with. I've got the same boat with the rear bags plumbed in with a reversible jabsco so we can hopefully compare the wiring. If it is indeed a reversible pump I'll have a look at the switch wiring and see what we can come up with. I appreciate you taking the time to reply!

Hey Crew I've got a friend with a 2012 sv233 and his jabsco pump fills wether the switch is toggled in the fill or empty position. I'm assuming this is a problem with the switch. Could it be just that the switch is wired wrong or is the switch toast? I'm hoping to have a chance to look at it with him tomorrow but was hoping to get a jump on the trouble shooting with your guys help. So I gathered som additional info from him. The jabsco was originally plumbed to a bow bag but has been repurposed to fill rear bags as the boat didn't come with any rear locker bags or pumps for them. I'm assuming that the front bow bag was setup to drain with the reversable jabsco as he said there was no drain pump attached to the bow bag like there are on his mid plug and play bags under the side seats. Can anyone confirm that the bow bags were plumbed in using the reversable jabsco to drain it?

I'll Give Shell and Gloria a call tomorrow and see what I can find out. Hoping to save myself a 5hr drive to a dealer for the swap.

Yup I did see your video, Thanks for posting that. I did lots of searching but no definitive answer on wether the the valve swap was plug and play other than cutting the engine divider to fit.

After a bunch of searching On the forum I could not come up with a definitive conclusion... I know someone will be able to clear this up and I thank you for taking time to respond. I have a 2012 sv233 and I'm negotiating a set of Valterra valves to replace my faulty Drainmaster valves on my QuickFill system. Fineline wants to send them to a dealer to be installed rather than me handling it myself. The last couple sets of drainmasters I swapped out myself as I'm 4-5hrs drive from a dealer. 1. Is the Valterra swap similar to swapping the Drainmaster valves? 2. Other than notching the engine divider is there anything involved in the physical install other than the four bolts that originally secured the Drainmaster valves. 3. Is the wiring as simple as disconnecting the Drainmaster quick connect wiring harness and reconnecting the new Valterra wiring quick connect plug. Or is there additional wiring required? 4. What other unforeseen issues might I encounter during the swap? Thank you for your time in advance! Respectfully -mac19

We get water in through the screw holes that join the upper and lower hull together. When we're loaded up the rear 2' of rub rail is just under the surface. To confirm that's your issue unload your ballast enough to keep your run rail above water and ride like that for a session and see if your storage are stays dry.

I had a similar audible alarm on my 2012 sv233 but was able to pull up the engine codes on my screen under engine diagnostics. It ended up be some obscure low voltage alarm that centurion had only seen a few times. I took it to a dealer they hooked the laptop up to the ECM cleared the alarm and haven't ever had it again in the last few years.

After a bunch of searching On the forum I could not come up with a definitive conclusion... I know someone will be able to clear this up and I thank you for taking time to respond. I have a 2012 sv233 and I'm negotiating a set of Valterra valves to replace my faulty Drainmaster valves on my QuickFill system. Fineline wants to send them to a dealer to be installed rather than me handling it myself. The last couple sets of drainmasters I swapped out myself as I'm 4-5hrs drive from a dealer. 1. Is the Valterra swap similar to swapping the Drainmaster valves? 2. Other than notching the engine divider is there anything involved in the physical install other than the four bolts that originally secured the Drainmaster valves. 3. Is the wiring as simple as disconnecting the Drainmaster quick connect wiring harness and reconnecting the new Valterra wiring quick connect plug. Or is there additional wiring required? 4. What other unforeseen issues might I encounter during the swap? Thank you for your time in advance! Respectfully -mac19

I switched from the stock ACME 1847 to the 1617 and so far love it! Lost some top end speed but I'm never running up there anyway. Amazing Hole shot and absolutely no prop spin or cavitation out of the hole anymore even when we're running large amounts of weight on our SV233.

I was actually thinking of doing the same thing pulling back carpet and siliconing the back few feet.

Well it appears the water is just coming in through the rub rail area I think. We have it loaded up so the back few feet of rub rail is submerged most of the time and it appears to be entering through that area.

My 21012 sv233 had two engine faults that popped up while on our holidays today and I was hoping someone on here might know what it means and wether a guy can safely continue to run my boat... The two codes are DTC606:MICROPROCESSOR FAIL DTC650:MIL OPEN they both came in simultaneously with a red Stop sign. I stopped shut the boat off turned the battery switch to the off position and waited a bit and then again restarted the boat. The stop sign was no longer present and nor was the second Fault DTC650:MIL OPEN. I continued to surf with the boat for the next 30min before we headed home. The boat seemed to be running like normal other than the audible alarm beep would beep every minute or so, but no new faults or anything were coming in. Does anyone have any insight into what these alarms/faults would be caused by and what they mean? Thanks in advance for your help.

Any word yet Zap?