silverfish

Update: Took the boat in to a dealer and got it hooked to diagnostic computer. The problem was the Knock 1 sensor. Replaced both knock sensors and problem solved. They were $26 each at the local parts store and easily installed myself in about 30 seconds. I knew it had to be something simple and easy but it has to be hooks to diagnostic computer to find the problem.

Close, it's a 68

https://texarkana.craigslist.org/boa/5772265796.html This is my boat. Building a new house and need the extra cash. Will replace it with another Centurion when I get over the money crunch of the house project.

No I haven't found the issue yet. I disconnected both batteries and left them disconnected for for several days thinking it might reset the computer but it still does it. About every 5-7 minutes of run time on the engine that warning pops up on my screen. I can push the arrow button beside my screen and it goes away. Nothing at all wrong with the boat or engine. I assume it's some sort of bad map sensor or something like that but it has to be hooked to a computer at a dealership to find out. I'm 3 hours from the closest dealership so I've just been dealing with it. Sucks tho.

Yes you can use your reversible pump to fill and empty your ballast bags through the same intake fitting in the bottom of the boat. The advantage of having the empty lines go through the side of the boat is seeing the water empty and knowing when your bags are empty because the water stops coming out of the fitting. Otherwise you would have to keep looking at your bags to see when they are empty if it's going back out the bottom of the boat. You need a check valve on the fill line and the empty line to keep it from drawing air. I also put a third check valve on the vent line in my system. This system I built works flawlessly, no regrets. I don't have to look under a seat or open any compartments, just flip switches and turn the y valves. Nobody in the boat has to move around for me to fill or empty bags and I can see the water emptying out over the side of the boat so I know when bags are completely empty. Best thing I ever did on my boat.

I posted this thread in the general section when I didn't get any responses here. Here is the link to it... http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php/topic/10492-soulcraft-fin-setups/page-3#entry139682

Good to know. I'm sure mine is a similar issue.

Good to know. I'm sure mine is a similar issue.

I've been getting that same message on my 2011 Centurion Elite V. All vitals are perfect, engine is running perfect. Beep and message comes across the top of my screen sometimes every 5 minutes sometimes not for 20 minutes it varies. Been fighting it all summer. Planning to take it in to a dealer to read codes after the season is over but after reading your post I'm wondering if I should or not since your dealer said no codes showed up. I sure hate to drive 3 hours each way to a service center just to have them find nothing wrong!

Gotcha. Like I said it's been a while since I've messed with all this stuff. Thanks for the help.

So just bridge it to run two speakers on each channel?

They are Pro 60s not the coax version. They have a woofer and a hlcd horn tweeter

I bought my boat used and it already had 4 Wetsounds 6.5" tower speakers installed but the amp they used is horrible. I'm thinking a Wetsounds Syn4 would be the best choice to run all 4 of them. They don't make these tower speakers anymore so there is no specs on them on their website. Anybody got a better suggestion that the Syn4? That's what I had in my last boat but it was powering two Rev10s which is whole other world lol. Maybe that smaller amp they have would be better, I think its called the HT4. I'm sure several of you have experience in this and can chime in. I haven't built a system in a long time, last two boats I've had someone already had the system set up.

Nope. To be fair I haven't taken to a dealership yet though. I plan to do that this fall or winter.

Nobody has been able to tell me anything. They all say it needs to be hooked to the computer diagnostic software. It's got to be some sort of sensor. Mine is still doing it. Hopefully I can get it to a dealer after the season is over.