Waterdog14

I took off work early today to try to get some video with a halfway decent amount of weight in the boat. It was just me and my trusty helper Coda, 750# in Port Locker, 580# in walk-thru locker, 400# on top of the walk-thru and of course the center tank full. So after listening to myself after uploading this video I realized I sound like a jackass but I really am cool as a drafty toilet. The wave was pretty decent and it will only be better when I switch out the 750# for a 1100# and the 400# in the walk-thru for and 800# sac. I know I can get the wave awesome on either side by listing the crap out of the boat to the rails but this way I can evenly weight the boat and switch back & forth in a minute or two. The new acme 525 prop is awesome hands & fist better than the OJ 13x13 I was running. Well anyways here is the video of the surf gate in action: http://youtu.be/hWGM48R35FY

As far as I know there are basically two Fly High Bow Sacs. One is designed to fit under the bow seats shaped like a V that is rated at 650#'s and the other is a heart shaped sac designed to sit on top of the bow seats rated at 1,000#'s.

Thanks it definitely looks and works better than my original design. Finally got a chance to go out and test it today. It was just me and I had to hurry to get to a dinner so I only filled the center tank, 750 in the port locker and a 580 under the walk-through locker, maybe 1500 lbs at most so the wave should be really good when I have time to fill all the bags and a few people. I took a quick video I did vary speeds from about 9.5-12mph I will upload later. I am definitely sold on for even weight loading and the ability to switch from goofy to regular by just pulling in one gate and flipping out the other.

I did some messing around with a surf gate last summer for my Avalanche after reading some of the DIY posts. I had pretty good results with getting a good goofy surf wave so I decided to make a permanent mounting system that I can adjust the gate and lock it in place when not being used. I used a piece of 16" x 10" x 3/4" HDPE I cut and shaped, some aluminum U channel for pivoting brackets, coated aluminum telescoping tube, brass hinges, stainless screws and a stainless cotter pin with safety leash to adjust and lock the gate in place. Here are some of the photos after I got it all attached. I only did the port side for now since I am a goofy rider. I plan on getting some yellow HDPE or maybe black nylon and do a nicer job on some new U brackets after I make sure everything works as it did with the wood and clamp setup I tested last summer. I was hoping to get out and test it this weekend but it looks like rain for tomorrow and Monday.

I have two JL audio 12's under the helm with around 500 watts each to them and I am running two rev 10's with about 450 watts each. You can totally hear the music at 80 ft and from the look on most peoples face as we go by it seems like it must be pretty loud a few hundred yards away too. I don't think 2 sets of Rev 10's are necessary but if you have the headroom and funds there is no such thing as too much stereo in a boat.

Well just like the title says I decided to step up to the plate & buy a set of Rev 10's. I was going to get the 8's because of possible headroom issues but after some closer measurements and holding a set of the 10's up we were able to mount them where there will be very little if any head bonking. All I can say is WOW!! They kick a$$. I swear they are almost as loud as all of my in-boats together and they sound incredibly musical for a 10" driver and a horn tweeter. If you are on the fence I definitely say just do it. By the way I am running a Fosgate Power T800-4ad in bridged mode which is about 475 watts to each of them. Here's a photo of them on my tower:

My buddy has a set JL M770 tower speakers and they sound really good. I have listened to the JL M770 Towers, Rev 8's and Rev 10's all on a demo tower and I think the JL's might have a slight edge on smooth musical sound but the Revs are noticeably louder and clearer at any distance past the swim platform. Across the water at a couple hundred you can still hear the music fairly clear with my buddies boat and the JL's but another boat I see a lot on the water has a set of REV 8's and it sounds like a concert and the music is totally clear. For me the choice is pretty obvious to go with the Rev 8's for $200 more than a set JL's. I personally didn't hear a huge difference between the Rev 8's and Rev 10's. The 10's seemed to carry a bit more bass and slightly louder but the headroom is the problem for me. If you have the headroom for a speaker that hangs over 13" go with the 10's but you will not be unhappy with 8's for sure. I am upgrading my tower speakers too from a set of Infinity dual speaker cans and I am going with a set of REV 8's. I will use my ancient Fosgate Power 550x bridged to about about 300 watts per channel until it craps out then I might try a syn 4 if I can find one for a reasonable deal. I would definitely upgrade amps for the new tower speakers and use all 4 channels of your 700.5 with your existing inboats and keep the 5th channel the way you have it with the sub. I don't have any experience with the Wetsounds amps but everyone seems to be happy with them. I have always used Fosgate Power series amps, and I have never had any issues with them in my vehicles or boats.

I had similar issues from that Multifunction gauge. I ended up removing it and put a depth, water and air temperature gauge in it's place. Those gauges are well known for failure and causing gauge malfunctions and constant beeping. I think most people just remove them and replace them with a depth gauge like I did. Since it is a Faria gauge you can send it in and have repaired for around $65. If you replace it with a depth gauge I bet your speedometer problems will go away.

Sounds like a good combo to me. If you could fit the 12W6 in I might consider that but I think that amp at 2ohms should rock either the 10" or 12" speaker. Those W6 subs sound really good especially with around 500 watts going to them.

I have the walk-thru on my boat and I think your best bet is to remove the motor cover and panel on the port side rear locker. It is a pretty good stretch to get to it from the port side but if you kneel on the swim deck with the motor cover off you can get down into the bottom pretty good. There will still be a little bit of going with the force to remove it and the wire connectors. I need to change mine out too and I have been putting it off. I have one of my Jabsco pumps setup for back up emergency boat draining but I still need to get it replaced. I keep my boat in a boat house on a lift so it has not been a big priority since I just pull a drain plug when I get back to the lift if there is any water in the boat.

Thanks for the explanation and advice on this. I get it now. I found the diagram that is pretty close to exactly how I have my system wired. I can't remember where exactly I downloaded it but I don't take credit for it. The only difference is that I am using a Sure power 1314 as the ACR rather than a Blue Sea shown in the drawing. If I am getting this correctly I think the Sure power 1314 is better for my system since it only combines the batteries if bank 1 is charging which I have setup as the starter bank.

Well, I got everything installed and it seems to be working and charging correctly. I do like the way the new Blue Sea switch allows both batteries to be on but separated from each other so the battery separator can combine them if bank one is charging or if both banks are needed to start the boat. I guess I really don't see why the ground would have to be open on the Sure power 1314 to use a shore charger with the Perko but not with the Blue Sea switch? I did all the connections according to a pdf I downloaded from either wakeworld or from someone on here. I will see if I can upload it to show how I am connected. As for the stereo install here is a photo of the speakers installed on the drivers side. The good news is much better sound and way louder with the extra set of speakers and new amp. The bad news is now I think I need to upgrade the subwoofer to keep up with the 8 inboat speakers. 1 Jl audio 12W3 doesn't seem to be enough boom now.

Holy $hit you're going to redefine chilling in a cove somewhere. You need to add a DSP to get surround sound so you can sit back and watch a movie while taking a break from surfing. Might need a couple more batteries to make it through a movie though:)

Here is where I am thinking of mounting the M650 from the port side and one of the new MX770's

Do you have a photo of where the speaker is by the Drivers seat??