Shaka

I do not change out my impeller every year on my SV230. In fact I change every three and every time I change the old impeller looks like it could go another three. I do carry a spare on board just in case.

I do not necessarily agree with this. I've found I prefer having two sacks per side because it allows me more control for wakeboarders and I don't have a ton of water sloshing all the way to the back if I only want partial weight.

Post pics of the brackets. With that said you probably can't get the brackets. Your best bet is to get a really good TIG welder to reinforce them. I did that and mine are rock solid.

Yessir. Not particularly warm but we are wakesurfing anyway.

Any spray issues?

This one?

Have you got install pics?

Good advice above. Start with the safety kill switch. Then move to the circuit breakers. Some boats have one others have two. This red button is typically at the front of the engine.

In

I went with the LL Pipeline's this year. Super excited to mount those suckers. Have to get my new surf system mounted first so I know where to put them.

I'm in.

The metal flake has clear coat over it so you should be fine.

It takes a long time for these cameras to become, "dated". The original GoPro would be all 90% of the market would ever need. The manufacturers use marketing to create the feeling that you need to upgrade because your camera has quickly become obsolete.

Try listing a bit with the suck gate. I had my best results with a slight list. I'll let you guys know on the tabs. If they work like we think we will most likely offer them as a product.

I run something similar to Nailem. I run 750lbs in each locker and 650lbs under each side seat. The 650 lbs bags don't quite fill all the way but it's close. I find that the 750's in combination with the 650's works great and gives me a lot of control. The 650's are nice for wakeboarding as well and are a big help in tuning the wake. I did the A-plate mode which gave me a great listed goofy wave. Last year I experimented with a Nauticurl with great results. This inspired me to build a surf system. I gave the fabricator the plan for some Supreme style tabs yesterday. It was only a couple of years ago that these tabs were also used on the Centurions. I'm also going to do a set that is close to the current Centurion tab. I have buddies with an MC X45, Wakesestter, and an MB and they are all going to try the tabs as well. No more suck gate! One of the first things you should do is get rid of the hard tanks. Those take up a lot of space for little benefit.

An asymmetrical wakeplate can be fabricated by any decent metal shop. It's simply a rectangular piece of metal with a bend on one side and a piano hinge welded to it. You can mount it in the same place as your fixed tab although others mount it to the transom. I'd definitely get an actuator for adjustability. I also wonder if the A-plate would be necessary with a suck gate. I honestly have no idea but a Nauticurl works great with my A-plate and isn't very expensive. Another option is to have a surf system made similar to what's found on the newer boats. I'm fitting one this year to my SV230.

Check out the Apeman action cameras. Quality video and I think you can use them With GoPro mounts. My buddy has one and it's great.

Yes I've been looking at those. I'd personally like something a little smaller but for testing one of those would work. Digikey also has some options.

It's going to be a fun project. The joystick thing came to me when I was thinking about my dad's old boat. It was a 24ft Gulfstream Calypso with dual trim tabs that really do the same thing as modern surf tabs. The control was a joystick that had six positions: Bow up, bow down, port up, port down, starboard up, and starboard down. With one control it trimmed the boat and did a bunch of other things. I used it to make a big wave so I could get massive air on my kneeboard. The big problem is Bennett no longer makes the joystick and the only other marine version I can find is very difficult to acquire unless you're in Europe,. I work in manufacturing so I'm looking at weatherproof industrial controls that are designed to control linear actuators. If I can't find what I want I'll just get the Lenco switches and do it with individual controls. Down the road I may try and program a logic board that automates everything.

The way I would set it up is there would be a joystick position where both tabs will go down for a quick launch. There would be surf right and surf left joystick positions. Each of these positions will deploy the opposite side tab while raising the surf side tab. The tabs would only move as long as you have the joystick in that position. The boat could easily be trimmed by using the joystick small amounts which would deploy a tab slightly to handle trim.

Honestly I think trim in that sense has to take a backseat to the performance of the tabs. When I'm cruising a little weight imbalance doesn't affect my boat much. However, I will probably add individual controls for each tab which would also allow the ability to trim. I could also go with a six position monetary joystick which would allow that as well.

Unnecessary if you have a center trim tab like an A-plate. That's all you need for trimming the boat. With that said I'm considering adding individual controls for each tab in conjunction with the joystick. Doing this also adds a bonus of being able to fine tune the wave.

I'm designing flappers as we speak but it's not going to be automated. Most likely the driver will control everything through a joystick. I've figured out how to make it do a quick launch and surf right/surf left. I decided to do it because I simply do not want to pay the price for a GSA and can get similar performance for roughly a quarter of the cost. Don't get me wrong.....I think GSA is a great system.

There are plans for an A-plate on here somewhere. Any good local metal fabricator can make one using stainless steel and a piano hinge. Mine was fabbed up by Kingdon in Salt Lake.

I had this issue last summer. My boat was was hydrolocking. Turns out water was getting into the cylinders from rusty risers. I caught it early enough that it did no damage other than frying a couple of starters. It could have been much worse though.