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John Zeller

Crew
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About John Zeller

  • Rank
    Fresh Fish
  • Birthday July 30

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Columbus, GA
  • Interests
    '01 23' v-drive with Merc Scorpion

Previous Fields

  • Boat
    Centurion Concourse

Recent Profile Visitors

470 profile views
  1. I'll need to look closer, but I don't believe mine has only 4 screws. The switch panels are only three, but to get to the instruments, I see screws on top, but it appears that it wraps around towards the shifter. Boat is an '01 Concourse. I'll snap a picture next time I'm out. Erratic tach in that it appears to get stuck then I'll notice it spin almost all the way around, then settle back. This on a 3000 rpm cruise. The hour meter is LCD and it's on this tach - it will turn off from time to time, and the little hour glass flashes sometimes - don't know if it's thinking or normal. The fuel gauge is not registering either. I get full reading when I jump across the pickup. I think it's the pickup. No perfect pass (I have enough electrical woes) jz
  2. Need to do some "behind the dash" work. I need to connect up a new paddle wheel sensor to my speedos. I also want to clean and reinstall every connection, especially the grounds to try and solve some erratic behavior. To save my sanity, I want to roll back my dash. It looks as though I have to remove the windshield brace as well as the shifter - am I missing something?
  3. pop-up ski pylon problem

    Nick213 - what is a "Stripes Pole"?
  4. Just to finish up this vine - sorry it's been two years. My fuel pump was kicking out (engine die) when running - towed in by my 13 year old daughter's classmate on a seadoo ;-) It would hesitate when hitting a wake, and sometimes wouldn't kick on when turning on the ignition. I finally noticed that the snap connector going to the pump was tempermental. Ended up cleaning the contacts and pinching the connections a bit, and have been good for a year. This boat is very electrically sensitive.
  5. Yes that's it. It appears to be a ball-like plunger switch (for lack of better terminolgy) - like a spring loaded ball closet door latch. Trouble is, it's so random, and only once have I corrected it with a lean on the lever. Now that I know what it looks like, maybe I'll pull it and take a look at it - possible a little contact cleaner. I also made a little wire jumper that will allow me to bypass it in a pinch to get me home. Trust me, it won't stay on after the engine cranks. It's a frustrating problem - thanks for the help. eBay has the part for $30. I'm going to bookmark "michiganmororz.com" they have schematics.
  6. Went to the boat today. My son could not get it to crank the other day -after running for 30 minutes or so. So, I turned key to start and nothing; pulled back on shifter while keyed to start and it turned over. Was fine for another 15 times or so. Certainly seems like neutral safety but where is it? I see no wires coming from teleflex shifter; still I took off the cover. No wires, no switch. A label that warns, "There is no neutral safety switch". There's got to be something. Followed shift cable to v-drive transmission. No switch. But, there is a sensor on opposite side if shift lever that cable connects to. Checked leads; appear tight. Removed one lead; guess what? No starter! I thought it was a pressure or temp sensor. Must be a magnetic sensor???? Looks like it would screw in I didn't trysts remove. Can anyone give me any info on this thing? Thanks
  7. Does safety cutoff lanyard stop the starter or just the ignition. Won't it just crank and crank without firing?
  8. You know - I was thinking of that today. Last year, my place was robbed and they took my boat key - so I replaced the switch. My issues may have come up with that switch. It's just so darn random, that I don't get a chance or think of jumping across the switch. thanks
  9. '01 Centurion v drive Conquest. Randomly starter won't crank. Suspect neutral safety switch. Where is it? Single lever Teleflex throttle control. Thanks
  10. pop-up ski pylon problem

    I have to inquire, so this pylon actually pops up; and presses in to be flush with the engine cover? My '01 looks like wakedoc's pic. Since I have the vine, has anyone heard of fitting an extension over the pylon, for a single pole tower?
  11. Oh yea, I think I found the problem with my fuel pump kicking out. I cleaned up the relay and secured it, it was bouncing around a bit. Also found a weak ground at the dash, installed a jumper from the battery to the fuse box. Hopefully, all I have to do is the steering cable. John
  12. Well, I replaced the thermostat, temperature now steady at 175. I did notice that the port side riser is still warmer than the other when idling. They even out when the rpms increase, both are then cool. I'm glad the gauge actually is useful, now. Thanks for your help.
  13. OK - here's what I observed today, just at the dock. Temp gauge climbed to the 220 mark. Looking at the engine from the rear, because it's a v drive, the header on the left was warm, the right (alternator side) stayed cool. What does this tell me? At the thermostat housing, the large recirc hose is warm, the medium size water supply is cool as are the two smaller lines which run to the risers are also cool - I would suspect they would at least bleed off warm water? Where are these inlet water filters you speak of at the tranny? Is this the roughly 3x6 inch block that the water enters first? Do I open the eight or so bolts and look inside? Or are there filters on the hoses? Allow me to check if I have this water circulation thing right? The water is sucked up into the transmission block, then moves towards the back of my boat to the fresh water pump which is belt driven opposite the alternator. Then out of the pump and to some manifold where what looks like pressurized hoses come out and into from the transmission (Is this a oil cooler?) Then around the backside of the engine, up the alternator side to the fuel pump, then up to the thermostat. I need to find a service manual for the Scorpion So the engine was running, then stalled. From that point on I could not restart it - the fuel pump would not turn on (couldn't hear it). Is there a temperature interlock or limit switch on the fuel pump going on? Where is the temperature sensor? I see something at the thermostat, back by the distributer, probably more. Which is it? A friend may be able to help me tomorrow, and I may have more answers (or questions). Probably rambelled a bit, but I'm trying to learn this engine. Next I'll be asking what I should routinely be checking on the transmission; there's dipsticks .... but that's another time. John Z
  14. Thanks all, I'll try your ideas tomorrow; might even purchase an infrared temp gun. Stay tuned.
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