jshayerT5

. If you can have a local boat cover/shop custom make one...thats the way to go! However you will find that there is no such thing as waterproof. I live with in stones throw to a harbor where I have a good selection of businesses that make custom covers/biminis/awnings etc. What I found is that when you buy quality material, you will get a quality cover. Again not water proof, however I did forget to put up one of my rain poles once, and when I went to clear off the water I was certain that I would find water in my boat. Although the cover was holding a swimming pool of water, when I cleared the water off and pulled back the cover...dry as can be. I have a 2005 T5 Air warrior, 21ft. My cover was made to cover my swim step, goes around my tower, and spare tire cover to match. It also comes down about 8 inches past the rub rail. It is trailerable, and can be washed with soap and water. It is a 10 year material and looks sweet when it is on. The best $1200 I have spent.

The diagnostics will not throw any codes unless a sensor is faulty. However what the diag is good for is while the boat is warmed up and running. It gives you flash frame information to better understand the condition of the running motor.

With the wheel you can test for resistance. Call the OEM and find out what their specs are for troubleshooting. Then get out a DMM and have a friend spin away like he/she is going for pice is right showcase!

I agree. Sand it down. However, Teak by nature has a heavy sand content, so you will go through lots of sand paper. Coat, Coat, Coat with Teak Oil.

Crazy that there is that many lines returning to the block. What motor do you have? Seems like you may be back in business when you replace that fitting and O-ring.

What is your serial number on your motor? Pic is hard to tell where that hose is going. (Maybe going to the fuel cooler...)

B... I have the Rinda tech mate, we can scan it and check out the codes. I live in Ventura, a little trek but if you want to come up this way. Let me know.

Truekaotik...strange that you had to clear the code for yours. When i replaced mine the code cleared on its own. The active codes will come and go as the sensors are replaced, however the "history" faults stay until you clear them, so that you can have flash frames of when the code was thrown. Once I replace mine the beep beep stopped. I unplugged it just to test it and the beep beep come right back. bcollins, my advice. Get someone to scan for codes. It really does say a lot about what is going on with your motor. And if some one will scan for under $100, it is worth the time and cost of parts to get the right one right off the bat. Pretty much every 3 wire sensor on the motor will trigger the beep beep noise. So if you really want to buy and try all of them you may get the correct one eventually. However this will only work is the wires going to each harness are good. In which a DMM is going to be the best for testing that.

I did have this problem last year as well. And when I scanned my boat the code was "blk pressure sensor", which is the sensor on the tranny bell housing.

The tranny temp sensor is typically on top of the tranny bell housing, it is a 3 wire sensor. Mine is located right next to the throttle cable prob with in 8in of the throttle body. The nice thing about the guardian system is that when you do fix the problem the codes do go away on their own. The problem with the guardian system is that there are several sensors that will make it beep beep.... If you are in Ventura county, I do have the Rinda scanner that would help.

SOLVED - I was about to give up today,,, As I had the key on, engine off, i once again (for the 30th time) was testing voltage on a few sensors, when I pulled on a few wires my fuel pumps kicked on. I wiggled the wires again and again, the pumps kicked on. I followed the wires and low a behold I found a loose bolt. The bolt was holding the main power wire, from the batteries, to the starter. The bolt also holds on a few other ring terminals that power everything in the boat. So low and behold due to the bolt not snug the coil was not getting enough current to power up the coil correctly. Once the bolt was tightened the boat fired right up. I started the boat several times after and every time it started up on the first or second crank. I figured that since the wires were in contact with the main power wire every sensor, pump, etc showed 12.4 volts. So I never would of thought that this would of been the problem. As well as the PCM did not throw any codes, as well as every sensor and valve operated fine at operating temp. I don't know how this bolt got loose. However I would guess that over time, vibration must of backed it off. I did notice that there was no lock washer or nylon nut, just a brass nut. Lesson learned....always something simple. Anyways, hope this helps someone.

Here we are and still the same. Crank but no start...

did you make sure the wires were plugged in to the correct terminals?

probably wired to tach wire. which model do you have?

so the 2 beep issue of mine has been solved. the issue was the block pressure sensor. in which even mercury had a hell of a time finding the right part number. the sensor is located on the back of the motor, just above the bell housing, with a 3 wire harness plugged into it. i will post pics later. thank you to Rinda technologies! great product. cheapest i found this was 93$. part no, 8M6000623 which superceded 881879010 or 881879-10. http://www.perfprotech.com/store/assembly/Power-Steering-Components,14245-200.aspx 2006 black scorpion, 5.7 motorola ecm555. if anyone in ventura ciunty is having guardian issues and needs a scan let me know.