Chaos

At that age and assumed size little skims are often use or there are a handful of small surf style boards geared towards youth.

You can use standard mixing volumes for polyester resin. There are epoxy gel coats and polyester based gel coats. Most are polyester based and will use MEKP hardener. Gel coat is just resin, talc, pigments and usually a little surfacing agent which is just wax in a solvent (styrene for polyester/xylene for epoxy). Surface prep is key, it will harden faster the hotter your environment is. You can adjust this some with the hardener volume. If you have never used it before do some test spots/panels. Typically 1 ounce resin/gel coat to 10 drops of MEKP. More if under 60 degrees. Little less if above 90 degrees. If just covering chips and small areas, sand around the chip, wipe with acetone, tape the area off with excess room, paint on/dab on the gel coat, cover with a plastic sheet and smooth it out. Particularly useful if on a non flat surface. Flat areas will settle more uniformly. Nick

Ah, then you have a 2010 Hazen/Elevation 'Custom', probably. Unless it was something I put together. All the models are available on a custom basis, but virtually none of them actually say custom, unless I decided to put a custom label on it, which I did from time to time in the past. And, yes a Scamp is always a good kid/learner board. Nick

HawaiianStyle, which custom do you have? If it is pro and you are looking for more speed with less effort look at a Chaos Ringer or Chaos Carbon Sixer. Both boards have been noted by many as the fastest boards they have ever ridden. Nick

Stringerless boards are fine if you are using the right core material and mitigating the flex pattern with other materials like carbon fiber or bamboo, etc. In general stringerless boards will flex further/more than a stringer board. This flexing and over flexing, particularly with riders that know how to launch serious airs, will crumple and board pretty quickly. It can also lead to increased delamination. However, delamination is most often seen in stringerless EPS, due to simply amateur glassing and poor quality core material. [if left in the sun, or hot boat or car too long nearly all boards will delaminate or have some sort of core failure. not all core failures are immediately noticeable] Most stringerless wake surf boards on the market are made from cut billets of low quality insulation EPS. We all used billets to cut EPS blanks in the 80s and 90s, but it is no longer the choice of high quality manufactures. It is a cheaper alternative to the now widely available pressured fused EPS/molded EPS blanks. My problem with billet cut blanks is they virtually always require spackling to fill in the excessive gaps between the beads, and spackle doesn't bond well to epoxy and rapidly yellows over time and sun exposure. Every blank I use, I select the type of foam, density of foam, and type of stringer including width, type of wood and color. Why stringerless? aside from specific glassing models that benefit from a stringerless core, stringerless boards with typical clear fiberglass/resin laminations are produced to save money/time. The weight savings is very little. Your average stringer in a finished board only weighs 5-7 grams. Doomswell specifically or brinkwater. Nice guys. Their lineup is most similar to a flyboy in overall shape, including outline, rocker, bottom contours and foils. They differ from a flyboy in being obviously customizable with different fin configuration, and graphics, plus materials. Nick

I can add this board is basically brand new and beautiful. It is not only laminated with S-glass, but has an additional proprietary fabric in the mix that syncs the fiberglass layers together further preventing spider cracks and the usual wear and tear on boards. This will be an excellant board for a 200lb+ rider looking for that performance edge. Nick