Rob-be-me

I have a 2006 Avalance. The voltage gauge is way off. I test the battery at 12.52V, the instrament gauge shows closer to 10.25V. I need to adjust the gauge so I can monitor the voltage while chill'n on the lake to the stereo. Any suggestions on adjusting the instrament voltage gauge?

I resolved these questions. I called yet another marina, cringe This time I talked to a pleasant young man eager to help and share information, rare. He stated that they accept no more than .005” coupler gap before requiring an engine to shaft realignment. He also states there is no eng gap. Simply pull the shaft coupler to the gear mating surface by hand and measure the difference all around. If at any point there is more than .005” difference then realignment is required otherwise tighten the bolts to 30 foot pounds, done.

I pulled the Walter Gear box out and resealed the oil pan as out lined in this write up. Things I learned on the way: 1. Once the propshaft coupler is disconnected and before removing the gear box be sure to pull on the prop and back the coupler and shaft away from the gear box. I got an extra 8" of working room during removal and install. It also helps to avoided damaging the coupler and shaft with that heavy gear box. 2. Go ahead and replace the gear box to transmission seal while you’re there. It cost $5 and well worth it while you have it out. Mine measured 1.88" Outside Diameter .25" thickness with a 1.25" Shaft Diameter. 3. Reinstalling it is very rough. I used and engine hoist and a friend to help. Don’t try this alone!!! Questions: What is the end play on the shaft coupler to gear box? I called a marina and got attitude, probably because they don’t know and would prefer my money… the Walter manual says no more then .003” all the way arround, that seems tight. I’m .001” on the port side and .003” on the starboard side at best!!! Do I now need to realign the motor by .001” to make it even? This seems a bit extreme for a mere .002” difference. Any suggestions out there? http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals/Drive%20Train%20and%20Fuel%20System/V-Drive/Walter%20V-Drive%20Installation%20and%20Service%20Manual.PDF

This article was exactly what I was looking for, THX! I found a leak in my gear box and now know how to fix it. I also like the Shaft Seal write up you did, very nice. http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php/topic/4354-pss-shaft-seal-install/

Thx, I found it. Very cool.

I do not have these browse and upload options available while commenting to posts. Are these features reserved for paying or more senior members?

I like that look so much better!!! I just fear the kick panel will not hold up and crack from the pounding. Have you had any issues, rattles, or distortion with the cut out?

Good call!! I Have yet to buy the sub, So I’ll do more research on it. Thx.

The last set I just added 1.5" to each measure to get the build #'s. I plan to do a cardboard cutout and build around it. Any suggestions?

This led me on the right path. This guy did a great job on the list, pics, and advice. http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php/topic/3797-winterized-my-black-scorpion-57/ I added the the impeller while doing the Water Fuel separator, might as well you're there(loosen the belt, remove the hoses and drain plugs, then 2 9/16 bolts and out it comes). Good thing I did, I had 2 missing blades. Plus don't let the lack of oil on the dip stick of the Walter Gear Drive scare you if your boat has that brand. I can't even get the stick out but I can read it(common). The install angle on this gear box scews the read. Each model takes different amounts. Get the model number off the face plate and look up yours to be sure. Read through to page 4 Oil Fill section. http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals/Drive%20Train%20and%20Fuel%20System/V-Drive/Walter%20V-Drive%20Installation%20and%20Service%20Manual.PDF Hope my "lessons learned" helps you with yours.

Thx and I would love some pics of this type of project. BTW how do we upload pics, I don't see how? I could aslo use the dimensions on that box he built. I need .88 cu ft. for the 12” sub I’m looking at. Using this calculator http://www.onlineconversion.com/object_volume_trapezoid.htm for the inside dimensions plus 1.5” per measure for ¾ MDF to get the outside. But I’m having trouble making it fit. I’m sure my math is off so any suggestions out there would be great. This is what I have for the numbers. Inside the box dimensions: B1 = 6 B2 = 17.5 H = 19 H1 = 9.5 (don’t know what this is so I used half of H) L = 18 Total Volume = 1521/1728(magic #) for .8802 cu ft. Outside of box dimensions: B = 7.5 B2 = 19 H = 21.5 L = 19.5

Just bought an 06 Avalanche Storm Series. My 4th boat but first inboard. Just finished servicing the boat myself this weekend, all looks and runs great minus the impeller. I got my amp(Kicker ZXM 700.5), waiting on my Polk speaker light combo rack from Liquid Audio via Ebay auction, and looking at a 12” Polk MM1240 SVC subwoofer, all Marine grade. Found the kick panel, removed the seat, and taped around. Looks sealed but YES far too thin and weak to handle the pounding of a 12” pushing 420 watts. This idea of cutting into the kick panel is just what I was looking for thx. It looks great but I think I’ll cut the back out too for a flush fit, put a mesh and grill on the face, and highlight it with a LED light. This forum ROCKS!!!