firemanron

My girls love their Phase 5 Scamp,, Scamp gets another vote.

Hey guys, Does anyone have a good recommendation where to get an Acme 1579 prop from? I see the Crew Store had them a few years ago but looks like they have been sold out for a while. Wakemakers seems to have a pretty good price on them. Anyway I appreciate any help. Ron

Sorry for the late post but I wanted to make sure I passed this on to everyone. Every year when I store my boat for the winter I remove the cushions, clean them, and then store them in my crawl space/basement. Last year I was short on space in the crawl space so I stacked them on top of each other. When I pulled them out this year to get the boat ready I almost cried, every freakin cushion had black mold spots everywhere. I got out my Malco and it barely touched the spots. I tried a couple of different products but I was still left with the slightly lighter spots. I found a product called Starbrite Mildew Stain Remover and tried it. I spayed 1 cushion and scrubbed with my nail brush and the spots started to lighten a little. I spayed another cushion and then went away for about 10 minutes. When I came back and all the spots were completely gone,, hmm?? did I scrub that before I left? So I did the guy thing and finally read the instructions and as it turns out you spay it on and dont touch it until the spots are gone. This stuff is awesome!!! It took all the spots out and my vinyl looks like new again,, love this stuff. Hopefully someone else will find this helpful.

http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php/topic/6681-engine-bogging-down/ Try this. Basically I used a fuel pressure gauge and ran the engine which showed a lower fuel pressure. Your symptoms are almost them same as what I experienced. It would run great at an idle but once I got going it would bog and then cut out but keep running. It eventually got worse.

I had a very similar siituation a couple of years ago. It turned out to be one of the fuel pumps. The Mercruiser 5.7 uses 2 of them. It was an easy repair once dignosed. I posted a bunch of diagnostic information after I fixed it. Do a search for "Engine Bogging Down" and maybe it will help. Sorry I dont know how to attach a link of the post. Ron

I like to spray it on, wipe with a cloth, and then let sit for a while. Then I take a dry cloth and buff it off. Helps a little with the slippery. Let us know if you find anything better.

I use 303

Hi Guys, Just working on the install of my ballast system, 2007 Avy. I have 4 - 1" thru hulls feeding 4 Johnson pumps. The part I'm trying to decide is where do I put 4 pumps. I can mount the under the rear seat but plumbing becomes an issue. Does anyone have any pics or advice as to what they have done? Ron

Oh, I did time the valves opening last year and it was a lot faster than I originally thought. I seem to recall less than 2 seconds, they are very quiet opening so I had to do it a couple of times for the test.

Dark, I used a fuse block that had both positive and negative connections. I supplied the block with a nice size cable from the battery thru the battery switch. If you look at the boats original fuse block I think they are kinda weak. My thought was that if you run multiple pumps at the same time there could be some problems and I would hate to have electrical problems in the middle of the lake. Another reason is that the new fuse block is very easy to access if I do blow a fuse. For the cost of the fuse block and wire (under 100.00) I think it was a good decision.

1 pump for the bow, 1 pump for the center, 1 pump for port rear and mid, 1 pump for starboard rear and mid. I can use both rear pumps to fill/empty 1 sac port or starboard, 4 ball valves. The mid sacs I dont want fill all the way up cuz I dont want my seat cushions pushed up, 2 more ball valves. I would like to play with the valves more and use all the pumps to fill and empty the 1100's

ball valve setup

pump locations and thru hulls

Switch layout

New fuse panel for pumps and new wiring

Electronic ball valve

Aahh,,, How do I post pics?

I'll time them and let you know. The inside port size of the ball on the brass valve is 24mm, straight thru. (25mm is 1"). Virtually no restriction.

I finished all the wiring last night. The valves open in about 5 seconds. All I have left is to clean the boat up and put it in the water on Sunday. I should have time to post some pics tomorrow night.

2-way Motorized ball valve TOFINE-THA20T 1 inch,12 volt,2-wire CR2 02 wiring(Normally closed when power off)

I'll try to post some pics tonight.

The balls valves came from ToFine Flow controls. I paid $29.10 each plus shipping. They are 1" brass but stainless is available for aprox $5 more. Great price,,I thought. www.flow-controls.com

All done. I built some custom mounting boards and located them on the sides under the seat. Plumbing is all done and I'm working on the wiring. I bought 6 electronic ball valves that are now controlled by 3 Contura rocker switches. So switching over will all be done by a flick of a switch. I can fill or empty my 1100's with 1 or 2 pumps depending on the valve selection.

Thanks guys, I'll play with my options today and see if I need to fabricate somethng up. Ron

I see your point. A 1" opening has an area of .785 x 2 = 1.57. A 1 1/4" opening has an area of 1.22. 1.57 for 2 holes and 1.22 for 1 hole. You only lose 22%,,,Hmmm, guess I need to consider that some more. Thanks for the input guys. Ron