tuneman

Hey Stoked, thanks for the recognition! It's been a while since I've been on the forum. Got distracted with snowmobiling. Gotta play year round, ya know. Nice job on those gates. I haven't progressed beyond what you've got, but I do have some good findings: - The wood swells when wet, so make certain that you have a small gap where it slides onto your platform or it'll be tough to get back off. - I've found the best wave is to list the boat, not weight it evenly: Even weight will flatten the wave, nice for skim but no steep kick for surf The boat works waaaay to hard to haul around all that unnecessary ballast. You'll go thru about twice the gas with even weight. - your tab isn't up too high, it's just fine. Even the opposite side is low in the water when weighted and listed. I hope to get Lenco actuated gates on this year, but it's lower on the list of upgrades. I highly recommend the gates, however.

Here's a cover for ya: http://greatlakesskipper.com/en_us/ski-centurion-enzo-sv-230-westland-boat-cover-arctic-silver# Your tower is an Xtreme Swoop, aka XTP Swoop.

I'd also look into Seadek. I had that stuff in my Epic and it was awesome. Waaaay better than carpet.

I can't ride just one or the other. To me, each style helps the other. Skim helps me with quick moves and spins. Surf helps with the cardio. For instance, I'll get on a skim after riding a surf and think I'll want to stick with that since it's so much easier. But it's the surf that works the cardio so much to make the skim easier. Then after a while, I'll jump back on the surf and my driving will have improved so much because of the quick carves I learned from the skim. So, get one of each if you can afford it. I currently ride a Triple X Slayer and an IS Black Pearl, but I'm a 195 pounder.

More 3D parts to show. I'm slowly redoing my ballast and building it all in. Using 14 aerator pumps. Tsunami 1200s, to be specific. However, they have a proprietary 1-1/8" thread, of which I'm sure many of you are aware. Fly High makes an adapter to 3/4" to fit their bags, but I don't want the restriction. So, I printed my own adapters. Tsunami to 1.5" pipe:

Tridicer diagram attached... SN0031.pdf

We just need nailem to try it both ways and report back.....pleeease?

That's awesome! Kneeboaring is the best sport, so keep her at it.

I think you'll want it the other way around. Leave the port side and remove the starboard (Just like the new plate from Centurion). The existing plate cuts into your port side wave, creating wash. You'll need the extension on that side to knock the spray down in the pocket, but a starboard extension will knock down the height and push of the wave. That's the way I see it anyway...

Yes, your ears. Seems like a waste of money to me. Setting gains is easy.

Nice upgrades, but I don't ever seeing me buy a Centurion with that hideous dash. I can't believe I just said that, since all previous boats were bought according to wake perfomance. But that dash, geeez.... Is there an option to go back to the previous version?

Yes, it would be expensive. However, you can make it how you want. We have a division here, called Redeye, that will print your parts for a fee. Just in case you want to print something, but don't have the printer. Here's the link: http://www.redeyeondemand.com/ 3D printing is becoming more reasonable every day and will likely become affordable for the general public sooner than you might think.

The hidden hot tube:

I'm happy to report that the sub kicks arse!! And it's not even broken in yet. Just punchy as heck and can hit the mega lows to rattle the teeth. Best sounding sub I've ever had in a boat. I've had Kicker and JL; although, I didn't personally build the enclosure for those subs. Kudos to Dayton Audio. Incredible sub for $165 on sale.

I have this issue too. Temp is just over 175 (~180) and stays there. 2005 350 Mag MPI. It's been that way since I bought the boat last year. It's got a new impeller, clean transcooler and a new thermostat. I haven't checked the V-drive plumbing, but the temperature holds constant. You'd think that if there were blockage, the temperature would fluctuate. Could the water circulation pump have anything to do with it?