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Merlino13

Crew
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About Merlino13

  • Rank
    Fresh Fish

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seattle, WA

Previous Fields

  • Boat
    Centurion Elite
  1. It was right around $800.
  2. When I experience a quality product, I feel compelled to tell others, and my new Cover Sports Cover is just one of these products. Brent was great to work with, and the cover he built for my 2000 Elite V fits perfect. Check out the photos (one doing it's job repelling rain as it needs to in a classic Seattle Summer...) Downside is Cover sports does not have a functioning website, so everything has to be handled over the phone and paypal. If you are looking for a new cover for your boat, it's worth your time to give Brent a shout. His number is 425-424-3900.
  3. I have had the same issue with my 2000 Elite V. Has been driving me crazy. Fuel smell under the helm. Funny thing is it is present while under way, but even just parked in the garage on some days, but not others. Could be strong smell today, but gone tomorrow and back the following without moving the boat. I replaced the fill hose and vent hose since they looked old and cracked, but the smell on some days is the same. I attached a small paper towel to a wire snake and ran it under the tank. Nothing. Lift the inspection lids in the floor, no fuel smell. Only right around the area where the fill and vent enter the tank. I also inspected the plastic tubes in the top of the tank for cracks, but nothing. I even rented an inspection camera and ran it around the top and sides of the tank looking for anything obvious. This has been a major mystery for me. By the looks of it, replacing the tank would be a huge job since there is no hatch to get to it. I assume one would have to seperate the hull? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
  4. Sub box 99 Elite foot rest in way

    I have a 2000 Elite V with the same footrest. The footrest is aprox 5" high, so I built risers behind at the same hight, and placed the 13" sub box on them. I used a sealed box, so it was smaller (14.24" X 14.25" X 14.25". Only issue is I had to remove the drivers seat, and loosen the steering column to slide it all in to position. Next step is to build a carpeted face to cover the front under the helm with a 13" round opening for the sub, and another for the heater vent.
  5. Sub Location

    Thanks for all your help! Off to find an enclosure.
  6. Sub Location

    Thanks guys!! Again, another sound solution to what was thought by me to be a difficult decision... I'm going with the sealed version as suggested for this Summer. Rockford suggests a 14"X18"X10" sealed enclosure for the P3. When you say "I also go larger on a lot of my builds but I have done hundreds of different set ups and heard the difference in box sizing... " How much bigger is advisable / tolerable? Thanks again!!
  7. Sub Location

    So as I see it, I keep the P3, toss the existing box and pick up a sealed box which will be a tighter but softer sound, or... Scrap both and get a 12" sub suited for use in a ported box and get louder and possibly better sound. Pretty sure the ported choice will require a custom built box to fit under the helm though. Overall the Alpine MRP M1000 is well suited either way. Am I reading this right? Last question, If I decide to go ported, any suggestions on a moderately priced sub? Sincerely appreciate the two of you weighing in.
  8. Sub Location

    Thanks for the comment truekaotik. Is it a general rule to use ported/open boxes in boats, or is it a matter of taste?
  9. Sub Location

    Yes, it is a car audio uncoated box. Not the best choice I guess... I did put it on rails to keep it off the deck, but who knows, still might have gotten wet. Assuming I'm going to replace the box, (right T/S parameters) would you go ported? I have heard ported does make it louder, but lacks the tight punch. Good point on the amp settings. I'll climb in and double check them also. Thanks for the reply Wylie!!
  10. Sub Location

    Hi all. First time question poster, long time reader... Question is, I'm struggling with finding the correct Sub application / combination in my boat. Everything sounds great except the sub. It's loud and goes deep, but just sounds muddy and boomy not all the time, but most of the time. Current set up is an Alpine MRP M1000 amp pushing a Rockford Fosgate 12" P3 Sub in a ported 13"X16"X18" pre-built box. My boat is a 2000 Elite V with the famous footrest under the helm, and fiberglass box that the driver seat sits on. Awesome combination when trying to stuff a box under the helm... See attached picture of current set up. My question is, should I go non-ported, fire the sub at the hull, build a custom box, or ??? What have others done that sounds great in a similar boat? I would appreciate any and all suggestions
  11. Replaced the impeller yesterday, and now have the same ticking noise under load, but not idle. Going to adjust belt tension today to see if that's the issue.
  12. I guess I got it to upload....
  13. Sorry for the delay. I have been traveling all week. I was unablre to access the gauges from below. As mentioned above, it is a major pain to get them out. I had to remove the windshield to gain access form the back, and remove steering column, drivers seat, side panel and shifter to get the dash to tilt high enough to get my hands in. Be sure to tag all the wires, and take photos. Really helped when I was putting back together. A lot of work, but o so worth it... I tried to post photos, but I guess they are too big. I'll try again tomorrow.
  14. Sorry, just noticed that I misspelled Faria above... Below is the address to their repair page. https://faria-instruments.com/forms/?form=new
  15. Hi everyone. I also just purchased a 2000 Elite V, and after trying to replace the depth finder I noticed the same issue. All the gauges including the clock, were cracked at the spot where the bezel meets the case. I read somewhere that this was an issue with early 2000 centurions where they tightened the mounting nuts too tight, thus putting too much pressure on the case. I called Furia, and they directed me to their repair/warrantee site. The cost was extremely reasonable to repair (they actually just sent new ones back) $15.00 each for the Speedometers, $50.00 for the 4 in 1 ect. In less than 3 weeks, I was sent back all new original (Centurion Logo silkscreened on all) gauges with hardware for $188.00!! Needless to say, I'm now a huge fan of Faria! It's a major pain the a$$ to pull and replace the gauges, but I highly recommend it if your gauges are faded or fogging from cracks. My dash looks awesome now. By the way, this is also my first post. Love this site!
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