1markp

Ok, found the problem. There is a 90 amp fuse were the main wire attaches to the starter.

So Here we go.... Meet up with my buddies at the lake a few days ago to take my 04 Cyclone for some fun on the water, but sadly it didn't work out as so. Back the boat down the launch ramp and when I tried to start it it was dead, ok not the end of the world my buddy pulled his truck down and we attempted a jump, no go. Ok still not the end of the world, run to auto parts store grab a new battery and back to the ramp in a half hour. Here's were it gets ugly, in my rush to get on the water before the water gets jacked up I hook the battery up backwards (I know total retard move). Here's were things get ugly, switch the battery control on try to start and nothing, ok try a few more times and snap, crackle pop and flames arise. Not the best time to find out if your fire extinguisher works, but luckily it did. So here's were I need help, replaced the battery I destroyed and went ahead and replaced the 2nd battery along with the Perko battery switch and the fried 4 gauge wires running to my amps. Got it all hooked up and still dead to the main fuse box. I have voltage to the starter but none to any thing else, the main breaker at the engine tests fine for continuity but no voltage. I read some other posts here and they mentioned a circuit breaker near the battery area, I don't find one on my boat. So I'm trying to figure out were the power comes from for the fuse box, I'm not finding any other hot feed to the boat other than the main 1 or 2 gage that runs to the starter , am I missing something here. Any ideas are much appreciated. Thanks

I'm shopping for a new cover. I'm really happy with the cover that came with the boat it's just worn out and tearing. Not sure were it came from as I bought the boat used and it was with it. I've seen some semi custom covers offered by multiple retailers on line made with Sunbrella fabric for around 6-9 hundred. Just not sure of the fit. Also got an estimate for a custom cover from my local shop and they want $1600 "Gulp". Not going to be going that way. Any recommendation will be appreciated. Thanks

Boat mechanic has diagnosed it as a bad fuel regulator, according to the codes he got. Ok, makes sense in that he says it's sending to much fuel and the sensor is backing it down to compensate and this is why it runs ok at higher rpm. So here's were my concern is, he says part is $175, I found it online for $125, no big deal everyone's gotta make a buck but he tells me he needs to calibrate it. Calibrate it??? Is this so? Just wanted to find this out in case I decide to pull it from him and install myself since he's telling me a week to get the part and it has to come from this only one distributor. Heck, I'm gonna call NAPA tomorrow to see if they've a cross reference for this part and could have it in less than a day. Thanks again all for your input!

Still not fixed! Tried to mess with it again today to get it going. So today I hooked it up to the hose and tried to start it... No go, got a beep beep and finally got it started when I opened up the throttle body. So I revved it up runs great with the throttle cracked but still won't idle by itself. This time it was hard starting from the get go, not after warming up. So I pulled the hose from the IAC to the throttle body to try to bypass it to see if it was the problem but still the same. I'm getting to the end of my patience and may have to take it to a shop for diagnosis. Any ideas before I give in and take her in.

I read somewhere you can rent a fuel pressure tester at a local auto parts store. Anyone comment on this? And if so how do you check it?

Fuel filter will be next to get replaced. Is this something that can be purchased at a NAPA ?

Ok I replaced the cap and rotor and it started up no problem, idled it for around 5 minutes revved it up to simulate a couple of pulls and same problem again. Won't hold idle. I cleaned the throttle body and removed the flame arrester, started up and still won't hold idle. Seems to me that when it gets up to temp is when it has a problem. Any ideas?

Hey GOBIG, do you surf with your Cyclone? If so what's your set up for a good wave? I've got a cap located at the local NAPA to pick up tomorrow. Brass for better corrosion resistance?

Ya, cap is looking past it. On the hunt for a replacement now. Thanks Kevin, found the button.

Ok I'll check out the cap and rotor. I replaced the water separator last season, that's the thing that kinda looks like an oil filter, ya? Not sure what centurion skier is referring to on the " bottom on the control arm" where is this button? And Kevin what are you referring to when you say " pesky green icicles" REALY APPRECIATE all your guys help!!!!

I'm pretty sure it does. I know....what kind of an answer is that. Well, you know how when your stuff isn't working, you think all is going to crap. It seems to rev freely with no hesitation when I disconnect the trans linkage and rev it up.

As I mentioned before it will hold idle fine with the IAC removed.

First broke 2 weeks ago. Was out on the water and it stalled. I thought it was out of gas so I got a tow to the marina were I put $150 of over priced gas in it. Tried to start it and it would not hold an idle for more than a few seconds. The mechanic at the dock said its likely the IAC so I changed it, started it in the driveway before taking it back out yesterday, launched it and idled around while my chick parked the truck. No problem, picked her up went out and got 2 runs. After going down, while she was coming back to pick me up it stalled and was difficult to start and would not hold an idle. I got it back to the dock by holding the throttle body open a little to hold idle enough for her to get us under way. Replaced the IAC again and still same problem.

We'll I don't have one of those drivers so I'm hoping cleaning things up and adjusting the throttle stop screw cures my problem. Any comment on it holding an idle for 15-20 seconds before stalling?