slappie

I had one made for my 2003 Avalanche C4 by Dallas Canvas here in Dallas. They did an awesome job. They had my boat and did the measurements from my boat, so they should have a pattern. Contact is: Mark or Michelle 972-910-9052

Finally need a new cover. Ripped a hole in my OEM cover after 13 years. I called Centurion and gave my hull number and they said that my boat has the Extreme Swoop tower via the sales order but couldn't find the file. I thought it was a ProFlight but now am not sure and can't figure out which tower I have to order a cover. Boat is 100 miles away so don't have any pics. It is a 2003 Avalanche C4. The tower has the trapezoidal feet on the boat welded to the windshield bar like this: https://www.google.com/search?q=skylon+swoop+tower&biw=1280&bih=672&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjU8Yqnk7jNAhXM4iYKHUS-C9oQ_AUIBygC#imgrc=DrFEwoTjEp3dDM%3A (not the one where the bar is bent to form the mount). It has the horizontal reinforcement bars but they are round, not oval like on the Skylon Swoop. The collapsing knobs are on the side of a two part coupler, not on the bottom like on the ProFlight. It has the heim joints for the rear pivot points. Terrible picture but it looks just like this tower. https://www.google.com/search?q=skylon+swoop+tower&biw=1280&bih=672&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjU8Yqnk7jNAhXM4iYKHUS-C9oQ_AUIBygC#tbm=isch&q=2003+centurion+avalanche+tower&imgrc=AYlbwgzq06KEAM%3A Anybody have any idea what tower I have? Thanks. I know I can just have a custom cover made but that entails getting out to the boat, measuring or getting the old cover for a template, finding something else to cover it with in the mean time, etc. Also, any opinions on mooring covers that go over the whole tower? I can order one of those with just a centerl ine and tower height measurement and patch my old cover in the mean time.

Awesome, thanks very much. Couldn't find that anywhere.

Just got the forks yesterday and they are perfect! I know they fit because I already have the original DIY forks on my Batrack and these are the same bolt pattern. I upgraded to these since he made the distance between the fingers smaller for surfboards on this version. The older one is now marketed as a keneeboard/wakeboard rack. I'd recommend looking at these for anyone who needs replacements.

Just got the shipment notice. Ordered at 5pm Central today. Excellent service. We will see how they are when they show up.

diywake.com has replacement fingers. I just ordered two of them to replace my original ones that were too big - he has since updated the one I have to a kneeboard/wakeboard and made a smaller set for wakeboard/surfboard. $51 each. Not bad at all.

I'd get the first option, assuming your surfboard will fit the space. The one I have is like the second one and the space is much too large for the thickness of the board, so it wobbles around a lot.

Glad it lasted 15 - that is a good life. I'd love to see the thread about replacement since I'll probably end up doing the same someday.

That rack is a Skylon Batrack. I have two of them. I couldn't find surf fingers for it so bought another rack from Pyramid Mfg.

Gauges sound like a bad ground connection. Mine does that sometimes and I just tap on the gauge face and it brings it back to where it needs to be. I still need to pull the dash and check the connections but it is looking more like a winter project at this point.

I've got my 2003 Avalanche on a lift at the lake here in Texas. Store it there year round, most years. I've had it since new in 2003. I have had some mildew on the sundeck that I got rid of with a mildew remover (Starbrite brand). Before I put the cover on, I spray 3M Mildew Block on the areas where the cover touches. Has been perfect. Never had pinking but the boathouse generally shades the boat. Speaking of sunblock, the one thing I do have in three spots is yellow stains from the spray on sunblock we used to use. I can't get rid of them for the life of me. Sun, a little bit of bleach, etc. Nothing has worked. Need to get the skins replaced but Centurion stopped making them. I have learned a few things from this. 1. The vinyl in my Centurion still looks great except for those three little spots. My boat still looks virtually new. 2. Those three little spots bug me more than you can imagine. 3. Spray on sunscreen may prevent cancer on your body but it will give cancer to your vinyl 4. Keep that sh%t away from your boat.

I've got a 2003 Avalanche with factory installed dual batteries and isolator. How do I install a switch on this setup? I bought a Blue Sea Systems switch but then realized I didn't really understand how to wire it in. I've done all my stereo work myself, etc. so I can handle the wiring. But have been putting off installing a switch because of this issue. I just don't understand which switch is the one I need, do I need a charging relay or not, which wires to leave connected to the batteries themselves (charger wires, etc.) and which to run through the switch. It has been years that I've been thinking about putting one in but I end up just disconnecting the batteries by pulling all the negative leads instead. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am sure it is simple but it is one thing I just can't wrap my head around.

Dang. Talk about going silent. Still haven't installed the switch. And believe me, I know this sounds like a dumb a** question.

Do I need to hook all the leads to the switch or just the main POS and NEG from each battery?

Help a dude out guys. Want to make sure to do it right.

Thanks Doc. There is a Freedom in McKinney that used to have Centurion boats but they are gone now. Good to know that the one in Lewisville still has them.

Wylie, Thanks. No proper procedure as in the wiring questions I had from two posts up: To install the 6011 properly, do I unhook EVERYTHING from each battery Positive and transfer to the switch, then run from switch back to battery? Or do I just run the main battery cable to the switch and leave the other items connected? The other items are Power lead to Amp (4 Gauge on the main battery post but it does have a circuit breaker on it so I guess I could leave it connected and just switch that off as well), battery charger leads (make sense to leave them connected directly to the batteries) and some other stuff that was on there from the factory (small ring terminals).

Todd. It says you live in Frisco Texas. I live in Prosper. I have had my 2003 Avalanche since new. Bought as a demo from Texas Boat Outlet, who then went out of business. Had initial services done at the Slalom Shop but since I bought it from their affiliate/Texas Boat Outlet, they treated me like a second class citizen. Left my brand new boat out in the rain, uncovered, etc. I have not found a reputable Centurion dealear since and do my own work. That said, I'd love to get some things done that I can't do myself - upholstery, check up of the engine with scan tool, etc. Whom do you recommend in the area? My boat is practically the only Centurion on Lake Cypress Springs and since you are the VP of Marketing you should be able to point me in the right direction, especially since you live close by. Thanks very much. I love my Avalanche!

Heading out to the lake tomorrow. Please let me know the proper procedure so I get this right. Thanks

OK, I have returned the original switch and have the 6011. I also bought 2 Marine tinned positive and 2 Marine tinned negative battery cables. I can return whatever I don't use. I want to keep my original isolator and just put the switch in near the batteries. To do this, do I unhook EVERYTHING from the battery and transfer to the switch, then run from switch back to battery? Or do I just run the main battery cable to the switch and leave the other items connected? The other items are Power lead to Amp (4 Gauge on the main battery post but it does have a circuit breaker on it so I guess I could leave it connected and just switch that off as well), battery charger leads (make sense to leave them connected directly to the batteries) and some other stuff that was on there from the factory (small ring terminals). Thanks

I'll check to see what it is or if I can find any info on it before I get back up there in two weeks. It may have three posts. I didn't take the time to pay attention to it enough and just thought about doing the project since I've been back home, away from the boat. Thanks guys.

I think I need to return the switch and get a dual Circuit Plus instead - 6011. That way both batteries can be isolated instead of combined all the time. One battery is for the stereo and the other is the starting battery.

The switch is a part number 6007 M Series 4 position selector switch. It has Off/1/2/1+2 positions. The isolator is the stock one that came with the boat. It is mounted in the engine compartment and has two posts on it from what I remember (boat is at the lake, on the lift 100 miles away). It is red in color with fins for cooling, like an amplifier. Not sure if that tells you anything. I just bought the switch yesterday so I can return it if it isn't the right one.

Those step pads look awesome. Do you have the part number or anything to help me order the same ones? I want to put those on my Avy. What did they cost?

I have had my boat since new. Always has run great and pulled strong. It ran great Friday and half of Saturday this weekend. Mid Day Saturday we pulled in a cove to chill a while and swim after wakeboarding. It was a big cove so we just drifted and didn't anchor. Because of this, I had to start the boat briefly a few times to reposition due to drift. Started, bumped throttle into idle for about a minute, turned off. Didn't get up to operating temp, etc. After doing this three times, we headed out again to wakeboard. On acceleration it felt as if we were dragging a light anchor or had a rope wrapped around the prop. Jumped out and there was no obstruction. Started it again and was able to make it cruising just fine but lost about 4 mph on top end and it didn't idle or take off smoothly as it should and it felt as if I had to give it full throttle just to pull someone up. Changed plugs (AC Delco Platinum replacements for OEM plugs, same as I had in there before, gapped to .060), cap, rotor (BWD brand from O'Reilley, not Marine specific. Only thing I could get locally), inline fuel filter and fuel/water separator. Still isn't perfect. When I pulled the cap and rotor I did see a ton of white powdery corrosion on the terminals but it could have been old dielectric grease from the factory. Still had the original cap/rotor and plug wires. I have replaced the plugs before. I was low on gas so we headed to the marina to get a fresh tank. Maybe the new gas was bad coupled with the fact that when the tank was low maybe we sucked up some trash from the bottom of the tank. Added some injector cleaner but still didn't help much. I am looking to now replace the Spark Plug Wires - does anyone know a good set or the OEM part number for this motor? The boat starts fine but just doesn't have the power that it should and shudders a bit at low RPM and doesn't reach top end. It is almost like it is running on 6 or 7 cylinders instead of 8. One long beep on start up so it isn't Engine Guardian or anything like that. We had to leave the lake so I can't troubleshoot until 2 weeks from now. My thinking is maybe I didn't get the plug wires totally seated on all the plugs or when pulling the boots off I damaged one of the wires internally. I plan to pull wires one at a time from the distributor cap and see if it runs worse or the same with any wires disconnected to isolate the problem to a particular cylinder. Anyone else familiar with this issue? Like I said, the boat has always run perfectly in the 11 years I have had it.