WalknBos

Bigcatpt, on 11 July 2011 - 03:23 PM, said: Phil thanks for the info. I am hoping I can just tighten down the packing nut. Pretty sure that even though it is an 03 that it has never been adjusted. I know the previous owner never did it and I have not either. So hopefully there is some adjustment left in it. Both of the links you posted are for the same packing material. Do you have that link for the wrench? I really don't think I am going to be able to get in there with pipe wrenches. Also will I need 2 wrenches? Or in other words do I need a wrench to stabilize one nut while turning the other? Thanks! HA - Sorry didn't realize I posted the same link twice. here is the correct one, you can find it at most ACE Hardware Stores also ( Malibu sell a crappy one for like 30 buck on the Bakes site not sure if it will fit ours since it not adjustable): http://www.google.co...ved=0CHQQ8wIwBA or http://www.amazon.co...c/dp/B000S8P2UM Here is a great link with pictures on how to do the procedures - it just happen to be the exact same one in my 2003 Avalanche with the same wrench- also I found it easy to fully remove the center sit via the hinge so could reach around the V-Drive. Also yes you will need a second wrench to hold the unit in place so you don't put stress on rubber seal: http://www.pbase.com...ng/stuffing_box I used threaded awl to remove the old packing if necessary - mine had about 700 hours when I changed to GFX Gore Text type from SkiDM. Some just use bend old clothes hangers. Also my avalanche used three rings which I placed every 120 degrees (3 times 120 equals 360 degrees) and cut the packing on the 45, ( which was also how it done at the factory) I've done about 4 now, for friends at our club with no issues. Hope this helps - ADMIN should think about linking this packing article in the link above - IMHO Bobback - you don't need to remove the engine to tighten or repack you shaft gland - just a lot of patience. Hope this helps, if you have any question let me know. Phil

A little surfing behind the 03 Avalanche - Lake Delta Upstate NY

HA - Sorry didn't realize I posted the same link twice. here is the correct one, you can find it at most ACE Hardware Stores also ( Malibu sell a crappy one for like 30 buck on the Bakes site not sure if it will fit ours since it not adjustable): http://www.google.co...ved=0CHQQ8wIwBA or http://www.amazon.co...c/dp/B000S8P2UM Here is a great link with pictures on how to do the procedures - it just happen to be the exact same one in my 2003 Avalanche with the same wrench- also I found it easy to fully remove the center sit via the hinge so could reach around the V-Drive. Also yes you will need a second wrench to hold the unit in place so you don't put stress on rubber seal: http://www.pbase.com...ng/stuffing_box I used threaded awl to remove the old packing if necessary - mine had about 700 hours when I changed to GFX Gore Text type from SkiDM. Some just use bend old clothes hangers. Also my avalanche used three rings which I placed every 120 degrees (3 times 120 equals 360 degrees) and cut the packing on the 45, ( which was also how it done at the factory) I've done about 4 now, for friends at our club with no issues. Hope this helps - ADMIN should think about linking this packing article in the link above - IMHO Bobback - you don't need to remove the engine to tighten or repack you shaft gland - just a lot of patience. Hope this helps, if you have any question let me know. Phil http://www.pbase.com...ng/stuffing_box

I have a 2003 Avalanche with the stock Swoop tower/ on the factory dual Boatmate trailer - it just barely "will not " clear my 10 foot door (guessing less then 3 inches ) - I have to put it down - then I just put it back up once in Garage. Cheers Phil

I use the exact same tech for my hard tanks - if you remove the rear seat - you can see the tank water level, and due to the way the drain pump is fitted there is always about an inch or so of water in the tank, I use the the -50 and just leave a couple inches in the tank been working fine since 2003, it gets pretty cool and stays cold here in upstate NY Also this ensures that no water is left/trapped in the pumps - I do pump a bit out so it is cycled through the drain pump -all in all it takes less then 15 minutes or os. Cheers Phil

Here is what you need: http://www.skidim.co...umber=GFO1/4X24 And here is the wrench to make you life easier when your adjust the packing nut - best 9 dollars you will spend. http://www.skidim.co...umber=GFO1/4X24 Using the Gore-tex GFO packing will make you shaft virtually drip-less when properly adjusted. With a 03 you about due to change out the packing - the Gore-TEX also handles heat and friction better IMHO. I did mine last year - had about 700 hundred hours on the engine. Hope this helps Phil

Hello: You folks that have the dripless shaft seal may find this video very helpful: Titled: WAKESURF - CENTURION BOAT SHAFT LUBE I just upgraded my old style to the gore-tex packing and its now all but dripless - for about 6 dollars Hope this helps Phil

Hello: This will work for your 2005 also I have the 2003 model and year, I called Fineline and there weren't much help they told me it was either 19 or 20 foot cable (mine turned out to be a 20). But here is the solution - look under the steering wheel about a foot from the rack box you see some numbers in white - that is the model number of for your cable. My was a SSC15420 TFXTREME, made by Teleflex, I used SKIDIM, they had it dropped shipped from the company, this model is very popular. For me, I removed everything on the port side of the boat, to include the muffler/side swimdeck/hardtank,, also changed the impeller while I was there (they last 3-4 years depending on use and area). Once I pulled the pin under the engine I connected a wakeboard rope - to use as a guide to pull the new the cable through this proved quite easy, recommend you remove the center panel also under the cockpit rug. Oh, the nut under the engine is 1/18 size wrench and a cotter pin. Also mark where the wheel is so you can have it in the right position once you install the rack, roll back the amount of length to get ride of slack length. I could not believe the improvement, I had almost 4 inches of play and the cable had become quite sitff - the boat now handles like a dream. Job took about 4-5 hours mostly disassemble and reassembly of side plus the replacement of impeller Hope this help. Phil

Hello: I have the same model and year, I called Fineline and there weren't much help they told me it was either 19 or 20 foot cable. But here is the solution - look under the steering wheel about a foot from the rack box you see some numbers in white - that is the model number of for your cable. My was a SSC15420 TFXTREME, made by Teleflex, I used SKIDIM, they had it dropped shipped from the company, this model is very popular. For me, I removed everything on the port side of the boat, to include the muffler/side swimdeck/hardtank,, also changed the impeller while I was there (they last 3-4 years depending on use and area). Once I pulled the pin under the engine I connected a wakeboard rope - to use as a guide to pull the new the cable through this proved quite easy, recommend you remove the center panel also under the cockpit rug. Oh, the nut under the engine is 1/18 size wrench. Also mark where the wheel is so you can have it in the right position once you install the rack, roll back the amount of length to get ride of slack length. I could not believe the improvement, I had almost 4 inches of play and the cable had become quite sitff - the boat now handles like a dream. Job took about 4-5 hours mostly disassemble and reassembly of side plus the replacement of impeller Hope this help. Phil

Yes. Mine was a loud ticking, it was easy to tell which side failed ( about 40 hours on engine) - mine was fixed in about a day at the Mercury dealer under warranty.

Ditto on prop - while riding last week - we hit a chain that chewed up the prop bad - I put on a replacement (rebuilt prop Acme 515) - and had a whistling noise at 600-700 RPM and very slight vibrations/rubble at upper RPM - though I had possible strut or shaft damage ($$$). Here is great trick from a dealer - he wanted me to do this before bringing it in. (over 100 miles away) - take the prop off - put the boat back on the water - start her up while on the trailer - run through the RPM range -if no issues now - you have a bad prop (unbalanced?) Got my new prop Acme 525 - running silky smooth again! Great Service from SKIDIM.com (ski discount marine - ski/wake part specialist - very knowledgeable - look for the 10% discount on homepage (I am .not affilated in anyway with SKIDIM - just a happy customer) the stores around here just don't stock parts for ski and wakeboard boats

Yes - it's a "wear" type item - depending on your hours/usage you should get at least 2 seasons - also they usually don't give an indications when they are about to fail - I always keep a spare around. Kind of a pain to change on the Avey with hard tanks - ended up removing whole pump then changing pump on the bench - then re install - use the search feature a couple of thread on this. The older impellers use to have to be removed during winter storage (made from natural rubber) - but this is now unnecessary.

Ordered mine direct from Centurion - dam and the two rails which you may have to do a little trimming - very easy project (make sure to use the right bit after to prevent spider cracks in gel coat) - great for cold up-state NY. Sorry Spud - no dealer within a 120 miles - the two that were here are out of business. I think that is why choice 20 on the Centurion answer system is called "Customer Service". Also both the "find a dealer option" and contact Centurion via email - are broken on their web site - they are aware and working to fix itl Oh yea, they shipped it to my house, sweet! Centurion - 1-209-384-0255