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From what I have heard around here that hull with the back cut outs on the transom make it hard to get a good wave….

On the Asymmetrical trim tab, I would worry about that down the road after the ballast is dialed. I did do the Asym plate and it was really useful for cleaning up the goofy wave and making wave length/height adjustments. Here's my Asymmetrical plate thread for anyone who is interested:

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Hey Cliff, There is no wood in a 2005 Enzo. It is full fiberglass construction.

Since we are back on the custom DIY ballast install topic I wanted to show a bit of what my install was about. So for a baseline my boat is a '03 Elite V Air Warrior with the factory center ballast only which uses a jabsco Water puppy to fill the hard tank under floor. My plan was to install a ballast system which would fill/empty on the move and would work equally as well for surfing as it does for wakeboarding. I wanted the majority of the ballast to be hidden but not take up ALL of my storage. The system consists of me adding 2 Launch Pad V-Drive Bags (from a previous boat, and will be upgraded to Flyhigh 750's) in the rear lockers and the Flyhigh wrap around bow bag in the front. At first I had the bow bag piggy backed onto the center ballast but that has since changed and is now on its own pump, thru-hull pickup and vents due to the slow fill and for more adjust-ability. I hoped to do like many others and keep track of every fitting, hose, clamp and pump but I have lost track after changing things here and there along the way. Parts - It started by ordering two Simer "Blue water" utility pumps from hardwareworld.com one for each Launch Pad in the rear lockers.Later I ordered one more for the bow bag. From boatownerswarehouse.com came the brass thru-hulls for the inlet/outlets, chrome thru-hulls for the vents and a number of pipe to hose adapters. From my local home depot the rest of the threaded pipe to barb hose adapters, ball valves, clamps, check valves and bulk hose was bought. Carling technologies dual throw / dual pole switches with lights were purchased on ebay. Switch covers to match my "Contura IV" factory switches were actually ordered from the dark side over at my local Mastercraft parts department. Finally the bow bag and flyhigh fittings were purchased on ebay as well. First thing was to make a rough diagram of the rear ballast setup. Here is the start to the parts for the install. First hole cut was the starboard locker vent. I put it in the factory location next to the bilge and center ballast vent. (3/4" chrome plastic 90 degree thru-hull) I replaced the factory black plastic for the chrome look thru-hulls. I cut a hole on the port side in the same location as the vents on the starboard side. Installing a chrome thru-hull. I choose to put the intake/output thru-hulls in the bottom of the boat so they were always underwater unlike the factory thru-hull on the stern. Here is the factory thru-hull for the center ballast tank. Yes I know it is VERY dirty. That has all been cleaned up. The previous owner kept the boat in the water and did not clean it very well, these pictures are from just after my purchase of it this spring. The thru-hull in the bottom on the hull were measured, mocked up, and cut just in front of the V-Drive. Again very dirty but there were some yellow marks showing my center of each hole, it was taped up and holes cut. Some silicone sealant put around the o-rings on the thru-hulls Both holes cut, thru-hulls in the holes, ball valves threaded into thru-hulls and hose attached. Under the dash I put fuses into the factory labeled holders, verified wire colors and then attached the powers and grounds from the fuse box to my switches. Wired up the switches and put them into the panel. I used 25 amp fuses as the Simer draw a higher amperage than the Johnson or Jabscos. ] The Simer Pumps are mounted in the front of the locker on the seat backs. Attached the hoses from the ball valves, and attached hoses then leading to the lower fittings on the bags. I ran the 10ft wires from the simer pumps up to the switches. Later I found the factory pump wiring in the Starboard locker tucked up under the edge so I used that and removed the extra wiring. Some of you will notice the giant rectangular holes the previous owner cut into the seat back for "bass ports" for the huge sub boxes he had in the lockers... I am building some covers to put over the pumps to protect them, and using those ports as vents with some slotted covers on the seat side. The poor boat was butchered by the audio install shop / last owner. I set the bags in the lockers, attached the vent line to the 5psi check valve (so the bags will go into a vacuum when emptying) and attached the check valve to the TOP of the bag. Here you can see how well the pumps empty out every last drop of water with the check valves shutting off the vent hose. That pretty much wrapped up the rear install. The original front install was very easy to do the piggy back as well. I removed this plug on the back of the factory center tank. Attached a matching threaded to barb adapter to the hole, and ran that hose to the front. The flyhigh bag is almost a perfect fit under the seat. Here it is on top. Here it is set under the seats empty. Here is the hose tucked up under the observers seat from the center tank. I put the hose on the port side lower flyhigh fitting because I wanted to try to be able to fill that side of the bag first seeing as how most of our riders are regular (port) riders. I forgot to take any pictures of drilling the bow bag vent thru-hull but I put it right below the starboard front tower mount just below the rub rail. I attached the vent line to the center upper fitting on the bow bag then to a check valve and then the vent thru-hull. Finally here it is full. It will pop the seat cushions up if no one is sitting in them. After all that agian I decided I didn't like the piggy back system and scrapped that idea. I put one more thru-hull in the bottom of the boat, and mounted the bow pump in the drivers foot area. From the pump I ran the hose to a Y and to both sides of the bow bag so it would empty correctly. I am VERY happy with how it works and now I just have to clean everything up and make it look pretty. I figure it puts 500# in front, 880# in the rears and whatever the factory center tank is 200-400#(?). For wakeboarding with a full crew of 6-7 it is too much weight for me to have it all full. The boat planes out, but has a hard time on the stock prop. If it is just myself and my wife it is still a bit too much but I am kind of a wimp... But for surfing with that crew of 4-6 sitting surf side, the surf side locker full, center tank full, and the bow bag full the wave is great! Just incase we have a light crew I have 4 launch pad 85# bricks to move around. So there you have it, that just ruined my whole evening putting this together...haha

We have seen a lot of new members in 2017, which is great! For the members that might not know, only two of us run and manage the community. We both have demanding full time jobs. We spend countless hours of our limited free time maintaining the site server, software, support, upgrades in general managing the community and that is just a part of what else goes on in the background. This year was a real under taking with the site upgrade that moved us to a completely new software version. While it may look relatively the same when using the site just about everything changed in the background and we were not expecting the learning curve. While figuring things out we still have a few more major things to do when time permits and we appreciate everyone patience. Not here to complain we do it because, we enjoy it, we get to meet new people that turn into lifelong friends and we always have something in common with everyone, our passion for spending time with family and friends on the water in our boats. We built the CenturionCrew.Com community which was launched over nine years ago. Life and priorities change over 9 years and sometimes managing the site can be a burden. Like the site going down while on a long needed vacation and trying to get it back online with cell phone with limited signal or spending an entire weekend instead of a few hours upgrading the site software because, of some unforeseen issues with incompatible software versions, server upgrades, etc. In nine years the community has grown to over 8,000 members currently, with new members joining on a daily basis. Out of the 8,000 plus members, only 70 of them are currently Supporting Members. Supporting memberships are what support the site/community. Considering the amount of time/hours we spend running and maintaining the site compared to the rate of return, most would wonder why we do it. Since the beginning we have said, as long as the financial burden does not fall solely on us we will continue to run, maintain and grow the community. This year there has been talk about hosting images, bandwidth, file size among other issues. At the end of the day becoming a Supporting Member solves all of the issues. It is $30 a year, $2.50 a month, $.08 a day to have unlimited bandwidth with the only restriction being the size of the image. The images just need to be resized and we believe we have automated the process with the most recent upgrade. The ironic thing is, so many members of this site talk about how much they get from it. Yet it seems they feel it is somehow not their responsibility to help support the very thing that brings them the advice they are looking for, friends from far and near they would have never met otherwise, the sense of pride from ownership of their Centurion/Supreme Boat and the spirit of sharing it with fellow boat owners within the community. Those that have been in the community for a while know we very seldom say anything about memberships or supporting the site. This is a community, we built it, launched it, maintain it, we never wanted to have to ask for members to support it, we just assumed that it would happen. Considering the fact we still put our person funds into the site, plus our free time, it is frustrating having to actually ask members of the community to support it. We need more members supporting the community they enjoy visiting on a reqular basis. Please consider purchasing one of the memberships outlined below. Centurion Boats Supporting Membership - $30.00 Annually - Upgraded to Centurion Forum Group - UpgradedCenturion Supporting Member Icon - Increased Disk space for attachments, pictures and video - Increased bandwidth - Increased User Profile Pic Size - Increased Private Messaging Storage with Attachments in Private Messaging - Personal signature - Private and Public Centurion Crew Picture/Media Gallery Supreme Boats Supporting Membership - $30.00 Annually - Upgraded to Supreme Forum Group - Upgraded Supreme Supporting Member Icon - Increased Disk space for attachments, pictures and video - Increased bandwidth - Increased User Profile Pic Size - Increased Private Messaging Storage with Attachments in Private Messaging - Personal signature - Private and Public Centurion Crew Picture/Media Gallery Centurion Dealer Supporting Membership - $100.00 Annually - Upgraded to Centurion Dealer Forum Group - Upgraded Centurion Dealer Supporting Member Icon - About the Dealer page in the Dealer Classifieds - Unlimited Centurion boat advertising in the Dealer Classifieds - Access to post Centurion Dealer events in News From Centurion Boat and Dealers Sub-Forum - Increased Disk space for attachments, pictures and video - Increased bandwidth - Increased User Profile Pic Size - Increased Private Messaging Storage with Attachments in Private Messaging - Personal signature - Private and Public Centurion Crew Picture/Media Gallery Overall, thanks for all of the support from everyone on the Crew over the past nine years, we truly appreciate everyone of you and are thankful for it. For those members that continue to support the community yearly we could not have done it without you. Thanks for helping to make the community what it is today! Be sure to share your thoughts on supporting the community and how the CenturionCrew.Com and SupremeCrew.Com community has help you through the years. Regards, Ken and Andrea

Alright lets all show our Centurions. Here is my 2008 Centurion Avalanche C4 Just picked it up Friday

We talked about this in the "Older Centurion" thread. Do you have a Tru-Trac or a Falcon? If yes, post a pic or multiple pics of it here. Have a good work around or modification, post it here. Questions? Post them here. I have some old brochures, I'll post them up this evening. Here's a pic of my 1993 open bow Falcon.

There are actually 4 of them in your boat. 2 large and 2 smaller forward. You can try calling centurion. They might be able to point you to a vendor. Otherwise, you’ll have to make them. I’d use plastic as thick as the U-channel on the floor will hold. I’d also reinforce them with U-channel aluminum on the engine side. 209-384-0255

People have cut a whole in that area and added a sub. However, it’s relatively thick fiberglass and not very easy to cut. I used to have a 2007 Avy, and my sub was on top of that area and worked out great there for whatever that’s worth.

Hit up fresh air exhaust FAE. They make stainless steel muffler replacements. I just put one on my boat.

Awesome upgrades. Great job on all the work.

Come to think of it, I think you’re right. The change was ‘23, not ‘22. It happened late last year, but they were ‘23 models. I’m not sure what all of the charges are, the dealer should have more detail on that, but either way, the ‘21 is a legit boat. Especially if you’re getting it for $15K less than a new S220.

Both boats are great options, and neither one needs extra weight to throw a second to none surf wave. Base on what you’ve said, assuming they’re similarly optioned, I’d go Fi23 all day. The Fi23 is a foot longer, will have better tech, and the Centurions have slightly higher grade vinyl than the Supremes. All that said, I should also note that the Fi23 was redesigned for ‘22, so the ‘21 isn’t the most recent model of the Fi if that matters to you. The ‘21 and ‘22 both have the opti-v hull.

The 396 hrs for an 8 yr old boat that has been well maintained wouldn’t scare me away. That said, the FS44 only has 142hrs for $2k-ish more.

It looks like a ProFlight Swoop tower. They were very common among the wakeboat manufacturers based in the CA Central Valley in the early-mid 2000’s.

Had to do the same thing with my 07 Avalanche. Ended up costing 6 grand, but the guy had to basically rebuild all the seats. Foam was toast all the way through. If yours aren't in the horrible shape mine were in, the upholstery shop should have an easier time replicating yours. I was the last job this guy was doing before retiring and moving - talk about a going away gift.

I have no such issues like above.. was just searching for Avalanche info and came across this thread. Much thanks to you @Dan gib for following through on these threads and posting. Finding a solution to the problem is helpful to many, even if it feels likes its on deaf ears. Kudos my man!

I'm not sure which latches came on your boat, but my '07 Avalanche and my '19 ZS232 both had/have these: https://www.boatoutfitters.com/surface-mount-cam-latch-black-with-chrome-handle

Thank you for the reply! Replaced the valves in the back and updated the computer and we were off to surfing! Can't thank #boardco enough for their help! Still get some ghosting but nothing like before. Still have to address the the annoying minute beep but will order a reader for that. Have you or anyone else had grounding issues with this year boat? When I flip my toggle to navigation everything turns on as if I push ignition button....not sure if that normal or not? Again thanks for the reply this boat is all new to me!

Depends how far you want to go up under the seat, my custom starboard sac would work. You can add more to the finger if you want to go farther up under the seat.

Yep. You're good to go. This is what the older hull with the cutouts looked like: https://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/threads/2002-centurion-23-concourse-mercury-350-mag-open-bow.176722/

does it have the rear hull cutouts in the outer corners? if so it won't surf as well as the later typhoons. they changed in '06 as far as i know but there may be some mid-year changes that i haven't heard of. if it's a continuous V in the rear, it will put out a great wave for surfing by just slamming the corner. i just upgraded to 1600lb bags on mine and the wave is awesome. another non-desirable on these is a walkthrough on the starboard side, so check if it has that. it's not an issue if you don't have any goofy riders, but might affect resale as most want the C4 model. the exhaust is referred to as "sideswipe." i converted mine to a single exhaust in the rear (link here), and Fresh Air Exhaust also offers conversion kits. most sideswipe valves have broken by now on these, and it's more expensive to replace both actuators than it would be to convert to FAE. if you don't mind the exhaust sound you could just leave it, but it gets loud at cruising speeds. i would check if there are 3 separate ballast pumps or if it's the OEM sprinkler valve system. if it's sprinklers, you'll want to add two more thru-hulls and dedicated pumps on them, otherwise your ballast fill times will be SLOW. you can do those for around $200/per, well worth it. all in all, a great surf boat with lots of room and handles chop well with the deep-v.

Just as a follow up, I wound up buying a 2019 Ri237. Purchased from Boardco and Tyler was great to deal with. Have already put 60 hours on it down in two trips to Havasu. Wave is fantastic. Day one, struggle fest. Day two, wave looking good. Day three, four, five, six etc, wave dialed. My SV230 threw a great wave. This is similar wave but much more predictable, better in chop, better push from the back, and really everything I was hoping for. Let me know if anyone thinking about a similar switch has questions and thanks for all the help.

As you probably already searched and found, this fault is Intake Air Temperature higher than expected (>200 deg F). Is the fault persistent after allowing some cool down time? What boat/year/model/engine are you working with? I would check the spark arrestor for any type of debris/blockage, clean the spark arrestor while I was at it, then test. If the problem persisted, replace the IAT sensor. I also found this. See page 46: http://www.wakeflot.ru/doc/PCM_Diagnostic_manual.pdf

Thanks for the heads up. The actuators to switch sides definitely work. I used them all last summer and just took them off the boat. I'll put them up in the Classifieds.

Shane, Its holding up fine, although we try and keep everything pretty clean, no shoes, etc. Yes happy with it. Way better than carpet.

Thanks Troy, just got off the phone with perfect pass and have one on the way!

It is surfable, but my understanding is that the cut out in the transom effect the wave some. You’ll want to throw some more weight under the port side seat. Fly high makes, what I think they’re calling, a 650 sac that will fit will. I’m not sure to what extent the cut out impacts the wave and what can be done to mitigate. Hopefully someone with that boat will chime in.

You can probably get this made by SendCutSend. They are a site that you send a cad to and they will machine whatever you like.

To my knowledge (I had an ‘07 Avy C4) the floor plan never changed.

That's going to be hard to find. But you should be able to find the manual for your engine. Sorry.

it's hard to tell from the pics since they won't increase in size, but my .02: leave that 800gph to fill the center 250lb tank, since you can't remove that tank anyway. sell the front ballast bag (u-shaped one) because these hulls don't like front weight. add two big bags in each of the rear lockers, two 1" thru-hulls and two tsunami 1200gph pumps to fill them. check if the stock yellow pumps in the lockers still work, and you can even leave those for a while if you want to save money as those will only affect drain times. i think they are 800gph drain pumps.

Thanks jtryon, and bigcatpt, I will Upload some pictures in a day or two. Maybe you guys can tell me what is worth keeping. Thanks

The hull is the same through all those years

Hey @newtonabbie, Me again! Haha! Unfortunately this site doesn't get near the traffic that it used to. When I first joined in the 2010 timeframe, this place was hoppin' and was such a great place to get boating and specifically Centurion information. I don't do social media, so it's my only boating outlet. So, we took a real good look at the FI23 as well in our search. I loved the upgraded tech, ramfill, fit/finish of the FI23 over the ZS232. My wife actually preferred the look of the ZS and decided she would prefer to go the ZS route even BEFORE she knew the $$ difference. Hahaha! That, and of course the cost difference, drove us toward the ZS. The size/interior space is very comparable between the 2 boats. The ZS actually sits a little taller (has higher freeboard) and as such is a little heavier/more tow weight, but its marginal (maybe 150-200 lbs). They have VERY similar running surfaces (Opti-V on the FI, Tapered-V on the ZS) and very similar weight when fully ballast loaded. They both throw a phenomenal surf wave. I never got to the point where I tested the FI, but based on the input of my local dealer, they said the ZS wave is actually a little better if you're looking at wave alone (leaving out all of the other obvious upgrades of the FI over the ZS). In reality, The running surfaces, weight, size, and surf systems are so similar on the 2 boats, I doubt most would be able to tell the difference in the waves.

Just got back from demoing a beautiful ri230 red and black metal Flake. It drove beautiful. It felt solid and was shocked how quiet it was. Surf wave was impressive as expected. It looks to be quality built and looks the part. If I had to nit pick, seat storage cushions didn’t have shocks to hold the seats up and not all the cushions are hinged. Some wires and brackets were exposed. A little disappointing for $200+k. But I can look past all that since it does so many other things well and for the awesome ride quality and waves it puts out. We decided we need the extra space, so it will be a ri245 for us. Now just trying to workout a price before we order.

Awesome Beerman, thanks for taking such good care of it. Its in super good shape for its age. We're really enjoying the boat. Got everything winterized, changed fluids, took out impeller, etc. last weekend. Only issue is that in order to get the impeller out had to remove the exhaust due to swapping out the sideswipe, it was so close. Pro tip for everybody with a heater. Not sure where I read it, probably on here. Take off the heater hoses and use an air compressor to blow out the water. Dump some rv antifreeze in there and run the air compressor again till it comes out. Even though I ran rv antifreeze through the whole system there was still some water in the heater. Winter projects include: Add in valve for winterizing/flushing system. This one: https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/product/~product_id=40615 And get the infinity wave system installed. Hope everybody has a good winter. Hope next spring comes soon.

Wake shapers were not out yet when I had my Avy either, but my understanding is that the Avy hull is better off without a wake shaper and just using good ole' displacement to lean it over. We would run ours with the rear corner of the rubrail under water.

Thanks for the tips guys. Following the advice here (starboard tanks full, port side empty, people sitting the starboard side, trim all the way down) produced a much better wave on the starboard side. Not quite as large as on the port side or as clean, but pretty close. Before the adjustments there was no surf-able wave on the starboard side. The goofy surfer is happy.

And a couple more.

If you want push button start that's one thing but to buy it just to be able to keep the stereo on when turning off the boat is the wrong reason and spending money where you don't need to. When I purchased my boat same thing happened every time I'd turn the ignition off the stereo would shut down. All I did was find the power wire that feed the stereo rocker switch and run it to the power block that is supplied by the batt. That way the rocker switch is powered whether the ignition is turned on or off and you can control the stereo and components with the rocker and not be dependent on ignition power.

If you space turning the pump off it will burn the impeller up. No big deal on the in because you have water running through it and it will just blow out the overflow but when you reverse and pump out if you run it dry you are spinning a rubber impeller up against the housing wall with no coolant. on mine the switch got bumped and I started smelling burnt rubber. Also after a bunch of years those impellers can get brittle and crack.

Usually to get a longer wave....add bow ballast, or in lieu of that, you can add some center trim tab. Weight in bow is likely better tho, that is how I get my wave longer in my SV244. You can also speed up some to make it longer, but I like 11-11.2mph, so I add bow ballast and/or trim. It will knock down the size of wave a little...but if you have 100% full in rear, you should have plenty of counter to have a high enough wave either way.

Thanks guys! We are at 7500 elevation and altitude HP loss along with a heavily weighted boat are the real issue here. I've tried swapping props but do not want to trade off top end speed for hole shot. Looking for alternatives and this one seemed pretty good.

Welcome to the forum. Is the steering wheel similarly difficult to turn when it's on the trailer? You probably need to grease your rudder or replace your steering cable, or both. You don't have power steering, it's just a cable that runs from the helm to the rudder. Someone on here has had at least temporary luck in greasing the cable by forcing grease down in the sheathing, but it's technically not a servicable part. As a rule of thumb, always leave your steering wheel turned all the way to the left when the boat is parked. That keeps the end of the cable inside the sheathing and protected from moisture in the bilge.

Thanks in advance for reading this. I have a 97 ski centurion that I am reupholstering and I need to remove the drivers seat. It sits on a black platform just barely inches off the ground. There is a slider bar that lets you slide the seat forward and backwards while you are sitting in it. No matter where the seat is slid it is impossible to access some of the screws that bolt the platform to the boat deck. I have no clue how to remove this seat! It is driving me crazy! There must be an easy way to get this seat to slide off from the platform. It would be impossible for the factory guys to install these seats otherwise. Does anyone have any suggestions? Any help is helpful.

i know this is bringing up an old thread but have just done this on mine. had to remake the cup holder section to reposition the cup holders and to make room for the speaker. there is also a hole for the speakers cushion frame you just have to cut the vinyl, but the speaker is out there to get damaged by careless kids. in the cup holder holder area i feel is less likely to get damaged by a stray elbow or foot.

adding grease to the rudder helps it seal out water it will do nothing for hard steering.If the boat steering wheel does not spin with one finger when out of the water it is time for a new cable.................H