Leaderboard

Finally got rid of my carpet and replaced the old flooring with Gator Step. Took a little time to get the template right but very pleased with the results.

I just had to replace my steering cable on my 05 SV230 and figured I’d add a few things that might be helpful. First, as I understand it, Teleflex no longer exists and was replaced by SeaStar so the new part number is SSCX15420. I ordered from Fredwarner.net and it cost $150 w/free shipping. I followed a lot of the guidance from above, but just to add a little more, I had to remove both water hoses from the back of the water pump to make accessing everything easier. Just unscrew the hose clamps and they pull off. I didn’t need to remove the water pump or sideswipe and was able to reach the cotter pin on the pitman arm fairly easy, and I’m on the husky side. The hardest part was getting the threaded nut on the steering cable unscrewed from the shaft housing that’s held in place by the clamp with the 4 bolts. I used an adjustable wrench but I THINK it’s about a 1 ¼” nut if you have a wrench that big. You could always take the new cable to a hardware store and find the right size wrench since the nuts are the same size. The shaft housing would turn with the nut when I would try to loosen the nut, but not as much as the nut, so it eventually came off but was a tedious process. I sprayed PB Blaster on the threads but I’m not sure if that even made a difference, perhaps some vice grips would help if you could fit them in there. Once I got that unscrewed, I pulled the cable/shaft out of the housing and then tied a rope to the end of the shaft where the retaining bolt would normally be. Before I could pull the cable out from the helm, I had to remove the paneling underneath the dash on the floorboard to access the hole where the cable comes out. The cable/nut got hung up on the gas tank, so I removed the floor panel to get access to the cable. This was well worth the few extra minutes, plus it made it easier to pull the new cable back through. I also agree that it’s much better to buy a new cotter pin; I tried the old one to no avail, but a new one went in on the first try. It’s definitely helpful to have a second person to lend a hand but is possible to do yourself. All together from start to finish, it took me about 3hrs which includes re-installing the under dash paneling and floor panel along with centering the steering wheel and rudder.

Ended up replacing starting battery and all good now.

Sure this is my 85 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pZNl9UcEQoLYdknQXSFeNsEmpnGCzcXu/view?usp=sharing This is my 86 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o7att_AaOzodIeOW9tc1KOzkRCn48Loy/view?usp=sharing

My Diacom software showed up. I installed it on a Windows 10 image in Parallels on my MacBook Pro. The software was able to read everything on my engine, and was able to clear my old O2 sensor codes. Other than the price, the software seems fairly good. It gave a histogram of how my engine has been run, the Amount of time At each RPM level, the octane of the fuel, etc. It also reads fuel flow while the engine is running. I plan to take it out this weekend and record some runs to see how the boat performs.