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We put together a series of videos on how to best optimize the surf wave on your Centurion boat. The videos are broken down into Wakesurfing 101, 201 and 301. Here are some details on each video: Setting Up Your Wakesurf Wave 101 – This video is for when you are first getting started and goes through the basics of how to create a great surf wave that anyone will be able to jump on and enjoy. Setting Up Your Wakesurf Wave 201 – Once you have the basics down this video will help you take it to the next level. In the 201 video we show you how you can use all of the features on your Centurion boat to customize the surf wave based on the rider size, rider skill level, board they are riding on and more. If you are ready to take your wave from great to amazing this video will help you do that. Setting Up Your Wakesurf Wave 301 – In this video we go the extra step to show you how the professional riders and drivers set their boats up. This gets to a level of customization and intensity that is more than a lot of people want to get into but if you want to see how we set things up for pro riders, check this one out! We hope these videos will be helpful and that you can use them to get the most out of your boat. Happy Surfing!

What’s up everyone, so it’s been quite a while since I first got my boat and started this old thread but I thought I would just give a little update. Ended up getting the Aviator tower and went a little crazy with the stereo among many many other projects on it haha. I will say that I am very appreciative of this site as there has been a ton of content that I researched and read through that really helped me out along the way!

Brought the Fi home today. We did purchase it from Pat and his crew at Northwest Boat Sports in Oregon City. Very attentive hard working team. They are all ready to step up to help their customers. Ian took us for a demo to show how to set it up for wakesurfing awesomeness. Brian was great helping with the details. It has been a pleasure to do business with them. Looks like we might have light wind tomorrow so hopefully will get on the water. Picked up a new Soulcraft with the boat so ready to step up our game. All the best, Hein & Kim

We are bringing our Fi25 home on Tuesday. I'll be happy to answer questions as we get to know it. All the best, Hein

We brought home our 2019 Fi25 last week and had our first session the day after. I consider myself lucky to score a session on a new toy the day after I get it. It doesn't always work out that way. One result of that quickness to rally kept me from having the opportunity to mount the rear view mirror which came with the boat. That proved to be a challenge as we tried adjust the surf settings without really being able to see the wave change. I am not a fan of mirrors clamped on the windshield anyway and wanted to try a rear view camera instead. That is the upgrade that this first post is about. We purchased a rear view camera and display on Amazon a few days before picking up the boat from NWBS in Oregon City. https://amzn.to/2DEgZTg I spent some time figuring out how and where to mount the display above the OEM dash in good view of the driver without blocking the view in front of the boat. Scratched my head a bit, took some patterns, did some CAD work and machined some parts shown below next to the display for the camera. Figured out where to place the camera on the back of the boat. Wire was run along the right side under the seats. Then continued to fit the CNC'd mounts to the dash. Happy these were a perfect fit right off the bat. This step usually requires some iteration of CAD tweaks and CNCing of more parts until the fit is right. A bit of skill and luck this time around. Used some 3M VHB to attach the mounts to the back of the display. This camera is designed with some straps that normally wrap around a rear view mirror. I trimmed those off and removed the pads that rest against the mirror surface. That is were my brackets attach to the back with the VHB. Then I mounted the camera on the dash. I will add some VHB between the mounts and dash to hold it in place. This was just a test fit to verify the position. Here is the view from the driver seat. Back of barn and CNC machine are shown in the image. We will have to see if this is angled right when on the water but think it looks pretty good. Note that the display is actually upside down. The camera is designed to be mounted above a license plate on the underside of the cover that normally is above them. Having the display upside down actually improved the wire routing which I still need to clean up a bit. So this all worked out for the better. This camera also has a built in front view cam which can 'see' through' the windshield but we won't be using that feature. It can record and do a host of other things which may be fun to try. We can actually record our sessions on a thumb drive so that might be cool. It's 1080P so resolution will be pretty good. Will post some videos when we get a chance to test it out. All the best, Hein

It Shipped this morning! Should be here Saturday. Here are a few pics that the salesman send today.

A woofer change will not address this, as the current enclosure is the biggest factor in how the woofer sounds. You would need to change the enclosure volume. If the woofer is whats making all the unwanted noise, then you need to first determine if any external factor was the root case, before installing a new woofer.

2020 Ri257 (w/LSX). Canadian Blue Sparkle and White. Interior is standard white, hex black, hex deep bronze. I'm not swooned by the bombshell racks, so I have a set of PTM Edge wide-mouth clamp racks I'm trying to figure out how to get the right brackets to get mounted. Sorry for the kids tubing pic, its' one of the few I have with the interior. Our adults crew is 95% wakesurf.. and we hope to get the kids into it too. (my kids are only 6 and 8 y/o)

Thanks guys! Glad I could help Josh! Yeah, that’s what I seen/read Mob. I don’t do FB though. When it first started I told my wife “that’s the devil and I will never have an account”. Haha! at this point I’m kinda committed to that take! Haha! We can’t wait to get that ZS out on the water and get back to surfing!

Quick followup.. I went with the Ri257 (with the LSX) -- in all honesty because the Ri is more of a known quantity for me. I've spent 30+ hours on two different Ri257s, and I love the boat. It also became obvious from BoardCo answers that having the same hull means the boats are so similar it comes down to preferences. I was able to finally see an Fi23 in person, and overall I like the calmer RI styling and slightly higher freeboard for big Lake Tahoe, so that's the way I went. We took delivery two days ago.. and we couldn't be happier. Picture below. @BoardCo - Thanks so much for all your help answering questions on here, and posting awesome youtube videos of Centurions on the water! They really made a large purchase decision much easier. Your answer above helped me shed the FOMO of not having the Fi ski-pylon. @Duneit - We bought from https://www.mellomarine.com/ in Folsom, CA. Sally and Brandy have been fantastic to work with. Sally (the owner) negotiated the COVID-modified Tahoe boat inspection restrictions for us to get it in the water asap, and has been great.

New gas new filter drained can could not get can all the way off big black hose in the way of dropping down far enough so I just sucked out the gas in can and put back together fired right up and ran with no codes so thank you for your help

Sad this forum is not as busy as it used to be since so many jumped to the Facebook groups .. the FB groups are not nearly as easy to search, and the threads do not get organized well ...

Finally did mine but went with the Angled Starboard and Port side specific LED's.

I just had to replace my steering cable on my 05 SV230 and figured I’d add a few things that might be helpful. First, as I understand it, Teleflex no longer exists and was replaced by SeaStar so the new part number is SSCX15420. I ordered from Fredwarner.net and it cost $150 w/free shipping. I followed a lot of the guidance from above, but just to add a little more, I had to remove both water hoses from the back of the water pump to make accessing everything easier. Just unscrew the hose clamps and they pull off. I didn’t need to remove the water pump or sideswipe and was able to reach the cotter pin on the pitman arm fairly easy, and I’m on the husky side. The hardest part was getting the threaded nut on the steering cable unscrewed from the shaft housing that’s held in place by the clamp with the 4 bolts. I used an adjustable wrench but I THINK it’s about a 1 ¼” nut if you have a wrench that big. You could always take the new cable to a hardware store and find the right size wrench since the nuts are the same size. The shaft housing would turn with the nut when I would try to loosen the nut, but not as much as the nut, so it eventually came off but was a tedious process. I sprayed PB Blaster on the threads but I’m not sure if that even made a difference, perhaps some vice grips would help if you could fit them in there. Once I got that unscrewed, I pulled the cable/shaft out of the housing and then tied a rope to the end of the shaft where the retaining bolt would normally be. Before I could pull the cable out from the helm, I had to remove the paneling underneath the dash on the floorboard to access the hole where the cable comes out. The cable/nut got hung up on the gas tank, so I removed the floor panel to get access to the cable. This was well worth the few extra minutes, plus it made it easier to pull the new cable back through. I also agree that it’s much better to buy a new cotter pin; I tried the old one to no avail, but a new one went in on the first try. It’s definitely helpful to have a second person to lend a hand but is possible to do yourself. All together from start to finish, it took me about 3hrs which includes re-installing the under dash paneling and floor panel along with centering the steering wheel and rudder.

Hi again, all. Thought I'd post a quick update. We took the boat out about a week ago for a test run. Prior to heading out, I poured in two bottles of HEET to help absorb any water or bad gas. At the lake, we had the same problems with acceleration. It idles fine, goes okay at low speed, but dies out when going for higher speeds. We ended up getting it started and were able to drive slowly back and load it on the trailer. A couple nights later, I took off the old water separating fuel filter and poured the contents into a glass jar to see if there was water choking out the fuel system. There was no sign of water, sediment, particles, or anything. So as far as I can tell, there's no water in the fuel. (Glad to know that the filter is working well, tho.) When I went to O'reilly Auto this morning to pick up another Sierra Water Separating Fuel Filter (they can order them and have them in about a day for about $2 more than Amazon), I talked to one of the guys there. His brother used to have a Ski Nautique and Moomba, so he knows the engines and layout a bit. He said that since there's no problem with the actual fuel (from what I could see), the problem has to be in fuel delivery - most likely the fuel pump. He said that if the fuel pump diaphragm is cracked, it could have enough pressure to delivery the fuel at lower speeds. It wouldn't sputter or anything, but appear to be fine at lower speeds. But upon acceleration, when the diaphragm is working harder to deliver fuel to the engine, it won't be able to keep up, and the engine would end up stalling out. He said on trucks with the Chevy 350 small block engine, if there's a problem with the fuel pump (cracked diaphragm or whatever), the excess fuel gets squirted out of the pump as you drive, and it ends up on the ground or somewhere else on the pump housing where it can evaporate. But you can't do that on a lake, so the gas ends up being sent to the crankcase and mixes with the oil. So he said to pull the dipstick, wipe it on a clean paper towel, dip again, wipe again, and then smell. If it smells of gas, then it's probably a bad fuel pump. So I came home, followed the steps and..... It smells a heck of a lot like there's gas mixed in with my oil! I had just changed the oil in our 4Runner (full synthetic, but should have a similar smell to regular used oil), and I smelled both of them separately. The oil from the boat DEFINITELY smells of gas. So the next step is going to be to put on a new fuel pump, new water separating fuel filter, change the oil... and then at some point, I'll get the steering cable (got it from Ron today) and the bilge pump done, too. Thanks for helping out, @Timr71 and @InfinitySurf. I'll keep everyone in the loop as I move forward. I feel like I'm finally on the right path!

I did it! Got a really good deal on the new one and the trade-in. Can't wait to get it in the water. Thanks for the responses!

Newbie to the page! 1994 Ski Centurion LaPoint Tru Trac. PCM 351 Pro-Tec. The Cadillac of ski boats 26 years ago.

Just picked this up, works quite well. I can grab my drink or put it down without taking my eyes off the lake ahead. Heavy enough it doesn’t move around even over most waves. Called the beverage bandit.

A few things here: The Fi25 and Ri257 ride almost identically in rough water - you will be VERY happy with either one. The Ri257 has a tow point above the swim platform that is ideal for tubes. You can ski from this point but from my experience, the tower is a better spot. As far as this goes, it is one of the common misconceptions I run into when talking to people about skiing. People consider it near blasphemy to talk about water skiing from the tower, but for 90% of people who ski it is actually a better tow point than a pylon. It allows recreational skiers to get up easier and reduces overall drag once they are up. The benefit of having a lower tow point really only matters if you are pulling HARD through the wake and honestly if you are pulling hard enough to justify going to a pylon you aren't going to want to ski behind a Fi25 / Ri257 anyway. To give you some background I am a tournament skier, I own a Carbon Pro boat (along with a Ri257) and spend time in a buoy course regularly. When I ski behind a Fi25 or Ri257 I am barely impacted by skiing from the tower. This point causes me some frustration because for most people skiing from the tower is not just ok, but it is actually BETTER than skiing from a pylon, but when I suggest it I get weird looks like I don't know what I'm doing haha. Jack (one of our guys here) gets the same reactions and he can run into 34 off in a course (which if you aren't familiar is REALLY good). The Ri257 ski wake isn't quite as good as the Fi25, but they are close. Out of the box the Ri257 puts out a slightly better surf wave while the Fi25 has a slightly better ski wake. They have the same running surface and the only reason for the difference is the Ri257 is slightly heavier. That said, most people wouldn't be able to tell a difference between them as far as ski wake goes. As far as stereo control goes, you can have an automatic volume adjustment installed but you can save a lot of cost and actually get better functionality by installing an app on your phone called Volumatic. It is AWESOME and a lot better than the volume controls that are set to RPM in my opinion, plus it only sets you back about $10. The Supra SE550 has some great features and is a really nice boat. There are some nice features on Supra but for me there are at least 2 BIG things you will miss out on vs. a Centurion. The most important factor that can't be overcome with modifications is the rough water ride. If you are using the boat on Tahoe the water can get ugly fast and having a boat that won't beat you up or scare you going through 5-foot waves is a must in my book. The next one is the surf wave on the Centurion is a lot better out of the box. You can get the Supra to throw out a great wave, but if you do much research you will find that pretty much everyone is running 1,000 lbs. of lead to get it to surf on the level of a stock Fi25/Ri257. If you cruise around a lot that is a problem since you can't get rid of it. The other downside that is just speculation from me is that the ski wake on the Supra wouldn't be as good. Supra boats have a very stiff wakeboard wake and from my experience, that translates to a stiff ski wake. I haven't skied behind one, but I have heard the ski wake is actually worse than a Centurion just because of the wake shape. The best thing to do if you are looking at one is taking them both for a drive, the difference will become clear very quickly. Lastly, the H6 engine will work fine for you but you probably wouldn't be disappointed with the 550 (for 2020 it will be the new LSX engine). If you cruise around a bit the added power and reduced RPM on at cruising speed is really nice. As far as reliability goes, its a bit early to tell on the LSX but thus far they have had no problems at all and should be more reliable than the XR7 (550 Supercharger) was. The main benefit is similar power but the engine is naturally aspirated so longevity and reliability should be better. It's a new engine for the boat world but it has been bulletproof in cars for a while so we anticipate really good things. If there is anything we can do to help you out on the boat decision process at all let me know. Thanks!

Took delivery of our ZS232 a couple weeks ago.

Wakedirt, in my experience, shapers don’t work well on a 226....the wave is really good listed....that being said, I went down the path of a GSA system. It’s pricy, but it’s worth the money......it does require at least 4K in ballast to throw a big wave.

Post up pictures of your finished boat garage!I built my 24ft boat a new detached garage when I built my new home recently. I fully insulated and installed a wall unit so I could heat/cool the space. Its done a great job, only thing I did not realize when I bought it was that the lowest heat setting is 61 degrees and there are times when it would be nice to set it too 50 degrees. But its been very efficient since I was careful to insulate well and use a LOT of spray foam and I cannot complain. Moved in Sept 2018....and FINALLY just got the garage set up like I had been planning, just need to properly organize all my tools and boat stuff now. When I designed the garage, I wanted to be able to maximize the space since the boat is roughly 27ft long on the trailer with the tongue folded and swim platform on (I use it to get into boat) and about 9.5ft wide from fender to fender on width. The garage is 32ft long X 16ft wide with 12x12 garage door (ceiling of garage is 13' tall). Since it has 2x6 walls, inside comes to basically 31ft long X 15ft wide.I wanted to be able to bring the boat home from a day on the lake, and from inside the boat, remove everything if I wanted to without having to climb in/out of the boat. Same for loading up, so I can choose what surf boards, kids toys, etc.....that we want on the lake that day without getting out. I usually remove the seats to make sure the boat dries out and I never get any mildew or wet smell....so I built 3 wood racks on the side for the seat, and 2) 4x8 metal racks that hang down from the ceiling 42". This allows me to reach all the main things for the boat by either standing on the gunnels (I installed decking on gunnels for grip), or standing on the rear walk-thru transom. Then I also added as many metal shelving units at rear that I could (have 3 installed so far) those are for tools, boat supplies, oil change equip and all the other fun stuff....and am putting a "Gladiator" wall system up to hang things like rakes, shovels and other misc. On left wall, I still have 8 of those to install which will finish filling up that wall.I got this all done while boat was at the shop over the last 2 weeks...brought her home last night and backed her in for the first time and am pretty happy with how things turned out, everything fits perfectly, tho just barely in some areas. I planned to epoxy the garage floor in the Spring and think that I will put down something (maybe a colored line in the paint), so when I back in, I know to keep my tire on the line since I only have roughly 6" on each side of wiggle room to keep boat where I want it so I still have access to walk down either side of the boat since there will still be some things on the floor. I need to install some kind of "tire stop" as well so I can keep the depth correct.

Update: The block to add an Air Chair to the Maximus tower does not need a separate angle adapter and fits just fine. So far it has worked terrific.

Able to check another small item off the list last night. Was having trouble getting the oil changed, no matter what I tried couldnt get the siphon tube down the dip stick tube. Finally figured out that the threads at the top of the dipstick fit a garden hose. Heres what I came up with, couple pumps and the oil started flowing. And after changing the filter a remote filter looks really appealing. Man what a pain. Used a couple plastic bags and was able to catch all the oil though, so no mess.

Thanks a bunch for all your advice guys. I decided the 2014 SV233 was my best option (newer, CATS, Ramfill, updated touchscreen, high altitude Acme 1847 prop, better looking exterior/interior) and made a deal today - HOORAY! The boat market in western Canada is much smaller and is crazy hot right now (as it turned out the 2012 SV233 I was considering also sold today) so I am thrilled to have secured a great surf boat now. The dealer agreed to give me first shot if any comparable Centurions came in on trade with 409 in the next few months. Many thanks to everyone on the Centurion Crew site for all the great posts - this is such a great resource.

Thanks for your perspective and advice on this. It is looking like pricing on used Centurion is universally (at least on the east coast) the same as you describe in TX. Definitely willing and able to go higher, not so certain I will have the opportunity. There are other very similar boats across state lines, so all is not lost. One thing I have read about here and other places is the importance dealer support and relationship, which is what makes me so concerned about the "vibe" of this interaction and what the future might hold if I end up buying this one. They're not the closest to me, but I hate to alienate anyone nonetheless. I'm in NC, but appreciate the offer for sure. I'll be spending a few early weekday mornings on the ramp when nobody is around to try to get my act together. Hopefully this will help me avoid or minimize the stage fright factor when a line of experienced folks are waiting for me to back down the ramp and launch.

Heres the deal, its mostly about surface area. Two 12's in a ported enclosure is nearly 4X the surface area as a single 12 in a sealer or free-air (infinite-baffle) setup. So you would definitely experience a reduction in overall bass output.

My 08 Avy listed. Just my wife in the boat.

Calling all Fi23 owners! With it being such a new boat, how about we get a discussion going to share all mods, tips & tricks related to the Fi23. Here’s some of our fun mods so far to get things started. Cheers!

I installed a new swim ladder for my boat, even with ballast its hard for my mom and some others to get up at times and I wanted them to feel comfortable since I had not heard any negative feedback regarding the swim ladder effecting the surf wave (and I can now confirm that it does not effect my surf wave the way I did it). Since only the new boats come with metal glassed in under the platforms and I have been too busy to go thru all that extra work, I decided to try something new as I did not want to use carriage bolts, I didnt want to drill thru my platform and then also have to replace the SeaDeck. That process didnt seem very strong to me, I imagine that will also let water into the center of the swim platform and for a guy as OCD as I am, I just couldnt bring myself too it. My thinking is if the process I used below fails.... then I will take the time to glass in stainless metal strips and will just cover the holes I made doing it this way. So, I ended up using 5/16" brass nutserts, 4 on each side and bolted up the frame using 5/16" stainless hex head bolts. 3/4" long would work but I did 1" long thinking that since the center of the swim platform is filled with the fiber I would drill the size hole needed for the nutsert and then "mushroom" the bottom of the cavity so I could add epoxy and strengthen it (I used a smaller drill bit and a hand pick to mushroom the bottom). It was time consuming but I after I prepped it all and had the nutserts ready to install.... I filled the hole with epoxy (I used a 2-part) and then inserted the nutsert using a makeshift bold. Immediately after the nutsert was in, I covered the bolt threads with wax so I could remove the bolts later (I used a commode wax ring for this) and then ran the bolt down all the way, it went thru the nutsert and into the epoxy bed I had created below it so the epoxy would cure around the bolt threads. I let it cure for 24hrs before removing the bolts so I could finish the install. I used 3M 4200 to seal everything and bolted down the swim ladder frame securely and then let that cure for another 24hrs. My thinking was that doing it this way, the swim ladder would be held not only by the nutsert which was also partially imbedded into the epoxy, but the bolts also continue threading into the epoxy and since the cavity was mushroomed, it would spreading out the weight more efficiently, this is also partially why I bought a swim ladder that had 8 bolt holes, but I also wanted one that had a spring loaded latch so the ladder would stay in place without velcro/rope holding it. I honestly don't know if my theory was correct on imbedding the bolts into the epoxy, but this swim ladder does not budge at all, I have probably been out 4 times since the install without any issues! Just before I started my install, I found another guy on the Malibu forum who was also installing his swim ladder the same way! Funny that we both had similar ideas.... I dont think he did the epoxy quite like I did, but he said his also turned out very strong. This is the ladder I bought ,NovelBee 3 Step Undermount Sliding Boat Ladder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YZL4MWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 5/16" nutserts Holes with mushroomed cavity Bolt threads waxed and threaded thru nutsert and into epoxy to cure 3M 4200 to seal frame before bolting it up Installed

So I am very happy with the mod. With the 15.5 inch prop, I gained 2 mph at top end. Dropped 400 rpm at surf speed and 24 mph cruise speed. Does 28 at old 24 mph rpms. Holds all ballast with no issues now for surfing. I was able to accelerate to 15 mph (upstream) with all ballast full with testing quicksurf (with the 14 inch prop I could not get above 9). At normal lean I was at 3100 rpm for surfing setup. So if you have enough adjustments in your engine mounts (room to go up in front and down in back) and enough clearance in the through hull, then this mod is 100% worth doing. I am very happy.

Final install pictures

Multiple locations on the web will ship very quickly. I just ordered 2 water impeller pumps (one is for next year) from skidim.com and they shipped it that morning. They are located in SC. Depending on where your located it should get there by the weekend. I can't imagine it would be very difficult to change. A couple of hoses and bracket bolts to unscrew. The most difficulty thing is always the accessing the part that needs changing. I believe Skidim may also cross reference the engine you list and help make sure the parts are properly chosen. By the way, never order water pumps, spark plugs (especially the expensive ones), belts and other critical components from Amazon they are notorious for faulty, phony counterfeited products they will break.

I’ve still got to button up everything and tighten the engine mounts, and get the strut bolts 4200’d and tightened, but here are a few pics of the change in clearance. On the supercharged engine, it is a pain to get to the six bolts. I’ll post some more pics later this week of the alignment and prop log clearances. After talking to ACME, they are recommending a 15.5x15 prop even if I have clearance for a 16” one, so I am going to hold off on countersinking the steel plate to see how the 15.5 performs. I should have slightly more clearance for the 15.5 than I currently have on the 14

Thread revival from the DEAD! I finally got my Krypt board rack put up after about 4 years. Bought them on clearance years back and I've always had DIY pvc racks for years. Wanted something a little more streamlined for the new shop (which isn't new now after 4 years ) Anyway here it is!!

I recently purchased a 4" seat riser from WakeBallast.com. Customer Service was impressive and delivery was very fast! (Just an FYI....they have a 15% discount code for Centurion guys, the code is "centurion-crew"). Listed price on the website is $269 with free shipping (then deduct the 15% discount). Obviously I am not affiliated with them, just impressed with everything about this seat riser and think this is gonna make an already enjoyable experience even better. I like to be aware at all times on the lake cause so many people out there that are not paying attention and have almost been run into several times over the years, so I always use my bolster so that I am looking over the windshield. Its not bad, but sitting on the bolster is not as comfortable as using the actual seat and I also thot this would make my wife happier. Considering she is willing to drive for me when we go out so I get to surf, making her happy and keeping her comfortable is a priority! Not only does the 4" seat riser raise the drivers seat to the perfect level for me without using the bolster...but a nice side perk I discovered today after installing it, is if I want to stand while driving, I can raise the bolster and while standing, comfortably lean back against the seat/bolster without the seat hitting me in the back of the knees and making it uncomfortable to stand for a while. I am attaching pics below of parts of my install as well as the finished product. The website says these 4" seat risers work for all the RI/FI models as well as 2013-2015 SV233/SV244 models with the Springfield Seat Mounts (My boat is a 2014 SV244 and has the Springfield seat mount). They also said on the FB page that this riser will fit the Supreme 238....but verify that as the website has a typo. Added bonus, this seat riser doubles as a strongbox. The front panel is keyed so you can put valuables in there and lock them up. FYI...these sell out FAST! They just got new stock in 5 days ago and have already sold 13. The website shows that there is only 1 left right now but if it shows them out of stock, Shane said to call them since sometimes they have them in stock and the website does not show it correctly. 2 things I personally did at the install. The 1st, I needed to do to complete the install....and the other was just my OCD kicking in. *I don't know if the hole pattern is slightly different on my boat compared to the new RI/FI boats, or if they are all slightly different due to these boats being handmade, but the 4 hole pre-drilled pattern at the bottom of the seat riser was a little bit off compared to the factory bolt holes, off roughly an 1/8th inch front to back....and then side to side. I just drilled the existing 4 holes at bottom of seat riser to a slightly larger diameter of 1/2" each (they came pre-driled at roughly 3/8" dia). Took me 15mins and once bolted down to the factory base, the riser was perfectly stable with zero movement. I also added a very thin piece of rubber backing between the top of the actual Seat platform that is part of the boat and the bottom of the seat riser where bolts go in.....and also at the top of the seat riser and the bottom of the metal seat base that is part of the Springfield seat mount. Not necessary, but figured it keeps the metal on the seat riser from rubbing directly on either one of them and keep it looking perfect that much longer, also figured that rubber helps to hold it down tight without any squeaks or rubs down the road. (To clarify, I added 2 - 3" wide strips at bottom/top of the seat riser). *I Included 1 picture showing the added strips of rubber, its the 6th picture attached below and you can see the grey colored strips adhered to the bottom of the metal seat base laying on the floor of boat (7th picture is close up showing the slight spacing that the padding adds between the top of the seat base and the bottom of the metal seat base). The rubber padding is only about 1/16" thick, adhesive on 1 side and a rubber "grid" pattern on the other. (Its actually sold to put on the floor of house in areas where you have a small rug and don't want it too move, sticks to the floor and the rubber helps to keep the rug in place). Something I had laying around and thot it would be useful for this install. Attaching link below as well as the pictures I took today as I installed this. https://www.wakeballast.com/centurion-boat-for-ri-and-fi-model-4-inches-seat-glove-box-riser-lift-free-shipping/

Finally got rid of my carpet and replaced the old flooring with Gator Step. Took a little time to get the template right but very pleased with the results.

Sure this is my 85 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pZNl9UcEQoLYdknQXSFeNsEmpnGCzcXu/view?usp=sharing This is my 86 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o7att_AaOzodIeOW9tc1KOzkRCn48Loy/view?usp=sharing

if it doesn't have a dripless shaft seal, you should 100% install one first. the best thing to do is to keep water out of the boat, particularly the bilge where it can splash on everything.

On #1, it does sound fuel related and probably the first thing would be to look at the carb and potentially do a re-build... if any ethenol fuel was left in there and the boat sat for a period of time, it could be gunked up in some places, perhaps clogging a jet. If it ran fine the first time you test drove it and then didnt.... point to possible trash in the fuel clogging something. However, it also points toward replacing any fuel filters you have in-line since it sounds like as you bump up the rpm, it starves for fuel and stalls so its not delivering the fuel the motor needs to run at the higher rpm's. I would also suggest replacing the fuel lines since if they are original they could be badly degraded on the inside, some of those old fuel lines will collapse as you increase rpm and not allow fuel flow. Doing a tune up is also in the cards since it could be related and is something you want to do regardless unless you know it was done recently....new plugs, wires and replace the distributor cap. Distributor cap gets corrosion on it and is a "wear item" and meant to be replaced every so often. That can cause all kinds of strange issues to happen. Don't forget replacing/servicing the impeller as that is really important to a healthy engine...at very least pull it and check the condition. (Pro tip)....use something like dawn dish soap rubbed on the impeller to make re-install super easy. You basically turn the impeller as you are pushing it back into the housing and with the soap lube, it goes much easier. It also helps impeller to stay in good condition since it will run dry a few seconds before the water gets too it when you re-start. #2 sounds like your steering cable is bad, that happens. You probably also have a grease zerk for your rudder box, its typically at the very back of the boat where the rudder box comes thru the bottom of the boat. That may help some....but likely your cable is the main culprit. Youtube has videos on how to replace, its not too hard... just be sure to use your existing steering cable to pull the new cable thru the hard to reach areas or you could spend a lot of time trying to fish the new cable thru the right places. Also check your rudder visually under the boat and make sure there is no obvious damage that is making the steering real hard....at that age it may be worth putting new packing in the rudder box at some point. Any maintenance you do is gonna make your overall experience better as well as keep the boat in top shape. Good luck and congrats on the boat. Good looking boat and the best family time ever

Sweet! Thanks for the help. I was a little surprised one can of clear coat got me through both vents. I’ve got a whole nother can since I got the 2 pack. Ventilation is key with that stuff

Issue has been resolved

Buying a Malibu over a 257??? Come on, let’s not make any bad decisions here.

If you are going to list it, you need the rub rail close to the water sitting still. Here is my 08 Avy. Little exaggerated, the run tail is usually just at the water level. Then here is my buddy at 6’7” surfing with his 8yo daughter. I would call up wakemakers and have them build you custom sacs that fill the locker and go up under the seats also. Have each bag it’s own reversible pump to fill and empty. It takes about 8min to fill/empty my custom sac. If you want to list it, you can. If you want to use the suck gate you can. Best of both worlds and just buying bags once. I started out with the 1100’s and then bought the custom. I bought bags twice. lol.

I'm pretty sure It's the 90 amp fuse on the starter. I put the tester on the cable side and got 12v. Put the tester on the other side with the nut and got zero's. The stereo not working was throwing me off but that ended up being a 10amp fuse on the back of the deck. Picking up a fuse from the dealer tomorrow and we'll see what happens.

Couple pics surfing the wave yesterday evening....more pics and details to come as soon as I have time to put it all together. Also gonna get pics/video of only the wave next time to show the shape/form. If you are on the fence about getting these surf tabs from InfinityWave @Shaka, its a no brainer at the price they are selling them for. Results could not be better in my opinion and I have high expectations when it comes to anything on my boat! Honestly, I was nervous about this initially since I knew the factory QS tabs where not too great on the 2015/2016 SV models. The shape of these tabs along with the fins under them to "direct" the water coming off bottom of the boat toward the wave to give you maximm push....works perfect and it seems that the lack of fins properly directing the water flow toward the surf wave was the flaw in the factory tabs. A deep-V hull is directing the water out, not at the wave and my best guess is that was why the factory tabs did not deliver results that owners were expecting and why many of the SV owners with the factory tabs list boat instead of using the tabs. These InfinityWave surf tabs certainly addressed tho issues.

So i bought the avalanche.. Lots of research now for getting it set up a bit better :-)

Water resistant connectors for the speakers and the hinge point at the tower. Rough placement of the speakers before I modified the brackets for the speakers to face aft over point to the side some.

@InfinitySurf is correct on that one. For years Centurion did things differently (essentially we sold boats at MSRP) and we had A LOT of problems. People thought that we were hosing them and it took a long time to explain why we weren't giving them a $30k discount and the other dealer was. As far as integrity goes, a dealer should acknowledge that MSRP is an over-inflated number and if they don't you shouldn't trust them, hence my statements here on this forum. For lending, it would put any boat company that actually sells boats at full MSRP at a true disadvantage as most banks are only willing to finance 90% of MSRP max not including tax, freight, prep, registration, etc. That means people would effectively need to put 30% down to even qualify and upwards of 40% to get the best rate. We aren't trying to pull a fast one on the banks by any means, but if I have a choice between having a program that favors the bank's equity position vs. getting our customers the best possible rate I will go with the best rates for our customers.

Although I didn’t build it, I get to keep my boat in it and can work on it during the winter in Vegas.