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Showing most liked content on 05/10/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    If you’re trailer has surge brakes, then it does not have electric or electric over hydraulic brakes. Trailers with surge brakes do not have brakes when backing down a ramp, they only have brakes when decelerating and the tounge compresses. You have a reverse override that prevents the brakes from actuating when compressing the tounge by backing up. You would have a 4 or 5 wire flat connector. If you have electric brakes you would not have any brake fluid as the brakes would be fully controlled by the electric actuators. You would have a 7 pin round connector. If you have electric over hydraulic you will have a hydraulic pump at the front of your trailer most likely in a battery box. You would have a 7 pin round connector.
  2. 1 point
    You'll have to reach up there and feel around for studs with nuts on them or it's like my 05 Elite and has black plastic barbed studs that you'll need a door panel removal tool to pull the cushion off with.
  3. 1 point
    Yea, betting you are right. I am gonna have the brakes on truck checked out and corrected. Only thing that makes sense since trailer has surge brakes only. Its likely pads since I have like 63k miles on truck. I am really easy on brakes, especially when towing, so doubt rotors but will have those checked too. Anyone done an Electric over Hydraulic conversion on a Boatmate? I did some looking last night and it seemed that Hydrastar made some quality kits. I found this kit for about $796 (MHBA-10-CON)....its 1000psi. They have up to 1600 psi kits but in my reading it seemed that surge brake lines are not always rated really high tho I am gonna verify that with Boatmate and see what they recommend. Sounds like its something worth doing, especially since I tow with 1500. For anyone that has done a conversion, is this something I can DIY or something that is probably better to take to a dealer? Link below to the kit I found. https://www.hydrastarusa.com/products/surge-brake-conversion/
  4. 1 point
    Scrounged some poster board. Climbed the ladder. Made a template. Measured and labeled it. Recreated in CAD and added some swoopy-ness. My plate will use the existing holes (one with nut and other visible below bimini frame on tower - photo above) plus another that I'll drill and tap in the tower once the shape and location is final. 3 points make a plane, not 2. Programming and plastic test parts coming up. Then final part in black anodized aluminum.
  5. 1 point
    I was told it's actually a micro-organism that causes this issue. Internet research backed that up. As to who's right.....who knows.
  6. 1 point
    Our boat originally came with a Garelick 75909-30, 9" seat base. After reading this THREAD and determining that the pneumatic version was more than twice as expensive we went with the Garelick 75535 with a 12"-17"adjustable height. Loosen swivel adjustment on the seat, remove original seat, remove teflon spacer from original base, add to new base and add seat to adjustable pedestal. Should take no more than 30 minutes. DIY level is very easy. Should have done it years ago. Funny thing is I used to sit with the heal of my feet where the bolster fit when up so changing the way I have sat in the boat for the last 10 years took a little getting used to. MUCH more comfortable and worth the trade off.
  7. 1 point
    Not ruling out a new boat but want to take the time to get the bimini mounted and everything dialed in for the summer whether we keep it or not. Our tower already had tapped holes for mounting a bimini bracket so I've decide to fabricate some custom mounting plates instead of using the Sewlong system. I temporarily used the Sewlong plates upside down to get the top aligned and looking pretty good. We also already had strut connections on the forward tubes so using those to support the front of the bimini frame. Sewlong provided extra long tubes with the intent of me cutting them down to fit. Two cuts and I have them where they fit really good and will be great when the wind picks up. Overall look from rear: Side view (bracket is upside down for mock-up only) Front view Pylon cutout: Below. Upside down bracket for test fitting. Glad I was able to make it work temporarily because that will save a bunch of time coming up with a custom plate. Also considering some other minor upgrades so check back in a week or two. Overall, very happy with the Sewlong product.
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