Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 03/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    No August or September Pic and Video thread...? Shame on you guys! I just whipped together an edit from my ride last week and wanted to share it with y'all! I know I've been away from here for quite some time, but I still love the Crew! Hope everyone had a great summer!
  2. 6 points
    Calling all Fi23 owners! With it being such a new boat, how about we get a discussion going to share all mods, tips & tricks related to the Fi23. Here’s some of our fun mods so far to get things started. Cheers!
  3. 6 points
    Post up pictures of your finished boat garage!I built my 24ft boat a new detached garage when I built my new home recently. I fully insulated and installed a wall unit so I could heat/cool the space. Its done a great job, only thing I did not realize when I bought it was that the lowest heat setting is 61 degrees and there are times when it would be nice to set it too 50 degrees. But its been very efficient since I was careful to insulate well and use a LOT of spray foam and I cannot complain. Moved in Sept 2018....and FINALLY just got the garage set up like I had been planning, just need to properly organize all my tools and boat stuff now. When I designed the garage, I wanted to be able to maximize the space since the boat is roughly 27ft long on the trailer with the tongue folded and swim platform on (I use it to get into boat) and about 9.5ft wide from fender to fender on width. The garage is 32ft long X 16ft wide with 12x12 garage door (ceiling of garage is 13' tall). Since it has 2x6 walls, inside comes to basically 31ft long X 15ft wide.I wanted to be able to bring the boat home from a day on the lake, and from inside the boat, remove everything if I wanted to without having to climb in/out of the boat. Same for loading up, so I can choose what surf boards, kids toys, etc.....that we want on the lake that day without getting out. I usually remove the seats to make sure the boat dries out and I never get any mildew or wet smell....so I built 3 wood racks on the side for the seat, and 2) 4x8 metal racks that hang down from the ceiling 42". This allows me to reach all the main things for the boat by either standing on the gunnels (I installed decking on gunnels for grip), or standing on the rear walk-thru transom. Then I also added as many metal shelving units at rear that I could (have 3 installed so far) those are for tools, boat supplies, oil change equip and all the other fun stuff....and am putting a "Gladiator" wall system up to hang things like rakes, shovels and other misc. On left wall, I still have 8 of those to install which will finish filling up that wall.I got this all done while boat was at the shop over the last 2 weeks...brought her home last night and backed her in for the first time and am pretty happy with how things turned out, everything fits perfectly, tho just barely in some areas. I planned to epoxy the garage floor in the Spring and think that I will put down something (maybe a colored line in the paint), so when I back in, I know to keep my tire on the line since I only have roughly 6" on each side of wiggle room to keep boat where I want it so I still have access to walk down either side of the boat since there will still be some things on the floor. I need to install some kind of "tire stop" as well so I can keep the depth correct.
  4. 6 points
    Last week at the lake, so much fun and the wetsounds cooler bumps for hours on a single charge.
  5. 5 points
    We put together a series of videos on how to best optimize the surf wave on your Centurion boat. The videos are broken down into Wakesurfing 101, 201 and 301. Here are some details on each video: Setting Up Your Wakesurf Wave 101 – This video is for when you are first getting started and goes through the basics of how to create a great surf wave that anyone will be able to jump on and enjoy. Setting Up Your Wakesurf Wave 201 – Once you have the basics down this video will help you take it to the next level. In the 201 video we show you how you can use all of the features on your Centurion boat to customize the surf wave based on the rider size, rider skill level, board they are riding on and more. If you are ready to take your wave from great to amazing this video will help you do that. Setting Up Your Wakesurf Wave 301 – In this video we go the extra step to show you how the professional riders and drivers set their boats up. This gets to a level of customization and intensity that is more than a lot of people want to get into but if you want to see how we set things up for pro riders, check this one out! We hope these videos will be helpful and that you can use them to get the most out of your boat. Happy Surfing!
  6. 5 points
    What’s up everyone, so it’s been quite a while since I first got my boat and started this old thread but I thought I would just give a little update. Ended up getting the Aviator tower and went a little crazy with the stereo among many many other projects on it haha. I will say that I am very appreciative of this site as there has been a ton of content that I researched and read through that really helped me out along the way!
  7. 5 points
    Went in to take my SV233 to Overby's for service and ended up coming back with this 2015 FS 44! Think we got the wave dialed in . Goofy side has same lip just hard to see with the sun hitting it. Having surfed a 2014 SV233, 2016 SV244, 2013 G23, 2016 RI237, Ri257, Supreme S21, 2001 Elite and Eclipse V-drive, Axis T22 / 23, I have to say the SV244 and the FS44 are by far my favorite waves. The Ri257 I surfed is a close second only because we did not get a lot of time to dial in the wave and did not have any extra ballast on the boat. Total two people in boat and 400 lbs of lead. The 2nd person was sitting next to the captain seat on the storage compartment. Think I am going to add 100-200 lbs of lead there or have someone always sit there as with the weight there it really helped the wave. Regular / Port side Speed 11.2 Port RamFill 100% Bow 100% Starboard was 35% Trim 25 CATS 10 Notes: Insane push all the way back. Playing with the CATS seemed to push the lip out a little bit. I am sure with more people in the boat I'll run less counter weight or when i get another 400 lbs of lead. Goofy / Starboard Speed 11.0 ( I skim buddy surfs) Starboard RamFill 100% Bow 100% Port RamFill 30% Trim 35 Cats -20 Notes: The length and height is insane, on my 53 P5 Matrix I was able to pump back in with little effort from white wash / curl. I would rate my 2014 SV233 (had RamFill and CATS with 750s in each locker) goofy wave a 8/10 with this one almost being a 10. I am sure I can dial it in a little more with some lead and playing around with the Trim / CATS. It is hard to see in the picture due to the sun / angle of this photo but the lip and curl is almost identical to the regular side. SO Impressed with the FS44 wave.
  8. 5 points
  9. 5 points
  10. 4 points
    Brought the Fi home today. We did purchase it from Pat and his crew at Northwest Boat Sports in Oregon City. Very attentive hard working team. They are all ready to step up to help their customers. Ian took us for a demo to show how to set it up for wakesurfing awesomeness. Brian was great helping with the details. It has been a pleasure to do business with them. Looks like we might have light wind tomorrow so hopefully will get on the water. Picked up a new Soulcraft with the boat so ready to step up our game. All the best, Hein & Kim
  11. 4 points
    We are bringing our Fi25 home on Tuesday. I'll be happy to answer questions as we get to know it. All the best, Hein
  12. 4 points
    Been wanting to build some wall racks for my surf boards for about a year, and now that I have a dedicated boat garage I finally got around to making them. Designed it to hold 5 boards. I put together the surf board supports 2 separate nights (top 3 the first night and bottom 2 the second night). It evolved a bit the 2nd night and I am going to revise the top ones to match the bottom sets since it looks a lot cleaner and the racks did not need to be so long. First few I did at 30" long, mostly cause I bough 60" pieces of 1" PVC and just cut them in half, I did the others @ 24" and also did end differently and they turned out a lot better. Pretty simple design, used 2x4 as the base and drilled 3/4" holes into it and used a 45 degree PVC angle fitting on the 1" PVC pipe and then glued/screwed them into 2x4 to hold them in place securely. PVC is then covered in foam pipe insulation and I also put some strips of adhesive foam insulation over the face of the 2x4's to protect the boards since they rest against it due to how I did the angle. I have 13ft ceiling in the boat garage, and placed the wall rack high enough so after I back the boat into garage after surfing, I can just put the boards back into the racks from inside of the boat without having to climb in/out with them. Anyway, figured I would share the pics, I know I like looking at pics when others post DIY stuff, I have gotten a lot of ideas from seeing stuff like that. Just broke out the wet suits, supposed to be in the 20's next week, usually we ride till Thanksgiving just been raining a lot lately in this area making it kindof dreary.
  13. 4 points
    My last two fill ups were 5.18 and 5.33 GPH on our fi23 with 409 and 3145 prop. The 5.18 was mostly surfing, 11 hours on the clock and 57 gallons. The second had 2-3 hours of cruising 4-5k rpm the rest surfing and slow speed zup (for my 4 year old) 9 hours on the clock and 48 gallons of fuel. Hours aren't exact but they are close. Im at 5k ft elevation ballast is 75-100% full when surfing + 500 lbs of steel
  14. 4 points
    Shop just sent me pics last night since they finished install yesterday....I pick her up on way home from the beach tomorrow! Should have the Aqua Marine decking in about 2 weeks, once I have it all put together 100%, will post final pictures
  15. 4 points
    Got her hew home ready too!!!
  16. 3 points
    We brought home our 2019 Fi25 last week and had our first session the day after. I consider myself lucky to score a session on a new toy the day after I get it. It doesn't always work out that way. One result of that quickness to rally kept me from having the opportunity to mount the rear view mirror which came with the boat. That proved to be a challenge as we tried adjust the surf settings without really being able to see the wave change. I am not a fan of mirrors clamped on the windshield anyway and wanted to try a rear view camera instead. That is the upgrade that this first post is about. We purchased a rear view camera and display on Amazon a few days before picking up the boat from NWBS in Oregon City. https://amzn.to/2DEgZTg I spent some time figuring out how and where to mount the display above the OEM dash in good view of the driver without blocking the view in front of the boat. Scratched my head a bit, took some patterns, did some CAD work and machined some parts shown below next to the display for the camera. Figured out where to place the camera on the back of the boat. Wire was run along the right side under the seats. Then continued to fit the CNC'd mounts to the dash. Happy these were a perfect fit right off the bat. This step usually requires some iteration of CAD tweaks and CNCing of more parts until the fit is right. A bit of skill and luck this time around. Used some 3M VHB to attach the mounts to the back of the display. This camera is designed with some straps that normally wrap around a rear view mirror. I trimmed those off and removed the pads that rest against the mirror surface. That is were my brackets attach to the back with the VHB. Then I mounted the camera on the dash. I will add some VHB between the mounts and dash to hold it in place. This was just a test fit to verify the position. Here is the view from the driver seat. Back of barn and CNC machine are shown in the image. We will have to see if this is angled right when on the water but think it looks pretty good. Note that the display is actually upside down. The camera is designed to be mounted above a license plate on the underside of the cover that normally is above them. Having the display upside down actually improved the wire routing which I still need to clean up a bit. So this all worked out for the better. This camera also has a built in front view cam which can 'see' through' the windshield but we won't be using that feature. It can record and do a host of other things which may be fun to try. We can actually record our sessions on a thumb drive so that might be cool. It's 1080P so resolution will be pretty good. Will post some videos when we get a chance to test it out. All the best, Hein
  17. 3 points
    It Shipped this morning! Should be here Saturday. Here are a few pics that the salesman send today.
  18. 3 points
    A woofer change will not address this, as the current enclosure is the biggest factor in how the woofer sounds. You would need to change the enclosure volume. If the woofer is whats making all the unwanted noise, then you need to first determine if any external factor was the root case, before installing a new woofer.
  19. 3 points
    2020 Ri257 (w/LSX). Canadian Blue Sparkle and White. Interior is standard white, hex black, hex deep bronze. I'm not swooned by the bombshell racks, so I have a set of PTM Edge wide-mouth clamp racks I'm trying to figure out how to get the right brackets to get mounted. Sorry for the kids tubing pic, its' one of the few I have with the interior. Our adults crew is 95% wakesurf.. and we hope to get the kids into it too. (my kids are only 6 and 8 y/o)
  20. 3 points
    Thanks guys! Glad I could help Josh! Yeah, that’s what I seen/read Mob. I don’t do FB though. When it first started I told my wife “that’s the devil and I will never have an account”. Haha! at this point I’m kinda committed to that take! Haha! We can’t wait to get that ZS out on the water and get back to surfing!
  21. 3 points
    Quick followup.. I went with the Ri257 (with the LSX) -- in all honesty because the Ri is more of a known quantity for me. I've spent 30+ hours on two different Ri257s, and I love the boat. It also became obvious from BoardCo answers that having the same hull means the boats are so similar it comes down to preferences. I was able to finally see an Fi23 in person, and overall I like the calmer RI styling and slightly higher freeboard for big Lake Tahoe, so that's the way I went. We took delivery two days ago.. and we couldn't be happier. Picture below. @BoardCo - Thanks so much for all your help answering questions on here, and posting awesome youtube videos of Centurions on the water! They really made a large purchase decision much easier. Your answer above helped me shed the FOMO of not having the Fi ski-pylon. @Duneit - We bought from https://www.mellomarine.com/ in Folsom, CA. Sally and Brandy have been fantastic to work with. Sally (the owner) negotiated the COVID-modified Tahoe boat inspection restrictions for us to get it in the water asap, and has been great.
  22. 3 points
    New gas new filter drained can could not get can all the way off big black hose in the way of dropping down far enough so I just sucked out the gas in can and put back together fired right up and ran with no codes so thank you for your help
  23. 3 points
    Sad this forum is not as busy as it used to be since so many jumped to the Facebook groups .. the FB groups are not nearly as easy to search, and the threads do not get organized well ...
  24. 3 points
    Finally did mine but went with the Angled Starboard and Port side specific LED's.
  25. 3 points
    I just had to replace my steering cable on my 05 SV230 and figured I’d add a few things that might be helpful. First, as I understand it, Teleflex no longer exists and was replaced by SeaStar so the new part number is SSCX15420. I ordered from Fredwarner.net and it cost $150 w/free shipping. I followed a lot of the guidance from above, but just to add a little more, I had to remove both water hoses from the back of the water pump to make accessing everything easier. Just unscrew the hose clamps and they pull off. I didn’t need to remove the water pump or sideswipe and was able to reach the cotter pin on the pitman arm fairly easy, and I’m on the husky side. The hardest part was getting the threaded nut on the steering cable unscrewed from the shaft housing that’s held in place by the clamp with the 4 bolts. I used an adjustable wrench but I THINK it’s about a 1 ¼” nut if you have a wrench that big. You could always take the new cable to a hardware store and find the right size wrench since the nuts are the same size. The shaft housing would turn with the nut when I would try to loosen the nut, but not as much as the nut, so it eventually came off but was a tedious process. I sprayed PB Blaster on the threads but I’m not sure if that even made a difference, perhaps some vice grips would help if you could fit them in there. Once I got that unscrewed, I pulled the cable/shaft out of the housing and then tied a rope to the end of the shaft where the retaining bolt would normally be. Before I could pull the cable out from the helm, I had to remove the paneling underneath the dash on the floorboard to access the hole where the cable comes out. The cable/nut got hung up on the gas tank, so I removed the floor panel to get access to the cable. This was well worth the few extra minutes, plus it made it easier to pull the new cable back through. I also agree that it’s much better to buy a new cotter pin; I tried the old one to no avail, but a new one went in on the first try. It’s definitely helpful to have a second person to lend a hand but is possible to do yourself. All together from start to finish, it took me about 3hrs which includes re-installing the under dash paneling and floor panel along with centering the steering wheel and rudder.
  26. 3 points
    Hi again, all. Thought I'd post a quick update. We took the boat out about a week ago for a test run. Prior to heading out, I poured in two bottles of HEET to help absorb any water or bad gas. At the lake, we had the same problems with acceleration. It idles fine, goes okay at low speed, but dies out when going for higher speeds. We ended up getting it started and were able to drive slowly back and load it on the trailer. A couple nights later, I took off the old water separating fuel filter and poured the contents into a glass jar to see if there was water choking out the fuel system. There was no sign of water, sediment, particles, or anything. So as far as I can tell, there's no water in the fuel. (Glad to know that the filter is working well, tho.) When I went to O'reilly Auto this morning to pick up another Sierra Water Separating Fuel Filter (they can order them and have them in about a day for about $2 more than Amazon), I talked to one of the guys there. His brother used to have a Ski Nautique and Moomba, so he knows the engines and layout a bit. He said that since there's no problem with the actual fuel (from what I could see), the problem has to be in fuel delivery - most likely the fuel pump. He said that if the fuel pump diaphragm is cracked, it could have enough pressure to delivery the fuel at lower speeds. It wouldn't sputter or anything, but appear to be fine at lower speeds. But upon acceleration, when the diaphragm is working harder to deliver fuel to the engine, it won't be able to keep up, and the engine would end up stalling out. He said on trucks with the Chevy 350 small block engine, if there's a problem with the fuel pump (cracked diaphragm or whatever), the excess fuel gets squirted out of the pump as you drive, and it ends up on the ground or somewhere else on the pump housing where it can evaporate. But you can't do that on a lake, so the gas ends up being sent to the crankcase and mixes with the oil. So he said to pull the dipstick, wipe it on a clean paper towel, dip again, wipe again, and then smell. If it smells of gas, then it's probably a bad fuel pump. So I came home, followed the steps and..... It smells a heck of a lot like there's gas mixed in with my oil! I had just changed the oil in our 4Runner (full synthetic, but should have a similar smell to regular used oil), and I smelled both of them separately. The oil from the boat DEFINITELY smells of gas. So the next step is going to be to put on a new fuel pump, new water separating fuel filter, change the oil... and then at some point, I'll get the steering cable (got it from Ron today) and the bilge pump done, too. Thanks for helping out, @Timr71 and @InfinitySurf. I'll keep everyone in the loop as I move forward. I feel like I'm finally on the right path!
  27. 3 points
    I did it! Got a really good deal on the new one and the trade-in. Can't wait to get it in the water. Thanks for the responses!
  28. 3 points
    Newbie to the page! 1994 Ski Centurion LaPoint Tru Trac. PCM 351 Pro-Tec. The Cadillac of ski boats 26 years ago.
  29. 3 points
    Just picked this up, works quite well. I can grab my drink or put it down without taking my eyes off the lake ahead. Heavy enough it doesn’t move around even over most waves. Called the beverage bandit.
  30. 3 points
    A few things here: The Fi25 and Ri257 ride almost identically in rough water - you will be VERY happy with either one. The Ri257 has a tow point above the swim platform that is ideal for tubes. You can ski from this point but from my experience, the tower is a better spot. As far as this goes, it is one of the common misconceptions I run into when talking to people about skiing. People consider it near blasphemy to talk about water skiing from the tower, but for 90% of people who ski it is actually a better tow point than a pylon. It allows recreational skiers to get up easier and reduces overall drag once they are up. The benefit of having a lower tow point really only matters if you are pulling HARD through the wake and honestly if you are pulling hard enough to justify going to a pylon you aren't going to want to ski behind a Fi25 / Ri257 anyway. To give you some background I am a tournament skier, I own a Carbon Pro boat (along with a Ri257) and spend time in a buoy course regularly. When I ski behind a Fi25 or Ri257 I am barely impacted by skiing from the tower. This point causes me some frustration because for most people skiing from the tower is not just ok, but it is actually BETTER than skiing from a pylon, but when I suggest it I get weird looks like I don't know what I'm doing haha. Jack (one of our guys here) gets the same reactions and he can run into 34 off in a course (which if you aren't familiar is REALLY good). The Ri257 ski wake isn't quite as good as the Fi25, but they are close. Out of the box the Ri257 puts out a slightly better surf wave while the Fi25 has a slightly better ski wake. They have the same running surface and the only reason for the difference is the Ri257 is slightly heavier. That said, most people wouldn't be able to tell a difference between them as far as ski wake goes. As far as stereo control goes, you can have an automatic volume adjustment installed but you can save a lot of cost and actually get better functionality by installing an app on your phone called Volumatic. It is AWESOME and a lot better than the volume controls that are set to RPM in my opinion, plus it only sets you back about $10. The Supra SE550 has some great features and is a really nice boat. There are some nice features on Supra but for me there are at least 2 BIG things you will miss out on vs. a Centurion. The most important factor that can't be overcome with modifications is the rough water ride. If you are using the boat on Tahoe the water can get ugly fast and having a boat that won't beat you up or scare you going through 5-foot waves is a must in my book. The next one is the surf wave on the Centurion is a lot better out of the box. You can get the Supra to throw out a great wave, but if you do much research you will find that pretty much everyone is running 1,000 lbs. of lead to get it to surf on the level of a stock Fi25/Ri257. If you cruise around a lot that is a problem since you can't get rid of it. The other downside that is just speculation from me is that the ski wake on the Supra wouldn't be as good. Supra boats have a very stiff wakeboard wake and from my experience, that translates to a stiff ski wake. I haven't skied behind one, but I have heard the ski wake is actually worse than a Centurion just because of the wake shape. The best thing to do if you are looking at one is taking them both for a drive, the difference will become clear very quickly. Lastly, the H6 engine will work fine for you but you probably wouldn't be disappointed with the 550 (for 2020 it will be the new LSX engine). If you cruise around a bit the added power and reduced RPM on at cruising speed is really nice. As far as reliability goes, its a bit early to tell on the LSX but thus far they have had no problems at all and should be more reliable than the XR7 (550 Supercharger) was. The main benefit is similar power but the engine is naturally aspirated so longevity and reliability should be better. It's a new engine for the boat world but it has been bulletproof in cars for a while so we anticipate really good things. If there is anything we can do to help you out on the boat decision process at all let me know. Thanks!
  31. 3 points
    Took delivery of our ZS232 a couple weeks ago.
  32. 3 points
    Wakedirt, in my experience, shapers don’t work well on a 226....the wave is really good listed....that being said, I went down the path of a GSA system. It’s pricy, but it’s worth the money......it does require at least 4K in ballast to throw a big wave.
  33. 3 points
    Although I didn’t build it, I get to keep my boat in it and can work on it during the winter in Vegas.
  34. 3 points
    Originally we added on to the garage to be able to keep the boat at home, only down fall was had to put tower down to put it in the garage but, could stand it back up once in. This last year we finished up the new boat garage with a board walk. This is where she will live unless a hurricane is coming.
  35. 3 points
    That’s awesome, glad I could help. Love to see these forums helping fellow boaters.
  36. 3 points
    Moved into my new home about a month ago and built a detached garage for my baby so she now has her own home. Most exciting part....I no longer have to fold the tower! Stays much cleaner now too being fully enclosed since before the front and back has ghetto tarps to keep out the rain, but did not keep out dust, etc. 32ft long X 16ft wide detached (also made entire roof truss system into a 12ft wide X 32ft long storage area). 14ft high ceilings with 12x12 garage door and at last minute, I decided to insulate, finish with drywall/paint....and installed a wall unit that has Heat & A/C. Got this picture yesterday when I came back from surfing. Bought a new Ram 1500 about 2 weeks ago too with 3.92 gears, 5.7 Hemi and the tow package, rated for 11,340lbs towing and 1840 payload (total 17,000 GVWR....so realistically 9k is the most you can "legally tow". Handles my SV244 with easy and is much better feeling than the Chevy I have been using for the last 2 years. Even tho the tow ratings are similar on both trucks, the Ram is more powerful and just handles better and brakes are WAY better when backing down a steeper ramp.
  37. 3 points
    Ride it up. Thank you Belton Brosephers
  38. 3 points
    So the other night we got home late from the lake after being out pretty much all day, the sun was already down and I was beat. I pull up to the house, disconnected the boat from my truck and go to pull away, I hear a clunk and feel a small jerk. I immediately stop. I walk to the back to see this still hanging from my hitch......... Yup, I forgot to disconnect the boat trailer emergency brake cable! Now the way my mind works is a two part process, first, it was a string of curse words that if heard out load would make a sailor blush. Second, I questioned how much money my self inflicting wound just cost me. Luckily through the power of the internet it actually was a very cheap learning experience. You can buy just the cable for around $13 but the catch is its almost $10 for shipping so I just hit up my local boat shop and bought a kit for under $30 which comes with a new cable, clip, and attachment plate. Now, I can only assume most of us are running some type of UFP hitch on our trailers. If you're not sure, they will be labeled just like this. UFP is the make and my particular hitch is model A-84. Google that and all your replacement parts will come up. As you can see this particular cable kit I bought covers multiple models The hitch is actually a pretty simple system. Trailer braking is controlled by the actuator mounted on the tongue of the trailer. When the tow vehicle brakes are applied, the “surge” or “push” of the trailer toward the tow vehicle automatically applies and synchronizes the trailer brakes with the tow vehicle brakes. The coupler slides into the actuator applying force to a piston inside of a master cylinder, which applies the trailer brake.At constant speed, the brake actuator master cylinder piston is in the free (extended) position; and the trailer brakes are not applied. The shock absorber controls random application of the trailer brakes when towing on rough roads. When the tow vehicle slows down, the trailer moves toward the tow vehicle. The actuator slides over the coupler, applying force to the master cylinder piston in direct proportion to how fast the tow vehicle is slowing and how much the trailer weighs. The piston moves into the master cylinder, building pressure to apply the trailer brakes. The shock absorber makes sure the brakes are applied and released smoothly. All actuators must have a way to apply the trailer brakes should the trailer become completely detached from the towing vehicle. The breakaway cable is the third line of defense after trailer separation. Before the breakaway cable is pulled, the coupler must become detached from the hitch ball and then the safety chains must fail. At this time the breakaway cable is pulled which will apply a braking force to the trailer. Note: The breakaway system is not intended to lock up the trailer brakes after tow vehicle separation but rather to apply just enough braking force to keep the trailer from free-wheeling down the road. The breakaway system must be reset manually after it has been activated. So with all that being said its time to get dirty! Before you begin you will need a pair of snap ring (circlips) pliers, without them you will not be able to even start this job. Here is what you're up against..... First order of business is to remove the two snap rings (circlips) from both pins. Once the snap rings are removed you need to pull both roll pins out. Once the pins are pulled you can pull on the hitch receiver mount to separate the inner member from the neck, exposing the internal workings such as the shock absorber, master cylinder and such. Now this little guy is the best thing invented since sliced bread, this is the electronic reversing solenoid, Its sole purpose is to allow you to back up without the brakes locking up. If you've ever tried to back your trailer up without having the plug in your rig then you know what I'm talking about. If you don't have one of these little buggers then you will have to use a lock out key or plug. The purpose of a lock out key is to fit behind the front sliding roll pin to "lock it out" from sliding back and engaging your brakes while reversing. it is also suggested to use even with the reversing solenoid when backing over soft ground or up an incline without the brakes fully engaging. The plug is just that, a plug that goes in your master cylinder reservoir and accomplishes the same results. Once you separate the inner member from the neck you can separate the pushrod assembly from both the master cylinder and the safety release bracket and pull the cable attachment bracket off and replace it with the new one. Yours may or may not be broken or distorted, mine was not but I elected to replace it anyway. After you replace the cable attachment bracket and connect the cable you can start to assemble everything. When inserting the push rod into the push bracket you have to depress press the safety release bracket to allow the push rod to slide in. The correct orientation of the clip is to face it so the cable pulls towards the boat first then loops back around to either stick out the front or side of the trailer hitch. About the only problem I ran into was once I separated the inner member from the neck these plastic spacers became dislodged and was a mother to get back in position when reassembling. They fit in a recessed area on the master cylinder at the rear pin area and are next to impossible to place while sliding the inner member past them. The correct orientation is smaller flange towards the master cylinder. Honestly its not that big or hard of a job. Maybe a touch intimidating because nobody wants to tear into their braking system of their trailer and mess it up, but it seriously took me all of 20 minutes to complete, and 15 of that was trying to line up those plastic spacers!
  39. 3 points
    I think there’s more to this story than we are getting. There’s always 2 sides to a story.
  40. 3 points
    You could probably do all the mods you want to your boat with the money you will spend on sales taxes buying a new boat. I say keep it and make it the best avalanche you can. Why? timeless look. no screens. No problems. additional pumps and setup can be done for not a lot of money. same for stereo. you can add seadek proven hull and layout cost to use ratio seems off. If you used it a lot, newer boat conveniences are nice, but for the number of times you use it, that's a lot of money. I love my 2005 Lightning C4 when I am 225 pounds and have plenty of push on my goofy wave. Spend the time to dial in your wave and you will be thoroughly impressed. You're boat puts out a better wave than mine!
  41. 3 points
    Shortly after this picture was taken, the steering cable snapped and brought the day to a swift end. Regardless, it was a great day on the water while it lasted.
  42. 3 points
  43. 3 points
    I been busy the past year building this new house at Lake Nacemiento and built it with wake board boats can pull in with doing a thing to fit in this garage. The Garage is 21 ft. x 32 ft with an 18 ft wide door x 12 ft. tall. The ceiling is 14 ft. tall and I installed a dumb waiter so you can pack your Ice chest from the second floor and send it down to your boat in the garage. The house is 2 1/2 stories and 2,691 square feet
  44. 3 points
    So I got the boat back yesterday. I rechecked my Deutsch connectors and found the lines from the actuators we’re not sitting firmly in the harness. Firmed those up and the system works fine! Got most of my lead out and put 280 pounds evenly distributed in the bow and 160 pounds in each back end of the rear lockers. Filled both QuickFill, both rear lockers, and both mid boat PNPs. PP at anywhere from 10.8 to 11.4. Ended up running the wake tab all the way down at 100 to keep the bow down. Air temperature in the mid 60s And water temp here in Vermont also low so I didn’t stay out very long. Got one ride in. Initial thoughts: No spray with FAE on either side. That was a relief to see as I was worried about the goofy side. Goofy wave looked spectacular. I am a regular surfer so didn’t spend any time over there but very easy to get compared to the listed or suck gate wave. Regular wave not the typical beefy hi wave I’m used to with either listed or suck gate set up. It was a bit windy out so there was chop and I only had approximately 320 pounds of crew with my two kids. Slowed the speed down a little bit and the wave got taller but squatty. Messed around with the tab a little bit and similar effect. Didn’t seem like too much weight for the engine so I have a couple more lead bags and I’m gonna put in the port rear locker corner. I may then empty starboard PNP a bit next. Based on Mrwick’s experience I may then change the tab angle to see if that helps. Also probably reach out to Ryan next week after the holiday. Any other experience is greatly appreciated. I’ll try and take some pics and video next time out.
  45. 3 points
    pics of our 84 tru trac from back in the day
  46. 3 points
    My boat turned out awesome with compound, polish n wax (some wet sanding was needed in couple areas). Took pic last night with boat and trailer waxed....and then a close up pic showing gelcoat around vent (should have gotten some others), but really happy considering it was my first time doing it to entire boat. Just need to finish interior polish to gelcoat sometime soon, it just needs a polish and wax to pop.
  47. 3 points
    I know what you mean about the “push”. My 13 year old was wakeboarding by age 7 and surfing at 10. My 10 year old is super athletic but politely says she would rather watch.....my 6 year old doesn’t give a crap about anything and just wants to dive off the tallest point of the boat! Girls.....they are as confusing as their mom! Lol
  48. 3 points
    It’s here! Hard to appreciate the flake with the indoor lighting, but truly stunning in person. We couldn’t be happier with the Centurion decision!!!!
  49. 3 points
  50. 3 points
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy..