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viking    491

^^ LOL ^^ Look at the bright side........could have been more $$ if you'd ordered the SD-4's :guitar:

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Wylie_Tunes    146

Stereo is only lost at a considerable distance beyond the platform, with the engine on, without a FAE, for one... For two, you have to be WAY off axis to loose one of the rev 10's sound. Which is the speaker we are speaking of. I do agree you can run either way and it's ultimately up to the listener/ boat owner. Some of us like stereo at the sand bar... NOW I would change my choice to mono if you wanted to sit a party cove with one Rev facing each way a lot.. One way isn't the right way until the listener is added to the equation:) so you get to decide Dark!! Lol

I am honestly glad that you disagree with what was posted, it allows for more info to be shared. Stereo is a relationship between the listener and the 2 chnls. Its a product of their distances apart and the listeners distance form them. Most experts would agree that the sweet spot for stereo image, is going to be somewhere between 75% to 125% of the speakers width. Beyond that and the stereo image has blended. So lets take Centurion with a gladiator tower. Would you agree that the distance between a pair of speaker is likely more than 4 feet but not more than 6ft? Based on that, beyond 7.5' and the stereo image is going away. Now, lets take a boat with a straight tube tower and 2 pair. With 4 pods at maybe 12' on center, the stereo image will almost never materialize.

 

With the speakers pointing straight back and the listener is off the back corner of the boat, both speakers will basically be on one side of the listener. At this point, stereo will not exist. So if the system is setup in stereo, you are missing a great deal of program material from that speaker thats furthest away from you. Rotating both speaker toward the listener would in theory, reestablish the stereo image, but because one speaker is closer to you then the other, you are now dealing with time alignment and phasing issues. If the speakers are toed out, then the listener will get a true stereo image. What you could likely get, depending on the program material, is a distinct left and right image.

 

I did not say that you would not hear that other speaker, but its contribution is greatly diminished due to distance away and how its pointed. This is where summed mono can make a huge impact on certain type of towers.

 

One thing we do agree on here, is that the owner can run it any way they want. Im just here to provide as much pertinent and accurate info as I can. Those fallowing along are free to take the info and apply as they choose. This allows them to make the most informed decision possible. I hope that my info above did as you asked, and brought the listener into the equation.

 

With the right stereo track like form The Who (Baba O'riley) or Queen (Bohemian Rhapsody) and your home surround stereo, you can toy around with the stereo image. Change the front chnls width and adjust your listening distance and see how the stereo image changes.

 

Not trying to right, not trying to get your dander up true-K, just posting for the benefit of the forum.

 

@ DsR,

 

The Syn-4 will allow for a summed mono setup if you care to try it out and compare it to stereo. Its nothing more than changing a couple of switch positions.

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truekaotik    458

Honestly, that is your opinion and not "most experts" when it comes to HLCDs... Mono is fine and will carry the same signal to each, if that's what he wants, good for him. I do some mono set ups as well.. For you to come back at my post and try to vindicate yourself with your opinion is fine as well but don't try and demeanor my expertise in this field by always using your famous "other installers" , "other experts" ect... Funny I've helped more people on this forum and have had no returns... Guess I may know a bit of nothing ;) also it seems you only run mono on your tower set ups so I can understand your pushing mono on a tower you havnt done...

Edited by truekaotik

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DarksideR    1,679

Alright fellas, let's see if you two will agree on this. ;) What gauge speaker wire to the Revs? Used a calculator online that said 8ga. Seems excessive?

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viking    491

12ga be da ticket!

 

Get some jacketed 4 conductor - it'll be easier to fish

Edited by viking

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Wylie_Tunes    146

Alright fellas, let's see if you two will agree on this. ;) What gauge speaker wire to the Revs? Used a calculator online that said 8ga. Seems excessive?

That calc likely was figuring DC, where as amp output is AC.

 

12ga 2-con for each pod.

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truekaotik    458

Yup, 12 gauge is what I run to all Rev10's/410's, 8's....

 

I agree with Vik here also that 4 conductor is a one pull deal and works great because each conductor is colored different. If choose dual 2 conductor mark each end... Or you will add more work..

Edited by truekaotik

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DarksideR    1,679

Thanks again fellas. Guess the 14ga I bought is going back! I planned on going up each side of the tower, so 2 conductor was the plan.

Thanks for the quick response.

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Wylie_Tunes    146

Unless the hole in the deck is poorly drilled, you should not have too much trouble getting 4 conductors down the port side. Could be tight with the LED wires if your tower is pre-wired with them. Cable lube helps. This would save the long run around the boat from the STBD side.

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DarksideR    1,679

Ok. More dumb dumb questions.

What size fuses?

The plan is to have a run of 0/1AWG cable with an inline fuse (wetsounds kit shows a 300a fuse here for a two amp kit) . Splitting on a 3 position distribution block to two 4AWG wires with (wetsounds kit.... 150a fuses). The amps themselves have three 25a blade fuses.

 

So... Are these ANL fuse ratings overkill? Or too much?

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Wylie_Tunes    146

No dumb questions at all.

 

For 2 Syn-4 amps, a 200A fuse will carry their load, yet not exceed what the 1/0 will carry.

 

Since the Syn amps have their own internal fusing, no additional fusing is needed, beyond your trunk line master fuse. The short length of branch 4ga to each amp, will still exceed the main trunk line fuse.

 

If the batteries are in the engine bay/bilge area, I like to use a waterproof ignition protected circuit breaker over an automotive style amp fuse holder.

 

keep it simple and take the fuse rating at face value. They will carry short spikes above their rated value, but will open when there is an actual short.

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DarksideR    1,679

Thanks Wylie. Batteries and amps are both up front under the observers seat area.

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viking    491

Thanks for the info. Wylie!

 

Finally got my 420 installed (pics to follow soon) and have a couple configurations questions.

Gear: SD2 running towers and SD6 running 6-xs650's and xs12 sub. 1/0 trunk line with 200amp circuit breaker, WS big block 2/4 distribution block with 4awg to the amps.

 

1.) what size ANL fuses for the distro block?

2.) What channels on the SD6 for the sub as I want full control at the EQ. Was thinking Channels 5-6 for sub with its own preamp and then channels 1-2 for the 4-cockpits and channels 3-4 for the 2-bow as these can be live with pass through on one preamp to 1-2. That way the gains work on the 420 for the boats only and sub has it's own control. It's confusing because the documentation on the SD6 isn't clear as to the bass boost settings look to be for channels 1-2 only? Maybe it works for any channels that is set to "mono"? Do I have that right and make any sense?

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Wylie_Tunes    146

AN 80A fuse will get the job done for each amp and be under the capacity of the short runs of 4gs

 

All 3 sections of the SD-6 are fill range and the amp has a full compliment of source input selections. If one is planning on using the included sub level knob, the sub must go on chnls 1/2. When using a pre-amp EQ or other means of volume control, the sub and full range speakers can be on any of the chnls.

 

In your setup, I would drive the sub with chnls 5/6 with those chnls getting a dedicated RCA pair from the EQ's sub output. Run the full-range speakers on 1-4 and only a single pair of RCAs needed into the chnl 1/2 inputs from the EQ's in-boat output. Now, one thing to consider with the this setup. T prevent the use of the Bass Boost and its adjustable Hz. 99 or 100 installs, im not going to want or need BB.

 

If you want to use chnls 51/2 for sub and 3-6 for in-boats, just use a Y to the 3/5 and 4/6 inputs.

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viking    491

Gotcha - Thanks Wylie.

So I was on the right track at least? I don't see a reason to us a Y adapter if I don't need to. Not opposed if it's a better option tho.

Main concern was making sure I could isolate the Sub at the amp for sub level control and not effect the other speakers. Plus get all the tuning capabilities I need.

I won't worry about the BB settings then as I can get what I need by running 5/6 Mono and setting the frequencies at the amp and Eq.

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DarksideR    1,679

Pulled one of my in boats today and turns out that they are XS-650's, not 65's... BONUS! Hope the 100w to each will be plenty.

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viking    491

NICE! Well if it's not enough we both know what you can do to fix that - LOL. I'm sure it'll sound fine (for at least 1 season)

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Wylie_Tunes    146

Pulled one of my in boats today and turns out that they are XS-650's, not 65's... BONUS! Hope the 100w to each will be plenty.

Honestly, the 650 sounds good on head-unit power!

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truekaotik    458

Pulled one of my in boats today and turns out that they are XS-650's, not 65's... BONUS! Hope the 100w to each will be plenty.

Your running them on good power @ 100 watts a speaker for sure.. ;)

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DarksideR    1,679

Ok stereo guys. Help a brother out. I can not get my Rev10's to not have a hiss. I've turned the gain all the way down and tried adjusting the frequency but can't get rid of the hiss. My inboats had it before, but adjusted the gain and it went away. What could be the problem? I moved the ground of the 420 from the ground block to the stereo battery, but the power lead is still tapped into the power for the stereo on the distribution block under the drivers helm. Just can't figure out why the hiss is in the Revs and not the inboats. Other than the amount of power going to them, everything is the same.

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