Enzo Trailer modifications

[mylesm260 0]

08 SV240

 

Recently sold an 02 elite-v

 

 

These trailers are LOW.

 

My driveway has a significant angle of incidence vs my street.

 

In order to get my elite-V into the driveway, I ended up adding Lifting blocks to the axles / leaf springs.

 

 

 

I don't have any plans to put my SV240 in my driveway, but I'm running into ground scraping issues all the time.

 

My "skid plate" is now bent, and in need of a BFH to straighten it out.

 

I've also got water in my master cylinder, so I'm going to need to replace my master, and bleed the $%^$% our of my brakes.

 

 

I've noticed the newer SV240 trailer has a torsion suspension, instead of leafs. Has anyone tried to raise these? There looks to be a spine interface between the torsion bars and the hub assembly. Am I correct in assuming that I can un-clamp this union, and "re-clock" the spines to increase the height? Kind of like how you would raise a 90's era Japanese pickup truck's front end?

 

Also, I generally hate surge brakes, has anyone converted one of these to electrics? I converted a boat trailer years ago with good results (it was a shark-skin brand, made for salt water)

 

On that note, has anyone ever converted to electric brakes with a distro hitch?

 

A 6,000 boat / trailer means legally we can only tow with a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck, as no other vehicle can take 600 lbs on the ball without a distro hitch (legally anyway).

 

Distro hitch / electric brakes would let us tow with a 1/2 ton truck or a decent SUV......

 

 

for the time being, we have a 1 ton, but I'm always thinking about different options in the future. It would be nice to be able to tow this setup with a grand Cheroke, or a Durango or something of that nature.

 

 

 

 

 

[WakeDoc 471]

I have the newer (2010) Boatmate trailer with the torsion suspension, I would guess you could clack it but, I would check with Boatmate first to see if they know of any issues.

[volzalum 280]

You can clock it, but make sure it keeps enough clearance between the 2 tires when loaded and flexing.

 

As for electric brakes, if it were me, I would change the master cylinder to an electric actuator and make the trailer electric over hydraulic. You wouldn't have to change the brakes on the axels, and then you wouldn't be submerging the electrics nearly as often.

[mylesm260 0]

apparently I can in fact use a distro hitch with the stock master, that's kind of neat, I didn't think it was possible.

 

(page 5)

http://www.easternmarine.com/media/downloads/6155/A-60_75___84_Actuator_Maintenance.pdf

 

 

I think I will just buy a new surge master then,

 

I just don't like how the master gets submerged when launching the boat. Brake fluid and water don't mix, yet by design, that thing goes under water all the time, I wish they had a better cap, mine looks like it makes a crappy seal (and now my cap is straight up missing)

 

Anybody know what master came on an 08 enzo trailer?

 

I think it's a UFP-A75

http://caltrailerworks.com/online/product.php?productid=3195

[volzalum 280]

My '07 Boatmate trailer for my Enzo has the UFP-A80.

[mylesm260 0]

volzalum, I take it you've changed your master then? (since you knew the model number off the top of your head)

 

How do you find the cap / seal on yours?

[volzalum 280]

I haven't replaced mine. But I did replace an axle, and had to bleed the brakes to get everything functional again. I had a missing cap early on, and got Boatmate to sell me one. If you get up under the actuator, it should have the model number on it. I was surprised it was the A80, because the tongue ball on mine was what was shown on the A65, not the A75 or A80 on the UFP site. There is a plug in the Actual master cylinder top with the level indicator, and then there is a ¼ turn plastic cap in the top of the actuator. The plastic cap is a dust cover. The plug is what keeps water intrusion out.

[Shaka 146]

Checked out this thread  a couple of days ago. My surge brakes stopped working late last summer but I didn't have a chance to do anything about it until now.

Turns out the master cylinder was leaky or something and couldn't build any pressure. The trailer shop guy then told me that converting to electric would actually cost slightly more than a new mater cylinder. I elected to do the upgrade to an all-electric system. I've been driving it around Salt Lake City today and it makes a huge difference. Being able to dial in the controller gain for various situations is going to be great.  All the electronic components are sealed so this should be very reliable.

I'm excited for my tow to Lake Powell next week.

[beau t 8]

the torsion arm should be about 18 deg with a angle finder according to boat mate. mine was at about 10, i had to jump mine 2 teeth to be able to back up my driveway, that put it at 20 (close to what boat mate said) before starting i leveled out the trailer measuring 4in from prop guard, after moving arms 5in.    hope this helps 

[volzalum 280]

I ordered my 2015 FS44 BoatMate trailer with the electric over hydraulic brakes. They work really well. It is nice to have brakes when backing down the long steep ramps out here on the west coast. 

[Nick213 583]

15 minutes ago, volzalum said:

I ordered my 2015 FS44 BoatMate trailer with the electric over hydraulic brakes. They work really well. It is nice to have brakes when backing down the long steep ramps out here on the west coast. 

My next boat/trailer will be ordered that way. 

 

I have dump trailers that are electric brakes and it's night and day difference. I hate surge brakes.