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Perfect I will take a look. I was looking at it again today and don't see a problem with it as well. Yes I did see the info about the pin. I just tacked it at the one end so should be good. Thanks for the help Dura.

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Troy. R    186

Phillewis ended up using 2 actuators for this reason, but offsetting to the port side shouldn't cause an issue.

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duramat    465

7.5, Also you may not want as much downstroke as what Kris and Grandpa and I have.

 

:thumbsup:

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phillewis    39

Phillewis ended up using 2 actuators for this reason, but offsetting to the port side shouldn't cause an issue.

Yea, I have two Lenco's on either side of the ballast intake. The guys at Lenco strongly discouraged me from using one on the port side... said that there is a ton of force being exerted on the plates and it would eventually bend the plate or fracture the transom. It works really well with both of them and seems super solid. I have also found that we never use it more than 1 or 2 notches down... it's either all the way up or even with the hull. Unless you really want to squash your wave down for skimming, but it also looses a ton of push... FYI Good luck!

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Yea, I have two Lenco's on either side of the ballast intake. The guys at Lenco strongly discouraged me from using one on the port side... said that there is a ton of force being exerted on the plates and it would eventually bend the plate or fracture the transom. It works really well with both of them and seems super solid. I have also found that we never use it more than 1 or 2 notches down... it's either all the way up or even with the hull. Unless you really want to squash your wave down for skimming, but it also looses a ton of push... FYI Good luck!

Sounds good I will take a look and see what I can do. Phillewis it looks like you are not to far away from me. We need to meet up as I am just on the west side of Loveland. Also using two actuators can you wire them together in the back so the run on the same wire from the trim switch?

 

Dura what have you found with your setup being down to far? My plan was to have it go as high as it could till it touched the exhaust.

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Troy. R    186

100% agree with Phil. The plate is counter productive when lower than even with the hull. To install mine I first installed the actuator to the plate. Then installed the upper mount on the actuator and taped of the transom in the general location where the upper mount would be installed. Next, with the actuator fully retracted I pushed the plate as high up as possible until it hit the exhaust and leaned the actuator up against the transom and had a friend mark the upper mount location on the transom (on the tape).

This way you have maximum upward range of motion.

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Troy. R    186

Oh, and I don't see why you couldn't wire both actuator to one switch. Just make sure you use heavy enough gauge wire to carry the load. 12AWG stranded wire would probably do it, but I might run 10AWG just to be extra safe. The actuator install manual will at least give you a load rating that you could use to determine the proper wire size if not tell you the wire size to use for your application.

Edited by Troy. R

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phillewis    39

Sounds good I will take a look and see what I can do. Phillewis it looks like you are not to far away from me. We need to meet up as I am just on the west side of Loveland. Also using two actuators can you wire them together in the back so the run on the same wire from the trim switch?

 

Dura what have you found with your setup being down to far? My plan was to have it go as high as it could till it touched the exhaust.

We're at the Boulder Reservoir... anytime you want to come down I can show you my setup. I did just wire both actuators to the same side of the double LED switch... where do you guys launch?

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We usually head up to Horsetooth. I may take you up on that but have to order another actuator and it won't be here till Tuesday now.

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knotguilty    6

I finished up my plate install a few weeks back. Worlds of difference both loaded with ballast making waves and cruising down the lake. I'm not a goofy rider but I wanted an actuated plate and figured that the asymmetrical plate was the way to go if I was going to do it.

 

I have about 4" of travel up and 2" of travel down. I decided to go with a single actuator closer to the port side because of the ballast intakes. I don't want to go with the Lenco control module and am afraid that the actuators may go out of sync or god forbid one of the actuators failed and locked in place while the other still moved.

 

I used 3/16" 6061 T6 (Fully aged) aluminum. I had to use a 60 ton hydraulic brake to bend the plate after attempting on 2 manuals. I have no fear of the plate bending under load and I found it on e-bay for just over $50 with shipping. The guy who helped me bend the plate built his own aircraft so riveting the plate to the hinge was the only way to go and everything is flat other than the pan head screws that came with the actuator. I went with a 1581A911 hinge from McMaster-Carr.

 

For wiring I used the Teleflex switch with 4 standard single pole relays. 2 for up and 2 for down. The 4 relays are not as clean as only having 2 double pole relays but I only paid $15 for 5 with harnesses that lock together on Amazon. In the end everything looks clean and is tucked nicely behind my switch panel.

 

Everything together I paid $340 and am very pleased. My port wave is taller now and with a couple of taps I can make a longer wave for me and the steeper shorter wave for the wife without stopping to fill or dump bags. I can also bring my nose down at slower speeds and stop that pesky porpoising at higher speeds making for a more comfortable ride while I'm cruising.

 

Second best mod I have done. Right after upgrading my stock ballast. Thanks for all the help from everyone here! :thumbsup:

 

post-3339-0-19557600-1400933071_thumb.jpgpost-3339-0-19498900-1400933074_thumb.jpgpost-3339-0-66343800-1400933075_thumb.jpg

Edited by knotguilty

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Shaka    146

I think you could countersink those bolts making the bottom perfectly flat.

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duramat    465

Looks good!!!

 

Easy peasy with this bad chicken. (Just take your time no need to go balls out turbo with it)

 

me8aqeny.jpg

 

You'll just need some countersink Stainless bolts

 

Again, looks good!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I finished up my plate install a few weeks back. Worlds of difference both loaded with ballast making waves and cruising down the lake. I'm not a goofy rider but I wanted an actuated plate and figured that the asymmetrical plate was the way to go if I was going to do it.

 

I have about 4" of travel up and 2" of travel down. I decided to go with a single actuator closer to the port side because of the ballast intakes. I don't want to go with the Lenco control module and am afraid that the actuators may go out of sync or god forbid one of the actuators failed and locked in place while the other still moved.

 

I used 3/16" 6061 T6 (Fully aged) aluminum. I had to use a 60 ton hydraulic brake to bend the plate after attempting on 2 manuals. I have no fear of the plate bending under load and I found it on e-bay for just over $50 with shipping. The guy who helped me bend the plate built his own aircraft so riveting the plate to the hinge was the only way to go and everything is flat other than the pan head screws that came with the actuator. I went with a 1581A911 hinge from McMaster-Carr.

 

For wiring I used the Teleflex switch with 4 standard single pole relays. 2 for up and 2 for down. The 4 relays are not as clean as only having 2 double pole relays but I only paid $15 for 5 with harnesses that lock together on Amazon. In the end everything looks clean and is tucked nicely behind my switch panel.

 

Everything together I paid $340 and am very pleased. My port wave is taller now and with a couple of taps I can make a longer wave for me and the steeper shorter wave for the wife without stopping to fill or dump bags. I can also bring my nose down at slower speeds and stop that pesky porpoising at higher speeds making for a more comfortable ride while I'm cruising.

 

Second best mod I have done. Right after upgrading my stock ballast. Thanks for all the help from everyone here! :thumbsup:

 

attachicon.gifIMG_1697.JPGattachicon.gifIMG_1699.JPGattachicon.gifIMG_1700.JPG

That is perfect for what I was thinking about doing. Thanks for the pictures. I have everything ran so will try and mount it up tomorrow. Any concerns of using 3m 5200 rather than the 4200? No one around here seems to have the 4200.

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Troy. R    186

7.5,

I used some Attwood below the water line sealant I got from Walmart for like $5. My wire harness thru-hull is so right to begin I have no concerns about it leaking. I actually had to lube the harness up with dish soap to pull it through.

 

Knotguilty,

Looks great! Well done and great explanation of the ditterence.

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Jralvarez21    0
On 2/19/2014 at 6:14 PM, duramat said:

post-50-0-12803500-1392862411_thumb.jpgpost-50-0-15887200-1392862328_thumb.jpgpost-50-0-46204000-1392862239_thumb.jpgpost-50-0-23851900-1392862184_thumb.jpgpost-50-0-44468900-1392862286_thumb.jpg

Is this for the elite ? I have an 02 I’m trying to build a stationary tab for. Just want something to help a little until I can get a hinge on it this winter with an actuator 

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Jralvarez21    0
31 minutes ago, Jralvarez21 said:

Is this for the elite ? I have an 02 I’m trying to build a stationary tab for. Just want something to help a little until I can get a hinge on it this winter with an actuator 

Nevermind! I read through again, long night early morning. Got it all figure now. Thanks!

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Troy. R    186
8 hours ago, Jralvarez21 said:

Nevermind! I read through again, long night early morning. Got it all figure now. Thanks!

Glad you figured it out. Yeah, duramat’s is on an Elite V, but his is an ‘07. I believe the ‘02 was a different hull than the ‘07.

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