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cheese    0

Can anyone lead me to a good site on how to specifically change the impeller on a 2006 DD 5.7 TKS Merc. If anyone also has detailed pictures of everything that would be great. looked at the master craft site but that is a V-drive and was wondering if i have to remove the belt wheel or just remove the housing? Any help is appreciated!

Thanks for your time

Cheese

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WakeDoc    471

have you tried the Merc. site or called them directly? If you can post a pic of the impeller housing I would be happy to offer advice but, not sure what housing you have. The last Merc. I had the housing was seprate not part fo the engine and it was esiaer to remove the whole housing and work on it at a work table.

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cheese    0

It is a merc Bravo two water pump I guess. At work right now but can get pictures by thursday.

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cheese    0

Changed the impeller today it wasn't that hard. Had to take all the hoses off and pick out pieces of the old impeller. Took a couple of hours but next time should be under an hour start to finish. The dealer was going to charge 250 for the parts and labor and additional if he had to go through all the hoses. So for a new kit I purchased for 100 (from the dealer will get from on-line next year) so I saved 150 off what the dealer was going to charge. Well worth the time and effort!! The 5.7 L DD TKS has a bravo 2 water pump. Its easy to find online.

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right -on Cheese! I hope you got all the little pieces of the old impeller out. You will find it to be very problematic if you didn't. Good luck though.

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Bigshow    0

My impeller kit cost less than $40. I'll do mine next weekend.

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ladderrat    0

did the impeller change last week, bout an hour and a half (including painting it pretty again), good chance to go through the cooling system, pull the water drain plugs on the v-drive, etc. dream about boardin!! just take your time, its not hard by any stretch....

 

45$ for the impeller, 6$ for the beer- good times :shok:

 

wahi wahi

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Bigshow    0

I just changed the impeller on the Mighty Enzo. The impeller bring s cooling “sea water†in to the engine. This is the first time I’ve done this routine maintenance myself. This was a learning experience so I thought I’d share.

 

The Mighty Enzo is equipped with a 330 HP Mercury Black Scorpion V-drive power package. The replacement impeller part number is 47-862232A 2. The impeller comes with a new O-ring. It’s a good idea to keep your old impeller and O-ring as an emergency spare.

 

Changing the impeller is necessary annual maintenance. I’ve had my dealer do this every year except last year when I bought my Enzo, a two year old boat. I really don’t know if the previous owner ever changed the impeller so I kind of ran at risk last year.

 

So, the hard part was finding the sea water pump. The serpentine belt is at the very back of the boat. There are two idlers at the top of the loop, below them along the center is the circulating pump, then the crankshaft pulley. Off to one side at the bottom is the alternator and off to the bottom of the other side is the sea water pump. So basically the sea water pump is about as hard to reach as possible. I removed the V-drive locker dividers to make access easy.

 

You can identify the sea water pump by the two attached hoses and two drain valves. The easy part of the job is removing the hoses from the pump. All you have to do is loosen two band clamps and pull the hoses.

 

I couldn’t figure out which idler was the tensioning idler. One idler has a long 8 mm hex head shaft, that’s the tensioning idler. I loosened the larger 5/8 inch nut on the tensioning idler; that let the idler slip out of place and loosen the serpentine belt.

 

Next come the hard part, figuring out how the pump is bolted on to the engine. This would be easy if the engine were removed from the boat so you could see the pump, but alas that is not a practical option. Feeling around the pump I located a long threaded rod with a nut and I located a bolt near the threaded rod. I couldn’t find anything else so I got a 9/16 deep well socket out. You need a deep well socket to remove the nut from the threaded rod. First I removed the bolt. One turn on the nut on the threaded rod and the pump swung down.

 

The hard part was getting the pump out from under the engine. The fuel filter was in the way and I didn’t have replacement filter. So I worked the pump over to the other side of the boat and removed it near where the alternator is at.

 

Once out it was easy to take the pump apart. Take care to note how the impeller stators are bent, you need to put the new impeller in the same way. I used a screw driver to pry the impellor up and out of the pump.

 

The hard part of the job is putting the new impellor in to the pump. I kept pressing and spinning the impellor until it aligned with the drive shaft and then I pushed it in. I spun the pump wheel as I pressed the new impeller in to the pump.

 

Next, I placed the O-ring in a the V-oval track and carefully replaced the pump lid . The pump is made from of three parts, the pump body, lid, and mounting bracket. The mounting bracket bolts were secured with red thread locker. I put red thread locker on all of the pump lid bolts.

 

I fished the pump back in to place starting from the alternator side and got the pump back on the threaded rod. Reassembly was much faster since I had some idea of what I was doing.

 

The hard part was getting the tensioning idler tight. The first three tries were too loose. On the last try I leveraged the circulating pump wheel against the tensioning idler with a long wrench while I tightened the 5/8s nut on the idler.

 

OK, there were few hard parts. It probably took me over two hours. I also had to make a trip to the hardware store for thread locker. Next time I replace the impeller it should take less than an hour. No reason not to do this myself again.

 

The Mighty Enzo

post-47-1240016631_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the V-drive dividers

post-47-1240016657_thumb.jpg

 

The serpentine belt at the back of the boat

post-47-1240016646_thumb.jpg

 

The tensioning idler with the 8 mm hex shaft

post-47-1240016669_thumb.jpg

 

Get access to the pump from lower corner

post-47-1240016700_thumb.jpg

 

The pump after removal

post-47-1240016946_thumb.jpgpost-47-1240016954_thumb.jpg

 

The pump, lid, and bracket

post-47-1240016966_thumb.jpg

 

Removing the old impeller

post-47-1240017073_thumb.jpg

 

The new part

post-47-1240017081_thumb.jpg

 

The empty pump cavity

post-47-1240017095_thumb.jpg

 

Red thread locker

post-47-1240017104_thumb.jpg

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Joe B    17
No reason not to do this myself again.

 

No reason not to drive to Show's house and buy a 12-pack and some steaks! :thumbsup:

 

77marine just did mine and all the blades were folded flat and about to shred. Do It! Good write-up. Thanks

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bcollins    18

I was kind of on the fence about changing it but doesn't sound to difficult so I'm going to give it a go. Great write up show and those pics help alot. Your part # is the same as mine so I'm thinking it must be pretty similiar to what you dealt with. Wish me luck, doing all the DIY maintenance tomorrow...got the oil, oil filter, oil pump thingamajig, fuel filter/water seperator, impeller, prop puller for the new Acme 525...I'm getting stoked for the season. Anybody has any info on the jabsco pump impeller let me know...not having much luck with that. I'll let you know how it goes.

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1911    4

Well, Im about half way thru the impeller change and i had a question. Does the new impeller need to be lubed before putting it back in? if so, what do i lube it with? thanks for any help. Im on my way to the dealer, as the impeller listed for my engine is the wrong one. I need to take it back and get the new one.

 

I have a 2003 typhoon with the 330 black scorpion. for any one with this engine/boat combo, i would highly recommend getting a new water separator/fuel filter, as the pump was basically impossible to get out without removing the filter. Not a very hard install other than that.

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WakeDoc    471

I use soap but, make sure to use the kind that won't hurt the environment, we would not want whales blowing giant bubbles out of their blow holes.

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Tensioning our belt was not that big a deal. put a wrench on the larger nut then used a smaller wrench on the hex end of the idler pulley shaft to tension the belt. our idler pulley's hex end shaft has a cog behind the pulley that rides in a toothed braket. when it was at the right tension I simply tightened the larger, closer nut...

Edited by eleventenths

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ladderrat    0

i use KY when puttin her back together, just helps stuff go the way it should...........

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rizza32    0

Last impeller I bought came with a small tube of lubricant specific for the application. Can't remember exactly what it was.

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bcollins    18

Remember that stuff you used to need to put your bindings on...heard that works great as well and is enviro friendly. Or you know, just spit on it... :thumbsup:

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bcollins    18

yeah sorry, my bad attempt at lubrication humor...

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