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bcollins

Getting two beeps every minute.....need help

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enzo101mo    98

Ok You Have the same problem I had last summer. First I thought it was my depth finer, It drove me and who ever rode in the boat nuts. I removed the depth finer and replace it and still BEEP. I then brought back to the boat shop who service the boat and he found that when they service the boat a wire came off the oil censor. Take to your boat shop or check all the censor wire connections

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bcollins    18

Thanks enzo, boats in the shop as we speak; unfortunately, they couldn't look at it today so I will be waiting to hear back tomorrow. I know it's not the depth guage as I have the stupid pilot guage and it flashes and gives an annoying single beep every few seconds when I have a voltage issue or depth shows really shallow. Hoping it's just a sensor, fuse, or something dumb....anxiously awaiting their diagnoses.

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poidog1    74

Hey B

 

What did you find out? I have the same problem. Going to check the wiring to see if any wires came loose.

 

Poidog

Edited by poidog1

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When you find out what it is, let me know, Im curious to know if im correct or WAY off!

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bcollins    18

Nothing yet, guys at the shop said they were pretty busy...haven't heard back in a couple days. I did call Tuesday and they said they would try and get to it today. Anticipation is killing me. I'll definitely let you guys know once a get an update.

 

Poidog, I would definitley check for loose hoses, wires, fuses, etc. I did that and everything seemed good so I gave up on trying to troubleshoot as I had already spent $125 on a sensor that ended up not being the problem, unless Jax is correct and it needs to be reset. Good luck.

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bcollins    18

Finally heard back from the shop......Idle air control valve? No idea, haven't researched at this point, just got off the phone 2 minutes ago. FYI. Anyone? Of course I told them to fix it. Mo money, mo money....

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truekaotik    461

The IAC will make it do it as well I guess...

 

We were ALL way off... Lol

 

We tried B :(

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truekaotik    461

Although I am surprised it didn't run funny if it was the IAC....

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bcollins    18

Got it back last night. Took it to the lake today and no more beep. Ran well....I honestly don't sense much of a difference at idle, etc. but it's definitely running a little smoother. Was happy it was taken care of, even if the cost seemed excessive and the customer service was poor at best, until....

 

noticed the bilge going off quite often. Seemed odd but figured I just needed to adjust the packing nut so didn't think much of it. Next thing you know I'm under way and the alarm goes off, temp is up towards the limits and the engine guardian kicks in and shuts down the engine. This was after well over an hour of driving the boat and pulling riders. I look under the hatch and just happen to notice that one of the hoses that is connected to some type of water distribution assembly, it's right after the water distribution housing, is disconnected and pumping water into the boat. honestly it's good I put in a 800 gallon/hour bilge pump or I may have sunk....maybe not. Anyway, I putted back to the dock, it stayed just above 175, trailered the boat and brought it home. I reconnected the hose and noticed it's not really something that could have come loose as it has a locking type mechanism on it. Is this something they would have disconnected? I have to admit, I can't really prove it but these guys may have really dropped the ball. I checked it out online and this is one of the hoses that connected directly to the block. It seemed to run fine once I put the hose back on but I'm concerned this could have done some damage. It got hot and shut down immediately so it wasn't running hot for very long; and seems to be running at the right temp now that it's hooked back up, but I'm not running it at high rpms or under load so I don't know without running it at the lake. Any thoughts?

 

I have to say my faith in these guys has all but run out and I feel like they should be liable if there is any future problems but not sure how I can prove that they ever pulled that hose. I could be wrong but like I said, that hose doesn't seem like it would pop off or come loose. I assume if it was running hot the whole time it would have registered on the guage and it was running at normal temps until all of a sudden the alarm goes off.

 

Man, not even sure what to say. I'm hoping all is good and I dodged a bullet but I feel like if they somehow forgot I need to say something now just in case but I want to be able to confirm this was something they would have potentially taken off or knocked off in the process of either diagnosing or replacing the IAC Valve (not even sure where it is).

Edited by bcollins

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CeeDee    16

The Idle Air Control valve is mounted on the Throttle Body at the top of the engine. Where is the hose located ? Pic's ?

 

Working in an automotive service dept I can say that shops quite often get blamed for something that coincidentally goes wrong after they they have worked on some other part of the car or boat in this case.

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boardjnky4    8

Probably not a big deal. The engine guardian is there for a reason. Overheating the engine for a short amount of time is unlikely to do any long-term damage.

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bcollins    18

Yeah, I definitely don't want to do that, i.e. blame guys for something that wasn't their fault and maybe it did pop off randomly and it was just a coincidence. I figured I would ask you guys if them even taking the line off seemed reasonable as it is basically underneith the serpentine belt all the way at the bottom of the motor. Plus the fact that it ran fine for awhile makes me think maybe it did pop off later; however, the bilge was running pretty much right after we got in the water. Anyway, I think I was just frustrated at the time but feeling a little better about it now. I'm still not real happy with them, but that's more in regards to them giving me the run around about the when they would get around to working on it. Not a big deal, I just like to feel like they're happy I'm giving them my business and I didn't get that impression. Anyway, they did fix the beeps so they obviously know what they're doing and I've had a pretty neutral experience with them in the past. With that said I'm probably going to try another shop next time that a friend swears by. I'm also going to buy a new quick connect, or whatever you call it, for the end of that hose just in case.

 

Thanks to everyone for their help and ideas.

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bcollins    18

Forgot I took this picture so figured I would post it up. The red arrow is pointing to where the hose "was" attached...that's a steady stream of water flowing out of it. The circle is the hose that should be attached.

post-107-0-74882700-1338835538_thumb.jpg

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jshayerT5    0

What is your serial number on your motor? Pic is hard to tell where that hose is going. (Maybe going to the fuel cooler...)

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bcollins    18

According to the schematic, see below, the hose goes directly into the block. I also followed it and that's exactly where it went. I drew some arrows, I put some circles around them to make it easier, on the picture but they're black so kind of hard to see. Basically if you look at the lower left hand portion of the picture you'll see the box with a blow up of the exact part that came off...#17 is a quick connect that attaches to the fitting, #3. That quick connect came off and you know the rest...That's what you see in the picture where the water is coming out. If you look directly above that box you'll see the part in the box, circled. Follow the hose and you'll see it goes directly to the block, circled w/arrow.

 

I hooked it back up and it seemed to run fine and temps stayed steady but that was on a fake a lake and running very low rpms...mostly idle but I gave it a bit of gas to test. It did drip slowly because I lost the O ring, #20 in picure, so I ordered one along with a new quick connect, #17 just in case.

 

post-107-0-46673600-1339631515_thumb.gif

Edited by bcollins

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jshayerT5    0

According to the schematic, see below, the hose goes directly into the block. I also followed it and that's exactly where it went. I drew some arrows, I put some circles around them to make it easier, on the picture but they're black so kind of hard to see. Basically if you look at the lower left hand portion of the picture you'll see the box with a blow up of the exact part that came off...#17 is a quick connect that attaches to the fitting, #3. That quick connect came off and you know the rest...That's what you see in the picture where the water is coming out. If you look directly above that box you'll see the part in the box, circled. Follow the hose and you'll see it goes directly to the block, circled w/arrow.

 

I hooked it back up and it seemed to run fine and temps stayed steady but that was on a fake a lake and running very low rpms...mostly idle but I gave it a bit of gas to test. It did drip slowly because I lost the O ring, #20 in picure, so I ordered one along with a new quick connect, #17 just in case.

 

post-107-0-46673600-1339631515_thumb.gif

 

 

Crazy that there is that many lines returning to the block. What motor do you have?

Seems like you may be back in business when you replace that fitting and O-ring.

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bcollins    18

 

 

Crazy that there is that many lines returning to the block. What motor do you have?

Seems like you may be back in business when you replace that fitting and O-ring.

 

 

I have the MERC 350 MAG MPI SKI. I hope so, it should be here on Saturday just in time for me to install for Father's day. As I said before, I hooked it back up and it seemed to run fine but I'm probably going to switch out the connector anyway and for sure put in on the O ring. Sounds easy but it's not easy getting at it, kind of in the middle under everything. I'll let you guys know when I'm done.

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boardjnky4    8

 

 

Crazy that there is that many lines returning to the block. What motor do you have?

Seems like you may be back in business when you replace that fitting and O-ring.

 

The 350 Mag MPI has a nice 3-point water drain system. There are a lot of hoses, but it's super easy to pull the blue plugs and drain the block on this boat.

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bcollins    18

Well finally got around to replacing the quick connect. The old one was stuck on the braided hose really well so I just cut it off, had plenty of hose....well, I had enough. Stuck the new one on, had to heat up the hose a little, and put a clamp on it just in case. Also replaced the o ring. Anyway, seems like a much tighter fit now.

 

Well, I must admit that as close as these connections are to the water pump there is a high liklihood I knocked one loose in the process of taking it out to change the impeller. My bad for suggesting the shop had something to do with it. I was just irritated at the time. Anyway, something to be careful of when you pull the pump.

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atk1721    1

I had a beep beep every minute for about 7 minutes and then it would stop. It was only happening on the first cold start of the day. I read all the posts but I do not have a diagnostic tool to test it or clear the codes. I figured it was the sensor on the top of the engine near the throttle cable like most of you guys said. I have a black scorpion engine. I took it in thinking it was a going to cost somewhere between 100-125.00 for the part plus labour. It ended up being 125.00 for the part and 35.00 for an impeller and 330.00 in labour. They changed that sensor but they also took apart the impeller housing to see if there was any issues in there. They changed my impeller while they had it open. It makes sense to change the impeller if its open, except for the fact that they changed my impeller 4 months ago when I got the boat summer ready. I guess checking the system is being cautious on the part of the mechanics but do you guys think it was necessary. Did I get worked over ?

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truekaotik    461

I had a beep beep every minute for about 7 minutes and then it would stop. It was only happening on the first cold start of the day. I read all the posts but I do not have a diagnostic tool to test it or clear the codes. I figured it was the sensor on the top of the engine near the throttle cable like most of you guys said. I have a black scorpion engine. I took it in thinking it was a going to cost somewhere between 100-125.00 for the part plus labour. It ended up being 125.00 for the part and 35.00 for an impeller and 330.00 in labour. They changed that sensor but they also took apart the impeller housing to see if there was any issues in there. They changed my impeller while they had it open. It makes sense to change the impeller if its open, except for the fact that they changed my impeller 4 months ago when I got the boat summer ready. I guess checking the system is being cautious on the part of the mechanics but do you guys think it was necessary. Did I get worked over ?

330 seems high for labor.. compare it to your bill 4 months ago when it was done maybe? The sensor takes about 5 minutes to replace... thats around 300 just to do your impeller..... ouch....

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atk1721    1

Last time it was 120.00 in labour to do the impeller. Im just thinking that they did not need to check the whole cooling system

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mancho    85

Last time it was 120.00 in labour to do the impeller. Im just thinking that they did not need to check the whole cooling system

 

If you're impeller shredded, yes, you need to have the WHOLE cooling system checked. Whole means, getting access to those things that are possible wo pulling the engine. We found impeller debris in many parts in the cooling system, the fuel chiller to the screen at the Vdrive. Check it all, or you'll constantly be worrying why your boat engine runs hot, and possibly overheats.

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atk1721    1

True, except the mechanic told me it was not running hot and that it was just a faulty sensor. He even told me to run the boat until the part came in. That's why it was a shocker that they checked the cooling system and did the impeller. Oh well, the boat is running well and the beeps are gone. Thanks for the replies

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