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bcollins

Getting two beeps every minute.....need help

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Im telling you, That if you did not have the computer code cleared, IT IS GOING TO BEEP!! I spent hours on phone with merc about this and my service place, etc...If thats the sensor that is bad, the code has to be cleared. Now im sure it can be 1 of many things, But Im willing to be if you replace that sensor and get the computer codes read and cleard it will fix it. Also you can pull those hoses off and check for tash in there. There is a metal screen that stops larger items from continuing to flow, Mine was not bad by any means, but it did have trash in there...

 

But what do I know. I had the POS sensor went out 3 times on my boat! Also I cant remember exactly, if the sensor says "made in mexico" or China, but Im pretty sure it was mexico, they are bad.. Thats what merc said, the factory, etc...Once I got my 3rd one that did not say mexico, it has been all good

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bcollins    18

You did say that and I hope you're right...I just had a few other guys say they didn't have to clear it and the fact that it started, then stopped for a half a day, suggested to me that it would clear itself. I'm calling the shop today to set up a time to get it in. It will probably be awhile so I'll keep looking at it in the mean time but I don't think I'm going to buy any more parts.

 

I cleared the trans cooler, there is nothing there. I did clear out some grass, etc from in there before I changed the impeller. All good now and the water temp is where it should be while running which is why I'm so confused. Heck, even the guy at the shop wasn't surprised I was changing that sensor, said they go bad all the time.

 

ha, that's funny about where it's made because when I bought it I saw assembled in mexico and was like "damn, are you kidding me. $125 for this stupid sensor and it probably cost them $10 to make." I'm fairly convinced the sensor is fine but honestly I hope it's bad so when i take it in I can tell them I bought it here so don't even think about charging me for a new one.

 

Anyway, it will be going to the shop as soon as I can get it in. Praying it's nothing major.

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truekaotik    458

Yes I was told it had to be cleared like Jax said... Guess I just got lucky :)

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jshayerT5    0

B... I have the Rinda tech mate, we can scan it and check out the codes. I live in Ventura, a little trek but if you want to come up this way. Let me know.

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bcollins    18

Thanks man, Ventura is quite the trek from San Diego but I appreciate the offer. I actually dropped it off at the shop on Saturday but they said they probably wouldn't look at it until today so keeping my fingers crossed.

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enzo101mo    98

Ok You Have the same problem I had last summer. First I thought it was my depth finer, It drove me and who ever rode in the boat nuts. I removed the depth finer and replace it and still BEEP. I then brought back to the boat shop who service the boat and he found that when they service the boat a wire came off the oil censor. Take to your boat shop or check all the censor wire connections

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bcollins    18

Thanks enzo, boats in the shop as we speak; unfortunately, they couldn't look at it today so I will be waiting to hear back tomorrow. I know it's not the depth guage as I have the stupid pilot guage and it flashes and gives an annoying single beep every few seconds when I have a voltage issue or depth shows really shallow. Hoping it's just a sensor, fuse, or something dumb....anxiously awaiting their diagnoses.

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poidog1    74

Hey B

 

What did you find out? I have the same problem. Going to check the wiring to see if any wires came loose.

 

Poidog

Edited by poidog1

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When you find out what it is, let me know, Im curious to know if im correct or WAY off!

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bcollins    18

Nothing yet, guys at the shop said they were pretty busy...haven't heard back in a couple days. I did call Tuesday and they said they would try and get to it today. Anticipation is killing me. I'll definitely let you guys know once a get an update.

 

Poidog, I would definitley check for loose hoses, wires, fuses, etc. I did that and everything seemed good so I gave up on trying to troubleshoot as I had already spent $125 on a sensor that ended up not being the problem, unless Jax is correct and it needs to be reset. Good luck.

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bcollins    18

Finally heard back from the shop......Idle air control valve? No idea, haven't researched at this point, just got off the phone 2 minutes ago. FYI. Anyone? Of course I told them to fix it. Mo money, mo money....

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truekaotik    458

The IAC will make it do it as well I guess...

 

We were ALL way off... Lol

 

We tried B :(

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truekaotik    458

Although I am surprised it didn't run funny if it was the IAC....

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bcollins    18

Got it back last night. Took it to the lake today and no more beep. Ran well....I honestly don't sense much of a difference at idle, etc. but it's definitely running a little smoother. Was happy it was taken care of, even if the cost seemed excessive and the customer service was poor at best, until....

 

noticed the bilge going off quite often. Seemed odd but figured I just needed to adjust the packing nut so didn't think much of it. Next thing you know I'm under way and the alarm goes off, temp is up towards the limits and the engine guardian kicks in and shuts down the engine. This was after well over an hour of driving the boat and pulling riders. I look under the hatch and just happen to notice that one of the hoses that is connected to some type of water distribution assembly, it's right after the water distribution housing, is disconnected and pumping water into the boat. honestly it's good I put in a 800 gallon/hour bilge pump or I may have sunk....maybe not. Anyway, I putted back to the dock, it stayed just above 175, trailered the boat and brought it home. I reconnected the hose and noticed it's not really something that could have come loose as it has a locking type mechanism on it. Is this something they would have disconnected? I have to admit, I can't really prove it but these guys may have really dropped the ball. I checked it out online and this is one of the hoses that connected directly to the block. It seemed to run fine once I put the hose back on but I'm concerned this could have done some damage. It got hot and shut down immediately so it wasn't running hot for very long; and seems to be running at the right temp now that it's hooked back up, but I'm not running it at high rpms or under load so I don't know without running it at the lake. Any thoughts?

 

I have to say my faith in these guys has all but run out and I feel like they should be liable if there is any future problems but not sure how I can prove that they ever pulled that hose. I could be wrong but like I said, that hose doesn't seem like it would pop off or come loose. I assume if it was running hot the whole time it would have registered on the guage and it was running at normal temps until all of a sudden the alarm goes off.

 

Man, not even sure what to say. I'm hoping all is good and I dodged a bullet but I feel like if they somehow forgot I need to say something now just in case but I want to be able to confirm this was something they would have potentially taken off or knocked off in the process of either diagnosing or replacing the IAC Valve (not even sure where it is).

Edited by bcollins

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CeeDee    16

The Idle Air Control valve is mounted on the Throttle Body at the top of the engine. Where is the hose located ? Pic's ?

 

Working in an automotive service dept I can say that shops quite often get blamed for something that coincidentally goes wrong after they they have worked on some other part of the car or boat in this case.

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boardjnky4    8

Probably not a big deal. The engine guardian is there for a reason. Overheating the engine for a short amount of time is unlikely to do any long-term damage.

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bcollins    18

Yeah, I definitely don't want to do that, i.e. blame guys for something that wasn't their fault and maybe it did pop off randomly and it was just a coincidence. I figured I would ask you guys if them even taking the line off seemed reasonable as it is basically underneith the serpentine belt all the way at the bottom of the motor. Plus the fact that it ran fine for awhile makes me think maybe it did pop off later; however, the bilge was running pretty much right after we got in the water. Anyway, I think I was just frustrated at the time but feeling a little better about it now. I'm still not real happy with them, but that's more in regards to them giving me the run around about the when they would get around to working on it. Not a big deal, I just like to feel like they're happy I'm giving them my business and I didn't get that impression. Anyway, they did fix the beeps so they obviously know what they're doing and I've had a pretty neutral experience with them in the past. With that said I'm probably going to try another shop next time that a friend swears by. I'm also going to buy a new quick connect, or whatever you call it, for the end of that hose just in case.

 

Thanks to everyone for their help and ideas.

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bcollins    18

Forgot I took this picture so figured I would post it up. The red arrow is pointing to where the hose "was" attached...that's a steady stream of water flowing out of it. The circle is the hose that should be attached.

post-107-0-74882700-1338835538_thumb.jpg

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jshayerT5    0

What is your serial number on your motor? Pic is hard to tell where that hose is going. (Maybe going to the fuel cooler...)

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bcollins    18

According to the schematic, see below, the hose goes directly into the block. I also followed it and that's exactly where it went. I drew some arrows, I put some circles around them to make it easier, on the picture but they're black so kind of hard to see. Basically if you look at the lower left hand portion of the picture you'll see the box with a blow up of the exact part that came off...#17 is a quick connect that attaches to the fitting, #3. That quick connect came off and you know the rest...That's what you see in the picture where the water is coming out. If you look directly above that box you'll see the part in the box, circled. Follow the hose and you'll see it goes directly to the block, circled w/arrow.

 

I hooked it back up and it seemed to run fine and temps stayed steady but that was on a fake a lake and running very low rpms...mostly idle but I gave it a bit of gas to test. It did drip slowly because I lost the O ring, #20 in picure, so I ordered one along with a new quick connect, #17 just in case.

 

post-107-0-46673600-1339631515_thumb.gif

Edited by bcollins

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