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LakeSurfer    10

I finally have my 244 wave dialed in on the port side. Current set up is (with 3 man crew)

 

500lb quick fill

750lbs back locker

160 lead back locker

580lbs sac under surf side seat

160lbs lead under surf side seat (towards ski locker)

250lbs center tank

 

2,400lbs total

 

So here is my issue, my surf side sac is bleeding off water through my empty line (my overflow lines are cross vented to the other side). The sac empties via an aerator pump and the pump evidently does not keep it from bleeding off once the boat gets weighted.

 

Anybody have a solution for keeping the sac from bleeding off through the empty line? The only thing I can think of is to buy some more hose and run a new empty line that will go from the back of the sac (which is near the engine) towards the the ski locker and then back down to the side thru hull (which is on the side back near the aerator pump). I would think this would cause the empty line basically run "up hill" a little once the boat is weighted.

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DarksideR    1,679

Ball valve.

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LakeSurfer    10

Ball valve.

 

dont have room based on location of the pump. I would not be able to reach it once the sac is full.

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Wylie_Tunes    147

Lake surfer,

 

This is a common problem with tall sacs and aerator pumps. When design and install a system, I "T" the drain and vent lines together and cross both to the non-weighted side, or on some boats, run it forward and locate the t-hull in the mid-ship area. This puts the t-hull outlet uphill from the sac when its full. Passive draining can also be found in the fill line with aerators. If hose routing doesnt cure it, then a check-valve in between the pump and sac will usually do the trick.

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LakeSurfer    10

Lake surfer,

 

This is a common problem with tall sacs and aerator pumps. When design and install a system, I "T" the drain and vent lines together and cross both to the non-weighted side, or on some boats, run it forward and locate the t-hull in the mid-ship area. This puts the t-hull outlet uphill from the sac when its full. Passive draining can also be found in the fill line with aerators. If hose routing doesnt cure it, then a check-valve in between the pump and sac will usually do the trick.

 

Thanks Wylie. The "T" is a great idea, but I cant do this. I have already "T" the overflow lines from rear locker sac and the side sac together and run them to the opposite side.

 

What type of check-valve are you talking about? Based on where the pump is located, I cant add any type of manual valve because once the sac is filled, I wont be able to reach the valve.

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LakeSurfer    10

FYI: I have come up with a short term ghetto fix. I went to Lows and bought a 3/4 inch rubber plug that I will put into the into the 3/4 inch thru hull. Pull the rubber plug out when I wont to empty it.

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duffymahoney    10

I run empty and vents to the opposite side. Easy solution:)

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superdtf    68

I run empty and vents to the opposite side. Easy solution:)

^^Yup. Stop trying to fight gravity with gimmicks and gizmos, and let it help you win.

Edited by superdtf

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DarksideR    1,679

I thought he already had that. But in lakes post, he did say vent but nothing about drain line location. Lake?

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LakeSurfer    10

Right now I am only running the vent lines. I was hoping someone had a way of getting the pumps to quit letting water through. Looks like I will be running the empty lines across as well. I would have done this done when I had the system stalled if I had know about this problem with Aerator pumps.

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mojoridin    1

Check valves should solve your problem. They only let water flow one way. Install them inbetween your pump and the sac.

 

http://www.wakemakers.com/marine-check-valve.html

 

I had the same problem, not anymore :thumbsup:

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superdtf    68

Check valves should solve your problem. They only let water flow one way. Install them inbetween your pump and the sac.

 

http://www.wakemaker...heck-valve.html

 

I had the same problem, not anymore :thumbsup:

For the drain? Maybe I'm not thinking this through the right way - the drain pump sucks the water from the sac and out the drain hose through the thru-hull. A check valve makes it so the water only goes one way. So you put the check valve between the sac and the pump, and then one of two conditions will exist: If it's installed in reverse, you won't be able to pump out your sac. Or if it's installed the right way, it will have no effect.

UNLESS, you're referring to a flow control valve, like those used in HVAC applications that prevents flow below a certain head threshold (but I really don't think you're referring to that, and it'd put undue stress on a little aerator pump).

The check valve you've linked to would be appropriate for installing between the FILL pump and the sac, to prevent bleeding back past the fill pump.

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superdtf    68

Oh, and the idea about running a loop up the boat and then returning it to the same thru-hull where it's draining from now is not optimal. While the additional length might prevent the sac from STARTING to drain, once it did start, you'd have a pretty good siphon running.

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Wylie_Tunes    147

For the drain? Maybe I'm not thinking this through the right way - the drain pump sucks the water from the sac and out the drain hose through the thru-hull. A check valve makes it so the water only goes one way. So you put the check valve between the sac and the pump, and then one of two conditions will exist: If it's installed in reverse, you won't be able to pump out your sac. Or if it's installed the right way, it will have no effect.

UNLESS, you're referring to a flow control valve, like those used in HVAC applications that prevents flow below a certain head threshold (but I really don't think you're referring to that, and it'd put undue stress on a little aerator pump).

The check valve you've linked to would be appropriate for installing between the FILL pump and the sac, to prevent bleeding back past the fill pump.

 

 

The right check-valve between the drain pump and the thru-hull outlet can stop the passive draining through the drain plumbing. The c/v linked above will not do it. What Lakesurfer needs is a PVC check-valve from a plumbing supply store that is a flapper style valve with a very mild spring tension.

 

How it works: The gravity fed water pressure that normally drains out passively, will be held back by the spring tension, but the pump will have enough force to off seat the flapper and allow draining when the pump is on.

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superdtf    68

 

 

The right check-valve between the drain pump and the thru-hull outlet can stop the passive draining through the drain plumbing. The c/v linked above will not do it. What Lakesurfer needs is a PVC check-valve from a plumbing supply store that is a flapper style valve with a very mild spring tension.

 

How it works: The gravity fed water pressure that normally drains out passively, will be held back by the spring tension, but the pump will have enough force to off seat the flapper and allow draining when the pump is on.

Ah, like the flow control valve I described for HVAC. I still don't think that's an awesome solution for a little aerator pump. I'd go with gravity and route the vent and drain lines to the other side. If you don't have enough thru-hulls, then you could use a "T" and route the vent and drain to it, with the addition of a check valve on the vent side of the "T" to prevent the drain pump from cycling water back down the vent when you're emptying the sac.

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LakeSurfer    10

Thanks for everybody's help. I went ahead and ordered some more hose and will just run the empty lines to the opposite side like I did the vent lines. After looking through the boat, I should have enough room to basically run them where the vent lines already run.

 

I did put a plug in the thru hull today and it worked like a champ. Just a little ghetto for me, but it was a great $1 fix.

Edited by LakeSurfer

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DrNate    426

Thanks for everybody's help. I went ahead and ordered some more hose and will just run the empty lines to the opposite side like I did the vent lines. After looking through the boat, I should have enough room to basically run them where the vent lines already run.

 

I did put a plug in the thru hull today and it worked like a champ. Just a little ghetto for me, but it was a great $1 fix.

 

 

I like the $1 fix. I'm gonna do that on mine too until the end of the season when I can rerun my overflow hose to the opposite side.

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chinocat    0

Out of curiosity could one just add a sprinkler valve after the pump on the drain line and wire it up with the pump?

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Wylie_Tunes    147

Out of curiosity could one just add a sprinkler valve after the pump on the drain line and wire it up with the pump?

 

Yes, but they are horribly restrictive.

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superdtf    68

Out of curiosity could one just add a sprinkler valve after the pump on the drain line and wire it up with the pump?

And then the switch and relay? That's like 10x the work of running the drain to the opposite thru-hulls.

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LakeSurfer    10

Ran new empty lines to the opposite side this morning. Hoping to get it lake tested tomorrow. Not a bad mod. Needed about 25ft of hose, wife's hair dryer, zip ties and screw driver. Took about 1.5 hrs by the time I got it all cleaned up. This was my 1st try at something like this, so It will go much faster next time.

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Hey Lake, Did running the empty lines to the opposite of the boat work for you? Sounds like I'm in a similar situation to you. I just installed an 1100 lb sac in my port side locker in place of the hard tank that was in there before. I did reroute the vent hose to the opposite side, but I didn't think water would bleed out through the aerator ballast-empty pump, so I left that alone.

 

Since my starboard tank is still there and the empty pump is on the bottom back side, I'm thinking I can just disconnect that hose, extend it to the port side (sac) empty pump using a barbed 3/4" union and a few feet of hose. Then I would do the same for routing hose to the empty pump for the starboard tank.

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