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poosie    7

ok after months of planning, purchasing and installing im finally ready for the water test this weekend. started by drilling the thru hull fitting which after reading all the posts about putting a hole in the boat was actually pretty easy. like i said before use a new hole saw in reverse and everything will be fine. the intake is located under the swim platform and there is just enough room to reach down and open/close the ball valve.post-395-0-28129900-1336137209_thumb.jpgpost-395-0-54265000-1336137234_thumb.jpgpost-395-0-01915000-1336137256_thumb.jpgpost-395-0-95171800-1336137271_thumb.jpgpost-395-0-57510200-1336137297_thumb.jpg

 

Next i installed the 3 air vents and i know if you look closely they are not exactly centered but wtf. looks like it should work. I put all the vents on the opposite side of the bagspost-395-0-70200600-1336137347_thumb.jpgpost-395-0-12366400-1336137362_thumb.jpgpost-395-0-54770400-1336137381_thumb.jpg

 

Inside fitting right by the exhuast outlet. from there i ran my flexible tubing to the inlet of the 2 johnson pumps which i located in the back starboard compartment. post-395-0-34848500-1336137440_thumb.jpgpost-395-0-15199100-1336137473_thumb.jpgpost-395-0-27277600-1336137496_thumb.jpg

 

tubing running from pumps to port side tube sac and bowpost-395-0-95811400-1336137535_thumb.jpg

 

finished pump install with check valves. 1 pump for the 1100# port and 1 pump for the port tube/bow sacpost-395-0-93634600-1336137564_thumb.jpg

 

three way diverting valve from pump #2 to either tube sac under bench or bow depending on crewpost-395-0-19020700-1336137590_thumb.jpg

 

Tube sacpost-395-0-72318300-1336137617_thumb.jpg

Bow sacpost-395-0-24659700-1336137647_thumb.jpg

pumpspost-395-0-69018300-1336137678_thumb.jpg

 

and last but not least the crown jewel of the project, can wait to go out in the dark.post-395-0-20774900-1336137706_thumb.jpgpost-395-0-32101800-1336137750_thumb.jpg

 

only thing left to do is the lake test and make sure the switches are in the right direction. probably the only thing i would have done differantly with the wiring is run #14 gage to pumps/switches as the #12 is pretty stiff behing the switch plate.

 

I just hope it all works. will post wave pics later

post-395-0-35307200-1336137783_thumb.jpg

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dezul    10

Did you use a strainer like the stock ballast system has on it?

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poosie    7

no just the open fitting as it shows through the transom

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SMITH    2

Nice Post! GOod luck on the lake as there will allways be minor issues first time out.

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RhuntIII    557

Check the wiring after using the pumps. 10 gauge is recommend by Johnson Pumps. Running a lesser gauge wire can starve the pumps for voltage and blow fuses. 25 amp fuses for the pumps, switches should be rated for 20 amps. Run it and let us know.

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poosie    7

i didnt check with johnson but why would they recommend a heavier gage wire then is on the pumps which had 14 gage. the 12 gage is good for 20 amps and the pumps FLA is 13amps. I hope the switches are good since i got all the stuff from wakemakers. I'll check the draw when im out for each pump with both running at same time and post. thanks for the input.

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duramat    464

i didnt check with johnson but why would they recommend a heavier gage wire then is on the pumps which had 14 gage. the 12 gage is good for 20 amps and the pumps FLA is 13amps. I hope the switches are good since i got all the stuff from wakemakers. I'll check the draw when im out for each pump with both running at same time and post. thanks for the input.

 

It's not uncommon to see motors, equipment with smaller gauge wire than what is being fed to them. You get a lot of voltage drop when you get down to 12v systems, and like my sparky friend said you don't want to starve it (electrically). You'll be golden with 10 AWG :thumbsup:

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duramat    464

Poosie, inrush current also comes into play with motors, it takes a lot more amps to start a motor from a standstill rest position, plus...now it's under load. (why I go 25A on my fuses)

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RhuntIII    557

Dura thinks he's some kind of electrician. I think he's right. :clap: I thought I installed the 20amp fuses, I went with 25amp.

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chinocat    0

Quick question for you? Which fly high sac did you use in the bow and under the port seat? That is almost the same thing that I would like to accomplish as well.

 

thanks

 

Brant

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poosie    7

chino i used the Fly high W704 tube sac under port bench and the W711 fly high integrated bow sac

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Troy. R    144

For surfing you might want to consider putting a 260 side sac on each side of the bow instead of the integrated bow sac. That way you can isolate the weight to the surf side by just filling the surf side sac.

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volzalum    277
For surfing you might want to consider putting a 260 side sac on each side of the bow instead of the integrated bow sac. That way you can isolate the weight to the surf side by just filling the surf side sac.

 

I find on my Enzo 216 that I get my best surf wave with my integrated bow sac and both my front side sacs full. As for the back, I fill whichever custom Enzo sac I need for regular or goofy. I also keep all 3 front sacs full for wake boarding. My wave is cleaner with the weight in the front.

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PayCheck    20

my cousin is doing the same integrated bow sac, but big on wakeboarding so he stuck 750s in the lockers. looks very clean :thumbsup:

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poosie    7

Am still having issues with the check valves installed on the vent lines for my 3 sacs. the bow sac seems to be ok but the port side locker and bench seat sac do not want to vent until the bad is ready to explode and the on 2 occasions the port side sac fitting popped out. Im going to replace the check valves with manual PVC ball valves and see if this will help. anyone else have issues with the check valves from wakemakers?

 

already verified they are installed correctly for direction of flow.

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Troy. R    144

Am still having issues with the check valves installed on the vent lines for my 3 sacs. the bow sac seems to be ok but the port side locker and bench seat sac do not want to vent until the bad is ready to explode and the on 2 occasions the port side sac fitting popped out. Im going to replace the check valves with manual PVC ball valves and see if this will help. anyone else have issues with the check valves from wakemakers?

 

already verified they are installed correctly for direction of flow.

Have you tried just removing the check valves altogether?

They are not necessary on your vent lines.

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Troy. R    144

Did you do anything in the rear lockers?

What do you mean?

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poosie    7

Ya i have an 1100 in the rear locker and i want to have some sort of valve in the vent line so when i drain the tanks it really gets all the water and sucks them dry.

On a side bar, up here in the northland they are cracking down on zebra mussels especially on wake boats with ballast. If you get pulled over or a DNR check at a launch with water left over in your sacs its a substantial fine. I think it will eventually lead to removing the sacs after leaving the lake and making sure all water is drained out. dont know who's all familar with zebra mussells but only a matter of time before every lake has them.

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Troy. R    144

Ya i have an 1100 in the rear locker and i want to have some sort of valve in the vent line so when i drain the tanks it really gets all the water and sucks them dry.

On a side bar, up here in the northland they are cracking down on zebra mussels especially on wake boats with ballast. If you get pulled over or a DNR check at a launch with water left over in your sacs its a substantial fine. I think it will eventually lead to removing the sacs after leaving the lake and making sure all water is drained out. dont know who's all familar with zebra mussells but only a matter of time before every lake has them.

I remove all of my sacs when i get home to allow them and the carpet in the lockers/under seats to dry out.

I don't have check valves on my vents and my sacs raisin up pretty good. Take them out and see if it solves your problem.

Edited by Troy. R

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poosie    7

will do. thanks for the tip. Still would like to know why those valves did not work very well.

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poosie    7

removed the check valves and put in ball valves, vented just fine. dont know if the water on the back side of the check valves had anything to do with them not opening until there was to much pressure built up in the bags.

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