Any "Sparkies" willing to review my battery wiring diagram?

[Mike Christie 4]

With the season right around the corner, (and a nice bump from the Tax man) I am getting ready to put a new stereo in the boat. Attached is what I think is a good wiring diagram, but would like some opinions. First of all, this wiring diagram is trying to accomplish two things: 1. Wire up some more battery power for my new stereo integrating the Blue Sea add-a-battery and (2) add some relays so that my ballast pumps are more reliable.

 

The one thing that I know this diagram is missing is a shore charger. Unfortunately due to the boat storage situation I do not have access to power, however the boat gets used quite frequently. (2 or so times during the week and all weekend during the summer) Also getting out of our wake zone to get to a place to surf takes about 20 minutes. I only mention this because it allows time to charge, however I don't know how effective 1500 rpms is in charging.

 

1. Right now the stereo is (2) Class D 700 watt amps and a head unit. No EQ or other equipment. One amp powers the Rev 10's, the other does (4) in boats and a sub. I am considering adding a 3rd amp to power (2) additional in boats, so the additional amp will be small, however that will probably happen next year. I drew in the 3 amps to make sure I had enough connector space in my distribution blocks for the future. Right now I do not have any batteries. (I had one Group 24 last season that barely made it to the end) Battery is located under the observer seat with (2) fatty wires running from the engine. I am planning on purchasing (2) or (3) non AGM batteries. I am going with non AGM because I can not keep them properly charged without a shore charger and I figure that for the cost difference, I can just purchase new batteries next year if needed.

 

Stereo will be played will we hang out and lounge for 2-3 hours. I would say at 1/4 volume. Not looking to be "that guy" on the lake. As I mentioned above, our hang out spot is usually a good 20 minutes of WOT away from our wake zone which is another 20 minutes at idle. Plenty of time to charge. Not sure if I even need the 3 batteries, but figured I would draw it in. It would be (2) batteries in parallel for the stereo and other goodies and (1) for starting/helm stuff.

 

The head unit will be wired to a SPST switch using power and ground from the amp. In reading some other forums, I came across this diagram which suggest that wiring the head unit this way is a good way to eliminate any noise in the system. See link for the thread.

 

http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=727021

 

 

2. The rest of the diagram addresses adding some relays for my ballast pumps. I have two johnson pumps. Basically one for the port and one for the starboard. Last year, with only on battery I was not able to run both pumps at one time. As it was with one pump running, I was barely pulling enough voltage for my Perfect Pass to stay on. I would usually have to put it in neutral and put some RPMs behind it. Even then if I switched on the second pump, the voltage gauge would show a severe hit and the perfect pass would lose power temporarily, and the second pump wouldn't run. On early morning surf runs before work, 2 pumps is a must to get one side filled while the other is emptying. To solve this I was planning on running a 4 or 8 gauge cable from up front (off the Blue Sea Safety Hub 150 http://bluesea.com/viewresource/1446 that is being installed for the stereo) to the smaller Blue Sea Safety Hub 100 http://bluesea.com/productline/overview/416 will be near the motor, close to where my pumps are so I don't have to make such a long run with wires from the pump. The safety hub 100 has (3) lugs. I plan on using one for each of the pumps and the third will be perfect for a shower install later in the summer to keep us surfing on into the winter. Grounds for the relay will go to a buss bar that comes off the negative of the starter.

 

Couple of other questions I had while drawing up this diagram:

1. Is it okay to leave the helm buss hooked up as is? Meaning, I don't need to switch the wiring of that to the stereo side since it will only be running lights, gauges, etc.

2. Should I consider moving my Perfect Pass wiring to the House or Stereo Side?

3. Did I overdo it on the gauge of wire since I have somewhat short runs?

 

Sorry for being so long winded. In doing all this research it seems like there are a million ways to hook this stuff up. Hopefully the attached diagram makes sense. I am totally open to any and all suggestions.

Enzo Power Wiring Diagram_v1_03272012.pdf

[Spud 7]

Holy shi* dude

[RhuntIII 555]

I was told to keep the sound separate from every thing else, so I did. I protected the amps with fuses and up sized the power wires by 2 sizes. I installed a fuse panel similar to what you showed to run my two Johnson pumps and the shower and a couple of extras for future. Since the switches amp ratting would run the pumps I opted out of the relay. I also used a 10 gauge wire for the pumps. I have two batteries with a selector switch when the engine is running the switch is on all. When the engine is off and we're chillaxin with the radio the switch is on the battery with all the electrical connections. When starting the engine the switch is turned to the isolated battery. Last when running, back to the all position.

 

2002 Avy mods (ballast & salt water)

 

some photos on the pumps and panel.

[RhuntIII 555]

Holy shi* dude

Yes, and holy shi* is right!

[truekaotik 458]

Holy shi+ bro! Yes the stereo is right on that pic in the forum with a switch. You could also just run the stereo HU ground to the common stereo battery post ground so you don't have two wires your trying to make fit in the same amp terminals...

[DavidEM 1]

Mike,

1) In this particular application keep the helm buss on the starting bank side as you will be dependent on this supply for starting and other boat operations after you may have tanked the stereo bank.

2) Keep the Perfect Pass on the boat operations side also as it more voltage sensitive than most other electronics.

 

A VSR increases your dependency on shore charging and as you pointed out you have no shore charger access. Failure to fully recharge the batteries after each outing will lead to premature battery degradation. You have the option of manually combining with the dual circuit switch and getting an alternator charge. You are going to be faced with various judgements in managing your reserves and charging system. What is healthy for batteries and what is healthy for your alternator can be in stark contrast. Given your situation I might add a Stinger volt meter and a 3-position control switch (stereo bank/off/starting bank) so that you can monitor the voltage of each bank independently and right at the battery terminals rather than from the helm.

 

David

Earmark Marine

[Mike Christie 4]

David,

 

Thanks for the response. I am by no means sold on the Add-A-Battery as a solution to my power problems. I am willing to use another solution if one exists based on my lack of ability to use a shore charger. For example, I have read a little about the Hellroaring Isolater which seems to be a lot like the Add-A-Battery, however it doesn't utilize the switch. Would this be a better solution?

[DavidEM 1]

Mike,

Absolutely stay with the model that you have as you will be dependent at times on the dual circuit switch. We often use the SurePower voltage sensing solenoid but always supplement it with the same Blue Sea 5511e switch. You'll enjoy the convenience of the Blue Sea VSR but the reality of it is that you will also need the switch for circumstantial manual control. VSRs very much change their behaviors under different conditions. Once the stereo battery(s) capacity is sufficiently discharged resulting in a considerable load and a large stereo is still in play plus the boat operations draw, the voltage sensing relay will attempt to combine based on the higher voltage sensed on the starting bank/alternator side. But even though the engine is running the VSR can bounce back open as the voltage immediately sags. So as a result you lose the ability to get any alternator charge. However, at any time you can turn off the stereo, the current demand will be reduced, the VSR will successfully stay combined and you will get a charge.

It's going to be the same with any VSR/ACR. If you have shore charging this is of little concern unless you are on a long weekend with no AC access. If you don't have shore charging I am recommending the switch and meter so you can monitor, learn the situations and know in advance when manual intervention is required.

 

David

Earmark Marine

[Mike Christie 4]

Alright, so if I am understanding you correctly you are talking about a switch to control what the Stinger volt Meter is reading? Where and how do you wire this into my current diagram? Also should I include a circuit breaker in the schematic? If so, where and how big?

 

Thanks.

[Mike Christie 4]

It just occurred to me that if I order two volt meters, (one for each bank) then there would be no need for the switch. I could just mount these to the battery box for each bank or in some other convenient location?

Edited March 28, 2012 by Mike Christie

[DavidEM 1]

Mike,

A nice digital meter is costly. A switch is cheap. So even if you are not on a budget I would go the cost-effective route.

 

David

Earmark Marine

[Mike Christie 4]

Got it. Have one on order. In regards to the circuit breaker.....

How big and where?

[DavidEM 1]

Mike,

It looks like from your schematic that you have a breaker in the most critical position which is right next to the battery bank. Each amplifier will have fusing or a recommended fuse size. Add those values together to arrive at the value for the main breaker. The pumps are not likely on while the stereo is at full steam. The source electronics will have zero impact. I see you have a 150 amp breaker. Even if the collective amplifiers add up to 180 to 200 amps it is very unlikely you could ever trip a 150 amp breaker. Breakers and fuses will withstand a higher current for a sustained duration as compared to their rating before they trip/blow. That fusing is primarily for the benefit of protecting the boat and boat occupants in case of a boating accident.

 

David

Earmark Marine

[RhuntIII 555]

Fuses and breakers protect both equipment and wire. If a wire is under sized for the current it's drawing and the fuse is to large, this could burn up a wire. Up sizing a wire will create less resistance and less of a voltage drop.

[duramat 462]

Fuses and breakers protect both equipment and wire. If a wire is under sized for the current it's drawing and the fuse is to large, this could burn up a wire. Up sizing a wire will create less resistance and less of a voltage drop.

 

Yep.

 

Beautiful drawing. All my plans and details have a rubberstamp down in the lower right. I believe you forgot that (very clean!)

[Mike Christie 4]

Thanks To be honest I think the drawing is messy! I am a Technical Designer for a living and spend my days worrying about the .001 of an inch. At night in my free time I tend to get a little sloppy.

 

Once I get this project done I plan on doing a cleaner write up/ diagram for the benefit of the Crew. The information I have found on this site has been very helpful and I would like to be able to give back.

 

(null)

[RhuntIII 555]

Don't spend to much time on the drawing. The drawing is good. Spend the time on the build! Take lots of pictures.