2002 Avy mods (ballast & salt water)

[RhuntIII 555]

 

For me, using the PVC valve on the thru hull in the bottom of the boat would make me nervous. I would be very woried that something would cause it to crack and I could not stop water coming in from the bottom of the boat. I may just being overly cautious.

 

Otherwise, install looks nice.

Yes, I see what your talking about and have given this some thought. I'm planning on having a hammer and the cone shaped wood plugs in the tool box. Scary I know.

[DrNate 426]

very clean indeed. The OCD is paying off

[RhuntIII 555]

The six inch hole!

In the walk through, starboard side gunnel at the rear of the boat I cut a 6" hole. Isa very big hole! I'm needing this access hatch for the fresh water shower. I'm going with a water hose with a hand held sprayer instead of a shower type fixture. Two reasons. One, I need a longer hose to reach the engine flush port. Two, with a water hose I can remove the sprayer and hook up to the engine flush port. Like I previously mentioned I'm converting the stock ballast 250 lbs more or less to a fresh water hold. Which can be used as a ballast tank in fresh water or a fresh water hold in salt water.

 

Another reason for this gaping hole is my son. When he first started surfing he did awesome. I'd push him into a wave and he would stand right up. After several outings he got worse, couldn't stand up, "I don't want to ride" stuff like that. Over the Christmas break we got on a skate board and I would ride a little to show him then he would ride. He sucked! But then when I mentioned just do what feels right he went right, right foot forward! Try telling a seven year old he's goofy footed. Hart broken! So then I told him a better term which I think means the same "Dark Side." He thought that was cool "Like Star Wars." He said, and was back to riding and did really well. As for me trying to ride dark side not so well. Soon we were both dropping in on a 12' grass slope.

 

Thanks Crew for the Dark Side!

 

Back to the gaping hole. This hole will also be used to retrieve the starboard side auxiliary hose. Once both valves are switched to the aux. position I can fill up a starboard side bag and place it in the walk through. This will be a enzo type bag turned upside down. That will be next winters project.

[RhuntIII 555]

A little further last night. I installed the third and final directional Y valve in the ski locker. This one was a pain in the O ARS. With the tight quarters in the locker and the same in the engine compartment I didn't get the holes straight. This is what took the most time. When installing this valve make sure the drill is straight when drilling the screw holes. Also make sure the valve handle is lined up with the screw holes. I drilled the handle hole first, next I inserted the handle through the flush cover and the hole I drilled, then I would line up the flush cover, hold the handle and with my fourth hand mark the screw holes. Last I fought with this for a couple of hours slowly widening the hole for all to line up.

 

Once I had the valve installed I ran 3/4" hose from the existing ballast pump to the valve, then from the valve to the factory tank, then from the valve to the shower pump. This style pump I've installed in a fishing cabin and works very well. The instructions say that the pump can be mounted in any direction and is best if mounted under the water level. Mine is not. The instructions also mentioned that if mounted above the water line stay with in 6' of the tank. Which I well with in. I hope this works.

 

Last I installed the through deck access cover. I wish the whole install went this smooth. I used a little marine grade silicone, marked and predrilled the screw holes inserted then fastened in place.

 

I took some bad pictures but they will get the point across.

[RhuntIII 555]

Doc,

I took my medicine like you told me too. So sleep easy knowing your the MAN or shall I say the DOC.

 

Thanks for the help.

[h20king 794]

Looks great only thing I would have done different would be to use one inch hose on the factory pump as well.When you use the screw in barb fittings you further choke down the flow of the pump.Also the use of PVC ball valves on the intake makes me nervous as well as the plastic hose barbs on the pump.PVC becomes very brittle over time..........................H

[DrNate 426]

Doc,

I took my medicine like you told me too. So sleep easy knowing your the MAN or shall I say the DOC.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

 

Hahaaaa, it's the only piece of advice that I could give you but I'm glad you took it! NOW WHEN ARE WE GONNA SURF THAT THING?!?!? I'm gettin' antsy!

[RhuntIII 555]

The Super Flush is finished. I heated up the in lets with a heat gun to conform to the rounded gunnel and connected the inlet hose to the inlet fitting. Way Point Marine installed the flush kit to the engine. You can see in the pictures that the stock ballast tank still needs to be hooked up to the inlet fitting.

[RhuntIII 555]

I ordered a fuse panel and wire, tracking tells me that it will be in on Wednesday. Check out genuinedealz.com for wiring accessories. I'm estimating a fifty dollar savings on wire alone. I also had a brace cut out of aluminum for the port storage and engine compartment. I'll show pictures with the install.

Edited February 28, 2012 by RhuntIII

[RhuntIII 555]

A Long Night.

I had a local aluminum fabricator look at the engine compartment to brace the divider between the locker and the engine. This is what we came up with. I removed the crappy black plastic mount and replaced it with one and a half inch angle. I have two, two inch angle for the cross bar mounts and a two inch square tubing for the cross bar. I drilled and taped the tubing so it can be removed when servicing the engine. I think the two inch is an overkill but the fabricator wanted it to match the aluminum brace around the engine.

[RhuntIII 555]

The night is young.

I finished the auxiliary lines and installed ball valves on the ends. I still not sure how I going to finish them off so for now I'll keep them shut! I ran a 3/4" hose from the water hose inlet to fill the stock tank with fresh water. (no photos of that) I ran both auxiliary lines on the starboard side of the boat, I thought I would be easier and less hose. Lots of zip ties. The electrical phase tape will tell me which pump for which hose. Lots of zip ties. I hooked up the fresh water rinse, I'm hoping I can remove the spray gun and be able to rinse out the engine with the superflush at the boat ramp. Lots of zip ties. If it does not work my house is only ten minutes away.

Edited March 1, 2012 by RhuntIII

[RhuntIII 555]

Good morning??????????

The electrical.

So I ran a #4 AWG to a fuse block panel and the #10 AWG to each ballast motor, #14 AWG to the shower pump motor. I left work loops at the panel and at the motors so if I have any problems I have a little extra wire in the circuit. In this process I found the stereo amp had been hooked wrong and the sub woofer no longer works. I'm planning on rewiring the amp with the proper wire and fuse size and replacing the sub woofer. For now I removed the sub and disconnected the amp. I have to return to install the switches and this project will be finished.

[RhuntIII 555]

Switches and fuses are installed. I jogged (bumped) all motors to make sure the connections were sound, all seems well. The switches that I ordered through Wake Makers came with a detailed wiring diagram that was easy to follow. This step was the easiest and there is really not to much more to explain. I also took pictures of the water hose connection. I'm not sure if I'm happy with this connection but it's the best I can do for now.

[DrNate 426]

This is a nomination for the most detailed write-up ever! Good work, now let's surf it!

[RhuntIII 555]

I put the boat in the water today. It was... Well lets just say, I'm very happy. The wake made this blowing sound.

[RhuntIII 555]

I ran the boat all weekend filling and emptying the ballast. I'm getting about 6 minutes to fill and empty. I did find a couple of small leaks and all I had to do was tighten the quick release fittings on the sack and a couple of hose clamps. The first couple of fills I could not get the overflows to pee water and the sack appeared full. The last fill we ran the pumps during good conversation, we got pee! At a total fill the sack looks to tall and the 90* quick release fittings would be smashed when the sun deck is closed. We let out a little water and all was well.

 

I'm very happy with this build and can tell you that it took a lot of back breaking time and was well worth it.

 

As of now what I would have done different. At the top of the sack there are three ports, two are being used for overflow and the other a female quick release fitting, When the bag is completely filled you loose sight of the port closest to the port side gunnel. This is the port I have the quick release fitting installed. I would like to see all ports on top when the bag is filled. I don't think it will be a problem, it's just something i would like.

 

I did bring in the Dr. and will be waiting his prognosis. Thanks for all your help DrNate and the rest crew that was involved (p.m.s and phone conversations). We could have not achieved this accomplishment with out y'alls help.

[RhuntIII 555]

Wave with only the custom sack.

[DrNate 426]

Thanks for letting me ride! Awesome wave, for sure.

[shawn 0]

You have been busy my friend. Can't wait to surf behind that boat.

[RhuntIII 555]

I've ran the boat several times now with many fills and emptys. No leaks! In fact the one thing I found that you have to be careful with is the monster wave swamping the stern and a hard to starboard lets water come over the port stern corner. Low and slow Homes. The Dr. proscription consisted of a 370lbs +\- sack on the port seats and a Fat Brick of 155lbs +\- on the center of the swim deck. I'm running 1,420lbs +\- (Avy sack), 370lbs +\- tube sack, 155lbs +\- fat brick for a total weight of 1,945lbs +\-.

 

I'm using every precaution I know to get the boat clean after a salt water run. We really wont know how well the salt water mods and elbow grease are doing, only time will tell.

 

All though my project was unlike any others it was their ideas and write ups that got me through. I would like to give a special thanks to the one that helped on the build.

Bigcatpt, The one who got this started. Still waiting on that return phone call.

PROBLEMCHILD-1, I don't remember who this is but he did more causing than helping.

Duramat, Always supportive and always letting me know how cold he is but how good he was eating.

WakeDoc, The long phone conversations of just listening.

DrNate, For the in house extra parts and boating/surfing experience. He says he doesn't have any experience, I think it's a liability issue.

KnuckleDragger and H20king, For their write ups on this type of project.

And the ones I who's names I wont mention, On how not to do something.

 

If I was to ever get anything from this site that was really worth something, it was the help and the camaraderie giving by these guys.