2002 Avy mods (ballast & salt water)

[RhuntIII 555]

I'll be starting the mods to my boat with a custom ballast system. I've Attached a drawing of what I think might work. Any and all feed back would be great.

 

My thoughts on this drawing. Two reverseible pumps switched separately, both pumps will fill the Big "o" Ballast. I'm leaning towards a divertor valve after each pump. By using this type of valve I'm thinking this would eliminate the switch closest to the pump that's in the drawing. The other direction would send water to the auxiliary lines. I'm thinking a switch at the end of each auxiliary line might be a good idea if not attached to a ballast bag.

 

I received the super flush kit in the mail today. I will incorporate this system with the stock ballast for a fresh water hold and shower. More on this mod later. I'm still waiting on the anode kit from Centurion. More on that mod later.

 

[Bigcatpt 408]

Looks good! However you really don't need to have separate intakes for each pump unless you want to. If you put one larger intake then you can T off of it. Less holes to drill. You also do not need 2 overflows/vents. And make sure you run your vents to the opposite side.

[RhuntIII 555]

Pass the point of no return.

 

Today I installed two on 1" inlets one on each side of the speed wheel and T-plug hole. This project was very time consuming and to drill two holes like this opened up a new ulcer. I will be giving up dates and more photos and I continue with these projects.

[RhuntIII 555]

I spent a good amount of time yesterday with with the boys from WakeMakers (1.5hrs mor or less). I was able to fax over the drawings I made for the ballast system and the fresh water hold factory ballast converson. They walked me through every fitting and inch of hose that I would need. Very helpful, lets give a shout out! One of the issues that was brought up were the through hole inlets being a NPS type thread. Most of the posts that I read had a 1.25" inlet to a valve then a PVC "T" and last to a hose. I opted for two 1" inlets and will be putting ball valves on the end of the inlets and the converting to the 1" hose.

 

Have the ones that installed a ballast systems recognized this issue (NPS & NPT)? I'm just looking for a heads up before I go looking for the valves. I'll be back to west marine to purchase the valves this week and any type of hose fitting that I might need.

[DrNate 426]

Wow, you have been busy! I't coming along nicely I see. Thanks for the pics, too, very cool.

[RhuntIII 555]

All parts are ordered and hopefuly on the way. I shopped around the prices looking for the best deals and was able to save a hundred bucks on the Fly High products by going through the crew store. After several phone conversations and PM's with the crewadmin I was able to get a detailed drawing of the custom sack and parts list that is being shipped. Thanks crewadmin for all your help and the savings on the Fly High products! All other parts were ordered through Wake Makers and some will be purchased at local hardware and marine stores.

[RhuntIII 555]

Today I installed the two 1" valves. I first purchased a bronze 1" valve from west marine. This is were I think the NPS and NPT threads played a factor. I was able to get the bronze valve about a quarter to three eights inch down on the inlet, hand snug only. Then I tried a PVC type valve that I purchased from Lowes, I was able to get a good three quarter inch plus down, hand snug not tight. I decided to go with the PVC valve because it was able to grab more threads than the bronze valve and I'm counting on the PVC to be less corrosive in the saltwater. I went with the heightest quality thread tape I could find, Blue Monster PTFE. I wrapped the inlet threads liberally in a clock wise direction before installing the valve hand tight. Man hand tight!

 

I guess none of this realy means SH_T untill the boat goes for the water test. Until then this holy boat will be at church.

 

I also had the superflush system installed by the Mercruiser Mech. I'll show these pictures when I drill out for the waterhose inlet.

[DrNate 426]

looks good to me

[RhuntIII 555]

Tonight I drilled two holes for water inlets, that went well. One is for the supperflush and the other to fill the stock ballast with fresh water. Then I tried to install the anode on the trim tab but the screws were to short. Next I tried to drill a hole in the rudder for the rudder anode. I got my tush kicked! I will have to return to finish with a better drill bit and longer screws. Last I got the anode on the propshaft and that went well.

Edited February 4, 2012 by RhuntIII

[RhuntIII 555]

After last nights woopin, this is what I returned to first. The rudder. With my Doctor at my 40 I drilled a hole right through. The new bit cut like budda. Installed the anode with a little locktite and move effortlessly over to the wake plate. All before the rain.

 

Just to be clear I have no clue what I'm doing. Do not try any of these actions at home. Unless with Doctor.

 

Nate, thanks for your help I hope your boy liked the gecko terrarium.

[DrNate 426]

I should be the one thanking you as I believe you helped me way more than I helped you. Yes, the gecko terrarium was and still is a huge hit. Thanks for doing that. I'm afraid that little gecko is going to die a slow and painful death, however. The kids play with him incessantly

 

I was amazed at how that new drill bit cut right through that rudder, too. Was cool to watch.

Edited February 6, 2012 by DrNate

[RhuntIII 555]

Well we got a little further tonight. Started off with removing the factory thru-hull vents, drilling two more holes and installing four 3/4" chrome vents. I'm hoping that the chrome plated plastic will do well in salty conditions. If not these fittings are around $6.00 and can be replaced.

 

Second, I installed the hose barb fitting that went well, just a tight area to work in.

 

Third, I installed the two Johnson pumps. This step took the longest, most of the time spent was trying to find an accessible location for both mounting and servicing. I also tried to keep in mind the routing of the hoses. Drilling the holes and installing screws in the area next to the walk through and under the rear seat was tough!

 

Fourth, I ran the 1" hose from each hose barb fitting to their designated pumps. I used a little Vaseline to help with connections. A couple of connections needed some heat to let them slide together. I identified each hose with electrical phase tape to identify port and starboard pumps. I will continue these markings through out the entire system.

[RhuntIII 555]

I tried to install the Bosworth SeaLect Directional Y valve, This sucked in a big big way! Trying to drill inside the walk through locker was tight. Moving back and forth from this area to the engine compartment to make sure all was lined up killed my everything. I did get it lined up, the holes drilled and when I went to install the valve, the screws weren't long enough to include the cover plate. The pictures I took shows the valve installed but I'm thinking of removing it and getting longer screws so to include the cover plate. It also seems that the hoses should be installed on the valve before the valve mounted. I spray painted the valve handles to identify port and starboard valves.

[truekaotik 458]

Thats looking nice Rhunt!! i will have to endure some of this in spring ....

[RhuntIII 555]

Okay, A long day and night. I started with removing the port side valve. I had some issues with installing it and the O.C.D. was saying to make it perfect. I had to buy longer screws to install the cover plate. I removed the hose from the valve and set the valve in place with out hoses. I found this to be a lot easier. Once the valve was mounted in place I used a heat gun to soften the ends on the hoses, this made installing the hoses very easy. Previously I mentioned installing the hoses on the valve before mounting, "DO NOT DO THAT!" Mount the valve first then install hoses.

 

It took about 3 hours to mount the port valve with all the set backs and first time installation. Thirty minutes on the second one.

 

I'm very pleased with the valves and the installation in the ski locker. The handles penetrate just far enough to get your hands on them and are out of the way.

 

Being happy with the valves in one thing and a leaky system is another.

[RhuntIII 555]

After the valves were installed I ran the supply and over fill hoses then hooked up the quick release ends, valves, and through hull vents. I filled the bag with air in the shop just to get a concept of it's size. Notice the helper hard at work! I installed the bag in the boat hooked up the hoses and filled the bag with air again. The check valves are mounted in the ski locker and can be tucked up, out of the way. I've discovered some forgotten parts and need to get them ordered and installed before the water test. I still need to tape up the hose clamps on the overflow lines.

[RhuntIII 555]

This has nothing to do with the ballast and salt water mods but it was a fix that I was very happy with. A little rubbing compound, Acetone, wax and some Jimmy Buffet made the boat reflect like a mirror.

[truekaotik 458]

Nice Ballast/Salt water install Rhut!!!

CLEAN

[duramat 462]

Rhunt, that looks fandamntastic bro! NICE!

 

I need to polish mine as well, What youve done looks great

[LakeSurfer 10]

I decided to go with the PVC valve because it was able to grab more threads than the bronze valve and I'm counting on the PVC to be less corrosive in the saltwater.

 

For me, using the PVC valve on the thru hull in the bottom of the boat would make me nervous. I would be very woried that something would cause it to crack and I could not stop water coming in from the bottom of the boat. I may just being overly cautious.

 

Otherwise, install looks nice.