My drip,drip,drip,....... is now a trickle.

[Carter13 69]

Ya you Dura/Dark siders are always stirring the pot. Pretty sure a stirring spoon is not the tool I need for this job! LMAO!!!!

 

You do a fair share of pot stirring also my friend.

[superdtf 68]

I've done this many times with large size channel locks, but that was in the olden days of direct drive; everything was way more accessible. The price on the wrench isn't bad. IMHO the wax rope packing approach is a good one: cheap, reliable, time-teste, and self serviceable. The dripless system I have now isn't dripless, and I have to pump grease into it every 30 hours.

[bobback 3]

How ironic this was a topic...as I had a steady stream coming out of the same unit a few days ago.

 

Since I'm not really that mechanically inclined boat is sitting at the dealer. They are telling me that depending if those nuts need tightening or if it needs to be re-packed, may have to lift the engine out.

 

Granted in theory an easy fix, just not that easy to get to. Luckily weather wasn't that nice around here so didn't miss out on anything; and hoping to get boat back end of this wek.

 

Keep us posted on how the fix went doing it yourself and I'll keep you posted on what the final word is on the repair.

 

This a common issue?

[h20king 794]

How ironic this was a topic...as I had a steady stream coming out of the same unit a few days ago.

 

Since I'm not really that mechanically inclined boat is sitting at the dealer. They are telling me that depending if those nuts need tightening or if it needs to be re-packed, may have to lift the engine out.

 

Granted in theory an easy fix, just not that easy to get to. Luckily weather wasn't that nice around here so didn't miss out on anything; and hoping to get boat back end of this wek.

 

Keep us posted on how the fix went doing it yourself and I'll keep you posted on what the final word is on the repair.

 

This a common issue?

The engine does not have to come out to do the job if they can not do it without removing the engine find another competent shop that can.......................H

[bobback 3]

Thanks but unfortunately it's at the best shop in my neck of the woods. Not to many boat dealer's in Montana!

 

What if it needs to be re-packed or new seals put in?

[Packrat 13]

If any dealer tells you that you have to take the engine out to deal with the shaft seal then they are not competent period... You would be well served to trailer it to another dealer that knows what they are doing even if it means putting some miles on the boat trailer. Having someone who is not familiar with an Inboard's shaft seal can really do more damage like alignment problems, shaft damage ect..

[h20king 794]

If any dealer tells you that you have to take the engine out to deal with the shaft seal then they are not competent period... You would be well served to trailer it to another dealer that knows what they are doing even if it means putting some miles on the boat trailer. Having someone who is not familiar with an Inboard's shaft seal can really do more damage like alignment problems, shaft damage ect..

Tested my new PSS shaft seal yesterday that I put in my boat without removing the engine and it worked flawless as expected it is so nice to finally have a dry bilge the system is worth every penny the upgrade installed in the boat parts and labor should not be any more than $600........................H

[bobback 3]

aok...just talked to the dealer and they are hoping to look at it today for the official verdict. Wonder what the dealer thought of me telling him what the crew had to say, but I kept it politically correct!

 

Anyway, I didn't doubt anyone here but ya, definately don't want the engine pulled! Now I need to come up with a back-up plan (if the dealer tells me they have to pull the engine) and find the closest good dealer that is familiar with shaft seals.

 

Dura...I may have to road trip to slc, you have an extra room?!

 

Any recommendations for a dealer in ID or WA?

[duramat 462]

Bob, when ya coming down!?

[WalknBos 0]

LMAO!

I'm at a loss for words man.... for once.

Best thread topic... ever.

 

Here is what you need:

 

http://www.skidim.co...umber=GFO1/4X24

 

And here is the wrench to make you life easier when your adjust the packing nut - best 9 dollars you will spend.

 

http://www.skidim.co...umber=GFO1/4X24

 

Using the Gore-tex GFO packing will make you shaft virtually drip-less when properly adjusted. With a 03 you about due to change out the packing - the Gore-TEX also handles heat and friction better IMHO. I did mine last year - had about 700 hundred hours on the engine.

 

Hope this helps

 

Phil

Edited July 6, 2011 by WalknBos

[Bigcatpt 408]

Here is what you need:

 

http://www.skidim.co...umber=GFO1/4X24

 

And here is the wrench to make you life easier when your adjust the packing nut - best 9 dollars you will spend.

 

http://www.skidim.co...umber=GFO1/4X24

 

Using the Gore-tex GFO packing will make you shaft virtually drip-less when properly adjusted. With a 03 you about due to change out the packing - the Gore-TEX also handles heat and friction better IMHO. I did mine last year - had about 700 hundred hours on the engine.

 

Hope this helps

 

Phil

 

Phil thanks for the info. I am hoping I can just tighten down the packing nut. Pretty sure that even though it is an 03 that it has never been adjusted. I know the previous owner never did it and I have not either. So hopefully there is some adjustment left in it.

 

Both of the links you posted are for the same packing material.

 

Do you have that link for the wrench? I really don't think I am going to be able to get in there with pipe wrenches.

 

Also will I need 2 wrenches? Or in other words do I need a wrench to stabilize one nut while turning the other?

 

Thanks!

[WalknBos 0]

Phil thanks for the info. I am hoping I can just tighten down the packing nut. Pretty sure that even though it is an 03 that it has never been adjusted. I know the previous owner never did it and I have not either. So hopefully there is some adjustment left in it.

 

Both of the links you posted are for the same packing material.

 

Do you have that link for the wrench? I really don't think I am going to be able to get in there with pipe wrenches.

 

Also will I need 2 wrenches? Or in other words do I need a wrench to stabilize one nut while turning the other?

 

Thanks!

 

HA - Sorry didn't realize I posted the same link twice. here is the correct one, you can find it at most ACE Hardware Stores also ( Malibu sell a crappy one for like 30 buck on the Bakes site not sure if it will fit ours since it not adjustable):

 

http://www.google.co...ved=0CHQQ8wIwBA

 

or

 

http://www.amazon.co...c/dp/B000S8P2UM

 

Here is a great link with pictures on how to do the procedures - it just happen to be the exact same one in my 2003 Avalanche with the same wrench- also I found it easy to fully remove the center sit via the hinge so could reach around the V-Drive. Also yes you will need a second wrench to hold the unit in place so you don't put stress on rubber seal:

 

http://www.pbase.com...ng/stuffing_box

 

I used threaded awl to remove the old packing if necessary - mine had about 700 hours when I changed to GFX Gore Text type from SkiDM. Some just use bend old clothes hangers. Also my avalanche used three rings which I placed every 120 degrees (3 times 120 equals 360 degrees) and cut the packing on the 45, ( which was also how it done at the factory) I've done about 4 now, for friends at our club with no issues.

 

Hope this helps - ADMIN should think about linking this packing article in the link above - IMHO

 

 

Bobback - you don't need to remove the engine to tighten or repack you shaft gland - just a lot of patience.

 

Hope this helps, if you have any question let me know.

 

Phil

 

 

 

http://www.pbase.com...ng/stuffing_box

Edited July 14, 2011 by WalknBos

[mancho 85]

I know this is last years thread (and a fantstic one with great links) and I have to do this on the 98 because we're taking on too much water.... My only question is, can I change the rope in the stuffing box while it's sitting on the water? We're in a slip w no lift.

Edited June 1, 2012 by mancho

[mancho 85]

Nope, nm, looks like I need to trailer it.... With the female flax nut removed water will flow in to the boat from between the male end of the box and the shaft!

[superdtf 68]

Nope, nm, looks like I need to trailer it.... With the female flax nut removed water will flow in to the boat from between the male end of the box and the shaft!

Yup, even if you ran the bilge and two extra pumps in order to keep from sinking, I don't know how you'd get the new rope into place with the water coming through.

[Bigcatpt 408]

I just re-read this entire post. Some funny $hit here!!!!

 

Since I started the thread.... I thought I would add a little to it.

 

i purchased 2 of these wrenches for the job and they worked awesome. Small and strong. They also have a square hole in the end of them that will accommodate a ratchet driver to use as leverage at different angles if needed to get the nuts loose.

http://www.skidim.co...p?number=WRENCH

 

The hardest part of the job is getting to the nuts. I had to remove my depth finder transducer to make room for the wrench on one side and had to remove the water intake hose from the thru hull on the other side to make room for the wrench on that side.

I crawled down in the hole enough to get my hands on the wrench on the starboard side (hooked onto the big packing nut). I positioned the wrench in place and then my buddy that was helping me then used a stick with a flat end (a piece of old broom handle) and put it on the handle of that wrench and applied downward pressure (or counterclockwise pressure if facing the back of the boat). That way I did not have to hold that wrench. You really need pressure on both nuts at the same time or else you are putting twist or torque on the rubber hose part that attaches to the hull of the boat.

 

Once the starboard side wrench on the packing nut was stabilized by my buddy holding the stick then I could concentrate on the locking nut. So I used the other wrench to get hooked onto the locking nut and applied downward pressure (clockwise if facing toward the rear of the boat). After a few times we were able to get the locking nut loose. I did use a socket driver in the square hole of the wrench to help with leverage when breaking it loose.

 

Once I got the locking nut loose I tightened up the packing nut 1/6th of a turn.... or one of the flat sides of the nut. It felt pretty tight at that point. So I tightened up the locking nut and took it to the lake to water test. Fortunately it all worked out perfect and I got a drip about every 10 seconds.

 

I am glad I did not have to repack the nut. I am not sure how I would have accomplished that in the tight space and basically working blind down there. I am sure at some point I will need to revisit this again. Probably looking at a PSS one at that point.

 

My bilge is MUCH dryer now. Instead of the bilge pump kicking on every 5 minutes it only kicks on about once a day.

[jasonrock 0]

are the drip rates based on just floating in the lake or running the boat?

[CenturionSkier 43]

Floating after warm up. Run around a little then turn off and float. 1 drip every 2 to 3 seconds if you have the old style packing gland.

 

Newer dripless should be dripless!

[superdtf 68]

I just re-read this entire post. Some funny $hit here!!!!

 

Since I started the thread.... I thought I would add a little to it.

 

i purchased 2 of these wrenches for the job and they worked awesome. Small and strong. They also have a square hole in the end of them that will accommodate a ratchet driver to use as leverage at different angles if needed to get the nuts loose.

http://www.skidim.co...p?number=WRENCH

 

The hardest part of the job is getting to the nuts. I had to remove my depth finder transducer to make room for the wrench on one side and had to remove the water intake hose from the thru hull on the other side to make room for the wrench on that side.

I crawled down in the hole enough to get my hands on the wrench on the starboard side (hooked onto the big packing nut). I positioned the wrench in place and then my buddy that was helping me then used a stick with a flat end (a piece of old broom handle) and put it on the handle of that wrench and applied downward pressure (or counterclockwise pressure if facing the back of the boat). That way I did not have to hold that wrench. You really need pressure on both nuts at the same time or else you are putting twist or torque on the rubber hose part that attaches to the hull of the boat.

 

Once the starboard side wrench on the packing nut was stabilized by my buddy holding the stick then I could concentrate on the locking nut. So I used the other wrench to get hooked onto the locking nut and applied downward pressure (clockwise if facing toward the rear of the boat). After a few times we were able to get the locking nut loose. I did use a socket driver in the square hole of the wrench to help with leverage when breaking it loose.

 

Once I got the locking nut loose I tightened up the packing nut 1/6th of a turn.... or one of the flat sides of the nut. It felt pretty tight at that point. So I tightened up the locking nut and took it to the lake to water test. Fortunately it all worked out perfect and I got a drip about every 10 seconds.

 

I am glad I did not have to repack the nut. I am not sure how I would have accomplished that in the tight space and basically working blind down there. I am sure at some point I will need to revisit this again. Probably looking at a PSS one at that point.

 

My bilge is MUCH dryer now. Instead of the bilge pump kicking on every 5 minutes it only kicks on about once a day.

Nice! Especially those multi-day trips, like Lake Powell, the bilge running every few minutes through the night is a big fat bummer. My favorite part of your post:

 

"The hardest part of the job is getting to the nuts." .... man if I had a nickel...

[DarksideR 1,679]

Sorry for beating a dead Cat here... lol. But I'm confused. How do you adjust the drip rate if you're not on the water?

Yes... I believe I am needing to do my seal now too.