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h20king

Walter V drive removal and reseal

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h20king    794

Well I thought I was in the clear.I headed down to the shop to install a PSS shaft seal system today thinking it was the last big thing to get done before the season starts and I go back to work on Monday.I opened the rear seat to gain access to the shaft coupling and noticed oil in the bilge.Upon further investigation I determined the V drive had a leak this is bad for me but good for the crew as I took some good photos of the coupling and the process of removal and the fix.

Well on to the job first things first the shaft coupling has to be removed from the v drive this requires a 9/16" wrench and a 9/16" deep socket and ratchet remove the four bolts that attach the coupling to the v drive and separate.Next remove the lead to the sensor then loosen all hose clamps and remove the hoses this is much easier if you use a hose pic and some lubricant.Now the only thing holding the v drive in is six 9/16" nuts.Before removing the V drive extract the fluid so you don't make a mess while removing the V drive from the boat.Now remove the six 9/16" nuts and slide the drive off of the input shaft being carefully not to damage the front upper seal and remove from boat.With the drive on the bench it was obvious that the v drive oil pan had a seep at the gasket.To fix remove the four 9/16" bolts and separate the pan from the drive.With everything apart clean the matting surfaces and the pan and screen filter than reassemble using a little gasket sealer.Once everything is assembled do some touch up paint on the v drive then install in the boat in the reverse order of removal.I will finish this thread tomorrow and do the thread on the PSS install so some of these pics you will see in both threads.................H

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h20king    794

start by removing the four 9/16 bolts on the shaft coupling and separate.Then remove the lead from the sensor

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h20king    794

next remove the hose clamps and hoses using some lube to help things out.Then drain all the fluid from the drive.With the drive drained remove the six nuts holding the drive in place

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h20king    794

My leak was at the pan remove the four bolts. Use a 5/8 tubing wrench to remove the hose from the pan then separate and clean the pan and sealing surfaces

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Edited by h20king

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h20king    794

with the sealing surfaces and pan clean install gasket with some gasket sealer and reassemble.Once assembled do some touch up painting and you are done. install in the boat pics will come tomorow...............H

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h20king    794

Before you install the drive back in the boat install a new intermediate gasket with some sealer just in case.Then slide the drive on the spline and into place being careful not to damage the front seal on the drive.Once in place put back on the six 9/16" nuts and lock washers then tighten in a criss cross pattern.Now connect the hoses the sensor wire and re attach the shaft coupling fill the drive with 30 wt and your done.

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h20king    794

all done and it looks better than the factory install................H

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poosie    7

H20 great write up. Its because of articles like these that make it much easier to tear into a project that someone may be a bit hesitant on.

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Rob-be-me    0

post-3689-0-38781300-1337198495_thumb.png

 

I pulled the Walter Gear box out and resealed the oil pan as out lined in this write up. Things I learned on the way:

1. Once the propshaft coupler is disconnected and before removing the gear box be sure to pull on the prop and back the coupler and shaft away from the gear box. I got an extra 8" of working room during removal and install. It also helps to avoided damaging the coupler and shaft with that heavy gear box.

2. Go ahead and replace the gear box to transmission seal while you’re there. It cost $5 and well worth it while you have it out. Mine measured 1.88" Outside Diameter .25" thickness with a 1.25" Shaft Diameter.

3. Reinstalling it is very rough. I used and engine hoist and a friend to help. Don’t try this alone!!!

 

Questions: What is the end play on the shaft coupler to gear box? I called a marina and got attitude, probably because they don’t know and would prefer my money… the Walter manual says no more then .003” all the way arround, that seems tight. I’m .001” on the port side and .003” on the starboard side at best!!! Do I now need to realign the motor by .001” to make it even? This seems a bit extreme for a mere .002” difference. Any suggestions out there?

 

http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals/Drive%20Train%20and%20Fuel%20System/V-Drive/Walter%20V-Drive%20Installation%20and%20Service%20Manual.PDF

Edited by Rob-be-me

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Rob-be-me    0

post-3689-0-38781300-1337198495_thumb.png

 

I pulled the Walter Gear box out and resealed the oil pan as out lined in this write up. Things I learned on the way:

1. Once the propshaft coupler is disconnected and before removing the gear box be sure to pull on the prop and back the coupler and shaft away from the gear box. I got an extra 8" of working room during removal and install. It also helps to avoided damaging the coupler and shaft with that heavy gear box.

2. Go ahead and replace the gear box to transmission seal while you’re there. It cost $5 and well worth it while you have it out. Mine measured 1.88" Outside Diameter .25" thickness with a 1.25" Shaft Diameter.

3. Reinstalling it is very rough. I used and engine hoist and a friend to help. Don’t try this alone!!!

 

Questions: What is the end play on the shaft coupler to gear box? I called a marina and got attitude, probably because they don’t know and would prefer my money… the Walter manual says no more then .003” all the way arround, that seems tight. I’m .001” on the port side and .003” on the starboard side at best!!! Do I now need to realign the motor by .001” to make it even? This seems a bit extreme for a mere .002” difference. Any suggestions out there?

 

http://www.dublerfam...ce%20Manual.PDF

 

I resolved these questions. I called yet another marina, cringe :blushing: This time I talked to a pleasant young man eager to help and share information, rare. He stated that they accept no more than .005” coupler gap before requiring an engine to shaft realignment. He also states there is no eng gap. Simply pull the shaft coupler to the gear mating surface by hand and measure the difference all around. If at any point there is more than .005” difference then realignment is required otherwise tighten the bolts to 30 foot pounds, done.

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kylesullens    3

Hey guys -

 

Just pulled my VDrive to install a PSS on my '99 Elite V. Got everything apart and noticed that the front oil seal (that goes around the transmission output shaft) is banged up pretty bad. The drive doesn't/hasn't leaked any oil, but I would like to replace this seal before I put it back together. Any ideas where to get a replacement seal? I've got a message into Walter Machine, but haven't heard anything.

 

vdrive.jpg

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