Subwoofer and second battery install

[LongLakeME 0]

Hi Everybody,

Been on the forum for a while... mostly just grab all your good ideas, haha, thanks.

 

I had a couple of questions...

I'm upgrading my factory Sony Xplod system to add and amp and Sub to my Cyclone C4.

 

Per some suggestions I ordered an isolator for a second battery and I'm not sure it's the right one,

there is no switch. It's from Blue Sea, not sure if anyone has used this one or if in fact it got the wrong one.

Here's the link:

 

http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/overview/387

 

The amp wiring, etc. isn't foreign to me, but adding the second battery is. Any advice would be great.

 

The other question I has was the Sub install. I have a 10 inch and was going to mount under the drivers

footwell area. Has anyone just cut into the factory panel, or should I actually build an enclosure (box) for it.

I'm obviously looking for the easy way but wasn't sure if the sound is effected that much if I just go mount

through what's there. It is open at the top of the factory panel... but would be the easiest and fastest way.

 

Thanks for the help.

[Fernslinger 0]

I just built a simple cube style box and have it sitting in the foot well...

 

 

I am not sure about that unit for the second battery. It doesnt seem like an isolator...I may be wrong. Many people run a manual Perko type switch or a Surepower 1314. I run a 1314 and have had zero problems with it.

[LongLakeME 0]

Thanks for the input... ya I agree, I'm already ordering an true isolator with a perko switch.

It's what I thought I order, then I opened the box and was like huh?

 

I'll probably do something similar as far as the box for the sub. I've noticed I have some H2O come through

the cup holder above the footwell when it rains, my boat is on a mooring. I'll have to seal that to be sure the sub is not getting

soaked. Not sure if anyone else has had that issue.

[WakeDoc 488]

Last we had the sub in a box located behind the drivers side kick pnael facing to the port side, it hit hard, sounded great and the driver (mostly me) didn'thave to take a sub poundng all day. I have seen others build a box cut a hole in the kick plate, mount the box to the kick plate and the grill of he sub if it has one to the kick plate, makes a clean looking install.

[desotodave 0]

Last we had the sub in a box located behind the drivers side kick pnael facing to the port side, it hit hard, sounded great and the driver (mostly me) didn'thave to take a sub poundng all day. I have seen others build a box cut a hole in the kick plate, mount the box to the kick plate and the grill of he sub if it has one to the kick plate, makes a clean looking install.

I did the same as Doc, and it works great, and is out of the way

[LongLakeME 0]

The issue I have with mounting behind the kick plate is space... the Cyclone is only 20 footer and I barely have room

for the magnet, ha. I'll have to suck it up and get pounded on... too bad, I like that idea of putting it behind.

Thanks.

[DavidEM 1]

Longlake,

We've often built forward-facing (towards bow) sub enclosures that mount to and play through the underdash facade...typically in Supras. This only works if the facade has enough of an open passageway over the top so that the bass radiation can vent out of the helm cavity. The enclosure is wide, shallow and with an angled bottom so that it cosmetically looks well integrated and doesn't consume any leg/foot space. The enclosure is carpeted to match with carpeted end caps to conceal all seams. You can do sealed or bass-reflex with this approach. Cavity-loading like this tends to reinforce the low bass with just a bit of loss in transients or midbass. And it has more of a non-directional impact.

 

David E.M.

[bdr07 0]

I have the elite v c4 and I located my sub on the drivers foot panel.

I built a sub box that screwed to the backside of the panel.

Installation was tricky with room available, but my 10''Clarion sub pounds pretty good with NO RATTLES.

You need to find out if you have a free air sub or not. Some subs can be used with or without ported box.

[Foiler 1]

Thanks for the input... ya I agree, I'm already ordering an true isolator with a perko switch.

It's what I thought I order, then I opened the box and was like huh?

 

I'll probably do something similar as far as the box for the sub. I've noticed I have some H2O come through

the cup holder above the footwell when it rains, my boat is on a mooring. I'll have to seal that to be sure the sub is not getting

soaked. Not sure if anyone else has had that issue.

 

Dang, don't just take one persons word for it especially when they say they are not familiar with the one that you bought. You have an isolator (voltage sensing relay) that will work fine. There are obviously several ways to skin a cat but what you have will work fine and why do you need a switch? If you want to jack with a switch all the time then you could get by without an isolator, IMO adding a switch just increases the risk of forgetting and leaving the switch in the wrong position and then having a dead battery that you don't want. A switch can aid in isolating batteries while using an external charger but other than that I just don't get it.

 

What you have (to the best of my knowledge) is a voltage sensing relay, just like the Surepower 1314. (slight differences between the two) but they are both there to accomplish the same thing. One battery is dedicated to starting only and the other battery is for everything else. A voltage sensing relay will disconnect the batteries from each other at a set voltage below what the alternator puts out so when you shut the motor off the batteries will soon disconnect so you don't run the starter battery down and you will allways be able to start the boat. Once it is started and relay reads the higher voltage from the alternator it combines the batteries while the engine is running so it will charge both batteries. Once installed correctly you should be able to forget about your batteries especially with only a moderate stereo, at least that is how it has worked for me. Not sure what the switch is used for because I have never ran one. Want to sell one of your relays??

[DavidEM 1]

Relating to an ACR or VSR there are four potential uses or positions for a switch :

1.) An emergency relay bypass in the event of a failure whether the relay or battery.

2.) Normal automatic relay operation.

3.) A disconnect to keep the few milliamps of voltage sensing from being a draw during long periods in storage.

4.) Dual bank isolation while AC shore charging which the relay normally circumvents if not managed externally.

 

None but the fourth function is mandatory and only applicable if you have a shore charger.

A shore charger should be a necessity if you're using an ACR or VSR.

Three functions can be managed by a single supplemental switch.

#4 can be done automatically with an additional relay.

 

David E.M.