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Chas    0

Can anyone tell me how I can check to see whether my impeller needs to be replaced? I have a 2002 Centurion Cyclone, with a Mercruiser 350 (315 HP) engine. My boat starting running hot and the alarm went off. From what I've read/people I've talked to, it's probably a bad impeller. I don't have experience working with boat engines, but this time of year it is almost impossible for me to get anyone willing to make a house call to fix it.

 

Any thoughts/tips appreciated. Thank you.

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bcollins    18

Hey Chas, I have the same model/year. How do you like it. My first inboard/V drive. Got it mostly becuase of the size, had garage/storage limitations but I really like it...works great for my needs.

 

Anyway, not a mechanic by any means but sounds for sure like you need to replace the implellar. Pretty standard to do that each season and alot of guys on here carry one onboard just in case. I haven't tried it yet but I've heard it's relatively easy so you could probably do it yourself. Kind of a b*tch to get to but other then that not to bad. I actually have the little bag the impellar came in at home so if you need the part number let me know and I'll dig it out.

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Chas    0

I love the boat - got it new in April 02. Great for wakeboarding, especially when you throw 6 guys in there at once, which does wonders for the wake. I need to do more reading on maintenance - I would have asked the guy who winterizes and services my boat to change the impeller routinely if I had any idea of what it was and that it was something many replace regularly. Now I'm trying hard to get a house call so I don't have to tow the boat to the marina and pull it out of the water. And boat maintenance house calls this time of year aren't easy to get.

 

My guy (who called shortly after my post) tells me that the impeller is a little tricky to get to on the Centurion Cyclone - need to disassemble the water pump too, or something like that. And you need to be sure to get any pieces of the impeller that may have broken off out of the system so it doesn't jam up the engine. All that seems beyond my non existent skills.

 

One last comment for you -- when I first got the Cyclone, the serpentine belt frayed and broke after a few months. I had it replaced, and it shortly thereafter did the same thing. Centurion then discovered that there was a manufacturing wide defect for that model which had something out of alignment causing he belt to fray. My guy learned this from Centurion and came back, made the adjustment (all for free), and I haven't had a problem since. If you do get a frayed belt, have whoever services it for you check with Centurion about the adjustment that it may need.

 

Thanks for your response.

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bcollins    18

Yeah, it's one of those things that will ruin your day. My understanding is it can get very brittle when dry for long periods of time, probably why they tell you to make sure to check for pieces. They replaced mine and it looked and felt brand new so I just kept that one as a spare. I kind of heard that it was a pain becuase you had to take things out just to get to it. Anyway, you might give it a shot but I hear you on the no skills. Again, someone on here will probably be able to give you step by step in their sleep. I'm going to give it a shot next year because of the cost for routine maintenance.

 

Thanks for the info. about the belt. I havene't had any issues but I'm definitely going to check it and keep an eye out now. How did they fix the issue, i.e. what adjustment did they make?

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steedracer    0

I've got the 350 MAG as well, but on an '04 Enzo. The boat has had two full seasons on the water (first time in water: May '06), at about 155 hours. Before we cranked her up this year, I consulted with my Centurion mechanic, and he said that it was time to change the impellar, that they give little to no warning when they go bad. Most of what I had read confirmed that. He came out to the marina, but the tight location behind the engine was a "mutha" to get to, and I think he said he had to take the water pump off as well (and cut up some knuckles pretty bad). Because of the challenging location, the labor charge was more than I expected, but certainly seemed justified. Anyway, hopefully you can get yours changed out soon. On the 350 MAG (though it may depend on which boat it is on), looks like it's a real mechanic's job.

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Chas    0

Thanks - you've confirmed what my mechanic said on the phone. I'm not going to make this my foray into the world of boat self-repairs.

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WalknBos    0

Hello

 

New To this board:

 

I own a 03 Avalanche C4, with about 550 hours on the engine. My impeller went last year and I carried a spare based on advise from other v-drive owners. Here is what I would advise to change it, this is also the recommended procedure on the Wakeworld forums if you search for it.

 

The Avalanche is much like the Cyclone and had the Merc 350 MPI. I removed the fiberglass exhaust, by loosening the hose clamps at rear of engine. I then removed the entire water pump from the engine: once removed it very simple to get the impeller out, and ensure that no bits or pieces are left in the pump. Also by removing the pump you have made installing the new impeller very easy, my merc dealer recommended a "little" engine oil to aide in install. I am not sure if it can really be done right while on the engine, it is just so tight with little room to work: then just reasemble. All told took about 2 hours not rushing, while down there good time to check the belt, and the grease fitting for the steering cable, that on my boat seems to come lose every year

 

Hope you find this helpful. If you google 350 MPI you can find some diagrams of the engine.

 

Phil

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Joe B    17

My mechanic started swearing when I said I may have him change the impeller this winterization. The 330 Scorp is the same pain in the a*s as the as the 350mag he said. I still will probably not use him and try it myself just before winter under the guidence of others.

 

Steedracer: What kind of labor charge to expect? I almost flipped out on my oil change being $150 total. First and last time done by someone else.

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EnzoSurfer    0

Just changed out the impeller in my Black Scorpion. Not really too bad. There was more space than I thought.

 

Release the tensioner for the belt.

Remove the hoses from the water pump.

Remove the fuel filter bracket and lean the the filter assembly to the side.

Remove the water pump.

Remove the plate on the pump and remove the impeller with puller or 2 flat screw drivers making sure not to gall the housing.

(hardest part) Lube the new impeller and shove it in.

Reassemble in reverse order.

 

Tips

 

1. Have a long tool grabber on hand for the spacer you are going to drop from the back of the fuel filter bracket.

2. Have some soft material to kneel on cuz that carpet is like sandpaper after an hour.

3. Get some spare hose clamps for the one that you over tighten and bust.

 

After completing this replacement I realized its probably one of those repairs that the shops can claim to the not so mechanically inclined that "its a real bear to get to" but in fact its a very simple job.

 

It should be on the "I can do this myself list"

Edited by EnzoSurfer

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smitty    0

Thanks for the tips Enzo!

 

Realistically how often do you guys think it needs to be changed out? I know they recomend every two years but is it really nessesary?

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EnzoSurfer    0

It would depend on if you ran it dry and if you sucked up anything from the lake.

 

Any change in temperature you should check it. For a 35 dollar part and peace of mind a yearly change would be good.

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mstraight    0

I have a 2003 Typhoon ( Concourse with storm 1 package) and had to make the impeller change myself this weekend. Im not certain how common this is for all Centurions, however mine is a split transom. Making the Drivers side virtually unserviceable. However, the passenger side the large locker wall is removable. Here is the life saver.... if you have an extra set of hands to help with this project.... pull the hinge pins on the engine cover. With the engine cover removed you can do alot of work from the swim deck. remove the belt and the engine water pump. If you can, replace the gaskets. If you can't replacement... be careful not to damage them during removal and use High Temp Silicon and allow to cure for 24 hours before water testing. Once you get the Engine water pump off you and your buddy c an work from top and side to remove the fresh water pump. Pull the impeller and replace with new... Yes, the impeller you receive will not look like it fits ... you have to "spin" the impeller to create the correct shape. A little white grease or engine oil helps...although can be done with out it. Add HT silicon to the fresh water pump rubber gasket to hold it in place while reinstalling... reinstall the engine water pump and connect all hoses. Be patient and let the silicon set. I would recommend doing this in dry dock or on trailer and not in the water just to prevent water and silicon mixing.

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1fasdzl    0

Great tips, guys. I'm going to give it a whack at the beginning of next season. As everyone says, it's cheap insurance to save your a$$ from having a real bad day at the lake.

 

Enzo- Were you really able to do all this without removing the fiberglass silencer thingy?

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mcdog    0

I'm all about this. Was this on a v-drive? The part about the carpet hurting your knees makes me think you have a regular inboard? I have a 2005 avalanche and the belts are in the very back. Maybe a bit harder for me to get to. My marina raped me on this two years ago and I figure it's time to change it again before it disintegrates.

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poosie    7

chas on page 9 you will find a detailed descriptioin the impeller change. its not the most fun job but im sure its a few hundred to have a shop do it. impeller costs about 35.00 my boat was 5 years old when i got it with 160 hours on it. im sure it had not been done since new and was just im time. good luck.

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mjpcarbon    0

I just ordered my impeller and gasket. Should be challenging to say the least. Real tight squeeze on the passenger side.

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smitty    0

It's not that bad, little hard on the shoulder from laying on the carpet. One little trick I used to get the bracket spacer back in place was I tied a piece on fishing line to it and dropped it into place and slid the bolt through worked perfectly. Once you try getting it back in place with your hand a few times you'll see what I mean. Here's some instructions I found that are really good...

 

 

http://www.tigeowners.com/impeller.shtml

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bobhauck    4

This is why I love my direct drive. I flip up the motor cover loosen 4 8mm bolts. The impeller change takes about 30 mins. At about 35 bucks a kit. I would change it every year its not worth the risk. I had an impeller go out on my old Monterey while I was driving. Apparently on the Monterey's there is a wiring harness on top of the exhaust manifold, which if the engine over heats, it likes to catch on fire. Hell of a day on the water.

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BigWillOKC    1

i am doing mine this week as preventative. had it go out a couple of summers ago on the water and it SUCKS. for everyone that says getting the new impeller in the housing is the hardest part, here's a tip. take a zip tie and tighten it around the impeller with all of the tines going the same direction. it will easily fit in the housing once you crank down the zip tie. put a little dish soap on it and once its half way in the pump, cut the zip tie and shove it the rest of the way in.

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