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enzo on LI    79
You make it sounds like were about the same size!

 

In comparison to Iowa :thumbsup: ..... my point exactly!

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craig3x    3

i'm new to owning a boat. (96 Elite V-drive) Dumb question maybe, but is it necessary to do the winterizing of the water if you live in an area that never freezes? I understand stabilizing the fuel and changing oils, but do i need to drain all of the engine plugs?....or add AF? Thanks!

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DarksideR    1,679

Don't quote me on this, cause I too am new to boating. It seems there is 2 reasons for "winterizing".

1. To make sure the cold weather doesn't make the water inside the engine expand and damage anything. ie:cracked engine block.

2. To lubricate and protect the inner workings of the engine and pumps and whatnot from rusting and so on.

 

If you use your boat year round... I hate you, (kidding) regular maintenance should be all you need to do.

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DarksideR    1,679

I'm about to winterize my boat by myself for the first time in the next couple weeks. Thought this thread was a good one and wanted to bring it forward. fingers crossed everyone! LOL

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I'm about to winterize my boat by myself for the first time in the next couple weeks. Thought this thread was a good one and wanted to bring it forward. fingers crossed everyone! LOL

 

Same here Dark. If I mess it up, I'm blaming Islander...

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islander033    2

 

Same here Dark. If I mess it up, I'm blaming Islander...

Haha...that would be fair if I helped you winterize your boat. Since you did it on your own....you are on your own....lol.

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truekaotik    458

got mine all winterized but forgot one blue plug on the port side i think(3 strbd, 4 port)... :wallbash: couldnt find anymore... oh well my boat stays in dry storage where they cant drop the temp past 35 degrees cause the sprinkler system in the building will freeze, so hopefully i am safe....couldnt get the damn plug out of the v-drive either so i pulled the hoses and covered one side and shop vac'd it out. lol

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Joe B    17

Do you mix your AF with water????? (pink RV)

 

I drained block on 330bs, drained V-drive (very little water but did after block), sucked up straight AF through ballast. Getting ready to fake-o-lake with AF, but was just planning on straight pink RV Antifreeze????

 

Truekaotik: I too had trouble finding my last plug but of course it was out of sight and had a bunch of water come out of it. Glad I went back and found it. (330 engine, 6 port, 2 starboard plugs). The sticky with pictures helped but I didn't see other engine pics.

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Joe B    17

I can say the v-drive was never drained by 2 dealers that used to winterize my boat. But I did and chipped off the black paint. AF ran through after drain so I guess they didn't see a need to do the v-drive (I know they drained the block since they had to replace a blue plug).

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Wiggles    2

I did my own winterizing this year again, but I have one question?? I can't remember if there is a drain plug for water or anything on the tranny you have to do other than changing the fluid?

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Wiggles    2

Anyone???

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truekaotik    458

Yes there is two drain plugs on the v drive? Is that what your referring to? Or you can pull the hoses and shop vac it out, that's what I did cause I couldn't get the bolts loose easily..

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Wiggles    2

I got those two but wondering if there is anything on the actual transmission that needs to be drained...

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DarksideR    1,679

Here's what I did. (I am no expert BTW) (FAR FROM actually)

I did almost exactly what Dura did in his video. I pulled the hose off the bottom intake thru-hull (this is the exception from Dura's video. This way it goes trough every bit of the motor/tranny, and what not that it would if it were on the lake) on the bottom of the boat. Hooked up a custom "thingamabob" that went to a 5Gal bucket of RV antifreeze with a ball valve and a T with another ball valve to my garden hose. Put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank. Ran the boat for a while on city water to get the temp at normal running temp. Changed fluids. Ran boat again for a few mins on city water. Shut city water ball valve, opened bucket ball valve. Once I see dark pink fluid coming out exhaust, I shut off motor. This happens quite fast! The 5 Gal bucket of antifreeze dissapears within seconds!

This was what my friend who's a marine mechanic did for me last year... but, my heater core ended up cracking. So this year I pulled the hoses (in and out) from the top back of the motor and sucked the (water) out with a shop vac. Then I put one of the hoses back onto the housing and sucked with shop vac again. Here's where I have some confusion. Why does the RV antifreeze not get in there?? Does the heater have to be actually running? Because clean(ish) water came out those hoses. Also, I never drain the antifreeze(thru drain plugs) like some have said they do... should I???

And just to be sure I don't "F" up my motor I also put a ceramic heater on low, pointed at the motor. And have one of those "Dry-z-air" moisture capture things in the boat too. No mold.

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islander033    2

Here's what I did. (I am no expert BTW) (FAR FROM actually)

I did almost exactly what Dura did in his video. I pulled the hose off the bottom intake thru-hull (this is the exception from Dura's video. This way it goes trough every bit of the motor/tranny, and what not that it would if it were on the lake) on the bottom of the boat. Hooked up a custom "thingamabob" that went to a 5Gal bucket of RV antifreeze with a ball valve and a T with another ball valve to my garden hose. Put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank. Ran the boat for a while on city water to get the temp at normal running temp. Changed fluids. Ran boat again for a few mins on city water. Shut city water ball valve, opened bucket ball valve. Once I see dark pink fluid coming out exhaust, I shut off motor. This happens quite fast! The 5 Gal bucket of antifreeze dissapears within seconds!

This was what my friend who's a marine mechanic did for me last year... but, my heater core ended up cracking. So this year I pulled the hoses (in and out) from the top back of the motor and sucked the (water) out with a shop vac. Then I put one of the hoses back onto the housing and sucked with shop vac again. Here's where I have some confusion. Why does the RV antifreeze not get in there?? Does the heater have to be actually running? Because clean(ish) water came out those hoses. Also, I never drain the antifreeze(thru drain plugs) like some have said they do... should I???

And just to be sure I don't "F" up my motor I also put a ceramic heater on low, pointed at the motor. And have one of those "Dry-z-air" moisture capture things in the boat too. No mold.

 

Dark, if I was you I'd pull the drain plugs and drain the block again. You might be surprized at the quality of RV AF that comes out of it. Last year I did that and some fluid from the plugs still looked pretty watery.

 

When I did mine this year, I did all that but just before I added the RV AF I drained the water out of the block first. This way I know that there was very little dilution of the RV AF in the block since 99.9% of it was removed.

 

You have less flow to the heater because the water distribution block doesn't flow the same out of every port.

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DarksideR    1,679

Thanks buddy. I think I will drain it... good call.

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DarksideR    1,679

You were totally right Islander! The liquid that came out of the drain plugs was shockingly NOT pink at all. I seen yellow and clear and a bit of pink come out of different drains. I am very glad I drained the block. I'm sure it would have been ok, considering there's also a heater constantly going in my boat while it's stored... but if the power were to go out for an extended amount of time, I would have been worried about it for sure.

Of coarse, the very first blue drain plug I unscrewed slipped through my fingers and fell under the motor. Not sure if any of you have had this experience but, this might as well be the Abyss of the ocean!

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islander033    2

I'm glad you checked it Dark! Now you won't have it on your mind all winter long and your block will be crack free in the spring.

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kwc    0

Thanks everyone for the info on this thread. it was very helpful as I had no ideal of to do the winterization, and the manual makes no easy sense. The video/pictures were especially helpful.

 

Thought I'd put a summary of what I did for my 07 Elite V (with no heater) kept outside in Arizona, where there are a few below freezing nights

in winter. Called dealer and cost was $150 + antifreeze to do a "limited" winterization (all they advised with the mild winter). It was also a 2 hr

round trip so I didn't want the hassle. The limited winterization was to basically run antifreeze.

 

a) Ballast tank:

Only have a center tank and it's been modified with sac's, thus there is only a very small amount of water left. Given there's lots of

room to freeze expand the limited water in tank, I did not put any antifreeze into the tank. (Most would remove the "strainer" water and

blow out any remaining water in the lines). I can see putting some antifreeze in there in cold climates, but not sure how much would be needed

due to dilution factor of the anifreeze).

 

B) Gas tank: Per the manual, IF THERE'S ALCOHOL in the gas, then you SHOULD DRAIN as much gas as possible and put in stabilizer.

As our gas is up to 10% ethanol, I tried draining what was left, but couldn't get my drain tube into tank, so figured less than 1/2 tank left and I could live with that. There seems to be a misperception about filling tank which if alcohol is present in your gas is inaccurrate (only holds if there is NO alcohol in your gas-just check the manual). Also, come spring start up, will be nice knowing fresh gas will be added.

 

(Next year, last day on lake I'll run as low as possible on gas before removing from lake (and putting in the stabilzer just before loading boat onto the trailer). However, bringing a 5 gallon tank of gas since the gas gauges seem pretty inaccurate per other posts.

 

c) I did not fog engine, as dealer wasn't going to be doing this for our milder winter. Need for this on the forum seems mixed, and

may be climate based?

 

d) Changing oils/filters:

I personally don't understand why I would change out the oil/filters before storing the boat vs. doing that as a spring/summer

start up. I think it makes more sense to have fresh oil put in on start up in the spring. (Although I suppose there's arguement to

change it pre-storage).

 

e) I PRE-drained the water remaining in the engine from the last trip out. There is a suprising large amount of water coming

out of some of the drains, and some had some rust coming out at 1st.

 

This is where I differed from the "Y" fake a lake hook up designs. Bottom line, I didn't want to dilute out the antifreeze

that I was going put in the engine, so I WASN'T running water 1st, immediately followed by switching "Y valve" to the antifreeze.

I put blue plugs back in after pre-draining remaining water.

 

f) I removed the water line at the V-drive. This was harder than I thought, but did get it off after removing a couple of ties on

some wires. Was worried the water line might get damaged and become big headache to replace.

 

g) I used a 5 gallon bucket from Home Depot, a 3'8" long 1 1/4" inner diameter clear tube connected to the bucket (on bottom towards outside of bucket) and on the other side to the water line off the v-drive. Found these "expandable" type white plumbing things where the 1 1/4" diameter tube of the water line and my fake a lake line connected well with a ring clamp holding the lines (used 2 of them). Used some spare foam off an old lifevest to keep any antifreeze from leaking out the bottom (had some various adapters also to make the connection to the bucket work). Having a ball valve turned out to not be necessary as gravity pulls the antifreeze down to the engine water line. Filled the bucket up with about 6 gallons of antifreeze (someone holding it on edge of sun deck).

 

h) Started up the engine, and the 1 1/4" hose sucks down the antifreeze fast. Also engine is not hot, so there's no overheating concern (as someone mentioned - also the larger 1 1/4" hose give proper volume into engine over a smaller garden hose). Stopped engine when antifreeze was used up. And then, per the manual, also then cranked, but did NOT start engine up a couple times to blow out any further fluid in block.

 

i) Went back and re-opened the blue drain plugs. All showed nice pink clear undiluted antifreeze. Kept plugs out for 5 minutes and then put them back on to keep bugs from entering while stored. I think the logic is better to drain out one's antifreeze after, especially if you did water 1st followed by immediately switching to antifreeze (The volume of fluid and potential for diluting out your antifreeze is a concern for cold climates). After seeing the rust that came out in my pre-draining of water, I would strongly advise everyone flush there engine with antifreeze to remove any water to prevent corrosion, even if one lives in a warmer climate that wouldn't require winterization per se).

 

j) Removed the 2 v-drive "water drain" plugs (with 10 mm wrench). Mine had never been removed by dealer winterizing before. There was

no water that came out. I left these out for winter with small pieces of duct tape to keep bugs out. Not sure why they weren't removed before, but the Walter's manual says to remove them in the winter, and figured better safe than sorry.

 

k) Pulled batteries into garage and charged for winter storage.

 

l) Again, no heater so didn't have to worry about that item.

 

Hope that's a helpful summary of the forum. I also had more piece of mind that things were done thoroughly

with regards to removing any diluted antifreeze, etc that could be dismissed as a concern by some mechanics.

And figuring gas to drive to dealer, saved $150.....

 

Disclaimer: always follow your manual and have your dealer winterize your boat....

 

kwc

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